Leash on the feeder - length, diameter and selection on the pond

The correct leashes for the feeder with hooks are the last link in the equipment that is in direct contact with the fish. A lot depends on the installation. If this element of the feeder tackle is done incorrectly, then you may simply not get a bite. At the same time, the feeder leash is not just a thinner outlet for the hook, as in the donk. This is a consumable item that you need to actively experiment with when fishing. Selection of working equipment is part of the feeder tactics. In this article we will look at how to knit leashes for the feeder, which ties to use depending on the fishing conditions.

Leash in feeder installation

On donkeys, we are used to the fact that the leash is placed in a rig and used until it is damaged. In the feeder, a different approach is needed. It is better for the fisherman to have with him many different elements of equipment connected in advance. Especially for fishing in an unfamiliar body of water. Frequently replacing hooks on feeder gear while fishing is normal practice. This, together with the feeding system, point casting, correct installations, is what makes the feeder so catchy. Different leashes are used, depending on the conditions of the reservoir, the type of fish and the installation used.

Asymmetrical loop

Working with leashes during fishing

The length of the leash for the feeder, the diameter, size and configuration of the hook largely depend on both the objective realities of fishing and the personal habits of the reservoir. If an angler successfully catches fish using some kind of equipment that is not recommended by top athletes, it means he is doing everything right.

You won’t find any kind of information on the Internet, and it’s often contradictory. Some recommend using ultra-thin diameters, up to 0.08 mm, while others argue that there is no need to thin the feeder. For an amateur fisherman, it is important not to blindly copy someone’s opinion from a YouTube video, but to use your head. Due to the abundance of recommendations, you may get the impression that in feeder fishing you need to master a lot of science and stock up on a carload of equipment. However, everything is simpler - we use ordinary leashes from a standard fishing line, 30-40 cm long. For roach and small whitefish - 0.12, 0.14 mm, for crucian carp - up to 0.16 mm, for bream with carp - up to 0.25 mm.

For passive biting in pressed-in reservoirs, we take 0.1 mm - with feeder gear, even with such a web it is possible to catch bream up to 2 kg in weight. Despite the recommendations coming from all sides to always use thin lines, if the fish are caught normally and there are a lot of them, it is better not to thin them. This will only add hemorrhoids to the angler. To begin with, it’s better not to bother, but to use a fishing line of 0.14-0.16 mm and a length of half a meter (plus or minus 20 cm, we already adjust this when fishing, depending on the characteristics of the bite).

Anglers who have already gained experience can even bother with leashes. This is a large layer of possibilities and equipment options. In moments of bad bite, a subtle understanding of which leash and hook to put, longer or shorter, thicker or thinner, can save your fishing. Naturally - along with the correct general feeder fishing tactics, choice of location and equipment. The general approach depends on the installation features:

Classic feeder - from 20 cm to 1.5 meters long, both thin and thick enough for catching large fish.
Flat method - short leashes. This is due to the peculiarities of installation and fishing.
Fishing in the water column with falling bait. Installation - helicopter and two units. Thin leashes, up to 2.5 meters (with a long rod), with small, light hooks, preferably made of floating fishing line.

On the one hand, the length and diameter determine the fishing conditions and the activity of the fish, on the other hand, the feeder installations used. Read more about installing a feeder rod. Let's look at what leashes need to be placed in different directions of the feeder tackle and why they are the way they are.

Classic feeder

In standard fishing with paternoster rigs, asymmetrical and symmetrical loops, running or helicopter, the optimal length of the feeder leash is 70 centimeters. Of course, this is not a rule. Some anglers like to fish everywhere with short leashes. However, some fishing practice has already developed. Longer ones actually catch better, especially on rivers with current. Cautious fish are sometimes afraid to come close to the feeder, especially on a clear bottom. During the current, the fish can stand on the feed stream below the point where the feeder is located, and a short leash simply will not reach its area of interest.

Length

The length of the feeder leash in still water needs to be shorter (in general), 30-50 cm. The hook with bait still falls vertically approximately at the landing point of the feeder - there is no current. The exception is when catching cautious bream, when you need to use the pulling method. That is, after the feeder falls, we pull it towards us at a distance of 70-100 cm in order to remove it from the feeding spot and not scare the fish. Accordingly, the length of the leash is the same 70-100 cm, so that the hook with bait ends up in the stern area after pulling. Naturally, this method does not work on a current, where the force of the water flow already pulls the hook away from the feeder. An article about feeder fishing for bream.

To catch roach, chub, ide and other fish that like to grab bait when it falls, longer leashes are needed. Sometimes even bream doesn’t take it from the bottom, preferring sinking bait. In this case, especially in currents, long tails, up to 1.5 meters, work well.

The tactical characteristic is precisely the length. The length is also selected during fishing. The bites are very weak or absent altogether - make it longer. On the contrary, if the fish bites greedily and swallows the hook deeply, we shorten it. The length is selected along with the choice of the moment of hooking, until successful fishing is on stream and occurs after each bite. You shouldn't bother with millimeters and centimeters. But when lengthening or shortening, you still need to work in constant increments, for example, 7 or 10 centimeters.

Diameter

The diameter of the fishing line for the feeder leash can be taken much thinner than when fishing with a bottom. Feeder is a more advanced tackle. The flexibility of the blank and the drag on the reel allow you to catch fairly large fish on thin lines. Read more about feeder gear. For hobbyists, the standard diameter is 0.12, 0.14 and 0.16 mm. The water is clearer and the bite is careful - we put thin ones, in muddy water for active fish - thick ones. For trophy bream, large crucian carp or carp, we use fishing lines with diameters of 0.18-0.25 mm.

Which leashes to use for the feeder will be determined by the fishing conditions and the fish the angler is targeting. In addition to experimenting with the leash, you may need to change the entire installation. The feeder is universal. You can choose a working version of feeder equipment for a variety of conditions. Many fishermen are puzzled by how to make a feeder tackle so that the leashes do not twist. But this problem is not from the field of “drive engineering”, but relates to installations. In a proper feeder installation, a twist or bend (or a fastening point, as in a helicopter rig) is specially made so that the leash does not get caught or twisted. Details about each installation can be found in the articles on our website in the “Feeder/Equipment” section.

The diameter depends on the overall structure of the tackle and the size of the fish. Soft rods with monofilament and a long reel drag can help you catch large fish with the thinnest fishing lines. If the rod has a fast action, oak, and even on a cord, we take more powerful leashes. But even here there is a way out - you can include an insert made of feedergam into a rigid equipment from the point of view of shock absorption. This will allow you to use 0.1 mm fishing line even if the base is non-stretchable braid.

Short leashes

In feeder fishing for crucian carp, tench and carp using classic rigs in still water, shorter leashes are needed. This fish loves to dig into the feeder itself and suck out food particles from it. In such fishing, on the contrary, there is no need to move the hook away from the feeding device - the bait should lie nearby. Secondly, on a long leash in still water it is difficult to see a careful bite. It will sink to the bottom in the area of the feeder, but its line will not stretch out from the hook before installation, but will lie wavy or in loops. That is, the bite will become visible only when the fish has already taken the bait and pulled the equipment into a line. This is not a problem with active biting. However, a cautious fish may throw out the hook before the angler detects a bite using the quiver tip. Therefore, in such conditions we set leashes of 20-30 centimeters. Read more about catching crucian carp with a feeder.

In general, a properly selected leash combines the following points:

The fish eats the bait, the bite is visible and there is no movement when hooking.
There are no breaks when fishing, but there is definitely no lack of bites due to the excess diameter.

In feeder fishing, you must always be prepared for the approach of large fish. This is the ultimate goal of fishing. When fishing on a river, small whitefish usually bite first, and only then does a large fish approach the fattened point. Therefore, if there is a high probability of a large fish biting, it is better not to thin in order to catch a couple of extra roaches. We are not at competitions where every gram of catch is important. It is more important for an amateur not to miss that long-awaited trophy, in anticipation of which the point is fed.

Leash storage

Storing leashes
When storing leashes while fishing, you need to pay due attention so that they are always at hand if you need to replace a broken one or when a fish swallows a hook deeply, so that you can later remove it from the fish without interference.

For quick replacement, a loop-to-loop fastening method is usually used and replacement usually takes no more than a few seconds. And in order not to bother knitting leashes on a pond, wasting precious time, they are usually knitted at home in a calm environment.

They are stored while fishing in different ways. You can store them on a reel made of polystyrene foam or plywood, but they don’t always hold up well this way, and they curl into rings.

The best way is to take a duralumin or plastic tube approximately equal to the size of the leash. A rubber ring is put on one end of the tube, which should fit tightly around the tube. The hooks are hooked onto the edge of the other end of the tube, and the other end of the leash is placed under the elastic band. In this case, the leads are always straight, and the tips of the hooks are hidden inside the tube and do not catch on anything.

Flat

The length of the leash for the feeder in flat and method rigs is no more than 15 cm. Naturally, such a short length will not absorb properly. Therefore, thick, strong fishing lines or leader materials are used (for carp). The thickness of the feeder leash on flat fishing line is 0.25-0.3 mm. The design is the same - there is a loop on one side and a hook on the other. The leash is attached to the main line through a noose swivel. Some models of flat feeders are equipped with a special connector for a feeder leash. More details – equipment for flat feeder.

When catching predatory fish

The main types of fishing when catching a predator:

spinning;
girder;
circle.

The purpose of a leash when catching predatory fish

The main function of a leash when “hunting” a hunter is to protect the main line from the sharp teeth of a predator .

Difficulty of choice

It seems to a beginning spinning fisher that choosing a leash is very simple. At first glance, any leash with a steel shine, indicating its strength, with an average length of 15-25 cm is suitable. In fact, in addition to the rule of camouflage, you need to take into account many more factors, just listing which can cause a headache: the type of spoon, the type and the intended the size of the fish, the fishing method, the nature of the fishing, the nature of the reservoir, the speed of the current, the casting distance...

Materials used

fluorocarbon;
Kevlar;
steel;
titanium;
tungsten;
special leash material.

Fluorocarbon leaders

Hardly noticeable in water, poor residual memory, lightweight, resistant to abrasion, but, unfortunately, the breaking force is relatively low, in addition, they are easily cut off by the large teeth of a pike. them for catching predators with small teeth : perch, pike perch, chub, asp. And yet, if the pike is passive and cautious on the day of fishing, a noticeable leash worries it, you can try a fluorocarbon leash with a diameter of 0.4-0.5 mm and a bait with a single hook. Then who will be lucky - the fisherman or the pike.

Even a large pike does not always manage to reach the leash with its teeth, and a passive pike most often does not swallow, but rather grabs the victim. But even if the pike manages to bite through the leash, it will be easier for it to get rid of one hook, and it will still remain a potential prey for the fisherman. The tee will definitely kill the pike.

Kevlar leashes

More noticeable in water than fluorocarbon ones, but more durable, resistant to mechanical stress , soft and elastic. These qualities contribute to the full play of the wobbler, which is undoubtedly a big plus. Suitable for fishing with small and light spoons; even small twitching wobblers show good play.

Kevlar leashes are so elastic that they can be tied to the main line with a knot without using swivels and winding rings. They have a very low residual memory, which contributes to their longevity.

Unfortunately, asking a pike that has eaten fluorocarbon to come back and try to bite Kevlar will not work. There have been cases where a large five-kilogram pike was pulled out on a fluorocarbine leash, and a 3-kg pike was able to bite through the Kevlar.

Steel leashes

“Stalks” are the most common and reliable type of leashes . The breaking force of a steel rod with a diameter of 0.3 mm is higher than the weight of the largest pike caught in Russia - 32 kg, but such leashes are noticeable in the water, and this limits their scope of application. A steel leash is effective when catching active pike in opaque water, in overgrown reservoirs, and in fast-flowing rivers.

You can make steel yourself from guitar strings or steel wire.

The manufacturing technology is simple : a small loop is made at one end of the guitar string, the loop is turned with pliers, creating 4-6 tight twists. You can make several turns with pliers, then insert a nail into the loop and, rotating it, wind the required number of turns. The resulting small loop is intended for attaching fishing line.

If you want to use a swivel, it must be placed on the wire before twisting. At the other end, make a larger loop, creating 6-10 loose twists. This loop should easily unravel and weave back. This loop is for attaching a spinner. The lure lock can be put on after twisting. Many people do not use swivels, believing that a flexible leash will ensure a good game for the lure.

Steel is quite inexpensive and is sold in a fairly good range of sizes: with a diameter from 0.12 mm to 0.3 mm, a length from 5 cm to 40 cm. Whether it is worth making a steel leash with your own hands is up to the fisherman to decide.

Titanium leashes

They are noticeable in water, but have some advantages that steel does not have. Titanium has a very low residual memory , so it always remains smooth and elastic, even after passing through dense thickets of aquatic plants. A titanium leash can serve for a very long time, until a dead hook occurs on a snag. It would be a pity to lose it - titanium is not cheap.

Tungsten leaders

They are a dense twist of several tungsten threads. Visible in the water, rigid leashes nevertheless withstand a large tensile load. Used with heavy spoons and thick fishing line when catching large fish. The main disadvantage is a good residual memory, so when guiding with obstacles, the leash turns into a pig's tail and its further use is impossible.

Leashes made of leash material (PM)

Made by hand from pre-prepared materials. To independently make a leash of the required length, it is enough to have small pliers or round nose pliers, 2 crimping tubes, the PM itself of the required length, and... that’s it.

The leader material is threaded into the tube prepared in advance, a loop is made, the other end of the PM is threaded back into the tube until the tip of the fishing line comes out on the opposite side. Next, you need to crimp the tube with pliers without much force five to six times. To be safe, some fishermen advise making an extra turn with the free end of the PM around the tube.

If you do not follow the principles of minimalism, you can optionally add a swivel and a lock for the spinner, just remember to put the swivel on the PM before making the loop. The lure lock can be placed at the very end of the leash making process. The leading material is a set of thin steel veins, tightly twisted together and covered with a protective film. The most commonly used leader material is 7x7 type - seven strands each of seven cores.

A PM leash is light and resilient, durable, elastic, and flexible. The lack of rigidity can be attributed to the disadvantage of the PM leash - sometimes overlaps occur.

The length of the leash made of any material should be such that the predator’s teeth do not reach the main fishing line. If only we knew in advance what kind of fish would be caught on the lure, it would be very good. It is clear that a small perch or pike perch will not bite on a large spoon, but a pike can grab a spoon twice its size, and a small spoon can be grabbed by a large predator. To begin with, you can follow the rule: the length of the leash should be at least twice the length of the wobbler .

Special attention to the leash when fishing on the outlet

This is a method in which you can cast a lightweight silicone bait over a long distance from the shore and lead it with a special wire near the very bottom. In addition to twisters, vibrating tails, silicone worms, and sometimes light twitching wobblers are used. Fishing on a branch line: a 15-30 g sinker is hung at the end of the main line. At a distance of 20-40 cm from the sinker, a branch line of 80 - 120 cm with bait is attached.

The branch line is tied to the main line in two ways.

Fixed mount.
Swivel. The swivel with the branch line is tied with a knot to the main line.
Triple swivel. Fix three swivels on the fishing line with knots in one place, or use a tightly tied triple swivel.
Sliding mount.
The retractable leash is tied to a swivel on the main line. The swivel is not fixed and moves freely along the main line. The movement of the swivel is limited by stoppers so that the bait either rises up or falls to the bottom during retrieving.

Correct wiring

The best performance of a silicone bait is obtained when fishing with frequent, short stops and twitching of the rod tip during movement.

Material

When fishing on a branch line, you will have to use a leash about one meter long. You won’t find such long leashes on sale; you’ll have to make it yourself. The principle is the same as when making a leash from leash material: pliers; crimp tubes; lock; swivel, winding rings. This is generally a generally accepted method of making leashes with your own hands, except for steel.

The driving material for a meter-long outlet is selected from a light, elastic, not too soft material: fluorocarbon, Kevlar, PM. When there is a high probability of a sinker catching on a snag, the leader material is also used for the sinker.

When ultralight fishing

Ultralight lovers have different opinions regarding the use of a leash and are divided into three camps:

Do not use a leash at all : using light, up to 5 g spinners does not involve catching toothy pikes. It is easier not to pay attention to rare cases of pike attacks that lead to the cutting of the fishing line than to deal with unnecessary equipment. The leash interferes with the play of a light spinner.
Use a fluorocarbon leader , never a steel one. The steel is very noticeable and too hard, which interferes with the play of the spinner.
Use only steel made by yourself. No one is safe from a pike attack. A small lure can catch a large pike.

Fishermen from the first camp can be advised to fish only with microjigs. Even ultra-light spoons equipped with small tees, if caught in a pike’s mouth, will most likely lead to the death of the pike.

Fishermen from the second camp can be answered as follows: using thin fluorocarbon as camouflage is a good option, but it makes no sense as insurance. Fluorocarbon 0.4-0.5 mm can save you from pike teeth, but this line thickness is not recommended for ultralight fishing. So the recommendation regarding the use of microjig remains valid.

A thin steel made independently from the first string of an acoustic guitar with a diameter of 0.21 mm is the best option. A blind twist at one end for attaching a fishing line, an unraveling twist of five to six turns at the other end for attaching spinners - recommended by most experienced fishermen. The use of size 0 swivels is justified, but they are not easy to obtain. Locks of the required size are also rare.

Instead of a lock, experienced fishermen advise using a round-shaped fly fishing fastener from Mustad or a teardrop-shaped fly fastener removed from the suspension of a winter lure.

The length of the steel leash for ultralight fishing is selected at the rate of 1-1.5 times the length of the bait.

When trolling

Trolling leashes must have high tensile strength (but according to the rules, still less than the main line) and resistance to mechanical stress. Catching an obstacle while the boat is moving creates a powerful impulse, depending on the speed of movement. A deep-sea spoon can cling to bottom unevenness and be subject to mechanical impact from stones and shell rock.

Fluorocarbon, Kevlar - not recommended due to relatively low strength.

Tungsten is also not recommended due to its high residual memory. The movement of the boat can encounter many unexpected obstacles, after passing through which the tungsten leash will turn into a twisted pig tail.

Steel, titanium, leader material - the optimal material for leaders for trolling fishing.

When fishing with microjig

The microjig can have a head soldered to the hook, or a dismountable one, when the weight is attached at a distance from the hook. In the first case, the leash is tied to the head, in the second - from the head to the hook. Microjig is an ultralight fishing method. In the section “For ultralight fishing,” the optimal option for using leashes when fishing with ultralight spoons, including microjig, was recommended.

Fishing with falling bait

Mounting a helicopter and two units is most suitable for such fishing, since the design does not have a thick bend or twist. And without them, the leash sinks to the bottom more slowly. Fluorocarbon is not suitable for this kind of fishing, as it is heavy and sinks quickly. The angler’s goal is to achieve the longest time for the bait to sink to the bottom. To do this, you need a long and thin leash - up to 2.5 meters, diameter - 0.12-0.1 mm (for trout, large ide and chub - 0.16-0.3 mm). It is realistic to achieve an immersion time of about a minute. During this time, the fish scurrying above the bottom manages to find the bait. This method is sometimes unrivaled when fishing for roach, ide, chub, trout and spring bream. Read more about fishing with a feeder in thick water in the article on installing a helicopter for a feeder.

The principle of attaching a leash in a helicopter installation

Feeder leashes

Most anglers knit leashes for the feeder with their own hands. Stores also sell ready-made bundles - for example, leashes for the Owner feeder. But this is not economical, rather for athletes. Nothing prevents an amateur from preparing various diameters and lengths in advance. At first, you don’t have to do this at all, but knit right away on the pond. It's a matter of convenience. It is more important to pay attention to the quality of the fishing line and hooks. Lead line and hooks in the feeder are something you cannot skimp on.

fishing line

For leashes on the feeder, the fishing line chosen is of high quality and strong. Here it is better to trust well-known manufacturers. Firstly, the diameters correspond to the declared ones, and the breaking load is normal. Both a special leader line for the feeder (indicated on the box) and a regular good monofilament will do. We will not give ratings of manufacturers here - there are hundreds of them. And good brands are already well known - it’s worth reading fishing forums. The leader line for the feeder is a soft monofilament without memory, with appropriate breaking loads and diameter. For short carp leashes, a stiff fishing line is better - when it falls to the bottom, it will slightly move the hook away from the feeder.

Which fishing line to choose and use for feeder leashes from the point of view of a specific brand is a personal matter for each angler. Each fisherman has his own options, which he considers the best. Sometimes you have to try several.

In the flat method, you can use both monofilament and lead feeder material, carp. Sometimes regular braid is used. However, a braided leash for a feeder easily gets tangled - if you use a cord, then use a special carp leash material.

Fluorocarbon feeder leads are needed if fishing is on shells or sharp stones - other materials will simply be cut off. And fluorocarbon, due to its rigidity and abrasion resistance, adequately withstands such tests. On a shell, fluor frays when damaged, but does not break immediately, like monofilament. This outlet simply changes in case of damage. And braid and regular monofilament are cut immediately in such conditions - even without a fish on the hook. There is no need to be fancy with the colors of the fishing line - regular transparent is best.

Fastening to installation

In classic feeder installations, the lead to the leash ends with a loop. In flat – with a swivel. Therefore, the most appropriate method of fastening is a loop-to-loop noose. Therefore, all feeder leads are made with a loop at the end. This is a universal option - you can attach almost anything to anything with a loop on the noose. Plus this method is simple and fast. The leash for the feeder is knitted in a minute. At one end we form a loop with a regular figure eight or a surgical (double or triple) knot, and at the other we tie a hook. The length of the feeder leash is selected based on fishing tactics.

The leash on the feeder tackle can also be attached using special quick releases or connectors. It's fast and convenient. However, some feeders with experience argue that you should not add additional elements to the design, you should strive to make everything simpler and more reliable. In this sense, fastening with a noose in a loop is beyond competition.

Eight

You can tie the feeder leashes in advance for a specific fishing purpose, or you can make a large set altogether - this is for everyone, depending on who you like. The presence of a large number of pre-prepared equipment facilitates the tactical work of selecting the optimal option on the reservoir. You can quickly try many options, and you don’t need to knit anything. This is especially true for anglers with thick fingers and blurred vision. It’s easier to prepare everything at home in advance than to swear and tie small hooks on a thin line in the wind and in poor visibility.

Via quick release

Connector

How to attach a leash to a spinning rod

Fasteners and carabiners make it convenient and quick to connect the leash to the cord, and this method is justified when the fish is active and does not pay attention to the roughness and bulkiness of the equipment. But in most cases, fishing is carried out with a passive predator, where every nuance of installation can radically affect the success of the bite. In this case, the elements have to be connected using direct knitting, which makes thin and sensitive installations. We will continue our conversation about the three most popular connection types.

How to tie a leash to spinning braid

One of the quick and easy-to-learn ways to tie fishing leashes to the main cord of the tackle is the figure eight knot. When fishing for small-sized fish, this connection will provide the necessary reliability for heterogeneous materials that differ slightly in thickness, which is quite suitable for connecting the main lines with leashes. Even a one-time mastery of the knitting technique is firmly deferred by skill due to the simple technology. The usefulness of the knot is that it can be untied at any time without much effort or serious deformation of the material.

Loop-to-loop installation

Loop-to-loop installation is no less common than a figure-eight connection. This type of knitting has greater strength, maintaining a high percentage of the initial breaking loads of the cords being tied. The technique is simple and can also be applied to dissimilar materials with different thickness diameters. To knit a leash on a spinning rod, you need to form loops at the ends of the elements being connected and thread it through each other and tighten it with the leash until it is completely compressed, not forgetting to first moisten the knot being tightened.

Fidergam

Feeder rubber allows the use of thin leashes even on heavy river-class gear equipped with braid. The cord does not absorb shock, and therefore, when fishing, you can lose large fish. Of course, you can put a thicker line. What to do if it doesn’t suit fat people? In such cases, the feeders help out. A spacer made of this material is inserted between the leash and the feeder mounting. Equipment options depend on the installation - there are several of them. More details - insert from feedergam.

Hooks

An important point in feeder equipment is the quality of the hooks. Fishing sometimes occurs at long distances, 80 meters or more. Therefore, it is important that the hook cuts the fish at the slightest stretch, immediately. Typically, a classic feeder uses small hooks No. 16-10 of the international classification. Smaller or larger ones are already special moments for rare cases - purposeful catching of bleak or vice versa, catfish or trophy carp. The size of the hook is not selected according to the fish, as some people mistakenly believe, but according to the size of the bait.

For bloodworms and maggots - smaller, for worms and corn - larger. Regular hook shapes with straight hooks will work. The hook size is also selected depending on the activity of the fish. With active biting - larger baits and, accordingly, hooks, and vice versa. For the flat method, for ide, chub and carp, large crucian carp, you need round hooks with a short shank made of thick wire. For roach, use slowly sinking bait - small and thin. Read more about feeder hooks.

Preparation and storage

The process of knitting leashes for a feeder is not complicated - a figure eight loop and a hook at the end. It is more important to choose the correct fishing line diameter and length. This can be done manually, or using loopers or knotters. If you need to prepare a large quantity, it is convenient to use a special crochet crocheting machine.

It is convenient to store tied feeder leashes in special leash holders. You can use store-bought options. However, it is easier and cheaper to make a leash with your own hands in the form of a cylinder of foam (polyurethane). The hooks are stuck directly into the foam, the fishing line is wrapped around, and the loops are secured with stationery needles. Read more about leashes.

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Making leashes

Making leashes
There is an opinion among fishermen that leashes need to be tied annually. There are people who do this, for example, when they go to a resort with their family, because lying on the beach gets boring already on the second day. But not everyone has the opportunity to devote a considerable number of days only to knitting leashes. Experience shows that if the leash is tied well, has not been used for fishing and has not been stored in dampness or sunlight, then it practically does not lose its strength, which means it does not require tying. As necessary, it is worth preparing leashes to replace used ones or knitting new ones for other fishing conditions. This saves a lot of time, and the range gradually becomes so extensive that you can choose any, sometimes even unimaginable, combination of fishing line and hook.

To make quality leashes, you should learn how to knit a couple of knots to tie a loop and tie a hook. To ensure that the length of the leashes is the same, before tying the loop, the length of the leash is measured using a ruler or pre-made marks. The knot with which the loop is tied must be moistened before tightening so as not to burn the fishing line. Long winter evenings are just the time when you can provide yourself with a supply of leashes for the upcoming season of float or feeder fishing.

When making leashes, you must follow the following rules:

In terms of its strength, the leash must certainly be weaker than the line to which it is tied.
To catch predatory fish, the leash must be made of such material that the predator cannot bite it and so that the leash does not break due to a sharp and sharp bend.