Non-hooking hooks for pike: top 10 best non-hooking hooks, advantages and disadvantages, fishing technique and tactics

Pike is a coveted trophy for anglers. The predator feels comfortable in the thickets and among the stones, where it waits for its prey. This creates additional difficulties for fishermen, because baits always get tangled, snagged and lost in the water. Special non-hooking spinners will help you avoid problems. Be sure to familiarize yourself with the design features of the bait, fishing techniques and the requirements for the fishing rod.

The non-hooking spinner performs well both in thickets and in shallow water bodies. Where it is shallow there are a lot of small fish, which means pike appear to hunt. Spinner baits of this type are also used in wetlands and toad grasses. With a non-hooking rod, a fisherman will be able to catch pike in any thicket.

The peculiarity of the non-hooking pike harness is its design, which allows you to pass through vegetation and other obstacles without getting caught. The shape of the tackle is a small fish or frog, but with minimal convex shapes.

These baits do not have a three-hook system, because they get caught easily. Here, in most cases, single hooks are used, in some models there are double ones. The protective element of the tackle is small tendrils made of guitar string or other similar materials. Springing the tendrils allows the tackle to push off a little from the obstacle if it is hard and stable, or to move it away if it is soft.

There are three main types

unhooked:

Oscillators.
The hook is fixed in the tail of the bait. Equipped with a wire anti-snatch system. Excellent for catching pike at depths of up to several meters.
Turntables.
The spoon is also protected by string antennae. A special feature of this type is the ability to install different hooks and replace them.
Superficial.
Specialized bait for wetlands. Made from silicone or metal, the design has a sinker.

How to choose a non-hooking line for pike

Almost every fishing tackle manufacturer has non-hooking gear in its arsenal. Different colors, sizes, shapes - all this only complicates the choice.

You can choose a non-hooking hook by selecting it according to the criteria that will interest the pike:

Length.
If you want to catch a large pike, then the length of the unhooked hook should be 7 cm or more. Otherwise, the tackle will lure only small specimens of pike, pike perch and perch.
Colors.
Not a critical parameter, but it also matters. Observations show that pike are more active on silver-colored baits. This color imitates the small fish that pike hunt.
One or two hooks.
It's better to have both options. It all depends on the body of water on which the non-hook is used. When the thickets are small, a model with two hooks is used, and when the thickets are dense, a model with one hook is used. It’s simple, the fewer hooks, the easier the tackle gets through obstacles, but the more often the fish breaks off.

Rods for fishing without hooks

To choose rods for fishing

non-hooking, you should pay attention to the following criteria:

Rod strength.
Pike is a powerful predator, and thickets and other obstacles only increase the load. Be sure to use high-strength models.
Design.
Rods with a fast action and light cast are best suited.
Length.
For fishing from the shore of a reservoir, models from 3 m in length are better suited, and for fishing from a boat from 2 to 2.5 m.
Reel strength.
Just like the rod, the reel must be durable.
Coil characteristics.
Large inertia-free models are suitable. Gear ratio – 5.1.

Special requirements are put forward for the fishing line. Typically, either single-strand monofilament or braided cord is used. The line is durable, but to catch large pike you need to use large diameter options. Braided line can handle high loads and quickly transfers the bite impulse to the rod, but its problem is rapid wear when in contact with stones, grass and other similar obstacles.

The effectiveness of non-hook tackle also depends on the steel leader. Without it, the predator will quickly tear off the bait. The best option is a thin leash; it will perform all its functions without distracting the pike.

Techniques and tactics for catching pikes without hooking

A non-hooking bait is an effective bait for catching pike in hard-to-reach places in thickets. But the more difficult the fishing conditions, the more fish there can be in such an area. There are several popular techniques that are used depending on the conditions.

Uniform wiring

The most popular technique is when the spoon imitates the traditional behavior of the fry among the thickets.

You can play around with speed, and here are some tips:

during the period of activity, the predator actively reacts to medium and high speed;
in areas of large thickets, the bait must be moved quickly so that it can easily overcome obstacles;
at depths of several meters, you should try to move the bait at medium speed at a distance of about 50 cm from the bottom.

Stepped wiring

Another interesting tactic, but different from the step using a jig. A step with no hooks is a uniform wave-like rise and fall. When the bait touches the bottom, it is better to lift it either immediately or within a few seconds, without delaying the tackle. A passive pike that has not reacted to the regular movement may pay attention to the bait touching the bottom and subsequent rapid rise.

Evil wiring and jerking

If the pike does not react to the step, you can use more aggressive tactics. Driving the spinner in waves with jerks is a tactic reminiscent of twitching wobblers, but a little less aggressive.

The tactic of evil tracking is especially effective in the summer near the reeds, when the predator does not feed, but is always in a hurry to drive away aggressive competitors that it does not understand. In hot weather, this tactic is definitely worth checking out.

Checking points using the plumb method

We must remember that pike sits in secluded and hard-to-reach places. Depressions, coastal gullies, trees in the water, reeds and thickets. To check whether a predator is sitting there, they use the method of vertical falling and other activities in these windows.

How to make a non-hook

Despite the need of fishermen for non-snagging lures, it is not always possible to find something suitable and truly sensible in stores. Therefore, many experienced spinning anglers do not waste time searching for the right bait, but make them themselves. Moreover, the crafts of some craftsmen are completely superior to factory products in appearance, performance characteristics and catchability.

Note! All the best non-snagging spoons are made at home by recreational anglers.

Spoons for pike perch in summer

There are two main types of non-tackling spinners:

with wire hook protection;
with hook protection using silicone twisters or tails.

The first type of non-hooking baits are spinners whose hooks are protected by wire “whiskers”. During retrieval and contact with obstacles, they protect the bait from getting caught. When bitten, the stings are released and catch the fish.

Lures with wire protection come with rigidly soldered hooks and with freely suspended ones. The former are more in demand in shallow water among algae. The latter are effective and are used among snags and on rocky bottoms.

The second type of non-hooking lures is protected from snagging due to the fact that the hook tip is recessed into a silicone twister, worm, slug or tail. As a rule, such baits are equipped with offset or single baits; doubles and tees are used less frequently.

In this material we will not talk about how to make a vibrator petal directly, since this is a labor-intensive task and not everyone can do it. Let's say that we already have a blank or we are planning to convert a factory-made bait into a bait with open hooks.

With wire protection

To make such a spoon with your own hands, we will need a store-bought spoon, a single hook, two rivets or a screw with M2 nuts, and a piece of steel wire with a thickness of 0.5 to 0.8 mm. We will use a drill, a metal drill with a diameter of 3 mm, pliers, wire cutters, a hammer, a file and a needle file, and a soldering iron.

Any angler can make a spoon with wire protection

The spinner manufacturing process itself is as follows:

We remove everything unnecessary from the purchased bait - the hook, the winding rings, the swivel.
We mark two holes in the body of the spinner. The first is necessary for attaching the wire “whiskers”, the second is for fixing the hook.
We drill holes.
We insert a single hook into the hole where the hook was previously attached through the winding ring so that its tip is flush with the edge of the spoon. If the lower hole does not allow inserting a hook, then it can be drilled out or the body of the bait should be bent.
We bend a piece of wire in half, and at the bend we make a round loop for a rivet.
Now all that remains is to secure the hook and wire by riveting the rivet or tightening the nuts onto the screws. In the second case, the excess threaded part is ground and soldered for reliability.
We bite off the excess wire and bend it so that it protects the point of the hooks.
All that remains is to paint the unhooked part. To do this, we will use black, white, red, yellow nail polish and imagination.

If there is a need to balance the non-hook, then in the place where the “whiskers” are attached, we additionally install a lead washer or a drop of solder. This will shift the center of gravity to the middle of the bait, making its game more sweeping and attractive to the predator.

Advantages and disadvantages of non-hooking

For spinning without hooks

Photo by the author
Every spinning angler has had to deal with the problem of snags and broken tackle. Many excellent catchable baits, often quite expensive, have been lost. This is due to the fact that the predator often hides in the very “supports” and “chapyzhniks”, where you can see and hear the blows of large tails.

For such cases, you should always have a variety of non-snagging baits in stock, some of which work almost one hundred percent snag-free, except that in thickets of aquatic vegetation they attach blades of grass to themselves. Usually, the unhooked ones bounce off the driftwood, jump over the sheets of egg capsules, plopping into the windows in the middle of this burdock and often causing the grip of a predator here, not as careful as in clear water.

There are a variety of types of protection for bait hooks from snags. First of all, this is the protection of oscillating spinners with spring wire antennae. Some baits are protected by thick fishing line, while others have the hook tip hidden in the bait itself, in its silicone body. There are other ways to protect your hook. For example, spinner baits and buzz baits have an open hook, but in front of it there is a metal bow on which a rotating element is attached - a petal or something like a propeller. The bow performs two roles: it closes the hook and at the same time serves as a mount for the spinner itself. This is a very catchy and cunning bait, despite its awkward, at first glance, appearance. Probably the most reliable way is to hide the hook in the body of the bait. Usually, an offset hook is used for this, inserting its tip into a silicone bait: twister, vibrotail, worm and other silicone products. Hooks are almost eliminated with this method, but in order for the fish to be reliably caught on the hook, good quality silicone bait is required, that is, the rubber must be soft.

The most common are oscillating lures like the Minnow Spoon. Non-hooking spinners, as already mentioned, have hook protection in the form of elastic wire springs. Among such baits, Finnish spoons are known for their quality of manufacture and effectiveness. These baits have long gained popularity among fishermen around the world. Foam rubber fish are also considered very successful non-snagging baits. Here the principle of hook protection is very simple. The double's stings are tightly pressed to the body of the foam rubber. As already mentioned, silicone baits with an offset hook hidden in the body of a slug, vibrotail or twister are very well protected from snags, but when using hard baits, fish fall off the hook quite often.

Good branded oscillating non-hooking baits have their own little secrets that contribute to the stable performance of the bait. In particular, a weight, which is located in the head of this class of spinners, serves this purpose. A striking example of a spinner of this design is the Finnish plastic minnow Spoon. Apparently, it was from this spoon that the principle by which many similar baits are now made, both homemade and factory-made, was taken. The forward-shifted center of gravity of the bait gives a unique game, attractive to any predator. In addition, this design ensures stable operation of the bait in a variety of conditions. The oscillating unhooked ones have a weak point. If the protection springs are too tight, then often the pike simply cannot close its jaws, and the hook turns out to be empty.

Sometimes, to give the bait a non-standard game, somewhat slower and roller, and also as protection, silicone worms or twisters are attached to the hook of oscillating spoons. In addition, they use another method when connecting the hook and antenna of a non-snacking Minnow Spoon spoon with a miniature twister creates a new bait with a game that is completely different from the game of a regular oscillating spoon.

Silicone slugs and narrow vibrating tails of the long john type work no less effectively as non-snagging hooks. Mounted on an offset hook, these baits protect well from snags and are securely held on the hook due to the shelf on the hook, which secures the bait. There are also silicone worms that accurately imitate real worms. These baits are pierced with a hook, and then the point of the hook is buried in the body of the bait. Being an excellent hook-free bait, these artificial worms are often the most successful bait, especially when fishing for pike perch. With the method of dragging along the bottom during the autumn step-by-step retrieve, the grips of this predator often follow during a pause or at the beginning of the movement of the worm along the bottom.

When examining in detail the game of foam rubber fish, which are also good non-hooking fish, one can note their nimble and fast game, reminiscent of the jumping of bait on the bottom, when the foam rubber stands almost vertically, resting its “head” on the bottom. When equipping foam rubber fish with heavier flat weights of the “lentil” type, these baits also acquire additional action. When it falls to the bottom, the sinker first rises vertically on its edge, and then falls to its side. At the same time, the foam fish makes an additional circular, brisk movement. Often at this moment the grip of a predator, most often a pike perch, follows. In autumn, baits are equipped with heavy weights and are indispensable for step-by-step bottom fishing, especially in late autumn.

When examining in detail the game of other lures mentioned above, one can also note the non-standard shape, somewhat exotic, and the amazing operating principle of spinner baits and buzz baits. These baits, to put it simply, are made according to the “two in one” principle, where the propeller or petal, already a bait, is also connected in one design to the bait on the hook. It can be a twister, a vibrotail, but more often the so-called “squids” are used, consisting of a rubber fringe. Both spinner baits and buzz baits, which are very attractive in appearance to predators, are also able to make sounds due to the rotation of their moving elements, that is, a petal or propeller. Among the baits listed above, they stand out in that they work more in the upper layers of water. Being surface baits, under certain conditions they can be the most effective. And as non-hooking baits, they are successful in that the hook of these baits is open for hooking, unlike other non-hooking baits.

The big advantage of non-snacking baits is that they make it possible to fish where other fishermen with conventional baits do not even stop the speed of the boat or their step when walking along the shore of a reservoir at the sight of snags and thickets of grass sticking out of the water. You just need to take into account that such overgrown and snagged places are usually not deep. Therefore, it is necessary to maintain silence and camouflage here.

Non-hooking baits also need to be selected for fishing conditions. For snags, oscillating spoons are most suitable. Spinner baits and buzz baits are better suited for thickets of egg capsules. For muddy places with duckweed and small vegetation, narrow vibrotails and slugs are more suitable. For deep holes and edges along the boundaries of these holes there is no alternative to foam fish. And, of course, the most sneaky of the non-clinging baits are various artificial worms, which are able to slip among the sticky mud and at the same time be attractive to fish. Other baits will simply be smeared obscenely in greenery and mud.

But the secret of the success or failure of a particular fishing trip is not always found only in the bait. If the wiring has its own zest, that is, not boringly monotonous, but varied and lively, then a predator can be tempted by even the simplest homemade bait.

To fish with non-catching baits, a spinning rod must have special characteristics, namely a fast or ultra-fast action, and also increased power. This makes a rod for this kind of fishing different from universal rods, which rarely have test values higher than 28-30 grams. A reserve of power or strength is required so that, if necessary, it is possible to drag the bait through thickets of dense vegetation and other obstacles, or, as they also say, “pull through the grass...”. But here, probably, you can’t get by with just one rod, since non-hooking baits can be of very different sizes and weights, where the range ranges from the lightest bait to forty-gram oscillating spoons. It is better to have several different spinning rods in stock. In general, short spinning rods are used, within 2.1-2.4 meters. Longer rods are not able to react sensitively to jerks with the tip of the spinning rod when twitching. They are somewhat wobbly and often resonate.

Such a small thing as the small diameter of the first ring on the reel can create line beating when retrieving and disrupt the movement of the bait. Well, you need a good power reel with a worm gear, large gears, and an instant stopper. The fishing line used is braided, as it has no stretch, and therefore accurately and sensitively shows the bite even among thickets of grass.

Alexander Tokarev September 20, 2021 at 05:13