Bait for the feeder - key points of preparation and feeding

The correct bait for the feeder constantly causes controversy and disagreement in the fishing community. This happens due to an excess of information on the Internet aimed at advertising ready-made mixtures, which sometimes misleads novice feeders. Beginners begin to look for the best and most effective working mixture after the bright videos of famous athletes.

Some experienced fishermen with extensive bottom experience fish using spinning rods, filling the feeders with a sticky mixture or even squares of tops so that it lasts longer. All this is wrong and contradicts the correct feeder technique.

The basic basis of the feeder is constant feeding of one point, creating a table and maintaining it in working condition. The right table not only attracts fish, but holds it in place, forcing it to actively search for and eat food at the point.

Feeder bait should not lie in the feeder as a dead weight. On the contrary, the mass should be quickly washed out, but not spill out ahead of time when casting. In order to understand feeder fishing, the approach of “mixing something quickly just to have it” does not work.

You need to immerse yourself as much as possible in the process of preparing bait for the feeder and the technique of use. Proper feeding, feeding itself and the composition of the mixture directly affect the result of feeder fishing. Let's look at how to properly make bait for a feeder with your own hands, use ready-made mixtures and use it all on a pond.

Bait in feeder fishing

When it comes to bait for feeder fishing, the technique itself is important. And the composition of the mixture, its components, as well as correctly configured feeder equipment are tools that allow you to achieve your feeding goals. Different fishing conditions, the presence or absence of a current, the species composition of fish - all this imposes certain nuances on the use of bait and its composition. However, for any conditions there are certain basic points that are specific to feeder fishing.

A point zone is created at a specific point in the water area. The feed is delivered exactly to one point. If already in flight, when casting, the angler sees that the feeder is flying in the wrong direction, the bait should not be allowed to sink to the bottom somewhere near the point - this will distract and scatter the fish over the area. In this case, you should interrupt the flight and twitch to release the feeder in the thickness so that the bait is dispersed in the thickness and does not spoil the feeding area.

Feeder Feeding Basics

How much bait you need for fishing with a feeder depends on the time of fishing, the season and the type of fish. Usually this is from 2 to 5 kilograms per active rod, for about 5 hours. For roach in cold water you need just a little bit, a couple of kilograms. For active fishing for large bream, carp and carp in the summer - much more. Large fish like to eat a lot, especially in summer. And in order to stop it at a point, you need to deliver a certain amount of feed particles there.

Mixing bait for the feeder resembles a ritual, just like measuring the bottom before fishing. Don’t pay attention to the grins of experienced fishermen who abandoned their gear two hours ago, and you are still measuring or stirring the bait.
When the feeder begins to get the fish, and at a fast pace, these grins are usually replaced by genuine interest. Everything is done carefully and purposefully.
The preparation of bait for the feeder must be approached consciously - all the components in it and the consistency are not selected by chance, but for a specific purpose, depending on the fishing conditions and the type of fish.
Further, with experience, this process becomes a habit. Before you make bait for the feeder, you need to understand what is needed in it and why, and how it will all work on the pond.

Starter feeding

After identifying the fishing point, we start feeding. Feeder and bait are inseparable concepts. The name Feeder literally means feeder. Purposefully and calmly we throw 5-15 feeders to a point. Before starting, it is recommended to fill the feeder and place it in water nearby to see how the mixture behaves.

The correct bait should reach the bottom without falling apart as a result of casting. Splashing on the water and passing a layer of water to the bottom. And only then, having fallen into place, the mass should begin to fall apart. We will examine this issue in more detail further, in the section on bait consistency.

We do not use a leash with a hook to reduce tangles. After each cast, wait a couple of minutes for the food to get wet, shake it out with sharp jerks with the rod up, and reel in the feeder. And so on up to 15 repetitions.
At a short distance without flow, feeder bait for whitefish (roach, bream, silver bream) is enough in the amount of 5 small feeders, especially in cold water - you cannot overfeed the fish. When catching large crucian carp or bream in the summer, we cast a lot - up to 15 feeders.
When purposefully catching large carp or carp, you need even more - up to several kilograms with delivery to the point by boat or bait boat. In still water, you can use special feeding troughs with a large feed capacity, rockets on separate rods - fewer casts will be needed.
During the current, measuring, feeding and further fishing is best done with one, working feeder. Feeders of different configurations, sizes and weights are carried away by the flow in different ways, and if you change it after feeding, you may simply not get to the desired point during subsequent casts.

Supplementary feeding during fishing

Calmly and leisurely we feed the point. There is no need to rush to quickly throw the bait on the hook - we are not in a competition. This takes 15-20 minutes. Then you can hang a leash with a hook and cast with bait. At the beginning of fishing, small fish usually gather at the point, so you can put a smaller leash with a hook, with a small bait, one maggot.

If this is not necessary, we immediately throw the ready-made installation onto a large fish - the target of fishing, peas, a bunch of worms or a sandwich. Working and experimenting with bait is an important part of feeder fishing. Read more about feeder nozzles.

The end of the starting feeding does not mean that you need to throw out the feeder and wait until you’re blue in the face for a bite. Feeder is a tempo tackle. When catching leucorrhoea, we recast every 2-3 minutes, checking the bait and refilling the feeder. We continue to feed the fishing point with the feeder. Large fish, especially shallow ones, may be afraid of the splash of the feeder on the water.

For crucian carp, carp, and large bream, we recast less often - once every 7-15 minutes. But we do it anyway - we check the attachment and fill the feeder. For large fish, along with finely dispersed bait, feed particles - peas, corn, pearl barley, maggot or chopped worms - must be delivered to the point. We throw what we catch with. You can mix the feed parts evenly into the bait, or you can stuff them into the middle of the feeder, covering the edges with a sticky mass.

Feeder with small feed capacity

By filling the feeder feeder, the washout time is regulated, depending on the strength of the flow and the consistency of the mass. To reduce this time, we hammer the food loosely, without squeezing too much. In a strong current, we squeeze hard, then the mass will be washed out more slowly in the stream.

It is necessary to crush the food firmly when fishing at great depths - so that the bait reaches the bottom safely and does not fall out somewhere in the depths while the feeder is immersed. Each type of fish has its own characteristics of starting feeding and further feeding. You can familiarize yourself with these nuances in the relevant publications on our website.

Live component in bait

Groundbait from Uncle Vasya

Photo by the author

Having examined the important principles of using bait, without which it is simply useless, let us now move on to preparing at home an extremely cheap, simple, but completely working composition for attracting crucian carp. It is necessary to make a reservation right away: the bait is so simplified that neglecting at least one of the components proposed in its composition will inevitably and significantly worsen its effectiveness.

The basis of any bait is usually a composition of breadcrumbs and oatmeal. Crackers absorb water along with the necessary flavorings and other attractive substances, which is why they noticeably increase in volume. Fresh, unspoiled crackers are partly eaten by fish in the warm season. When added to a dry mixture of water, oatmeal becomes an adhesive substance, so oatmeal acts as a binding component, which then allows the bait to be formed into balls for casting into the fishing zone. Oatmeal is also a muddying and fish-attracting element of bait. For the conditions of catching crucian carp in a pond with shallow depth and standing water, 150-200 grams of oatmeal is enough for 700 grams of crackers, and more is needed in the presence of a current and a significant fishing depth. Unfortunately, ready-made breadcrumbs in the store are too expensive, and their freshness is highly questionable. And recently it has become impossible to buy the usual oatmeal in paper packs. Therefore, it is better to make the base of the bait yourself.

It has been repeatedly tested that a fragrant mixture of white and black crackers has an irresistible effect on crucian carp. To make them, you need to collect the remains of both types of bread, then place them on a baking sheet in the oven at the same temperature as for baking pies, and remove them from there when the characteristic smell of toasted bread begins, but you must try to prevent burning. The oven-dried and cooled bread is then passed through a meat grinder to grind it. It is not difficult to prepare a product close to oatmeal. To do this, roll the rolled oats flakes in a thin layer onto a wide cast-iron frying pan without adding any oil. Then the frying pan is placed on the lowest heat of the gas burner, while its contents are constantly stirred with a spoon. “Hercules” will be ready for further work with it when it gives off a pleasant aroma and the flakes acquire a brownish tone - burning should not be allowed. Of course, rolled oats fried in this way, like crackers, will then need to be ground in a meat grinder or a powerful coffee grinder, but we will postpone this operation for a while.

Further, many fishermen believe that sunflower or any other cake obtained after processing oilseeds is very good in bait for carp fish, especially for crucian carp, carp, carp and tench. This can only be so if if you live next to a specialized plant, having the opportunity to receive the cake of the first freshness, but within a week, irreversible processes of rancidity will begin in the remaining oil in its composition with the release of toxic substances, which, on the contrary, do not attract fish, but repel them. So, before making the next portion of bait, it is much better and more effective to buy about a glass of raw sunflower seeds in the store, carefully, without burning, fry them in a frying pan, and then grind them in a meat grinder or coffee grinder. This is where we need a prepared portion of “rolled oatmeal”, since the seeds alone in the grinding unit produce a very viscous mass, which requires great physical effort, but when mixed with dry flakes the process goes very well. So, remember, for one kilogram of dry bait you will need 100-150 grams of sunflower seeds. However, we must keep in mind that thanks to this component, the bait acquires a shelf life - even if it is stored in the refrigerator, it will still have to be used within two weeks, so there is no need to make a lot of dry bait.

Now about those important additives to the bait, which largely determine its performance, tying the same crucian carp to the fishing site for a long time. And the main role in this is then played by powdered milk, which will require about half a glass per kilogram of ready-made dry bait. Milk can easily replace any dairy baby food, even expired ones that are going to be thrown away. And finally, be sure to add a couple of tablespoons of cocoa powder per kilogram of dry bait mixture. I think it should be clear that all the components collected in one strong container should be thoroughly mixed. That’s all the simple bait for crucian carp “from Uncle Vasya”, but the effect from it can be great. And on the reservoir itself, when you need to add loose soil to the bait, it is better to first mix it with a dry mixture and only then dilute it with water. In this case, the volume of land may well account for half or even a larger share of the total bait.

Of course, when catching crucian carp, like other fish, flavoring agents are important, as they give the underwater inhabitants the direction of movement. However, many of these components from the store are of chemical origin, which, if used carelessly or in excess, may well have the opposite effect. It is much simpler, cheaper and more reliable to use natural aromatic additives, which seem to “refresh” the water and thereby attract fish to the fishing spot. In this regard, I think no one will argue with the fact that crucian carp really “like” the smell of garlic - a clove of it can be finely chopped into the bait prepared on the pond, and also a drop of garlic juice can be squeezed into the nozzle. Of course, it will help if you add finely chopped dill or crushed currant leaves to the bait mixed with water. You just have to use one thing.

Anatoly Mailkov June 6, 2013 at 00:00

Fishing conditions and bait consistency

To properly mix bait for the feeder, we are guided by a general universal rule. The mass should be loose, but mold when squeezed. The food should not fall out of the feeder during casting and passing through the water column. But after a couple of minutes in the water, the mixture should begin to crumble. This bait is called active. Therefore, very sticky, indelible masses and hard cake cubes (makukha), as in donks, are not used.

The consistency of the bait on the feeder for the flow needs to be heavier, stickier, so that the particles are not carried away by the flow, but are retained at the bottom. However, the mass should still not lie in a single sticky lump. The bait should seem to explode and collapse under the influence of water, settling on the bottom and forming turbidity attractive to fish.

The correct consistency of the bait is achieved by a certain ratio of the binding and loosening parts of the mass and the degree of moisture. All this is done by eye, according to the sensations of your hands during kneading. If the bait turns out to be too viscous and sticky (too many binding components or as a result of waterlogging), add rippers. If it’s too dry and crumbly and doesn’t stick together, add water or a binder.

Purchased feeder baits are usually already selected in composition, and we achieve the correct consistency by the degree of moisture. In homemade mixtures, this can be done by changing the ratio of sticky and loosening components.

Sticky adhesives:

Semolina;
Fresh finely ground cake;
Flour;
Molasses or molasses (due to sugar);
Ground rolled oats.

It molds, but is easily destroyed
. Loosening components:

Breadcrumbs;
Ground confectionery products (cookies);
Roasted flour or cereal;
Bran;
Large feed fraction – grain, pearl barley, live ingredients.

To improve porosity, a sieve with a cell size of 2-4 mm is used. Based on numerous videos on YouTube, it seems that the sieve is used to remove debris and large particles. However, this is a secondary function. The main thing is that when the bait is passed through a sieve, the mass is loosened and a large amount of oxygen enters it. This air remains there when molding into the feeder. In the water, the air begins to rise upward in bubbles, destroying the lump faster and better.

Base and feed fraction

We discussed the physical properties, now let’s touch on the qualitative characteristics of the feeder bait. Some fishermen by ready-made mixture mean store-bought bait. However, this is only the basis of bait, which you can do yourself. The correct feeder mass contains approximately 60% base and 40% coarse feed fraction. This can be boiled pearl barley, peas, corn, animal supplements.

The base is that fine sand that, when absorbing moisture, creates the desired consistency in terms of looseness and stickiness. The feed fraction is needed directly to feed large fish so that they remain at the point. A clean, shallow base can be used to catch small whitefish. For large fish - bream, crucian carp, carp and carp, a sufficient amount of feed elements must be present in the mass.

Base and feed elements

The base may contain various small particles. The more types there are, the better. This is the basis for the action of professional multicomponent mixtures. Different foods contain different amino acids and other substances, which together turn on the feeding reflex in fish. Which of them specifically act on fish at this time is unknown. The chance of such an impact is increased by multiple components.

Laxative elements (peanuts, flax, beets) are also added to the base so that the fish’s digestion is accelerated, and it quickly defecates without stopping feeding and without getting full. The best feeder baits are made with these features in mind. However, you should not rely on them completely. No one has yet created an absolutely universal and working recipe.

Corn, worms and maggots in feed for large fish

The large feed fraction allows you to cut off small things when fishing on a feeder. At the same time, the base should not become too dusty. For small fish, on the contrary, you need fine-grained, dusty bait. Any groundbait, store-bought or homemade, requires the following approach - separation and understanding of the base and feed fraction. As food particles, you need to use what the fish are used to. These elements should repeat the bait on the hook.

We catch with worms and add their chopped counterparts. The bait is peas or corn - respectively, and these grains must be present in the feed fraction. The ratio of base and feed element is only approximate. For example, feeder porridge is a ready-made set, where millet or pearl barley is the feed, and crackers and finely ground cake are the binding base. You can use store-bought or homemade mixtures as a base, adding grain or live ingredients to it.

Maggot and casters

Factors influencing the rate of decomposition of bait mixture

So, now we know that the same bait mixture can work differently - depending on how we prepare it. Surely, most readers will still have a few questions, but the answer to them can only be obtained through practice. However, the issue of choosing the type of mixture, I hope, has already been resolved for you, with the possible exception of highly specialized fishing for certain species of fish. Now we should talk about the factors influencing the rate of decay of bait, which, in turn, have a direct impact on its physics. There are only eight main factors.

Viscosity. Perhaps this is one of the main properties of bait and, at the same time, the main factor influencing the rate of its decay. The higher it is, the stronger the particles of the mixture are connected to each other and the longer the bait will disintegrate. First of all, the viscosity of the bait depends on the composition and structure of the initial, base mixture, and only then on what we add to it. The finer the fraction of the bait mixture and the more binding components it contains, the more viscous it will be. Depending on the fishing conditions, this property should be taken into account when preparing effective baits.

As for feeder fishing itself, feeder bait should be slightly more active than float bait: since it is delivered to the fishing point using a feeder, its consistency will be less moistened.

This bait should start working immediately after the feeder is lowered to the bottom. That is why very viscous compositions will be of little use for feeder fishing due to the fact that a classic feeder feeder should be emptied within 3 to 20 minutes (depending on the fishing conditions and the volume of the feeder). This should also be taken into account when mixing the bait mixture.

Method of moisturizing. Along with the viscosity of the bait, the method of moistening it is the main factor influencing the rate of decomposition of the bait as a whole. The drier we prepare the bait mixture, the more its particles will absorb water - and the faster the bait will disintegrate. That is why drier bait, quickly breaking down, releases a huge amount of nutrient particles, which, as moisture is absorbed, actively move in the water column.

This quickly attracts the attention of fish, but, alas, most often small ones. And in order to catch large fish, we use more moistened - inert bait mixtures, which are not of interest to small surface fish due to the lack of “dust”. True, in this case the number of bites will also inevitably decrease.

Density. This factor is connected, first of all, with the force with which we form the bait ball or press the bait into the feeder. The effectiveness of the bait itself also depends on it. The more we compress the bait, the more time it will take for it to disintegrate. This factor should be taken into account when starting feeding - for example, by using balls of different densities, we can increase the total operating time of the bait. In addition, it is also important when fishing in the current.

Fishing conditions. The depth of the reservoir and the presence of current also directly affect the rate of decay of the bait. And if we want it to start working exactly where we are going to fish, these factors must be taken into account when preparing the mixture. For example, weakly moistened bait pressed into a feeder trough, or a ball molded from such bait, is unlikely to reach the bottom in a deep reservoir or in a current.

Screening. As we have already said in previous articles, an unsifted mixture of different sizes works completely differently than a homogeneous and oxygenated one. The latter has a higher decay rate than the first, and works in the water both vertically and horizontally, which attracts fish much faster. However, if we use a screwdriver with a whisk when mixing bait, sifting through a sieve becomes unnecessary, because We will already be able to achieve the same properties of the finished bait mixture.

Presence of animal components. Adding animal food such as bloodworms, maggots and worms (chopped) to the bait mixture increases its effectiveness significantly. But at the same time, this has a direct impact on the rate of decomposition of the bait, especially if animal feed is added in a decent amount. If there is too much of it (especially maggots), this will significantly increase the rate of disintegration of the bait ball or portion of bait in the feeder feeder.

It happens that if, due to inexperience, you scoop up more larvae than necessary with the feeder, the bait may fall out of it even before casting. The problem can be solved simply: before use, you should pour boiling water over the larvae, after which they will stop moving and will no longer be able to destroy the ball. By the way, based not only on personal experience, but also taking into account the reviews of many sports anglers, I can say that the use of stationary larvae is preferable for large fish and does not affect the performance of the bait.

Wet hands. One of the important factors that, as a rule, is almost never taken into account. Unfortunately, many fishermen do not think about the fact that the time of its disintegration depends on what hands - wet or dry - they hammer the bait into the feeder or form a bait ball. For example, a ball molded with wet hands will become a little heavier, and its surface will become more viscous, which is why it will begin to disintegrate a little later.

This factor should be used if we do not want to attract the attention of small fish in the upper layers of the water - for example, if we are faced with the task of catching a cautious or rather passive fish from the bottom with a slowly descending bait.

Fish activity. This factor is also overlooked by many anglers, which is undoubtedly a mistake. In tests with an aquarium or near the shore of a reservoir, we can observe the work of bait, which gradually disintegrates on its own. But it’s enough to see with your own eyes at least once how quickly a tightly molded bait ball falls apart when fish start swarming around it - I’m sure you’ll feed the fishing point more often.

In addition to the above, I would like to point out a few important points:

— all large particles of bait (corn grains, for example) should be soaked separately and added to the bait mixture after sifting;

- animal components are also added after the mixture has been sifted through a sieve or mixed with a whisk. In addition, they must be cleaned of foreign components. For example, maggots should first be separated from the dust with which they are sold and deprived of the unpleasant odor so that it does not spoil the aroma of the bait. To do this, just cover the larvae with semolina or (even better) breadcrumbs and leave them for a while in a cool place. As for bloodworms, this very delicate bait easily sticks together and kneads, so it is quite difficult to mix it with bait. Before adding it to the bait mixture, it should be sprinkled with dry crushed clay or peat (in a ratio of 1:3). Clay and peat especially for this can be purchased in fishing stores, and their cost is low. If it is not possible to sprinkle the bloodworms with clay or peat, dry sand will do as a last resort.

Aroma and flavor enhancers

The basic bait for the feeder itself has some kind of natural aroma. In store-bought mixtures, any flavorings, glutamic acids to enhance the taste, or amino complexes are pre-included in the composition. You can add aromatics separately to homemade dry bases - basil, dill, mint, cinnamon, rosemary and others. This must be done extremely carefully so as not to overdo it. In general, this moment is experimental.

Normally made homemade feeder bait has its own natural aroma. Fish do not like synthetic, artificial odors. A natural natural aroma is better for her. That’s why sometimes colorful, cheap store-bought baits don’t work. They are made to primarily attract the angler behind the store counter, not the fish. Professional, more expensive mixtures contain only natural odors - that’s why athletes use them.

The simplest and most basic recipe for a base mixture is breadcrumbs, ground sunflower cake, cheap finely ground cookies in various proportions. You can add anything else you like to it - ground cereals, oats, semolina, flour. Each fisherman develops his own recipe. In addition to the quality of the mixture, the availability and low cost of the components is also important here. An amateur cannot afford to spend thousands of rubles on each fishing trip, like athletes.

However, you can assemble a normal feeder mixture from simple ingredients from the grocery store. You can prepare bait before fishing every time. Some fishermen immediately make a large bag of base so that it is enough for several trips. And the stern part and the final mixture are made immediately before fishing

Feeder fishing is possible without the use of expensive store-bought mixtures at all. However, good professional baits can be added little by little to the base - for the smell. One package is enough for several fishing trips. For example, a loose base - crackers and cake. In this homemade feeder bait, add rolled oats ground in a coffee grinder during the current for greater stickiness. And to loosen it, add bran.

As a feed fraction, we cook millet, pearl barley, peas or add corn. The main thing is the final consistency. The correct ratio of parts and hydration will come with experience. For complete beginners, you can use a purely store-bought base at first, preferably without obvious strong odors - some kind of station wagon, vanilla, strawberry.

Among the supplements advertised on YouTube, we recommend molasses - it’s a really useful thing. Especially for those with a sweet tooth like bream, crucian carp or carp. If you don't have time to cook porridge, you can simply add sugar to it. If we add aroma to natural baits, it is only a little, for experimentation. This mixture already has its own aroma, attractive to fish. Various oils and vanilla, for example, are already added to the cookies that we ground into the base.

Animators and weights

For fishing in the current, clay, black soil, and soil from molehills can be added to the bait. At a strong flow, the content of such a weighting agent in the feed can reach up to 50%. Also important in the mix are elements like animators. This is all that creates certain visual effects in the water that attract fish.

The best and simplest animator is the living components in the food, which attract the fish with their movements. Floating pieces, husks, bran elements - all this attracts fish. Naturally, there should not be many of them. Dusty animators - flour, milk powder, create changing outlines of clouds of turbidity at the bottom. Mud, for example, attracts roaches well. But on the contrary, it is not needed for bream. Bream need large food particles lying on the bottom at one point.

Animal component

When feeder fishing with animal bait, the same organisms used for fishing are used in the stern - worms, maggots, bloodworms. Such an additive is expensive - it is unlikely that anyone, unless he is an athlete, will pour a kilogram of maggot or worm into the bait. You can do it differently: chop a small amount of worm or put maggot waste (live, drowned, boiled, caster) on top of a bucket with bait.

When recasting, simply add worms a little at a time to the feeder. This kind of heating is especially important when a large fish has already approached and is biting, so that the school lingers at the point. And as the bulk of the feed we use the same barley or millet.

A classic feeder workplace for feeding

Groundbait for flat feeder

Loose bait is not suitable for flat feeders. The food should not collapse when cast and hit the water. For flat fishing, stickier baits or special fine-grained feeding pellets are used. Despite the stickiness, when it gets into the water, the mass should still collapse in time and release the bait stuck in it. Read more about groundbait for flat feeders.

Binders and rippers in bait

What should be the consistency of the prepared complementary food and how does this consistency generally affect the results of fishing, if of course it does? It is not always possible to find a clear answer to such a complex question.

Let's try to figure it out for ourselves and consider everything that happens with the bait from the moment it gets into the mixing bucket until the moment it sinks to the bottom of the reservoir and begins to attract fish.

The bait is prepared in two ways: either in advance of fishing , so that it “stands” for 5-6 hours, or directly during fishing , where it absorbs moisture for only 30-40 minutes. Is there a significant difference between bait that has been prepared for several hours and bait that has been prepared in less than an hour?

It is significant, since the mixture, which has been in a kneaded state for several hours, acquires a cumulative aroma based on the odors inherent in the individual components and flavoring agent. In addition, such bait will be more saturated with water (heavier) and its inertia (from the Latin inertis - inactive, motionless) does not allow the flow of water to significantly carry it over long distances. It is also obvious that such a composition requires additional addition of animators to it immediately before fishing due to the low ability to “dust”.

At the same time, the inert bait does not lie on the bottom in a thin layer, but in slides, which are very attractive to bream and carp due to the predilection of these fish to rummage through the contents of the bottom. Quickly prepared bait does not provide such an advantage, and lies on the bottom as a thin food spot, washed out by the current or fluctuations of water masses. Such a “flat” spot attracts small fish more than large fish. The situation can be corrected only by adding large fractions of the aft part, which the “large grain” will selectively collect.

It is quite natural that there will be readers who will immediately ask the question: how much water is needed for 5 kilograms of bait mixture and how long should the bait sit? I will not answer this question and mislead by giving “specific recommendations.” I will explain this position only by the fact that I cannot predict in my answer exactly what the viscosity of the resulting consistency from the components you added will be. Namely: how will the sweeteners of the confectionery or sugar that you added dissolved in water manifest themselves in the resulting mixture, to what extent the oils released from the added cake, hemp seeds, etc. will prevent moisture absorption.

Finally, how will the gluten of cooked porridge behave in groundbait when interacting with breadcrumbs, powdered milk, and bone meal? It is also difficult to predict how successfully the number of coarse feed objects that you added to the bait mixture will cope with the task of the ripper. One can speak responsibly about specific numbers and proportions only when one is referring to a separate bait recipe, with a specific list of all components used.

I will also note that if the reader is thoughtful and attentive enough to the title of this article, then its topic is not about recipes for all kinds of bait, but about what a novice fisherman needs to know at a minimum in order to understand the features of preparing bait mixtures. If, my dear reader, does not consider himself a “newbie,” then I in no way insist on reading these lines and bow my head with due respect to the brilliant level of his knowledge and skill.

Fishing is not an exact science, which is subject to strict formulas and dry calculations, using which the fisherman will instantly get the desired result. The result, in my opinion, is achieved through the application of cumulative knowledge, many years of experience and the intuition of the fisherman himself.

Based on the eternal debate about “correctly and incorrectly” mixed bait, I propose to look at this problem from a slightly different perspective - from the perspective of the problems that the fisherman wants to solve in the process of applying bait.

If fishing is to be done in the upper layers of water or from the surface, then it is justified to use lightly moistened bait or bait with the consistency of sour cream (the so-called bleak mixture), which will begin to crumble immediately when it enters the water or while sinking to the bottom. Considering that fans of the English bottom fishing rod have to fish from the bottom, then at first glance such bait does not seem to be needed. But at the same time, by adding large sinking fractions to such a mixture, you can force those fish that, for one reason or another, do not want to look for food at the bottom to sink to the bottom.

You can often observe another situation - the fish jumps up and frolics over the baited area, but there are no bites, and for some reason the flavors and all sorts of nutritional components added to the bait do not attract the fish! There is only one thing left to do - look for a way out of this situation, for example, try to collect small things near the surface, which, with their activity, will interest larger fish.

If we fish only from the bottom, and as an “inveterate and conservative” feeder you have no desire to be distracted by feeding “unnecessary” places, then initially you should worry about ensuring that the bait, without crumbling, overcomes the water column and lies on the bottom. Having reached the bottom, it began to “dust”, create turbidity, crumble and thereby attract fish.

Finally, about the most difficult thing - calculating to what degree to moisten and how much to add in order to achieve the desired consistency of the prepared mixture without losing other beneficial properties. As practice shows, sometimes not all professional athletes manage to immediately obtain the desired substance. Therefore, in order to eliminate the mistakes made and regulate the viscosity, they resort to a whole range of industrial rippers and binders existing for these purposes.

Ready mixes

As already mentioned, you should not take a package of store-bought bait as a product ready for fishing. This is just the basic framework. Its use in its pure form works, by and large, only to attract fish, and not to retain it. When hunting large fish, you need to add about 40% of the feed, coarse fraction. Athletes use store-bought bait as a whole cycle, mixing several different bags in a bucket. Some as a base, others with a larger faction. But even when targeting large fish, they add whole grains or an animal component.

We will not present a rating of feeder baits - this is useless work. There is no universal mixture for all occasions. The industry is simply trying to get anglers used to buying ready-made solutions. For some, this is convenient – especially for rare trips to a body of water. Feeder baits Sensas, Traper, Dunaev and others are popular. The same ones from YouTube videos from athletes. However, with frequent trips it is expensive for an amateur. It's easier to build your own system. For example, cooking porridge (the same salapinka), or creating a large supply of dry base, with which you can then carry out some manipulations.

Amino complex

Good store-bought bait can be added to your homemade base as a flavoring and amino complex. Next, we will analyze the basic options for how to properly prepare bait for the feeder yourself, for amateur fishing.

Sieve for mixing bait

After we have moistened the bait, we need to rub it through a sieve, in this way we will get rid of lumps, and the bait itself will become more uniform. A 2mm sieve is used to sift fine-grained groundbait. Also, with the help of this sieve, you can sift maggots, ridding them of debris, and separate living bloodworms from non-living ones.

Sifting through a sieve

A 4 mm sieve is used for sifting baits with a large fraction.

Making your own feeder bait

This suggests two directions for making homemade bait for the feeder. You can make the mixture completely ready for use at home. This is true when a body of water is nearby and there is not a long road ahead. Another option is a separate dry base and boiled feed additive (millet, pearl barley, peas). It is mixed and brought to the desired consistency already on the pond. Over time, each angler develops his own specific bait recipe for the feeder. The main thing is that the requirements for consistency and stern are met.

The simplest basic recipe for baiting a feeder made from rolled oats, which can be mixed in a pond:

Hercules (both binder and feed fraction) – 40%.
Breadcrumbs and finely ground sunflower cake (makukha) in different ratios to each other - 40%.
Bonduelle corn – 1 can (20%).
A packet of vanilla or cinnamon.

The main thing is to finally get the desired crumbly consistency, but with the ability to mold. Accordingly, if we fish with pearl barley, we add this boiled grain instead of corn. The same amount of pre-cooked millet or peas will also work. Pour the corn out of the jar along with the liquid. Together with the moisture of the porridge, this may be enough to moisten the bait. If not, add water from the reservoir.

The main thing is not to overdo it with water, especially if there are no dry ingredients in stock to add in case of excessive waterlogging. After half an hour the mass will swell and be ready. At this time, you can start measuring the bottom. When fishing with a worm or maggot, we add these animal components to the feeder.

There are countless recipes for do-it-yourself bait for a feeder on a similar basis - each fisherman will add something of his own that is more convenient for him or more relevant on a particular body of water. But millet, corn or pearl barley, crackers and cake are universal options that work almost everywhere. Hercules is needed for swelling, stickiness and absorption of excess moisture. We experiment with consistency and hydration, depending on the strength of the current in the reservoir.

Those fishermen who fish often and a lot build a whole system for making bait, stockpiling components in large quantities at home (so as not to run to the store before each fishing trip). You can prepare dry bait for the feeder feeder in large quantities at once and store it in a bag in the pantry, taking a little for each fishing trip. For others, it is more convenient to cook porridge and mix it with the base immediately, bringing the ready-made mixture to the pond.

Homemade dry base

Preparing bait for the feeder at home does not take much time. At one time you can make a lot of mixture, which will be enough for more than one fishing trip. Ingredients vary based on ingredients available by region. Basic ones can be found everywhere in farm animal feed stores, magnets and Pyaterochka stores. There is no single recipe for dry bait for a do-it-yourself feeder. There are also special ratios in the component composition. Let's add what we have. But there are some patterns.

Most of all, by weight, you need to add neutral components that do not stick together when moistened - crackers, mixed feed, mixtures for feeding poultry from grains. We also add finely ground cake and oatmeal - but in smaller quantities, since these substances have adhesive properties. This is an excellent option for budget bait for a do-it-yourself feeder. The result is no worse than store-bought mixtures, but several times cheaper. And special additives, aroma, sweeteners can be added later - during kneading.

Approximate weight distribution:

Feed mixture for poultry – 4 kg. It is quite fine, but you can also grind it on a fine grinder (if possible) to make the mass homogeneous.
Ground rolled oats (flour) – 0.5 kg.
Corn grits (small) – up to 1 kg.
Ground peas, millet, yachka (coffee grinder) – up to 1 kg of each cereal. If you pre-millet the egg and fry it in a frying pan, then in ground form they no longer have adhesive properties.
Breadcrumbs, crushed remains of dry bread, loaves, rolls - whatever you have, up to 5 kg.

In this way you can get up to 15 kg of the base mixture for ridiculous money. If desired, this composition can be enriched:

Any finely ground cereals, chickpeas, buckwheat, rice.
Ground aromatic seeds - flax, hemp, dill, coriander.
Ground peanuts.
Cinnamon.

If it sticks too much when moistened, add bran or crackers. Too porous and does not mold - semolina, flour, finely ground cake. Thus, after several experiments with proportions, we obtain a universal base that will serve for years. Before fishing, we cook some porridge (millet, corn, pearl barley) for the feed fraction - 1 kg. We take the same amount (approximately) for the base reservoir. This is for approximately 2 kg of bait. The ratio may vary between anglers.

Feeder porridge

The so-called porridge for the feeder is essentially the same - the base base plus the feed fraction. It's just getting ready all at once. Millet bait for the feeder is the most commonly used option. Millet is cooked in a large amount of water, but not completely. Then the water is drained and the porridge is washed in cold water. Add a mixture of crackers, cake and other powders to the porridge and bring it to the desired consistency. Then you can add flavorings. Corn porridge for feeder fishing is cooked using the same principle.

Bait on a feeder made from corn grits or millet is medium-fraction - due to the small size of the grains. If you need a larger fraction, cook pearl barley. A universal option is the famous Salapin porridge, which is prepared using several grains at once. As a result, the composition contains feed particles of various sizes. More details - Salapin porridge for feeder.

Salapinka

Pea porridge for feeder fishing is more viscous. To do this you will need regular pea halves. It is boiled into puree, and the bulk base is mixed with this mass. For greater stickiness, add semolina to the mixture. It turns out almost like mastyrka, only looser. All fish love peas. Moreover, on some reservoirs only peas work.

When fishing for large fish, you also need to find whole, unshelled peas. It also needs to be boiled and used as a bait, adding it to the bait for large feed fractions. Sometimes this is an indispensable combination for summer fishing for carp, crucian carp and large bream on a feeder. Learn more about how to cook peas for feeder fishing.

Composition of feeder bait

The composition of bait for feeder fishing directions is formed from two basic components: base and additives. In most cases, the volumes of these bait components are mixed in equal proportions. After mixing the bait base, it is supplemented with auxiliary elements, which include binders, flavors and dyes. The basics include mainly small nutritional elements, such as: cereals, ground crackers, cookies, biscuits, crushed and crushed grains, ground hemp, flax and sunflower seeds, as well as all kinds of cakes.

Additives are high-calorie products, which, under certain conditions of food preparation, are brought to full readiness by heat treatment, otherwise they cook porridge. Their list includes a brew from corn, pearl barley and millet cereals, rolled oats, boiled peas and cereal grains. The auxiliary components in feeder mixes are represented by concentrated and natural flavors, animal additives, food coloring, as well as diluents in the form of garden soil, clay and sand.

The base, when it gets into the water, creates dusting effects due to its fine-grained components. The additive settles to the bottom, covering the fishing area with a tasty, high-calorie, nutritious carpet of a larger fraction. The auxiliary part of feeding adds specificity to complementary food and gives it the qualities necessary for fishing conditions.

Features of feeding fish with a feeder

Whether the bait for the feeder is made with your own hands, or is it a store-bought mixture, without proper and deliberate use you will not get an impressive catch (unless you get caught in the zhor, when everyone and everything bites). Each body of water, fishing conditions and type of fish determine the specific use of bait, its composition and scheme of application on feeder gear.

Bream

If you use feeder bait with your own hands, we focus on peas or millet. This fish does not tolerate any chemicals and loves natural ingredients. In the vast majority of cases, bream fishing occurs on rivers with fairly strong currents and impressive depths. Hence the requirements for bait for the river on the feeder - you need a heavy, large-component mixture. The presence of tasty feed particles is a must.

Adding animal components to the composition when fishing with a worm or maggot using a feeder is necessary. The feeding spot is made compact - the feeder is always thrown in one place, with an error of no more than 1 meter. The bait for bream should lie on the bottom and gradually be washed away by the current. The presence of highly dusty and floating components is not allowed. Read more about the features of feeder bream fishing.

Crucian carp on the feeder

This fish is unpredictable in its tastes. Crucian carp lives everywhere - both in ponds and in rivers with a current. The consistency of bait for crucian carp is selected depending on the fishing conditions. Crucian carp can behave like bream - in large rivers, and react only to natural aromas. In other bodies of water, this fish sometimes readily responds to chemicals, and sometimes to completely strange odors - kerosene, garlic, WD-40, mosquito repellent.

It may take more than one fishing trip to figure out what the silver glutton prefers. In addition, the tastes of crucian carp are not stable over time. Today he eats a worm, and tomorrow he serves corn with maggots, flavored with garlic. On stagnant reservoirs, crucian carp responds well to flat feeders, boilies, pellets and mixed feed. Accordingly, we add what the silverback eats to complementary foods as a feed fraction. Read more about catching crucian carp using feeder gear.

Roach

This fast fish, scurrying everywhere in search of food, responds to constant supplementary feeding with fine, dusty bait. The roach feeder feeding strategy works for all small and medium-sized whitefish - white bream, silver bream, blue bream, white-eye. Large roaches are more serious - they still need food particles at the bottom, sometimes even peas or corn. We feed the roach often, but little by little, to maintain interest.

If we make a large cloud in the current that is carried away by the current, then the roach will follow it away from the fishing point. Feeder fishing for roach is sporty and difficult. This fish often does not swallow the bait, but swims away, holding it with the tip of its mouth. Therefore, hooking with a feeder does not lead to anything. You need to select the keys for the roach - groundbait, bait, leash length, hooking moment. Feeding a fishing point with a roach feeder means constantly throwing in small doses of food. A looser mixture may be needed so that the particles are washed out in the water column when the feeder lands.

Carp and carp

You need to mix the bait for the feeder for carp or carp in the same way as you prepare food for yourself. These gourmets love to eat delicious food. Errors in aromatics will discourage baleen from visiting the fishing point for a long time. Carp need large, tasty feed elements - worms, corn, pellets, boilies. You need to feed a lot, especially in summer.

If the fish is actively feeding, it is easy to tempt it to bite, the main thing is to get into the place. But in the summer, when the thick-sided gluttons are glutted due to the abundance of natural food, the fisherman needs to try to offer the carp something tasty, sweet and visually attractive. The river carp uses a classic feeder, while the main gear for pond carp is a flat fish with boilies and pelets, as well as appropriate bait.

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Third stage

For most anglers, complementary foods are ready after re-wetting. However, in certain situations, you can wet the food a third time to “wet” the mixture, which will help make it less active at the bottom. This is the best option for holding large fish for a long period of time... and this again brings us back to the mechanical properties of groundbait