Very often, when talking about braid, there is a recommendation to use only metal spools of spinning reels, and even with a hard metal side. However, it is usually not indicated why this is needed. You might think (and many people think) that the braid wears out the plastic spool, and sometimes it “saws through” the guide rings. But the danger is different: a plastic spool for a reel can quickly wear out the braid itself, because such spools often have a rough coating.
Often in advertising they point out the positive qualities of braid, but they “forget” to note that braid often wears out faster than high-quality fishing line. However, experience suggests that braid can also be used on a plastic spool, since there is no metal one. The front plastic side just needs to be sanded well (first with the finest-grained sandpaper, then with some kind of polish, for example GOI paste). And although the wear on the braid will still be greater than on a metal spool, it will not be much at all.
Spinning rod and reel
An important issue for a spinning angler is the cost ratio between the reel and the rod. I think I won’t be mistaken if I say that for many it is 1:1. Very often on reservoirs you can see a common set of rod + reel with a total cost of 60 - 120 USD. at the same ratio (30 – 60 bucks for a rod and the same amount for a reel). But when you have 100 USD for everything, then another option seems optimal: about 30% of the cost is taken by the spinning rod and 70% by the reel.
A relatively cheap 25-30 USD (but plug-in!) rod + a high-quality reel (70-75 USD) will be a cohesive set. A reel with a smooth, easy stroke, without backlash, will make even a cheap Chinese or Polish rod quite sensitive (of course, subject to a reasonable choice of rod test). There is another argument in favor of such a kit: the issue of durability.
If we discard all the factors that cause unnatural wear or breakage of the fishing rod through our own fault, then the spinning rod is the more durable element, the reel is the more vulnerable thing. And even being a “thoroughbred” in the price range up to 30 USD. rattles and crackles already for the 2nd season. But a “meat grinder” with an average price tag is more durable and reliable.
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Metal spool and its features
Depending on the material of the spool, the price may vary significantly. It is made of metal, plastic, titanium or aluminum. There is another option that deserves special attention - composite, which allows you to reduce the weight of the part while maintaining strength and reliability. Depending on the characteristics of the material, the practicality and durability of using the coil element will differ. The most common material remains metal. The technical characteristics meet the requirements of the fisherman, and the cost is always in an affordable range.
The need for reinforcement of coil parts
A high-quality metal spool cannot compare with a plastic one, although some experts prove the opposite. If you have a limited budget, but purchasing is a priority, feel free to buy the second option. It is this element of the reel that does not experience significant load during normal fishing mode. For this reason, reinforcement and high requirements regarding strength are not relevant, but subject to temporary use. In all other cases, care must be taken to have metal replacement elements for the coils.
Which reel spool to buy?
You can buy a spool for a reel of different sizes depending on the dimensions of the latter. At a great distance from the shore and if it is necessary to catch large fish, the equipment must be appropriate. The depth indicator is also important in this matter. The quantitative characteristics of the wound fishing line depend on it. It is necessary to pay special attention to the use of backing in deep spools. This will help eliminate unnecessary line friction during long casts. It is recommended to wind the fishing line 2-3 mm deeper from the side, which will help avoid dropping the loops.
Manufacturers have different prices for spools, but it is recommended to choose models that match the reel brand. This is the best option. A great option is to have several spare spools with different line diameters. This allows you to adapt a certain tackle to different fishing conditions. Experienced fishermen are well acquainted with such methodical tricks, but beginners have yet to learn the intricacies of using spare elements for reels.
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general information
Reel spool
Reel spools are made of durable plastic or metal. Reels are also produced whose spools are made of carbon fiber and have a metal side. One of the best options is a metal spool with a titanium nitride coated carbide front. When using a reel, you need to pay attention to the quality of the surface of the spool side, which determines the flight range of the bait and the safety of the fishing line surface. Any scratches, burrs or depressions that occur must be removed with fine sandpaper and polished.
There is an opinion that plastic spools cannot be used when fishing with braided line. However, if you clean and polish the seams formed when casting the spool, the spool becomes quite suitable for braided fishing line.
The spool usually holds more than 100 m of fishing line needed for fishing. Therefore, to fill the excess volume, inexpensive monofilament fishing line is wound under the main line. In order for the line to come off the spool when casting without tangling and significant resistance, the spool must be filled with line, not reaching 2-3 mm to the upper edge of the front edge.
What it is?
This is a cylindrical part with a recess that is filled with fishing line. What is this part of the coil made of? The two most common materials are aluminum and graphite. The main one, as a rule, is aluminum or made of some alloy, with the addition of the same aluminum, and the spare one is graphite.
What interests us most about any spinning reel is: the side, the weight and the quality of the line winding. The bead is the uppermost part that the line or line comes into contact with when casting. It is believed that this side should be somehow especially strong so that it does not rub through with braided fishing line.
Important parameters for choosing a carp reel
In order to successfully choose the most suitable (ideally: high-quality, but inexpensive) carp reel specifically for your carp fishing conditions, you need to pay attention to its main characteristics. In fact, all modern manufacturers, some of them necessarily indicate on the products themselves, while the rest can be easily found on the “virtual showcases” of official websites. So, what should you pay attention to first?
Spool dimensions/dimensions
According to the majority of experienced fishermen, the most suitable for carp fishing are spinning reels with baitrunners from Daiwa. With spool sizes from 7000 (this characteristic is measured in thousands) - for the first) and 4500 - for the second (i.e. the Daiva brand).
It doesn’t make sense to use other reels from these companies (or any others), but smaller in size, since according to their operating parameters they are not intended for carp fishing, but for ordinary / amateur feeder tackle (or match).
the line from larger spools . And also (in tandem with the gear ratio values) on the length of the fishing line or cord that will be unwound from the reel in one turn of the handle.
Some experienced carp anglers, recalling the beginning of their journey in carp fishing, recommend that beginners at the beginning do not rush and start their training using less expensive (in cost) Daiwa reels. Further, as you gain experience in long/heavy casting, you can already buy cool Shimano models (sizes over 8000).
External spool shape
The optimal choice specifically for sport carp fishing are fishing reels with two types/shapes of spools: “ABS” and “Long Cast”. These parameters must be indicated in the product characteristics.
Spools with the designation “ABS” have a reverse cone-shaped design, which in practice allows you to wind the fishing line (and even cord or braid) in such a way that its upper turns do not slip at all when casting. That is, good winding can be done even under the very edge.
Spools marked “Long Cast” have the shape of a regular cone, so, unlike the previous option, the line from the “top” can still slip off. But specifically for the longest and most powerful casting, you won’t find a better alternative. And the problem with slipping is easily solved: do not wind the fishing line 2-3 mm to the edge of the side. And everything will be fine!
"Lumber capacity"
Behind this specific (common especially among fishermen) term lies how much fishing line a spool of a certain diameter can hold. Subject to maximum filling, that is, to the very edges of the side. As you can already guess, this parameter directly depends on the size of the spool (the larger the dimensions, the more fishing line it will hold). For visual convenience of choice, some global manufacturers indicate this value directly on carp reels.
Why do you need a second graphite spool?
There are three points in which this is important to us:
- First, it is needed when we need a second cord. Let's say the fishing conditions have changed, and we need to cast further. We switch the spool to a spare graphite one, on which a thinner cord is wound, and the bait will fly further.
- Second, during the winding process for speed and convenience. With it, the winding is shortened by half. And that's why. In this case, winding the fishing line looks like this. We put in a second, spare one and wind the backing to the required level, and then we put in a new one and wind the fishing line onto it. The backing is at the bottom, and the main cord is at the top. When we do not have it, we will have to use a second coil, i.e. the winding operation will be doubled.
- Third. To lighten the weight. It is several tens of grams lighter than the same one, but made of metal.
How to wind backing?
Winding backing on a spinning reel or multiplier is not a difficult task, requiring extensive experience, knowledge and dexterity. The main thing is to correctly determine the amount of fishing line to be reeled in in order to ensure the required height of the main thread from the side of the spool.
There is one simple way to accurately determine the required backing length. To do this, you will need a spare spool of the same capacity as the main one. The gear assembly operation itself looks like this:
- A spare spool is installed on the reel;
- The main line is first wound onto it. We wind the entire bobbin to the end;
- We tie a backing to the free end of the working cord;
- We wind in the required amount of winding, leaving 2–3 mm to the top of the spool;
- We remove the spare spool from the reel and install the main one, which will be used for fishing;
- All that remains is to rewind the thread onto the working bobbin with the auxiliary one.
Now the winding is on the bottom of the spool, and the main line is on top in full combat readiness.
If there is no spare spool of similar line capacity, you will have to spend a little more effort. For this we need several empty spools of fishing line. You can use reels, suitable thread cassettes and similar containers.
The backing on the reel spool is wound according to the following algorithm:
- First we wind the main thread;
- We attach the backing to it with a special knot;
- We wind up the required amount of winding, leaving a couple of millimeters, as in the first case;
- We wind the thread onto a bobbin or cassette;
- Now you need to rewind the fishing line to the next container so that the backing is on top of the main cord;
- After such manipulations, we fix the free end of the winding onto the spool and rewind the vein to the end.
That's it, the reel is loaded with fishing line and is ready for use on the pond.
Is it possible to fully fish with a graphite spool?
Some spinning anglers have concerns about whether it will withstand fishing with a braided line. Here you can pay attention to two points: most spinning reels are equipped with spare graphite or plastic ones with an aluminum side. But, there are reels in which this spare part is completely plastic. This is done to reduce the cost.
Fears that the cord will damage the side are in vain. Still, the main load falls on the line roller. Most often there are cuts there. And if the plastic side wears out, it will be due to a huge number of fishing trips. More likely, the internal mechanisms will become unusable, and we will have to throw away the coil, rather than the graphite side being erased.
To sum it up, we can say that the second graphite spool is a useful thing. It will help you wind the fishing line and lighten the weight if necessary for the correct balance of the gear. And sometimes a second cord is simply needed when fishing.
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And yet, how necessary is the “worm” in the reel mechanism?
The vast majority of the reels that I have been using in recent years have a “worm” (aka an endless screw). The need for its presence depends largely on the fishing method and the type of bait.
Whether, for example, you fish only with spinners, crank wobblers, or, using the classic method, with jigs, then you should be completely satisfied with a high-quality reel without an endless end. In the case when you practice those types of fishing that require a jerking technique of wiring, and the tension of the fishing line during the winding process is very variable, the absence of a “worm” can have the most negative effect - “beards” will fly off every now and then.
Moreover, purely externally, winding on reels of adjacent series, but with and without a screw, may be almost the same, however, when fishing, say, with poppers, the difference in the operating advantages of such reels will appear very soon. I have, for example, “Zester” and “Exia”. There are practically no visual differences in the winding profile of either reel, and in terms of fishing, as long as it concerns “spinners” or jigs, too. But once you put in a minnow wobbler and start fishing using the “twitching” method, the difference is sure to show up: “Exia”, if it drops a small “beard,” will only be once or twice per fishing, whereas with “Zester” this will happen several times times more often. So decide for yourself - depending more on your preferences for bait and wiring technique - how necessary a reel with a “worm” is for you.
How to tie fishing line to a winter reel
Fishing from ice is an interesting process, but winding a fishing line on a winter reel contains many nuances. It is not spacious enough, and in the process of fishing for large prey, the main load falls on the first node. Therefore, the main step will be to choose the right knot; it should hold the line if the fish completely unwinds the reel, and not spin during the fishing process.
Winding must be done under tension
However, the knot should not create a slide and interfere with the free movement of the spool during casting.
You need to wind it depending on the type of coil and the selected material. The process is practically no different from conventional winding.
How to properly wind fishing line on a reel - video instructions:
I'm not happy with the winding profile on the reel. What can be done?
I discussed this issue in detail in one of the issues of the magazine “Fish with us!”, as well as in the book “Winter Spinning”. So I can redirect you to one of these publications. In addition to the methods described there for adjusting the laying of the fishing line (using “negative backing” and bobbin washers), sometimes the desired result can be achieved in a simple and somewhat unexpected way - by turning the roller 180°. We are talking about an asymmetrical video made like a “twist buster”. Rollers of this type help reduce the twisting of hard (mostly monofilament) fishing lines; they are ineffective for soft cords. Therefore, by turning the roller over with a cone in the opposite direction, you won’t lose much, but the laying profile may well become more even. I myself don’t fully understand what the reason is, but on a couple of reels I was able to achieve improved cord laying using this simple technique.
Shallow and deep spools - which is better?
Until a certain time, spools of small line capacity (for reels of considerable size) were considered “match”, that is, intended for float fishing. Then, in the assortment of serious companies (Daiwa, Shimano), purely spinning reels with very small spools appeared. These are reels of the so-called “sports” class. Our first reaction to low-capacity coils was very negative. Yes, they are designed almost exclusively for braided cords, but even very thin braided spools on such reels rarely last more than a hundred meters. Many quickly realized that the lifespan of a piece of cord even 135 m long is not 35% longer than that of a 100-meter one. and almost twice. Therefore, a 100-meter unwinding was quite rightly considered irrational, and, accordingly, low-capacity reels were considered not to correspond to the ideal. As a compromise option, if you remember, they offered to purchase an additional deeper spool from Emblemka for the Tim Daiwa reel... Then “public opinion” changed somewhat and they began to treat low-capacity spools with greater understanding. This was not least due to the fact that the perception of what should be called “thin braid” became slightly different.
If we discard the coarse rope-like cords (albeit sometimes with stated diameters of 0.12 mm or so), then it turns out that on the spool, for example, a TD MgS 1000 reel, one hundred and thirty meters of high-quality thin “thread” can easily fit - such as, for example , Pro-Jig. In this situation, “sports” type reels perform at their best, and there is no longer any need to talk about irrationality. I have heard from several people that braid still has the property of “rotting,” that is, deteriorating if it is left wet on the spool for a long time. This, although it contradicts the property of complete inertness of their fibers to water and substances dissolved in it, declared by the manufacturers of braided fishing lines, and is not confirmed by my own experience, still leads to certain thoughts. You may have noticed that if you have a large piece of braided fishing line wound onto a deep spool, then over time the laying of its lower layers acquires a wave-like structure. If we were talking about monofilament, then this could be explained by changes in its length in a wet and dry state. Theoretically, this should not happen with “braid,” but doubts remain, and therefore very deep spools, a good half of the capacity of which are used exclusively as a “warehouse” for the unused part of the cord, are perhaps also not the best option. The optimal spool, in my opinion, will be one that can hold about one and a half hundred meters of the cord that you intend to use most often. Here, it’s probably worth noting once again that you definitely shouldn’t rely on the line capacity indicated on the spool and the formal diameter of the cord - otherwise problems may arise.
What to look for when choosing a reel
Choice is always a difficult matter. Each manufacturer has many lines with different sizes. Not only a beginner, but also an experienced spinning player will not be able to immediately understand the wide range of reels and their characteristics in order to make the right decision about purchasing the right model.
Number of bearings
One of the main characteristics of the reel that people pay attention to. The quantity can reach up to 13 pieces. They serve for smooth and soft operation of all components and mechanisms of the reel. Some little-known manufacturers mislead buyers by indicating a large number of bearings, which in reality may be half as many.
Instead of bearings there are plastic bushings, which have a shorter service life and reliability. For reliable, soft operation, 4-6 bearings in the design are sufficient. All the rest do not provide additional useful properties, but significantly increase the cost of the finished product. Bearings must be periodically cleaned and lubricated to prevent premature wear and failure.
It is recommended to choose a reel that has a metal bearing in the line roller. This element is subject to constant loads and contamination. If the roller does not function, the line or braided cord will be subject to high friction, and the cord will soon easily cut a groove in the roller.
Smooth and easy reel movement
Such characteristics have a serious impact on the outcome of fishing, as it allows you to easily and correctly control the bait and evenly lay the line on the spool. Incorrect laying creates problems during fishing, since the line may become tangled during casting, and this will not make it possible to cast the bait far and accurately, which is important.
The spool mechanism during operation should not create extraneous noise, as it is transmitted along the fishing line to the bait and can alert the fish. The smoothness of the spool is also important, so you must check it by running your finger along its side. If there are even the slightest nicks, it is better not to buy such a reel.
The relationship between the diameter of the fishing line and its quantity
Each spool has a capacity indicated, that is, how many meters of fishing line of a certain diameter the spool can hold. It is necessary to select a reel for the diameter of the fishing line used so that it can accommodate at least 100 - 150 meters. There is no general classification of coils by size. But most anglers are accustomed to relying on the system from Shimano, where reels are classified by size 1000, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, 5000, 6000.
Having similar sizes of reels from other manufacturers, the capacity of their spools may not coincide with the capacity of Shimanov's. The designation 0.3/150 indicates that 150 meters of monofilament line with a diameter of 0.3 mm can be wound onto the spool.
Line laying arm
There are no special requirements for its design, since its task is to ensure correct winding of the fishing line (or rather, it should ensure that the fishing line accurately hits the roller) and correct blocking, and clear opening and fixation. When buying a reel, it is better to inspect the line handler for the presence of burrs. Burrs significantly affect the durability and strength of the fishing line.
Brake clutch
Spinning reels can have two types of friction brake: front and rear. It is necessary to prevent rotation of the spool when winding under load, as well as to release the line during strong jerks of the fish. This prevents the line from breaking if its breaking load is significantly less than the effort during fishing.
The front friction brake is located on the spool, the rear at the end of the reel. For spinning fishing, the front drag is considered preferable. It is simpler, more convenient, has greater smoothness and accuracy of adjustment.
Reels with rear drag are used for feeder or carp fishing, when it is impossible to immediately and precisely adjust the drag to the expected size of the fish. In this type of fishing, the fisherman does not hold the rod directly in his hands until he bites. When fishing for large carp, reels with a rear drag and a baitrunner are used, which resets all clutch settings at the first sharp jerk of the fish in order to avoid breakage of the equipment.
Long casting system
Casting range is an important component for a spinning player. The farther you can throw the bait, the larger the area you can fish. There are several methods to increase the casting distance of a reel. Some manufacturers use a special spool shape, tapered, when the spool increases towards the base of the reel. The farther turns of the line have a larger winding diameter than those at the edge of the spool. This allows them to come off without additional friction on the spool collar. Such spools are usually used when fishing for carp.
The casting distance can be increased by correct winding of the fishing line on the spool, when the turns cross, and do not lie next to each other, drowning the honey with adjacent turns. This laying system is achieved with an endless screw (worm gear). However, it is worth noting that the Daiva company refused to use an endless screw even in top models. But this did not stop it from achieving perfectly correct winding.
Casting distance can be increased by using reels with larger spools and shallower spool depths. This allows the line to flow more freely without additional friction on the spool collar with the lower turns.
Handle mounting types
The shape of the handle in the reel can be any, since this factor does not have a special impact on the fishing process. Despite this, designers are always working on the external shape of the handle. At the same time, it can be attached in various ways, for example:
- The handle can simply be screwed into the reel frame.
- Can be secured with a screw.
- Can be secured with a rivet.
Any type of fastening has its advantages and disadvantages, but this does not affect the fishing process in any way. If the handle is attached with a screw or screwed in, then it is better to pay attention to the size of the thread: threads that are too small will wear out quickly, as they can be easily torn off.
Spare spool
A nice bonus that not every manufacturer provides for a specific model. A spare spool is necessary when fishing you need to change equipment to a more sensitive one or, conversely, with a higher breaking load. This is much cheaper than buying a completely new additional set of spinning rod and reel.
Traction force
An important component that few people pay attention to. Indicated in kilograms. This is the maximum force that the reel can handle when landing fish without the help of a rod, that is, working like a winch. For fishing with heavy, stubborn baits or large fish, it is recommended to use reels with a pulling force of at least 5 kg. Otherwise, the reel can simply be “killed” by frequent idle casts in just a few seasons.
Gear ratio
This value means the number of turns of the fishing line (thread) that the fisherman makes with 1 turn of the handle. For example, a recording of 1:5 means that in 1 turn of the handle the line will have time to wrap around the spool 5 times.
There are several types of inertia-free gear ratios:
- high-speed - from 1:6 to 1:7.2;
- universal – from 1:4.7 to 1:1.6;
- power – from 1:4 to 1:4.7.
It is recommended to take power devices for large specimens of predators. For ultralight fishing - high-speed ones. For other cases, universal coils are perfect.
Spool material
They can be made from light alloys, plastic, graphite. Plastic spools are used only if monofilament fishing line is used. The braided cord will cut through it. Light alloy spools are preferred for spinning fishing. To protect the spool from wear, its collar must be coated with titanium nitrite.
Reel weight
As a rule, experienced spinningists pay attention to this parameter, or if a reel for ultralight tackle is needed. Less weight will reduce stress on your arms. It is more pleasant to fish with light tackle; you don’t feel tired after a hard day of fishing. Less weight gives the spinning tackle greater balance.
Other characteristics
In addition to the basic data, there are other indicators that you should pay attention to. For example, the gear ratio, which indicates the number of revolutions of the spool with one turn of the handle. Based on this feature, coils are divided into three types:
- Power . With a gear ratio of about 4.0-4.7.
- Universal . With a number of revolutions from 5.0 to 5.5.
- High-speed , providing a number of revolutions in the range of 6.0-7.2.
This factor should be paid attention to if fishing conditions are far from optimal. As a rule, power reels are designed for catching large fish, while high-speed reels are more suitable for ultralight spinning rods.
If we talk about beginner spinners, then the universal type is more suitable for them. It will take a long time for a spinner to learn to feel the tackle, so such products will have to be used for a long time.
The number of bearings is an equally important indicator, since bearings ensure smooth running as well as durability of the product. At the same time, a high-quality reel may have only 4 bearings, while a low-quality reel may have all 12. It all depends on the integrity of the manufacturer and his responsibility to customers.
Manufacturer. This is also worth paying attention to, despite the fact that branded coils are somewhat more expensive. Although there are pitfalls here too, eminent, well-known manufacturers value their brand. As a rule, such reels differ noticeably in quality, smoothness and durability, although you can easily purchase a fake. This is especially true for Chinese products, which simply may turn out to be a copy of a famous model. For beginners, this is not so important, since they can easily ruin an expensive and high-quality item.
What should you pay attention to first in the operation of the reel clutch?
If we are talking about cheap reels with a front clutch, then you need to make sure? that the adjusting nut does not tend to self-tighten. Having established a certain value of the tightening force, try to rotate the spool in the direction in which it would turn when releasing the line. Then do the same with two or three more values of tightening force. On some reels, the adjusting nut tends to rotate along with the spool, thereby increasing the tightening force against our will, which ultimately leads to the line breaking on the fish. Such reels should be strictly avoided. Some “meat grinders” (with an emphasis on power parameters) have difficulty adjusting the tightening force in the area of low values. In principle, there is nothing particularly unpleasant about this - you just need to keep in mind that fishing line with a strength below a certain level should not be wound on such reels.
How permissible is it to use components from one reel model in another?
For some models this is not only justified, but also advisable. For example, among Banax reels there are two series - Saint and Cion. The first of them can be used as an illustration of what was said just above - the clutch does not always turn on in time if the strength of the cord is less than 4 kg. But the clutch of the slightly more expensive Cion reel is made of better quality and there are no problems in its operation. Therefore, having purchased a reserve spool from “Sion”, you can use it with relatively thin cords on the “Saint”, leaving its “native” spool for a stronger cord. As for other options for using spare parts from different models of “meat grinders,” they are also quite acceptable. Therefore, you should not throw your outdated coil in the trash - some of its “organs” can be successfully “transplanted” to other coils if the need arises. This could be, for example, a handle (the geometry of its seat very often coincides), a bow spring, bearings... It is these elements that most often fail, and a long-dead reel can successfully manifest itself as a “donor”. What is significant is that we are often talking about models from fundamentally different companies. I will only list the names of those among which I have successfully exchanged parts. These are coils from Shina, Quantum, DAM, Banax, Mitchell...
