Supply for pike perch in winter

The most popular equipment for catching pike perch in winter is considered to be a girder, but some fishermen use another equipment, a stand. This device is designed for passive hunting of predatory fish. If the bait has a special flag to signal a bite, then the bait for pike perch does not have such a detail, hooking is not carried out in this case, the fish clings to the hook itself.

Many fishermen consider this type of fishing to be a rather boring activity, but it is not the hooking of the fish, but the fishing technique that is particularly exciting. If desired and with a minimal investment of financial resources, anyone can make a supply. This type of gear can be used even by inexperienced fishermen in current or still water. In our article we will talk about what a stand is, learn about the equipment, the rules for selecting a place for catching pike perch and the technique for landing this fish.

Meaning of the term

The fishing term postavushka or passive girder indicates the simplest gear that is used to catch many types of predatory fish in the winter and summer seasons. Winter gear is not equipped with bite alarms, which are present in girders. Therefore, the fisherman can not be distracted by predators, but catch small fish with a jig rod. During winter fishing, you can catch pike perch, burbot, striped bass, large pike, and in some cases even trout.

When hunting for each of the fish described, it is necessary to take into account the behavior of each of the inhabitants of the reservoirs, lifestyle, and food supply. The main advantages of our gear over standard winter gear are:

• The ability to catch small fish with a jig without diverting attention to predatory fish, which usually happens when installing several girders;
• The fisherman can move freely around the reservoir in search of prey;
• Ease of manufacture and low cost of gear;
• The stand is installed under the ice, its base is securely fixed to the surface. This makes it possible for pike perch and other predatory fish to take bait without hindrance. When fishing with a zherlitsa, the line in the holes often freezes, so at the first jerk after resistance, a pike or pike perch can abandon the prey.

Advice! Any fisherman can install a signaling device on the equipment in question. To do this, tie a fishing line to two adjacent stands, and install a small branch in the middle of the span. The movement of this part will be a kind of signal about a bite.

Description of the gear

The bait is a simple device for catching predatory fish in winter and summer. The winter version is distinguished by the absence of a bite alarm, like the zherlitsa, so the fisherman does not have to be distracted by an accidentally triggered flag. In addition to pike perch, they catch burbot, perch, pike, and sometimes even trout. To catch a specific fish, you need to take into account its behavior, habitat in the reservoir and preferences in choosing food.

The tackle differs from classic girders in the following advantages:

1. Versatility. With the help of the stand you can catch small fish using a jig.
2. Independence. Having installed several structures on the ice, the angler can continue fishing in any other place, without being tied to one hole. The tackle will automatically detect the bite.
3. Easy to use and affordable price.
4. Minimal risk of breakage. Unlike the girder, the supply is installed under the ice, and the body is mounted on the surface of the ice. Having noticed the bait, the pike perch will definitely attack it and be hooked.

If you wish, you can equip the supply with a primitive bite alarm. To do this, just take a small twig and attach it to the fishing line. In case of a bite, such a part will begin to move.

Equipment supplied

Any fisherman makes each of the tackles in his own way, this also applies to the supply. However, the basic composition of the device in question includes the following parts:

• Reel made of plastic or rubber tube;
• Fishing line of a certain section;
• Sinker;
• Durable leash;
• Hook (double or tee).

When fishing for pike perch using baits, it is necessary to measure the depth of the reservoir. So, the length of the main line should be about a meter longer than this, which will prevent the predator from getting entangled in snags or coastal vegetation and breaking the leash. To limit the movements of the fish, a small incision is made in the reel material, where the fishing line is installed.

As we have already said, the supply is placed under the ice; this device must be fixed on the surface. For this purpose, a reel is used; a strong cord is tied to its central part. After lowering the rig, a wooden stick is threaded through the loop and placed in the middle of the hole.

Photo 1. The simplest installation.

Deliveries

09/11/2012 Several years ago, one evening after a not very successful fishing trip at one of the reservoirs near Moscow, my friends and I discussed a sore point - how to catch pike perch. The search of edges and slopes yielded nothing. Perhaps the pike perch came out here to feed, but did so only sporadically, so it was almost impossible to be in the right place at the right time. The problem was that, judging by the echo sounder readings, it was standing at half-water most of the time, at a horizon of 5–6 meters.

PROBLEM

It seems that everything is simple: find underwater navels or braids with such depth and catch without problems. But it was precisely in such places that there were no pike perch. And in places where the total depth was 10–12 meters, it stayed in the water column.

Casting a wobbler, even a deep-sea one, to a depth of 5–6 meters is almost pointless. To deepen it, a sufficiently large distance is required, so that the working area where the bait will pass at the required depth will be very short. The only way out is trolling, but it is unacceptable in our company as a completely unsportsmanlike method of fishing. There were still mugs that made it possible to fish at such a depth, but given that the weather was windy, they would have been of little use.

However, there is one way that allows you to catch in such a situation. This is a jig in the water column. Its essence is that, knowing at what speed a particular jig bait sinks, you can, by counting the time during which it reaches the desired depth, begin a uniform retrieve. Once upon a time, immediately after the advent of silicone baits, we successfully caught asps using vibrating tails using this method. But it’s one thing to lead the bait a meter or two from the surface, and quite another thing to move it 5–6 meters away. To be honest, several times I tried to use this method when fishing for pike perch, but to no avail, although, as I know, some experienced spinning anglers succeed in this.

When looking through the possible fishing options, we remembered the old, still ancient, method - placing fish. I had several of them lying around at home, but I didn’t have them with me, which I could only regret. But after that memorable conversation, these simple gear migrated from the closet to my fishing bag, fortunately they do not take up much space. I still fish with a jig most of the time, and use baits only occasionally when the jig is ineffective.

WHY SUPPLIERS?

Supplies have several advantages that more popular mugs lack. Firstly, they allow you to keep live bait exactly in the place where a predator is most likely to bite. The second advantage of this gear is that the fisherman does not have to be nearby and constantly monitor their location. Of course, it is desirable that the gear be within sight, even through binoculars. However, where there are not an abundance of motor boats and jet skis, this is not necessary.

Although fishing with baits in itself is very effective, I often use it in a slightly different capacity. When my friends and I go fishing for several days, I try to immediately arrange the fishing tackle in such a way that I can see them from the camp with binoculars. Then, when inverting, you can immediately detect the time when this happened. When fishing for pike perch, this is very important, since this fish is punctual and most often comes out to feed at the same time. When this is known, then pike perch can be expected with a spinning rod, which personally gives me more pleasure from fishing.

DEVICE AND EQUIPMENT

The cups I use have a lot in common with regular mugs, but are much easier to use. The supply is made from a square piece of foam plastic approximately 10 by 10 cm in size and 5 cm thick. Wide cuts are made on the foam, like on a reel. I paint one side red, the other remains white. Like the mug, the stand has an antenna - this is a short piece of a wooden stick, only 3-4 cm long. On it I put a piece of silicone tube, also 3-4 cm long, in which I make a cut for the fishing line, just like on the mugs. The result is a short antenna that rises above the foam plastic by only 5–6 cm. This is much smaller than that of a regular circle, so the installation is much more stable than a circle. To further increase stability, when lowering the load, I do not put the tackle under tension, but always leave a small reserve of fishing line, about a meter.

As the main line, I use regular fishing line with a diameter of 0.3–0.4 mm. Its supply should be greater than on a regular mug. On my supplies it is usually 20 meters. The weight of the end weight depends on the conditions, primarily the presence of current and wind. The minimum weight I use is only 20 grams, the maximum is over 100.

It seems that the larger the load, the more reliable and efficient the tackle will work, but in practice, a minimum load also has advantages. With some wind, a relatively light load creeps along little by little, and often this is what brings success. Of course, you can only allow the gear to move when fishing on even waters. However, even here there is a danger of getting caught on something at the bottom. In order not to lose all the equipment, in this case I place a short leash made of less strong fishing line in front of the sinker. So when I get hooked, I usually only lose the sinker.

Considering that the main task of the sinker is to hold the tackle, then the optimal one, if we talk about its shape, can be considered a banal spoon. You can, of course, use more complex models with lugs, but they are more expensive and not much more effective. Another option is sinkers with wings; they “crawl” well along the bottom.

The leash is attached through a regular swivel, with the second eyelet attached to the main fishing line. Its movement is limited by two stoppers. Silicone stoppers used in float fishing are quite suitable, but sometimes their holding power is not enough, in this case I put two pieces on top and bottom. The use of such stoppers makes it easy to change the horizon in which the live bait will stand. The length of the leash is about one and a half meters, the diameter is 0.25 mm.

The question of what to make leashes from is often discussed among fishermen. My opinion is fluorocarbon. It has two advantages. First, it is less noticeable in the water, which is important when a predator has time to carefully examine everything. This is the fundamental difference between a staging and a jig, where everything happens at lightning speed. Secondly, fluorocarbon is more rigid and, therefore, there is less chance that the bait will get caught in the leash.

I usually equip the fish with a double hook No. 4 according to the international classification, hooking it under the back somewhere between the second and third rays of the fin, but when the fish is very passive, I usually switch to a single hook. As for the additional metal leash, as a rule, I still don’t use it. The fact is that its presence always reduces the number of bites. In addition, when the pike has such an opportunity, it swallows the bait very deeply, so that a regular leash 15–20 cm long may not be enough. As for cuts, they don’t happen that often. With some experience, it is usually possible to immediately get the fishing line “by the whisker”, and pike teeth are no longer scary. However, I usually place baits at depths of more than four meters, and here pike bites are less likely than pike perch.

ACTUALLY FISHING

Of the live bait, the undisputed leader is the gudgeon, but catching it in most reservoirs is problematic, so bleak and roach are left, the optimal size is 10–12 cm. However, if you place the bait at night, it is better to choose a larger live bait, 70–100 grams. At night, you have a better chance of catching a serious predator, and he normally prefers larger baitfish.

The optimal place for placing supplies is part of the irrigation system near the riverbed edge. In autumn, the best places are often located directly next to the edges. But here the weight of the load has to be increased so that the gear is not pulled into the riverbed by the wind.

It is impossible to say in advance at what depth a predator is currently holding, so I set up several stands and release live bait at different depths. Usually one at the bottom, but so that it does not touch it, the rest - every meter of the water column. In the presence of a thermocline, it is necessary to place all live bait only in the working range - above the thermocline boundary. It is sometimes worth letting live bait close to the surface even in the fall.

On warm days in the morning or evening, a horizon of 1-3 meters from the surface often works best, although the total depth can be more than ten meters. This is due to the fact that schools of bleak, the favorite prey of pike perch, rise here.

An indispensable condition for the operation of the supply is live fish, for this reason it is necessary to check the live bait quite often, usually after two to three hours. However, in summer, even if there is no thermocline, but live bait is at the bottom, this should be done more often, every hour and a half.

In a word, no matter how cool a spinner you are, a good old rod will still serve you well: it will help you quickly determine the horizon in which a predator is hunting, and even indicate the time of its feeding activity.

Rating: 2.77

How to make it yourself

The gear is quite simple, so each fisherman can make several deliveries at once. For the base or reel, it is recommended to take a 20 centimeter piece of rubber hose or plastic pipe, the length of the product is from 3 to 4 centimeters. At the next stage of work, it is necessary to wind a fishing line (about 7-8 meters) onto the reel, the cross-section of the thread is 3-5 millimeters. Next, install a sliding weight and a leash up to 1 meter long. At the final stage, a double or triple hook is tied. That's all, your supply is ready for use.

Photo 2. The delivery is ready for battle.

Do-it-yourself pike perch supplies

To make this tackle yourself, you need to take the following materials:

• A piece of hose made of rubber. Its length should be approximately 15 cm;
• A piece of fishing line , the diameter of which should be about 0.3-0.5 mm. It will represent the main element of the gear;
• Sliding type sinker , the mass of which should be about 40-60 grams;
• Stoppers or small pea-shaped weights;
• Tees or doubles , as well as a carbon leader. It is better not to use a metal leash in winter gear;
• A piece of thread made of nylon or thicker fishing line, due to which the supply will be attached to the corresponding support.

A small hole is punched in the rubber hose at one end; it should be located approximately three centimeters from the edge. The main fishing line and a nylon ring are threaded into it, through which the tackle will be connected to the spacer; it will be installed across the hole.

With the help of a ring, the tackle is fixed in place so that the fish that bites does not leave with it.

A small incision is made at the other end of the cut hose, the length of which should be about 2 cm. The end of the main fishing line will be pulled through it. When this work is done, a fishing line is wound around the rubber hose. Its length is selected depending on the depth of the reservoir where fishing is planned.

Usually about 15-20 meters of fishing line is enough.

A sinker is inserted into the main line and locked securely. A leash is attached to its end, the length of which should be approximately 30-40 cm. A hook is hung through the ring. The production of the supply is now complete.

All that remains is to put the bait on the hook and lower the tackle into the drilled hole, across which a strong stick is installed, which will fix the tackle and prevent it from slipping into the water. In principle, if the reservoir is located near the house, then you can disguise the gear and go into the warmth.

Fishing techniques, where to look for pike perch at different times of the year

The gear in question is used to catch pike perch most often at any time of the year. When using a sliding sinker, the predator does not feel its weight when attacking live bait. It is known that pike perch takes its prey from the bottom up; it is very careful and throws the bait at the slightest resistance. When using a sliding sinker, the predator will not feel resistance; it will swim a certain distance and turn the fry over in its mouth, swallowing the hook. That's when it's time to hook the fish.

The principle of operation of a sliding sinker is as follows. After throwing the tackle or lowering it into the hole in winter, the load pulls the tackle to the bottom, at the same time the live bait tries to move up. While the bait is moving, the weight still lies on the bottom, without limiting the movement of the fry. The weights used for delivery must be heavy enough. Their main task is to quickly deliver the bait to the bottom. Now let’s describe the habits of pike perch at different times of the year.

How to prepare the tackle

First, let's figure out how to properly prepare the girder for fishing. What needs to be taken into account to make the catch pleasing? The vent itself (mainly) consists of the following parts:

• Rack;
• Coil;
• Bite alarm;
• Equipment.

Everything is simple and clear, but the methods of girder installation vary. Let's consider 2 popular options.

For standing water

This method is suitable for either standing water or low-flow water. It is suitable for catching pike-perch on girders in both winter and summer. The installation itself is not difficult:

• The required amount of monofilament fishing line is prepared. Important: a thickness of 0.3 -0.35 mm is not a perch, so the fishing line must be strong. The length is determined simply - 5-10 meters more than the planned depth.
• A sliding sinker is installed (olive, cone weight about 6-8 grams). The weight of the sinker varies depending on the size of the fish - it should be able to hold the fish in place, but also give a certain freedom. Usually - 1/8 of the weight of the fry.
• Afterwards, a silicone stopper is installed - with the help of it you can adjust the length of the leash.
• And a hook or treble is tied, depending on the fisherman’s preference.

For clarity, it is better to see it once. In this form we demonstrate how to assemble a girder for pike perch.

For the current

Accordingly, during the current, the girders for pike perch will gather slightly differently:

• A large loop is made at the end of the main line.
• It needs to be cut in such a way that you get 2 ends - 30 and 70 cm, respectively.
• We attach a sinker to the short end (we select the weight depending on the strength of the current), and to the long, so-called leash, we attach a hook.
• In this case, bait should be baited through the mouth, because his behavior will be natural.

When to catch

It is best to catch pike perch at night. At this time, the fish in question is at a depth of 2 to 3 meters, it is hidden between underwater snags or stones. Disguised in such an ambush, the pike perch waits for prey. The predator is undemanding when it comes to its diet, but most often it hunts narrow species of fish. Usually its prey is minnows, bleaks, perch, and minnows.

Important! Pike perch lead a schooling lifestyle, so catching one of them indicates the proximity of other fish.

Most often, the described predators can be found in areas with turns in the current, on dumps or in places of artificial barriers.

in spring

In the spring, after spawning, pike perch actively feed in shallow water. Here they can spend the whole day, but such a habitat concerns only females. Male fish are guarding the spawning nest. From here they leave after the fry hatches from the eggs.

Two or three weeks after spawning, the females gain sufficient weight and begin to catch well. During this period, it is quite difficult to catch pike perch, as the fish disperse to different places. Grouping of predators into small flocks in pits occurs in the summer. Active pike perch bite is observed a month after spawning and it lasts only two, rarely three weeks.

In summer

With the onset of summer, when the sun begins to hit the eyes of the fish, the predators go into deep waters with a depth of 4 to 7 meters for the day; in the morning and evening they again appear in shallow water. During this period, they are attracted to flooded trees, snags and other shelters. It is in these places that you need to look for big trophies.

In some cases, predators can be found at shallow depths, up to 4 meters, and especially if the fish can hide from the midday sun in the shade of trees or behind boulders. In clean, deep lakes, large pike perch are especially careful; most of them are found at considerable depth.

in autumn

With the arrival of autumn, pike perch begins to lead a sedentary lifestyle. During this period, you can go through the day and not catch a single fish or end up with a rich catch. In general, fishing is unpredictable, but if you find a school of fish, a good catch will be guaranteed. In autumn, mostly females are found. This can be attributed to the fact that predators are actively feeding, preparing for the formation of eggs and further spring spawning. After the cold snap, pike perch continue to eat well, and by winter they gather in small groups.

in winter

The majority of pike perch can be caught on the first ice in winter. Bites of this fish in shallow waters can last up to a month. On deep lakes you can catch pike perch using a stand at the beginning and end of winter. The fish bite best at dusk or dawn at low pressure. A characteristic feature of winter fishing is the installation of girders on pike perch routes, places along which the predator moves in the winter and summer seasons.

Photo 3. Under the disk there is a tube with a cord.

Supply for pike perch in summer

With the arrival of summer heat and sunny days, bright light begins to cause some discomfort to the fish, so the pike perch goes to deep water, where the water thickness will be in the range of 4 to 7 meters.

In the morning or evening hours - before and after sunset, pike perch goes to shallow water, passing through the area of ​​flooded trees and other shelters. This is where the largest specimens of fish pass.

Sometimes it happens that a predatory fish stands at a relatively shallow depth - about 3 meters . This happens if the area of ​​the reservoir is located in the shade, for example, near trees or near stones. Large pike perch are well caught in summer in lakes; the fish there grow to very large sizes.

However, in such reservoirs it behaves as carefully as possible and prefers to live at great depths.

Catching pike perch using bait in winter

The key to achieving success is the correct choice of place in which winter stocking for pike perch is established, based on knowledge of the habits and understanding of the behavior of the fish at this time of year. Timing is also very important.

In winter, pike perch feeds in the early morning and late evening, coming out to hunt from deep holes in which it spends most of its time.

To install supplies, you need to choose areas with a hard sandy or rocky bottom near the pits.

For live bait, it is better to choose a small fish with a thin body; gudgeon or bleak are good choices. You can successfully use small perch, which are much easier to catch in winter.

This article will tell you about the best winter baits for perch.

Here we will talk about making foam rubber baits with your own hands at home.

Source: lovisam.net