Float rod equipment from A to Z

Rods for float fishing

Depending on what type of reservoir and under what conditions the fishing takes place, the angler uses different types of float rods. Fishing rods for float fishing are divided into 4 categories:

• flight feathers;
• Bolognese;
• match;
• plug-in

Flight feathers are the most common group, used for fishing in stagnant bodies of water or on rivers with moderate currents. The casting range when fishing with fly tackle is determined by the length of the rod, which can range from 3 to 12 m. Due to the limited casting range, fly rods are used to fish in small bodies of water or in places where the channel edge or hole is located in close proximity to the shore.

The Bolognese float rod is used for fishing on rivers with weak and medium currents. This tackle is equipped with a spinning reel and rings, which allows you to fish at some distance from the shore. The length of Bolognese fishing rods ranges from 4 to 8 meters.

Match float tackle is used for long-distance fishing. The match fishing rod is equipped with an inertia-free reel and a heavy float with its own weight, which allows you to cast the equipment 30–60 m from the shore. The length of fly rods rarely exceeds 6 m.

A plug rod for float fishing can be used in both standing and flowing reservoirs. It is more often used by sports fishermen, since it requires certain handling skills. Plug fishing rods are equipped with a rubber shock absorber located inside the working part of the rod, which is called the “whale”. The length of such fishing rods reaches 15 m.

Float rod equipment - Universal tackle

A fly fishing rod is the simplest, but by no means the most profitable option. Match tackle is a good option, but not for a beginner. Difficult and expensive. The only option left is the Bolognese fishing rod, and it is truly the most preferable.

However, if you need truly universal tackle, I advise you to equip the Bolognese rod with an inexpensive spinning reel for match or spinning fishing.

As a result, you will get a truly versatile tackle that can be used both for fishing in the coastal zone and for long-distance fishing using a sliding float. Well, now let’s dwell in detail on those points that need to be taken into account when choosing a fishing rod.

Necessary elements for float tackle

The presence of certain elements in the equipment depends on the type of float rod. The blind equipment of a float rod for fly fishing includes:

• connector;
• main line;
• float;
• set of weights;
• leash;
• hook.

The connector is used to attach the main line to the rod and can be made in various versions. The main equipment is concentrated on the main line, which includes a float and a set of sinkers. Floats for fly fishing can have a body of various shapes, equipped with a keel, antenna, and also a ring for passing the fishing line. Their load capacity can range from 0.1 to 10 g. A set of sinkers consists of lead pellets of various weights, which are necessary to load the float.

Connectors

A leash is a necessary element that protects the entire equipment from breaking if the hook gets caught. Its diameter is usually 0.02 less than the diameter of the main line. The hook is used to attach bait and ensure reliable hooking. Its size is selected taking into account the type and size of the nozzle.

The equipment of a Bolognese fishing rod differs from that used for fly fishing gear. The equipment of a float rod for fishing in currents consists of the following elements:

• rods with rings;
• inertia-free or inertial coil;
• main line;
• Bolognese float;
• olive sinkers;
• swivel;
• leash;
• hook.

The inertial reel is also suitable for float tackle

The Bologna rig includes a spinning reel of size 3000–3500, on the spool of which a monofilament line with a diameter of 0.15–0.18 mm is wound. It would be good if the reel had a large additional number of bearings, which would allow you to quickly reel out the line after a single hookup. The Bolognese float differs from the fly float in having a greater load capacity and a through hole for passing fishing line. The swivel is necessary to prevent the leash from twisting in the stream. The size of the hook for fishing with Bolognese tackle is usually slightly larger than that used for fishing in still water. This is due to the fact that fish in the current take the bait more boldly and resist more desperately.

Elements for equipping float tackle

The equipment of the plug tackle differs from the fly version by using thinner lines and light floats, which makes it possible to catch capricious fish. The match gear is characterized by the presence of an inertia-free reel and a heavy float, which has its own carrying capacity and ensures long-distance casting of the nozzle.

Equipment

For a fishing rod without a reel, you need to have several accessories in reserve - for different current strengths, fishing line thickness, fish habits and the nature of fishing. Usually, if a fisherman goes on a running fishing trip, where along the river he will encounter several different places, up to a dozen per day, he will need about five of them, no less. Especially if the body of water is unfamiliar. The float for line fishing should be teardrop-shaped - have a thickened part in the body at the bottom, and there should be a keel and antenna at the bottom. Such a float creates a support for the current and is well carried away by it, it is convenient to control it. It should be loaded up to the antenna itself. Pear-shaped floats work a little worse, as well as in the form of a reverse droplet. You can also take a couple of rigs with a spindle float - in case you have to fish in a backwater with no current at all. All floats must be placed right under the antenna, which should not be floating. In particularly strong currents, sometimes a reverse droplet helps, which allows the float not to be pulled completely under the water in the rapids. It is best to use balsa floats. It has minimal air resistance when casting, the tackle with it will “chatter” less - this is when eccentricity and the possibility of overlap are created when casting. Polyurethane floats are durable, but will only work well with a heavy load that will eliminate this phenomenon. For ultra-light small floats, you should try to use only balsa floats, although polyurethane ones are stronger and more reliable. They try to buy good floats from a well-known manufacturer in the store - this is usually a justified waste of money. The antenna must be light - yellow, light green, etc. It must be clearly visible in cloudy weather. It will be easy to make it visible in the bright sun in the glare of water - you just need to paint it black with a black alcohol marker, then it can be easily washed off. You can also try floats with a replaceable antenna. These are mainly needed for night fishing - you can use a firefly as a replacement antenna. The load is most often placed concentrated, and below it there is one, two or three additional supports. They usually fish from the bottom, and the equipment must go ahead of the float - this is always a prerequisite. By how many subs have fallen to the bottom, it is easy to control the depth of fishing, access to the shallows - this can be seen from the behavior of the float, how high it sticks out of the water. Also, feeding aids help when fishing in mid-water. Fishing with a chain of “rat tail” weights is used on riffles when fishing for barbel in Italy; this is classic Bolognese fishing in strong currents. Such a chain of weights creates a play of bait among the rocky bottom, and the barbel takes it willingly. In our conditions, playing along with the bait is carried out by holding the float, while it either rises from the bottom or falls, attracting fish. For this, one or two sub-pods are quite enough, but it is better to have at least three - in order to regulate the lowering speed, you just need to move two or three sub-pipes together along the line. A very good option is to use Cralusso flat floats. This float acts like a wing or kite in the water, allowing the bait to not wash up on the shore as much. This allows you to keep the tackle at a certain distance for a very long time. Usually, the fishing distance sooner or later becomes equal to the length of the rod; with the same float, the fishing line can stand at 45 degrees to the tip indefinitely, and the fishing distance increases. The best option would be a flat float like Bolo. The fishing line is used in different thicknesses - from 0.1 to 0.2 mm. Too thin is used on short rods when fishing in mid-water or bleak fishing. It is not suitable for fishing near the bottom, as it will quickly wear out due to abrasive particles in the current. Also, they are not used on long rods - sometimes problems arise with them when casting over the head in a swing, the hook can get caught in the grass, and a thin line will simply break, but a slightly thicker one will forgive the mistake. Thick fishing line is used when fishing in thickets and grass, so that it is possible to simply tear out the tackle along with the algae. And also when it is possible to bite a trophy specimen. Accordingly, the size of the float is mainly determined by the thickness of the fishing line, and only then by the strength of the current. The hook used is one that matches the bait used, the size and type of fish. When catching silver crucian carp in the current, even for small ones they set a large hook - a small one simply will not cut through its lip. If you are catching bream, you can use the smaller one - its lips are not too thick, and even a small one cuts right through them without problems. For roach, small perch, bleak, chub and ide, do not put too large ones either. Whether to use a leash or not also depends on the thickness of the fishing line. Usually the arguments in favor say that if the line breaks when hooking, catching a large fish, the float with sinkers may break, and all the equipment will be lost. However, the author is sure that this is not so. According to a strange law, a break almost always occurs right next to the hook, unless the sinkers also get wrapped around the snag. Replacing a hook when float fishing is a rare occurrence, so there is no point in installing a leash purely to save fishing time. It is necessary to use the thinnest line possible not only so that the fish does not see it near the nozzle, but also in order to lighten the tackle as a whole. Therefore, it is necessary that not only the leash have a minimum thickness, but also the main fishing line. However, sometimes a leash is still put on - usually when you need to create an additional “game” at the expense of the shepherds. They are placed purely on a leash, which is thin and plays better in the current, while the main line is thicker and more inert. The leash must be attached through a micro-swivel in a loop-to-loop manner.

Attaching the fishing line to the float rod

The reliability of the tackle, as well as the speed and convenience of replacing the equipment, depend on the method of attaching the fishing line. When assembling the fishing rod, the main fishing line can be attached via a connector or via a reel.

Attaching to a fly rod

Any fly rig must have a loop at the end, through which it will be attached to the tip of the rod. A connector is used to attach the equipment to a fly fishing rod with a float. There are three types of similar connectors:

• plastic design with lock;
• rope loop;
• a piece of rubber shock absorber.

To attach a fishing line to the tip of a fishing rod without rings, it is most convenient to use a commercial plastic connector. This element has a small clasp that closes after inserting a loop into it. There is a small hole in the connector for attaching to the tip of the fishing rod. The diameter of this hole must correspond to the diameter of the tip of the whip, so the connecting element should be selected when purchasing a fishing rod. A correctly selected connector should be pulled onto the tip of the whip with little effort. To securely fix the plastic element, the fisherman will have to use superglue.

When equipping a float rod with a blind rig, a connector made from a rope loop can be used. To make it you will need:

• take a piece of synthetic rope 5 cm long and 1–2 mm in diameter;
• take a braided cord with a diameter of 0.1–0.12 mm, which will be needed to secure the rope;
• fold the rope in half;
• wind the folded rope to the tip of the whip so that you get a loop with a diameter of 0.5 cm;
• saturate the winding with superglue.

Such a connector is easy to manufacture and will allow for quick replacement of equipment. This design uses a loop-to-loop fastening method.

The third type of connector is a piece of rubber shock absorber, which can be used as bottom or plug rubber. To make it, you will need a piece of elastic 7–10 cm long, one side of which is wound to the tip of the whip with a braided cord, and at the other end a loop is formed for attaching the fishing line. This connector increases the shock-absorbing properties of the rod, which allows you to use thinner fishing line and smaller hooks.

Attaching to a Bolognese fishing rod

An inertial reel attached to a Bolognese fishing rod.
In a Bolognese tackle, the equipment is attached not to the rod itself, but to the reel that is installed on it. Most Bolognese fishing rods are equipped with a special reel seat designed for installing the reel on the tackle. If the purchased model does not have a reel seat, then you can put the reel on the fishing rod in another way. To assemble a fishing rod and reel you will need:

• drop a little superglue on the part of the reel foot that will be adjacent to the rod;
• install the reel in the center of the butt so that its spool is in line with the first wiring ring;
• fix the coil for 1–2 minutes until the glue dries;
• attach the reel foot to the butt of the rod with a braided cord;
• saturate the winding with superglue.

The tackle can be used after the glue has completely dried. A self-tightening loop can be used to attach the main line to the reel spool.

Rigging a float rod - It's not that simple

Previously, everything was extremely simple: a fishing line was tied to the end of a wooden fishing rod, a float and weight were mounted on it, a hook was tied to the end, and that’s it - the tackle was ready for use.

This version of the float rod is called a fly rod, and is actively used by modern sports fishermen as the simplest option. The second name for this arrangement is a fishing rod with a blind rig.

Naturally, now few people use bamboo fishing rods. Modern fishermen have switched to fishing rods made of fiberglass and carbon fiber. But the general principle of the layout of the flywheel (blind) equipment remains the same.

The fly rod is an imperishable classic, which is used mainly for catching bleak, rudd, roach and crucian carp.

However, the blind equipment of a float fishing rod has many disadvantages, the main of which are the inability to adjust the length of the fishing line, and the labor-intensive process of replacing equipment in case of breaks, which, by the way, happen very often.

Much more practical are telescopic rods with rings and a reel (Bolognese fishing rod). In the classic version, the reel serves solely as storage for winding and winding fishing line, and does not participate in any way in the fishing process.

It is also not used during casting. In essence, the Bolognese fishing rod is a modernized version of the fly fishing tackle.

To catch large fish at long distances, so-called match rods are used. As a rule, they are made of carbon, have a composite structure, and have many rings on the blank.

In appearance, they look more like feeder fishing rods or spinning rods.

Match fishing rods are equipped with lightweight spinning reels, and sliding rigs are used.

The float slides along the line, and a special stopper limits its movement. By moving the stopper up or down, the angler changes the fishing depth.

Match rods with spinning reels allow you to cast rigs very far and catch cautious, large fish. The spinning reel is also involved in the fishing process.

For fishing at distances of more than 10 meters, plug rods with a length of 15-17 m are used.

They consist of several sections, which, while landing the fish, as it is dragged to the shore, are unfastened until the extreme segment is in the hands of the fisherman, to the end of which, through a special rubber shock absorber, a blind rig is attached.
The average plug rod costs about a thousand dollars, the specialization is very narrow, so this type of float tackle is of no interest to ordinary amateurs.

As you can see, everything is really not easy. So which option is the most versatile? What kind of fishing rod should you buy, and how to properly equip it so that you can catch different fish in a variety of conditions?

How to properly equip a float fishing rod with a float

The float is the main element in the float tackle, responsible not only for timely registration of bites, but also involved in delivering the bait to the fishing point. Its performance characteristics largely depend on the method of fastening the float.

Float selection

Professionals often prefer a float weighing up to 2 grams

The fly tackle is equipped with a small float made of balsa or other materials with a high degree of buoyancy. The carrying capacity of a float for a fishing rod with blind equipment rarely exceeds 8 g. This bite alarm consists of the following elements:

• bodies;
• keel;
• antennas;
• ring for passing fishing line.

For standing water, oblong-shaped floats are used. When fishing in the current, preference should be given to spherical signaling devices. In fly fishing, the float serves only as a bite alarm and does not take part in casting the equipment.

All Bolognese floats have a drop-shaped or spherical shape, more suitable for fishing with a float rod in moderate current conditions. Bolognese signaling devices differ from flywheel signaling devices in having a greater load capacity. In addition, in the Bolognese version, the line is passed not through a wire ring, but through a hole located in the body of the float, which avoids damage to the alarm during casting and vigorous hooking.

Attaching the float to the fishing line using cambrics

For match fishing, floats 20–40 cm long are used, which have their own weight and lower attachment point. This design gives the alarms good aerodynamics, which allows fishing at a distance of 40–60 m from the shore. The load capacity of match floats ranges from 2 to 25 g.

The plug-in equipment of a fishing rod for fishing in still water requires the use of light floats with a carrying capacity of no more than 1 g. For pole fishing in strong currents, flat floats are used that have excellent hydrodynamics and can withstand the directional flow of water. The load capacity of flat floats can vary from 3 to 15 g.

Attaching the float to the fishing line

The flywheel indicator is attached to the fishing line using 2-3 cambrics, which are first put on the main fishing line and then pulled onto the keel of the float. The plug and Bolognese versions are attached to the main line according to the same principle. Fastening through cambrics makes it possible to quickly change the working depth while fishing.

The match signaling device can have a stationary or sliding mount. In the stationary version, the float is attached using a special connector, which is a piece of wire with a diameter of 0.5–1 mm, with cambrics stretched over it. The signaling device is connected to the connector using a carabiner with a swivel. To assemble the sliding rig, the fisherman will need:

• tie a stop knot on the main monofilament thread;
• put a bead with a diameter of 2–3 mm on a monofilament thread;
• attach a swivel with a carabiner to the monofilament;
• attach the float to the carabiner.

With such equipment, the lower limiter, which will prevent the swivel from flying off, will be a sinker installed a meter from the hook. The working depth of fishing changes due to the movement of the stopper unit along the monofilament.

Float rod for live bait fishing

A live bait fishing rod is a fishing rod for catching predatory fish. The requirements for it are slightly different in comparison with a fishing rod for catching peaceful fish, for example, crucian carp.

The rod must be equipped with guides and a reel (inertial or non-inertial). It is advisable that the rod be made of durable composite materials. Many people use Soviet-style spinning rods for these purposes.

The main line (monofilament or braid) must be strong and have a cross-section greater than 0.25 mm. It is desirable that it be transparent, but this is not an axiom.

The float in this type of tackle is relatively heavy, weighing from 5 grams. Many fishermen install floats with a carrying capacity of 10 grams or more on such a fishing rod. Float requirements:

• thick, highly visible antenna
• massive body.

The shape and length of the keel depends on the body of water in which fishing is to be done, but it is not of decisive importance.

Several leashes (made from monofilament, braid, fluorocarbon or braid) can be mounted in such a tackle.

The hook for this fishing rod must be made of strong thin wire. The size of the hook should allow you to securely hold the bait fish attached to it. The hook for predatory fish is always a large hook.

Proper float loading

A properly loaded float allows you to register the most careful bites. To properly load the float, the fisherman needs to have a weighted set of weights and small pliers.

How to load a float on a pond

Loaded float with two pellets and a pad

Having a set of lead pellets with him, an angler can quickly equip a fishing rod right on the shore of a reservoir. To load the bite alarm you will need:

• fasten the sinker at the junction of the leash and the main fishing line;
• clamp the main part of the sinkers, whose mass is equal to 2/3 of the load-carrying capacity of the float, one meter above the feeder;
• the rest of the pellets are secured between the sub-frame and the main set of sinkers until only half of the antenna is visible above the water.

If you plan to fish with large baits that have a significant own mass, then the float can be slightly underloaded.

How to load a float at home

At home, a bite alarm is placed in a high container, with a piece of fishing line about 10 cm long attached to its keel. The fisherman sequentially clamps weights of varying weights on a piece of monofilament until the desired position of the float in the water is achieved.

Having loaded the alarm with half of the antenna, the fisherman removes the pellets and installs them on the working equipment. The density of water in a pond may differ from that at home, so you should always have at least 1-2 pellets with you to reload the float.

Leash attachment

It is impossible to assemble a fishing rod correctly if you do not think about such an element of equipment as a leash. This part is very important because it has direct contact with the fish during fishing.

What should a leash be like?

This element of the float rod equipment should be 0.02 mm thinner than the main fishing line, which will ensure the safety of the equipment when the hook is caught. The leash is knitted from high-quality monofilament with a diameter of 0.06–0.16 mm. The length of the leash for fishing in a still water body is from 12 to 30 cm. When fishing in a current, the length can increase to one and a half meters.

Leash with hook attached using a small swivel

When fishing, you must ensure that the leash does not twist. If a fisherman notices any damage to the leader line, the leader must be replaced immediately.

How to connect a leash to a fishing line

If fishing takes place on a lake or reservoir, in the complete absence of current, then the leash is connected to the main monofilament using the “loop to loop” method. When it comes to fishing in flowing waters, the leash should be attached to the main line using a small swivel, which will prevent it from twisting during fishing.

How to properly tie a hook to a fishing line

When installing a float rod, you should pay special attention to the selection and tying of the hook. The degree of realization of bites largely depends on this element of equipment.

Hook selection

When fishing with a worm, barley or corn, hooks of the classic shape No. 12–4 (according to the international classification) are used. To fish for maggots or caddis flies, use hooks No. 16–12. If the angler uses bloodworms as bait, then the hooks should be made of thin wire and correspond to the number 24–18. When fishing with dough or other soft baits, it is better to use hooks with a spring coil. A small spiral will reliably hold the soft bait during the fishing process.

How to knit

If the hook is tied correctly, the monofilament practically does not lose its breaking load at the knot. To properly attach the hook you need:

• turn the hook with the back side facing you;
• pass the end of the monofilament through the eye and attach it to the fore-end;
• point the end of the fishing line towards the eye;
• wrap the monofilament around the shank 5–6 times and pass its tip into the loop formed at the bend of the hook;
• moisten with saliva and tighten.

Wetting the assembly when tightening will prevent it from burning out. The tip remaining after tying must be cut off.