Choosing a fly fishing line

With a large selection of braided lines on sale, you need to know how to make the right choice for your upcoming fly fishing trip. There are many nuances, for example, the depth of fishing depends on the speed at which the bait sinks, because the adhesion of the braided line to the water is the basis of fly casting.

In addition, not every beginner knows that when casting in a ring, the bait should describe the trajectory as low as possible. It’s easy to make such a cast from a boat or wade, but when casting from the shore you have to kneel down.

What is it and what is it used for?

The cord behind the structure is woven or glued fibers into a braid . For additional protection, braid can be used, which increases the service life when fly fishing in salt water.

1. Most often used for jigging and twitching fishing.
2. Braided fishing line wins in terms of casting accuracy. The fisherman feels the bite.
3. The cord may be soft or hard.
4. Soft, pleasant to work with, but require attention.
5. Hard ones lose in range, but almost never get tangled, and if a beard has formed, it’s easy to untangle.

Cord structure

Behind the structure, the braided cord can be weaved like a stocking or like a pigtail , but it can also be without weaving: in this case, the fibers run parallel. Then they are connected by a shell or fusion.

When weaving jutes ( jute is a braid made from several lines . By the way, this type of binding is also done in thread. After weaving all the braids (jutes) they are woven together into one braided cord), there can be 4, 8, 10 or more of them in a braid. Moreover, jute itself contains an average of 45 fibers. The strength of the braid is affected by the diameter of the fiber itself. The fibers in jute can be impregnated with fastening compounds for rigidity, or they can be unimpregnated, which means that such a braid will be soft. Impregnation gives color to braided cord, although, for example, Hercu line is white because the impregnation does not have dyes. Please also take into account that the addition of dye reduces the mechanical properties of braided lines .

To increase rigidity and density, “sintering units” are also used, which come with a distance of one millimeter. This Fire line resembles a bamboo stem.

By the way, braids with “sintering units” are superior in strength to sheath cords.

With an increase in the number of jutes, the strength of the braid increases , but the price also increases due to the rise in price of the material and the weaving technology itself.

Jute, in braided line, can have different physical properties. For example, Cannelle consists of three different jutes. Thanks to this, the braid is abrasion-resistant and has a low coefficient of friction, but is also soft and holds strength even if several fibers are damaged. Cannelle and the similar Reel tress can be used without metal leads.

The cheapest cords are those in which the fibers are not intertwined and glued, but such cords are the most short-lived, because the glue comes off after several fishing trips, and the jutes begin to delaminate.

The structure of the braided cord with a sheath is not only protected from wear, but can also be fluorescent ; for this, the sheath is coated with special dyes. The shell itself can be Teflon (Spiderwire fusion), polyamide or cheap materials.

Cheap cords have one important drawback . They begin to become shaggy when the shell is damaged, which entails a decrease in casting distance, increases windage, and deteriorates strength. But on the other hand, the braided cords in the sheath glide evenly from the spool and do not get tangled.

There are also related technologies in the manufacture of braiding. For example, Fire Devil from Byron, is a braided and impregnated braid of polyamide jute in a sheath. If we look at similar cords, we also come across Kevlar ones, although most often on sale are braids with polyethylene jute fibers. When purchasing such cords, professionals ensure that they are made from PE-grade ultra-molecular polyethylene . PE is superior to other materials of this class in durability, softness and density.

The Japanese concern Gosen has developed the Tecmy technology; such a new material is polished during initial operation and over time takes on the appearance of a monofilament, so the shell does not tear.

Fly fishing line

09.15.2013 admin Leave a comment

Fly fishing cord is the main element of fly fishing equipment. And those who think that it must necessarily be wicker or, for example, only conical, are mistaken. The main point of the cord’s characteristics is its weight, since it, like spinners, affects the casting distance of a spinning rod. There are 12 classes of cords, the classes are determined by the weight of the front 10 (according to the English system) or 9.14 m. It is 10 yards that is the part of the cord involved. The most popular lines among fishermen are grades 5 - 8.

Fly fishing line is divided into three types: 1. Cylindrical - made with one diameter. It is used mainly by novice fishermen for fly fishing; it is simple and inexpensive. Marking letter L 2. Conical, or double conical. It is universal and the most popular for fly fishing, it is much better than the first. Marked as follows: simple - S, conical - ST, double conical - DT. 3. Torpedo-shaped, or with a large diameter at the front. Typically the front part is 4.2 m long. The rest is cylindrical and thinner. Designated WF. But today they have begun to produce cords with a front part length of up to 6-7 m. Such cords are expensive due to the complexity of manufacturing. But this does not prevent them from being popular; it is the best because of the ability to make long casts, even in the wind. Cords can also be floating F, sinking S, weakly floating I. Cord designation DT6F - stands for class 6 cord, double cone, floating.

The construction of high-quality fly fishing cords: the core, it is woven from fibers with a cross-section of 0.4-0.5 mm, coated in a material with low specific gravity, for example, porous polyvinyl chloride. The shell of sinking cords can be weighted with metal fillers or made of materials with a relatively high specific gravity, which makes the cord heavier and allows for faster sinking. A good fly line should have a smooth, abrasion-resistant surface and a certain amount of elasticity. These qualities quite significantly affect the casting distance and, consequently, the success of fishing.

For the purpose of good visibility, floating cords are produced in yellow, white and other light colors. Sinking lines are produced in dark colors. The fly line is connected to the undergrowth, the fly is attached to the undergrowth.

The undergrowth consists of pieces of ordinary fishing line of various diameters, located and secured from larger to smaller diameters to move to 0.20-0.15 mm. The very last section from 30 to 60 cm of the undergrowth is the leash.

The third element is a fishing line for extension. It is used in cases where the length of the cord itself is insufficient (for landing large fish or for long casting). To do this, a simple fishing line with a diameter of 0.3-0.5 mm and a length of 50-100 m is attached to the second end of the cord; it can also be wound on a reel. The extension line is connected to the cord using a needle, the leash and leader are fastened with a loop.

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Characteristics

Properties are determined by the following parameters:

• Material;
• Weaving type;
• Joining fibers in jute;
• Using impregnation;
• Density;
• Surface;
• Wear resistance;
• Diameter _ If the American markings and their translation into SI are clear, then with Japanese cords problems arise for beginners. The thread weight number (dtex) is indicated on the spool . For example, cord index 1 corresponds to 245 dtex. 245 dtex –2.45 g per 100 m . And the conversion of the diameter in the ratio 1:0.3, that is, the number 0.2 is indicated, means the diameter is 0.06 mm;
• Test;
• Color;
• Strength, that is, elongation (sometimes they simply write that it is close to zero, in truth, 2–7% ).
• What waters will the fishing be in (salt or fresh, tropics or northern latitudes). There is no need to worry too much when purchasing. We sell cords that correspond to the conditions of the region, but if you plan to fish outside, then it is advisable to take a closer look.

Classification of fly fishing lines by weight

There is a single standard for classifying braided fly fishing lines and that is AFTMA.

Following this standard, the weight in grains of the first 9 meters (30 feet) is indicated on the spool (Gran is a system of weight measurement in the USA and Great Britain). The classes of line and rod must be the same.

This standard includes:

• Color;
• Calculation for water type and climate;
• Casting distance (close or far);
• Classifies by buoyancy.

Question: Why do fly lines taper in length?

Very often fly fishermen ask why this happens and they are also often answered incorrectly. In fact, everything is very simple:

1. The casting distance depends on the taper of the braided line.
2. It makes it easier to control the accuracy of the bait falling into the water.

Cords based on purpose

• Universal - do not have their own designation.
• Presentation (DT, TT or WF) - fished with small flies of different types.
• Fished with nymphs with an indicator or loaded (nymph or indicator) - withstands a large load.
• Use a streamer (WF with a shortened head).
• Pike, bass (strong WF with shortened head). Used for long-distance casting of heavy and large baits.

Forms

There are several types of braided fishing line:

• Cylindrical (Level – L) – floats on the surface of the water.
• taper cord (DT) - goes with a cone at the ends and has a thickening in the middle. To extend the life of the line, fishermen turn it over. Mainly used for circular casting with a soft and silent landing of the bait on the water.
• Torpedo cord (Weight forward - WF). The leading edge thickens. Convenient for beginners in fly fishing on long casts, also popular with professionals. To make this cord heavier, lead or tungsten powder is added under the braid. WF has additional classes:
  WF Nymph - casts against the current using heavy nymphs.
• WF Bass Bug - used for fast retrieve of very large and heavy pike, barracuda, marlin flies.
• WF Steelhead and Salmon Taper - these lines are used only for ring casting.
• WF Spey Salmon - catch salmon.
• SH (shooting head) - a sinking line is used for long casts.
• ST (shooting taper) - a sinking line for circular casting of flies.
• A cord with a triangular profile at the front (triangle taper - TT) - the movement of such tackle is easy to adjust in any wiring. The cast is accurate, with the ability to adjust during the flight. Due to its similarity to a torpedo-shaped line, it is best used for long-distance fly casting, but ring casting (with a whip) can also be done without difficulty.

Density

Braided fishing line can be of several types of density, and therefore have different buoyancy.

• Floatihg Line - floating cord (F).
• Hover - located at the surface, only under the film of water (H).
• Intermediate - with neutral buoyancy (I). Such a cord is classified as sinking, but has zero buoyancy. Which is why it goes down the slowest.
• Floatihg/Sinking - the line has a sinking end and combined buoyancy (F/S).
• Sinking Line 1 (Sink 1) - slowly sinking line (S1).

Some tips for choosing cord density for different purposes:

• The sinking one is chosen based on the speed of immersion, because the depth of fishing depends on this.
• The sinking cord can be numbered S2 and S3.
• If you need a fast sinking one, then buy S4.
• S5 is already a super fast-sinking line.
• Well, S6 is an instantly sinking braid.
• Double markings are possible on the spool, for example, S5/S6, meaning the head body with a depth coefficient of S5, and the end with a coefficient of S6. This line is used in deep water and when fishing deep holes with strong currents.

When marking the cord, it is determined by the following indices:

1. the first two letters indicate the design of the cord,
2. the number shows the class,
3. the last letter is the buoyancy of the cord.

Here are some examples:

• DT6F – double-cone cord (DT), class 6, floating (F);
• WF7FS – torpedo-shaped (WF), class 7, floating with a sinking end (FS).
• Fly Line, L, 9F, 30 Iards - fly line (Fly Line), with a cylindrical braid (L), floating class 9 (9F), 30 yards (30 Iards) long, which in the metric system means 27 meters.

Fly line length

The length of the fishing line is 30-40 m. The conical part falls approximately 4-5 m, while the main part has a cylindrical shape. Depending on the length and thickness of the fishing line, its weight is 28-45 g. The cylindrical section is heavier.

There is also a kind of double-cone fishing line. As you can guess from the name, both ends are conical, and the middle is traditionally cylindrical. The thickness of the conical ends and the cylindrical middle is different. For example, the characteristics of fishing line No. 1 “0.65-1.02-0.65” indicate that the thickness of the middle part is 1.02 mm, and the thickness of the ends is 0.65 mm.

Also, the thickness and strength of braided fly fishing lines are often indicated in the form of letter designations. Thus, the standard characteristics for fishing line No. 1 are expressed in letter form as “NEN”. The greater the weight and strength of the line, the higher the number used for the designation.

Care and storage

Keep the cord clean . Look at the sticker to see what is on the reel and what the manufacturer recommends to clean the cord with. Basically, wipe with a foam or felt cloth moistened with special solutions or a regular soap solution. Do not use oils, fats , chemical detergents, sunblocks or insect repellent oils to care for the cord.

• If these substances get on the braid, it is necessary to rinse it in cold water.
• Don't practice your casts on grass.
• Do not leave gear in direct sunlight.
• Pause between casts to clean the braided line.
• It also does not like the cord in the summer heat or places near heating systems.
• Check your spinning rod rings for burrs.
• Do not wrap the cord around your fingers.
• Monitor the lifespan of your braided line. After all, the manufacturers themselves warn that 200-300 hours of fishing is the limit. The fatigue of the material is taking its toll.

Now a little about cord markings. They are marked with Latin letters (see Fig. 1, 2), for example DT6F, where:

• the first two letters indicate the design feature of the cord,
• the number indicates the class,
• and the last letter is the ability of the cord to float or sink.

Currently, cord manufacturers have produced a huge variety of their varieties and I cannot describe them all correctly, but I will try the basics. So:

• DT - Double tapered cord is sometimes called torpedo or even double torpedo, and is the granddaddy of all modern cords. The design has not undergone any major changes since the last century, only the material and manufacturing technology have changed. Morally outdated, although if you like a “non-aggressive” casting style and dry fly fishing, you can’t do without it. The main advantage is the complete symmetry of the design, when one end is frayed, the cord is unrolled at the other end and, please, you have an almost new cord.
• WF is a more modern cord. The difference from DT is that its thickness is not the same, the front part of the “torpedo” is 9-12 m long, in general, the same as that of the DT cord, and then comes the running (thinner part of the cord). This design allows you to make longer casts, “shooting” several meters of running after the “torpedo”.

As I already wrote, the last letter is the ability of the cord to sink or float.

• F - Floating cord.
• S - Sinking cord, by the way, they differ in sinking speed.
• INTERMEDIATE - an intermedial cord (also known as a suspender), usually just a very slowly sinking cord.
• F/S - cords appeared not so long ago; they are a floating cord with a sinking tip.

In addition to what is described above, the cords can have different tapers, different torpedo lengths, and so on. The manufacturer usually posts on its website all the information about its cord, such as: shape and length of the torpedo, immersion speed, etc.

And now a little about the rods. There is a marking on the form in the area of ​​the handle, in fact, in the same place as on the spinning rod. The markings of different manufacturers, of course, differ, but the rod length and weight class are necessarily indicated there. Also, the name, number of legs, and weight of the rod are usually written there.

For example: SB-965/4 9'6″/#5 line 3.30 oz

. this is the marking of the Cola-Salmon rod,

• SB-965 - brand name,
• number 4, separated by a fraction - the number of knees,
• Next comes the rod length 9’6″ – 9’6″,
• Through fraction #5 - recommended cord class
• the last 3.30 oz is the weight of the rod.

Many fishing rods in the budget category have double markings, such as #5-6 or #6-7. Here I will only say one thing - you have to try, but the general trend is that usually inexpensive fishing rods require heavier cords for correct operation, that is, for a rod marked #5-6, a class 6 cord is better suited.

Just like in spinning, the action of the rod is important in fly fishing, but unlike spinning, it mainly affects not the sensitivity of the tackle, but the casting. In today's fishing environment there is a tendency to buy fast rods. In my opinion, this is just a tribute to fashion. It is unlikely that a novice fly fisherman will be able to fully utilize the capabilities of a fast action because such a rod requires a filigree casting technique. For a beginner, a medium action rod is better suited, perhaps even closer to slow. Such rods forgive many mistakes. If you have already bought a fast rod, you can adjust the situation a little by setting the line to a class or even two higher, then you will make your rod perform like a slower one. It is very difficult to break a rod with a higher class line.

Modern carbon fiber fly fishing rods are characterized by high energy intensity. For example, my budget pole, marked #5-6, works quite correctly with 15 m of torpedo-shaped (double cone) sixth grade cord. And an experienced fly fisherman was working with me with my pole with a 25m cord fully extended!!! At the same time, I can’t say that the rod worked on the edge. I don’t know of any reliable information about any decent fishing rods breaking under the weight of the cord.

When overloaded, you will simply feel that the cord seems to be falling through, the rod bends, but the cord does not fly. This is a signal that the rod is working at its limit, watch your sensations and nothing will happen to your stick.

So how do you choose a line for your fishing rod? There is only one answer - “by scientific poking.” Initially, you need to focus on the factory markings of the rod; it would be a good idea to ask the salespeople in the store; sometimes they give good advice. The best way is to test the rod with different lines. You can do this by meeting fly fishing fans like you. Surely someone will have a cord that will fit the rod, and all you have to do is buy the same one in the store. And enjoy a well-functioning, balanced tackle.

Based on materials from the site “Chub on the Fly”

How to make a fly fishing line with your own hands

You can make a braided cord yourself. Here are two examples of homemade cords.

Option 1

• You will need 4 cords of 20 m each. Three of them are double cone and one is torpedo-shaped.
• To twist the cord with a foam rubber or felt cloth, use nylon fishing line No. 35.
• Cut pieces of 20 m, 20 m, 19 m, 18 m and 16 m. These sizes are for weaving double cone jutes. In the case of torpedo-shaped: 20 m, 19 m, 18 m 16 m and 15 m.
• Fold them in such a way that there are three edges at one end and three at the other. They should be positioned as in the picture below (approximately):
• The short ends are tied to the long ones.
• Secure it on a hook or driven nail. This is to make weaving easier.
• Next, weave it like a regular braid, but watch its tension.
• After weaving one braid, make three more exactly the same.
• Take the resulting 4 cords and weave them together.
• After weaving the entire cord, one end is secured to a hook and moistened along the entire length.
• The other end is hung with a load weighing several kilograms through the block and allowed to dry.
• When the cord is dry, it is impregnated with a mixture of paraffin, wax and technical petroleum jelly in proportions 3:3:1.

Option 2

The actions are similar, in that in the first option , only four segments are taken: 20 m, 18 m, 18 m, 16 m.

One jute is made from such pieces of fluorocarbon fishing line with a diameter of 0.1 mm. The next two are also made from similar pieces, but a copolymer line of the same diameter is already used. After that, a braid is made from the three resulting jutes.

There is no need to impregnate such a braid. Just moisten it with water and let it dry in a stretched state.

By the way, with this option you can weave three jutes from different monofilaments not only in structure, but also in color.

It’s difficult to call this video option number 3, and the cord here is not for fly fishing, but! It is worth noting his ingenuity and very interesting approach . Perhaps someone will take it into their arsenal.

Fishing technique

There are several important stages in fly fishing.

1. The most difficult moment when mastering fly fishing is casting a line with a fly. Watch a video on how to cast correctly. But it can only be mastered by persistent training under the supervision of an experienced fly fisherman.
2. The next important stage of fly fishing is placing the bait. Depending on the type of fly, the presence or absence of a current, the angler’s actions will differ significantly. In any case, the cord must be taut in order to hook the fish when it bites.
3. Landing fish in fly fishing has its own characteristics. Here you cannot force events, the fish must be tired, the strength of the current must be taken into account, and the line must not be tangled. You definitely need to take a landing net with you.

Correct casting in fly fishing on video - a series of detailed videos about correct casting of fly fishing.

Pike-perch on a jig - selection of baits and correct wiring.