Fly fishing for grayling: tackle, bait and technique

Fly fishing for grayling is one of the most promising ways to catch prey. You will need a light rod with a length of 2.5-3.5 m, the specific choice depends on the reservoir. A “dry” or “wet” fly is used as bait; the first does not sink in water, and the second tends to sink slowly. In each case, you should avoid cords that sink along their entire length. Fly fishing for grayling allows you to catch fish in reservoirs with any current intensity, ensures long-distance delivery of bait and allows you to successfully imitate live prey.

Features of fly fishing for grayling

Content

Grayling fishing with dry flies is done using seventh grade lines. Wet fly fishing flies also use floating lines, but with a sinking end. In small reservoirs with minimal current, grayling can also be caught using completely floating lines.

Fly fishermen are increasingly fishing for grayling using a spinning rod using a cone line with a length of <10 m. They perform best when fishing with “wet” flies in places with significant depth. When choosing a leash, a fishing line with a diameter of up to 0.2 mm is used. You need to choose a fishing line that suits the fishing conditions and the fisherman’s goals, usually 0.14-0.2 mm, but in conditions of limited visibility or when hunting for trophy grayling, the thickness can be slightly increased.

In fly fishing, “dry” baits are predominantly used, and the choice of flies is limited to small models with light weight and small hooks. If “wet” flies are used, choose heavier varieties.

Fish such as grayling are found in many countries around the world.

The fisherman must create the feeling that insects have simply fallen into the water; for this purpose, colors are selected that are characteristic of the insects in the region where grayling lives and the main menu of the fish. There are effective baits with bright colors, but they have to be determined experimentally. In practice, baits with predominant red or yellow colors on the bottom perform best. The choice of color depends on the quality of the water: in muddy waters they take bright flies, and in transparent ones - dull, dark colors.

What is a shock leader and what is it for?

Catching grayling in spring with a fly

In Western Siberia, the release of ice from rivers is accompanied by strong, sometimes catastrophic floods, especially in the conditions of a friendly spring, which ensures rapid melting of snow. The waters of small rivers and even small streams become turbulent, muddy streams, overcoming which, grayling makes its way to the very upper reaches to spawn (in large numbers - in the first days of May).

By mid-May the water drops noticeably and becomes a little clearer. This time can be called the “golden” week of catching large grayling.

Tackle

Having spawned first, large grayling individuals descend from the upper reaches to their summer habitats and actively feed - this is, firstly.

Secondly, the muddy water still “camouflages” the angler, and the grayling does not behave particularly carefully: when it notices the bait almost in front of its nose, it calmly grabs it, without seeing who is on the shore. These circumstances force us to be patient, holding the fly for quite a long time in the area where the grayling is supposed to stay, and they also determine the installation of the tackle and the presentation of the fly.

The simplest and most effective solution, which I quickly came to, is to use a small foam float with a rod (photo 1), at the ends of which there are slots for fishing line, making it easy to put the float on the fishing line and quickly adjust the length of the leash. The fishing line inserted into the slot is fixed with a piece of nipple rubber tube.

The second function of the rod is as a base for loading with a strip of lead wrapped around it. The weight is selected so that the float is about two-thirds in the water. The principle of choosing the size of the float depends on the “character” of the stream: the steeper it is, the higher the buoyancy of the float should be, otherwise it will often dive under the water in whirlpools, rapids and other places of sudden changes in flow, simulating a bite.

At the same time, however, the resistance of the float to the pull of the grayling that has grabbed the fly increases; it throws it faster, which reduces the time for the reaction by hooking to a bite. A compromise needs to be found here.

The main difference from a traditional float fishing rod is that only the float itself is loaded, while the fly has greater freedom of movement, the “radius” of which is determined by the length of the leader, depending on the fishing depth - an extremely variable parameter. Again, in conditions where grayling cannot see the float, you can increase its visibility to the angler by coloring the upper four symmetrical sectors of the float with a black waterproof marker 2-4. This contrasting color allows the float to be clearly seen in rapidly changing conditions of light reflected from the water surface (sun, shadow, ripples).

How and where to catch grayling with a fly

The essence of fishing with a float is to cast (or lower, or deliver with a float) the fly to the place where the grayling is supposed to stop and hold the float in this place for a minute or two. At this time, the fly, having a reserve length of the leash release (20, 30 cm or more), will move along an unpredictable trajectory until it passes at a distance noticeable to the grayling.

The main thing is to try to make sure that the float itself “spins” in this place, and the main fishing line is not tense most of the time: tighten - loosen, direct - loosen, and, when floating, release the fishing line on time. Only in this case, the grayling, having grabbed the fly and instantly turning back to the parking place, will have some free movement to turn around, and the angler will have time to hook.

The recommendations presented in some books about the need to keep the line taut were apparently copied from one author who has never caught grayling. Already from the experience of my first fishing trips, when, having read the “classics”, I tried to keep the line taut and received a lot of bites that I did not have time to respond to by hooking, I realized that everything had to be done exactly the opposite way (Fig. 2).

Position A1 – the fishing line is tense, position B1 – the fishing line is loosened. The arrow shows the approximate trajectory of the grayling, which, having grabbed the fly, the next moment turns around and returns to the shelter. If the line was tight, the fly in the vast majority of cases flies out of the mouth (position A2). If the line has been loosened, the fly remains in the mouth (position B2) - it’s time to hook. It happens that the grayling itself is spotted when it takes the entire free course. Grayling mooring sites (more precisely, the places where it bites) can also be described from the general perspective of the characteristics of the river flow.

Under the waterfall you can always find several lulls and small whirlpools in which the float will make circular movements, or slowly float 15–20 cm (or more) in any direction, and in the first case we will only have to “accompany” its movement spinning rod and, in the second, periodically return it to its original position.

Similar places where wiring is carried out in the same way can be found at the entrances of a fast jet into pools, at the weakening of the expanding jet at the end of the pool, at the border of the main jet with a slow or even reverse flow, and at turns. In shallow, fast areas, you need to explore the places behind the stones, where holes are formed in which there is one, but large, grayling. Interesting formations are what I call “balconies”. They meet on the sides of the main jet, which crashes into the rock before making a sharp turn.

Over time, the jet deepens the bottom, first in front of the rock, then towards the middle and closer to the beginning of the jet, resulting in a significant difference in the bottom from its beginning to the end. The flow, acquiring an ever greater slope, accelerates even more, and on the sides there are almost horizontal long “bathtubs”, sometimes fenced off with a small border, which are filled with water at the beginning of the stream. The flow in them goes in a circle, and with the help of a float you need to examine all the lulls of the “balcony” and all the circles, gradually expanding the “radius” of the float.

Often these formations serve as a refuge for several graylings. By the way, such balconies and other changes in the topography of streams and small rivers, even among rocks, occur quite quickly. In just twenty years of fishing in the same places, I observed the gradual draining of two such “balconies” as a result of a drop in level and an increase in the angle of the stream. A little later, when the water clears, you need to camouflage yourself. And that's the problem. After all, there is still no tall grass on the shore, and no leaves on the bushes. There is nowhere to hide, but the rivers and streams become shallow, and you can safely go into the water.

You can catch grayling around you, sometimes right under your feet. Obviously, grayling perceives someone who is in the water with less apprehension than someone who is on the shore. It can be assumed that the behavior of a living creature in water is more predictable for fish from the point of view of the ability to retreat in a dangerous direction of its movement. The places and methods of fishing are practically the same, but the time begins when grayling increasingly refuses worm-like baits and chooses small flies.

Preparing tackle for fly fishing for grayling

Fly fishing is made in different modifications; the first step is to decide on the appropriate type of tackle:

classical. Includes rod, line or cord, reel. This equipment requires correct casting, the establishment of bait play and a special technique for landing fish;
with a wire rod. This tackle requires the installation of a spinning reel and large rings; the reel drum must rotate with a slight movement. A main line with a diameter of 0.2-0.3 mm is used, to which a sinker is attached, which ensures long-distance casting of the tackle;
“torpedo”, also called “ship”. They are made of lightweight materials to which 1-2 baits are attached. A rigid rod is used, on which a spinning reel is installed. The main line has a diameter of 0.3-0.4 mm.

Fly fishing gear for beginners may seem too complicated, since you need to have basic skills in using a fishing rod, but after a few casts you can master the main features of the technique.

Fly fishing in the classic version is a tackle that consists of a rod, a special cord and a reel.
Let's consider what elements of the tackle are used:

Rod. Several classes are used, and as the numbers increase, the strength of the forms increases. For fish weighing 200 g, it is better to take a fishing rod of class 6-7, but its power is enough to catch fish weighing 4 kg. The preferred type of material is carbon fiber, bamboo or fiberglass to ensure the rod is flexible and durable.
Coil. The classic or multiplier model is used. A type of reel with an adjustable brake, which is equipped with a ratchet, is in demand among inexperienced fishermen. If a locking brake is used, the line must not be released during the jerk. It is better to take light reels with a drum capacity of about 60 m of 0.4 mm fishing line.
Cord. A fly fishing line is an expensive piece of equipment; its cost reaches the price of the rod itself. Due to the rapid wear of the material, the largest amount of money is spent on the cord. Active fishermen change the line 1-2 times a season. The class of fishing rod and fishing line must match. It is better to take a transparent cord.
Leash. Always used with a diameter smaller than the main cord. It is better for a novice fisherman to take a cone thread, 0.5 mm on one end, and 0.2 mm on the second. The strong side of the fishing line is connected to the main cord. The length of the leash depends on the fishing conditions and reaches 2.6 m.

Fly fishing with float

April 5, 2014 Yuran

The gear described below allows you to successfully catch any fish from almost any depth. These can be: barbel, salmon, brown trout, trout, grayling, asp, chub, perch, pike, etc. Of course, instead of artificial baits, you can use natural ones. But I advise you to pay attention to the fly.

Tips for fisherman: Fishing for grayling in small rivers in summer - Detailed review

Why is it still a fly? It's much easier to dig up worms. Buy or wash bloodworms. Catch grasshoppers or beetles. Collect caddisfly larvae or maggots. In the end, use live bait or the same “blacksmith”. However, very often a rather sneaky law comes into play: the fish bites on the bait that you have today, but you don’t have it. The presence of a box with imitations of all kinds of baits will not take up much space and will help out in unforeseen situations.

In recent years, artificial flies have gained an increasing number of adherents among domestic fishermen. And modern gear allows you to use this bait without the use of fly fishing attributes. What is an artificial fly anyway? You won't hear anything about this. Once in a fishing store I had to talk with one fisherman about the bad bite. For about 10 minutes he argued that fish don’t bite well on flies.

Having become interested in the “fly”, I found out that he was fishing with a plastic fly. Surely many people remember similar products made of plastic and foam rubber on the shelves of sports and fishing stores. But these “masterpieces” were produced for the sole purpose of “catching” the fisherman and had nothing in common with a real artificial fly.

Meanwhile, an artificial fly, as a bait, copies almost all the food available to the fish. And it is called a fly only because it primarily imitates insects at various stages of their development. In fact, modern artificial flies imitate fish fry, eggs, crustaceans, earthworms, leeches, frogs, and mice...

Carp fly fishing specialists create their own imitations. In addition, you should take into account a lot of fancy flies, which are designed to attract fish with their unusual appearance. In other words, an artificial fly is a general name for imitating almost everything that fish eat.

And it is paradoxical that many anglers consider the fly to be the prerogative of fly fishing only.

Wide possibilities.

When comparing an artificial fly with any type of spinning bait, the latter clearly lose in accurately copying the natural food of the fish. A “spinner” generally looks under the water like a fast-moving “something” of different sizes and different colors.

Oscillating spoons are already more similar to fish, but still their “game,” although attractive to many predators, is by no means flawless. Wobblers and silicone baits have somewhat taken the lead on the path to more realistic copying of the appearance and behavior of natural hunting objects of the main predators. But they all cannot be compared, either in appearance or in imitation of the game, which is most important, with artificial flies.

With flies, everything happens differently. The point is that fish do not develop a reflex of suspicion when they react to a fly. Most likely, an artificial fly, made by hand, even if its appearance resembles the previous one, will, in any case, play differently in the water. After all, this is not a product that came off the assembly line from one stamp.

We should not forget that for the largest number of fish, insects have always been the main and most delicious food. Even for the majority of “semi-predatory” fish such as trout, grayling, chub, ide, and many others, there are periods when their diet contains nothing but insects.

There is a misconception that fish feed on insects only when splashes are visually observed in the water. It should be borne in mind that insects floating on the surface or flying above water occupy less than 20% of the fish’s diet. The fish finds everything else in the water column or at the bottom.

We could continue listing the reasons that force anglers to turn their attention to artificial flies, but it’s time to move on directly to the gear and fishing options.

Floats

. It is worth noting that while in classic gear floats are used primarily as bite alarms, here they are used as a vehicle that delivers artificial bait to the fish. “Zagranitsa” offers a lot of floats that allow you to catch different fish both on the very surface of the water, and in its thickness, and even at the very bottom. Moreover, the models offered by sellers often differ only in name.

In order not to completely get confused in all the newfangled “sbirulins”, “bulldokhs” and others, I chose the “bombetta”, which has already gained popularity among familiar spinning anglers, and, starting from this example, I will try to compare the options for using artificial flies and choose the optimal ones for different fishing conditions.

Most of the main differences between Bombetta type floats generally come down almost exclusively to the specific gravity and density of the materials from which they are made. Depending strictly on the degree of density, they either remain on the water surface, or gradually sink, or quickly sink to the very bottom.

Floats with a density that significantly exceeds the density of water sink quite quickly. But unlike a heavy lead sinker, it continues to glide above the bottom, remaining virtually unnoticed. There is an important point here: the float does not at all prevent the fisherman from feeling this or that state of the bait - whether the fish takes it or not. Lead weights reduce this bite sensation.

By choosing a float model with a material density that is close to the density of water (or a little more), it is possible to very accurately determine at what depths the fish are located. Having completed the cast, we calculate the time the float immerses (just like with a sinking wobbler). If the first bites were noted after 5-6 seconds, then when performing subsequent casts, retrieving should begin only after a similar pause.

The length of the main leash will largely depend on the length of the rod and ranges from up to 2 m. And leashes with flies are used shorter from 10 to 60 cm.

After casting, make 4-5 turns with the reel. This action straightens the rig and turns the flies around. At the same time, we maintain the rod at an angle of approximately 45 degrees to the horizontal. This makes it much easier to feel the bite.

The fly models used for this kind of fishing are various types of wet flies: from various streamers to nymphs. Each specific type of fish requires an individual approach. Let's say our tackle is represented by a pair of nymphs and an end streamer. We throw the rig across the current, and straightening it, we carry it in an arc down the river. And if the fish does not react to the nymphs in any way, then when removing the gear from the water there is a good chance of provoking a streamer to attack the predator.

Published in the Flies section

Fly - spinning rod or telescope, or cut a willow rod on the spot, a fishing line with a float-feather and roll from behind the bushes, or go out onto the stream in boots and let it go with the flow.

Fly - spinning rod or telescope, or cut a willow rod on the spot, a fishing line with a float-feather and roll from behind the bushes, or go out onto the stream in boots and let it go with the flow.

Spinner - small spinners N0,1,2. The predominant colors are black, silver, white, dark copper. With a light spinner, casting further than 7-12 meters is not possible. Therefore, we approach the shore quietly and hiding behind the bushes. We make sure to fish all the whirlpools with a reverse current, zones with a reverse current along rapids, calm zones behind boulders, along bushes, etc. If there are islands of bushes or trees in the water, this is very good.

Tips for fisherman: How to properly tie a fly on grayling - What is the difference, pros and cons

Grayling is a powerful fish, it resists fiercely, sometimes you can’t hold it in your hand, it’s just a muscle. It stays on the riffles, next to the drains on the rapids. In Karelia, grayling is small up to 500 grams; in Kola, up to 1-1.5 kg were caught.

Combined tackle: float, spoon and parachute.

p.s. I’m talking about the local population who live in villages, not urban ones.

The last time I caught it was about 12 years ago. but I can do it “for show”

The fishing line, by the way, can be .15 - it will only fly further. But the thinner it is, the more often when fishing in a current with a rocky bottom you need to break off the final meter or two and retie the fastener - the fishing line in front of the spoon is killed very quickly on the stones.

If you want, call me, I’ll tell you about the fishing technique itself, otherwise I’m too lazy to write

And when you arrive, strike iron)))

3 days ago I returned from Kola, dark, nondescript flies are just right. Just like the dark pinwheels.

Modern anglers have a large number of options at their disposal when selecting gear. However, very few people understand how to understand this wide range.

Modern anglers have a large number of options at their disposal when selecting gear. However, very few people understand how to understand this wide range.

It is especially difficult for beginners in fishing to decide on suitable gear, since they still have no idea how and what to fish for this or that prey.

Often, when choosing the right gear, the most pressing issue is the selection of bait. There are a lot of options, for example, wobblers, spinners, flies and other options known to everyone.

Fishing with a fly with a float or using a spinning rod is a very interesting topic for beginners.

Professionals prefer fly fishing and it is truly more effective when you master the skill well. And for those who are just starting out, the front sight is considered the most suitable option.

In our article we will talk about fly fishing in winter and at any other time, as well as about the correct choice of this bait.

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This microfly was invented by the American Vincent Mariner , who described it in his 1950 book. Jassid looks simple, but it is clearly visible in the water, which is very convenient for the fisherman, and is highly catchable. You can always rely on this classic fly; in hopeless situations, it often helps out the angler.

Choosing a place and time for fly fishing for grayling

Grayling fishing begins in the spring, immediately after the water clears and the amount of water in the channel decreases to normal levels. By this period of time, spawning has already passed, the resting stage has ended and active biting has begun. The duration of the zhora ranges from 2-3 days to one week. Fly fishing for grayling in streams remains effective from May to October, but without successful tactics you still won’t be able to get a catch.

How to catch pike perch in winter using hooks?

Experienced fishermen claim that grayling begins to be caught in the spring, after the water clears and the river drops to the standard level

Active biting begins in the fall, when the predator tends to eat off and accumulate fat, consuming almost any food it comes across. In the autumn, there are few insects, and sinking flies acquire the greatest catchability. From experience, we can say that models like the halo perform better.

The best time to hunt for grayling is morning and evening fishing, when the fish swims closer to the shore and hides in snags or small depressions in search of prey. This predator loves clean water with plenty of oxygen.

In early spring, small grayling are caught in muddy and cool water not far from the shore; they prefer to move away from the strong current and feed on food washed up on the banks. Large specimens have not yet been found, so fishing is ineffective. As summer approaches, trophy individuals are caught in holes and ditches in conditions of minimal flow or standing water, but bordering the current, from where food is brought.

Flies, spoons and amphipods - what are grayling used to catch in Siberia?

Important! An artificial fly should imitate an insect as closely as possible in its image and color shades.

Not only to make a high-quality fly for grayling that accurately imitates any insect, you also need to guess the bait - color, size, body shape. Grayling is a rather capricious fish, and also has excellent eyesight, which does not allow it to “deceive” the fish and provoke it into biting. Black ant, fat bumblebee, ostrich feather and other models are the most successful when fishing in Siberia - read more about these flies for grayling.

In the summer, grayling is less active due to the rich food supply. In the warm season, the variety of insects is much wider than in the fall; moreover, the water, even in fast and mountain rivers, warms up much faster, which also affects the activity of grayling. In autumn, numerous hordes of insects cease their vital activity and it is increasingly rare to see hovering bugs and midges above the surface of the reservoir. Grayling becomes less capricious in its choice of food, which makes “life” easier for the fisherman.

The main types of flies that I recommend using in the fall are dark shades (gray, black, olive, burgundy, brown).

Light flies also work, but not as effectively as dark tones. This is most likely due to those types of worms and insects that continue their life activities in the fall.

The most successful fishing is considered to be using a sliding float tackle. At this time of year, fish often feed at the bottom, so the main baits can be: worms, amphipods, artificial baits with weights.

Grayling is a predatory fish. In addition to all kinds of insects, it feeds on the young of other fish.

When fishing for grayling, spinners use small rotating spoons from No. 0 to No. 2 . Large, trophy grayling are very often tempted by such baits, especially in the autumn. In Altai, for some reason, grayling almost completely ignores spinners. There are isolated cases of this predator being caught with iron. What is the reason for this is a mystery to local fishermen!

In other regions of Russia, on the Yenisei River in the Krasnoyarsk Territory, the Lena River in Yakutia, spinners are the main way to catch grayling. Therefore, for fishermen in these regions, iron baits will be the best choice, which have an advantage over artificial flies.

A similar question: what to prefer for catching brown trout - fly fishing gear or trolling gear?

How German and Danish fishermen answer it, you can find out more at the link fishing for trout in the Baltic Sea...

Choosing bait for fly fishing for grayling

Fish tend to pick up falling insects from the water surface all season long. They are successfully imitated by dry flies; the shape and color of the bait varies over a wide range. The most promising are flies that are similar to natural insects found in the area. It is better to select bait for the food supply of the reservoir. If one bait turns out to be ineffective, use another bait, for which you take at least 5 flies with you.

Throughout the season, grayling takes swimming insects well; most often it is caught using floating, dry flies

Wet flies are also quite promising; they no longer imitate insects, but small fish. This bait is more effective in rainy weather or cold weather, when there are no insects above the river.

Best fly fishing lures:

dry. Red Tag has universal application; it is often used to begin acquaintance with a body of water. Palmer Chartreuse often produces the best results in the evening as it hooks up easily and produces a consistent bite. Elk Hair Caddis is one of the most catchable flies for grayling. There is also the Brown Stimulator - this is a fly that resembles a grasshopper or similar insect;
emergers. The clear leader without competitors is the Klinkhammer Special. It is better to knit from floating materials;
nymphs The Czech nymph for catching grayling is extremely simple to manufacture and is used in the same way as a wire rod, if you do not take into account the float. Suitable for passive fishermen and shows relatively good results. Caddis Larva imitates a caddisfly, so it is well caught on all rivers. It is better to knit on hooks No. 8-16.

Reliable survival units

Tactics and techniques for fly fishing for grayling

Fly fishing for grayling on small rivers is most effective in summer and spring. For a novice fisherman, the difficulty is casting the tackle, since there is no float, and often there is no sinker. It will take a long time to master the technique, but you will be able to take your first steps on your first fishing trip. One of the casting techniques is a circular cast, and a technique is also used - under the angle of the fishing rod with a throw over the side.

Recommendations on fishing tactics for beginners:

The fisherman is first required to make a smooth cast and lower the bait. If you accurately hit the fish’s habitat, you should count on a sharp capture of the bait;
It is important to cast so that the fly touches the water before the line. When the line first falls, the fish may get scared and go to the depths;
the length of the fishing rod depends on the fishing conditions; in reservoirs on creeks and small rivers, a rod with a length of 2.3 m is used, and long versions (2.8 m) are used for long casts;
When fishing with “dry” flies, floating lines are used, and when fishing with “wet” flies, cone-shaped lines are used.

Originally posted 2018-07-18 09:38:04.

Little "wingman"

If this nymph alone does not bring the desired success, I resort to a little trick. I attach a piece of monofilament fishing line about 30 m long to the bend of the nymph’s hook, to the end of which I attach a second, smaller nymph. A nymph made from pheasant tail feathers, tied on a hook Ns 16, is well suited for this. In tandem with a large one, the small nymph sinks to depths that would be unattainable for it alone.

Both trout and grayling that have already been exposed to heavy nymphs are tempted by a lighter follower.

Where nymphs with a heavy head have long been known to fish, it is often only thanks to light, delicate models that the angler has a chance of catching. To serve such nymphs at depth, you again need an additional load: a pellet or a sinker of a certain shape. If you use a pellet, then only a round one, so that the leader does not twist when casting. I prefer to use a 2.70m long conical leader with a tip of 0.18mm in diameter. I tie a fluorocarbon leash to it with a length of 80 to 100 cm and a diameter of 0.15 mm, which allows the nymph to dive even faster. If the pond contains trout longer than 50 cm, you can use a thicker leash. When casting heavy nymphs, you should not choose the lightest rods. This should be a 5th or 6th grade rod. A light-colored floating WF (conical) line often makes it easier to recognize bites. Now there are various bite alarms specifically for fly fishing, which are simply attached to the cord. But sometimes such alarms become an obstacle when landing fish. Therefore, make sure that the bite alarm either passes through the guide rings or slides along the cord when it is selected. I pay a lot of attention to the buoyancy of the line, especially in poor lighting, because accurate bite recognition depends on it. I carefully rub the end of the fly line with grease so that it floats well, and I degrease the leash so that it sinks well. When the nymph is thrown upstream, you need to make sure that the line does not lie completely straight on the water. Otherwise, the nymph sinks too slowly. Make sure that the rod stops at the 11:00 o'clock position when casting. In this case, the nymph will go to depth, and will not drift just under the surface. Trained fly fishermen also practice parachute casting, in which the rod, after a swing, is returned back to the 12.00 o'clock position. The cord lays out in the form of a wavy line, which allows the nymph to quickly submerge. Do not fish a deep pool downstream; start not from the top, but always from the middle or end of the pool. If you hook a fish there, it won’t scare away everyone else when you land it. Feed the nymph from your shore with each cast a little further to gradually catch the entire pool.