Feeder: how to make a long cast correctly

Fishing line, braided cord, shock leader, backing. Continuing our consideration of the main factors and conditions affecting long-distance casting, I will move on to fishing line and braided cord. Probably the first logical question that arises is what is better to use for long-distance casting - a cord or a line? In answering, we will express the opinion of a number of athletes, which they formed during many years of fishing practice. It is easier to cast as far as possible with fishing line if the diameters of the cord and monofilament are close.

This happens for the following reasons:

the fishing line does not get wet and does not stick together on the spool like a cord;
at the moment of loading, the fishing line stretches, but does not lose its cylindrical shape (the cord “flattens” at the bend points and increases the friction area);
The braided cord has a rough structure and, after getting wet, “collects” small particles from the surface of the reservoir, creating an abrasive surface around itself.

But you should not radically exclude braided cord from your fishing arsenal, since it also has its advantages. For example: the cord has less residual memory compared to fishing line (this does not apply to cords with protective braiding); with a relatively small diameter it can withstand a large load, etc.

It is important to understand that to achieve long casting it is not enough to replace the spool or switch from fishing line to cord! It is necessary to take into account and at the same time observe a whole range of conditions and factors (the length and action of the rod, the shape of the spool, the weight of the casting equipment, etc.) in order to put together a “harmonious” and balanced tackle for performing technically competent casting.

Many interesting nuances about fishing line and cord can be learned if you look at long-distance casting through the prism of dry calculations. For example, when casting, the fishing line (cord) is subject to centrifugal force and the acceleration force of the equipment (the latter acts not only on the fishing line, but also on the rod), and the total value of these forces is almost 50 times greater than the cast weight. We will not give formulas and bore you with calculations, because today’s fishermen are not very keen to delve into the essence of the phenomenon and the processes taking place. What’s more important to him is “specific advice” and “what’s it called” so he can ask in a store or show off his knowledge of “unusual” words in a conversation with other fishermen. And if something didn’t work out after the “specific advice,” then the person who advised it is absolutely clueless about fishing! Therefore, without resorting to a “school physics course,” we can make a brief summary. To ensure the longest cast, it is necessary to use the thinnest diameters of cords and fishing lines and, when winding them, strive to fill the spool capacity to a level 2-3 mm below the height of the side.

But still, let’s try to use the above rule in practice and do a little math!

Based on the weight of the feeder 120 grams, we determine the optimal breaking load for the cord or fishing line. To do this, we multiply the weight of the feeder by the load factor created by the centrifugal force and the acceleration force of the equipment, which is equal to 50.

120 * 50 = 6000 (gr.)

For reliability, add another 1 kg to the obtained value of the breaking load of the fishing line (to be sure that the knots will withstand the cast). So, a line with a breaking load of 7 kg will have a diameter of approximately 0.3 mm, and a braided cord with such a breaking load will have a diameter of approximately 0.12 mm. Obviously, many fishermen will immediately give preference to the cord, since it is thinner and, logically, will “fly” further. But let's not write off the fishing line - at a similar diameter it will definitely surpass the cord! A shock leader (shock-leader can be translated from English as “shock-tested conductor”) made from a fishing line with a diameter of 0.3 mm can compensate for the low breaking load of the fishing line. It will take the load during casting. The length of the shock leader should provide 5-6 turns on the spool, and the line should hang from the last guide ring to the reel. Simply put, match two rod lengths. As you can see, a small “trick” with a piece of fishing line at the end gives an additional bonus to the flight range of the equipment and the ability to use the main fishing line of a smaller diameter (without fear of shooting off the feeder).

The indignation of braided fans and a burning desire to argue are natural. Therefore, it is worth recalling the advantages that fishing line provides (except for casting range) when fishing:

relative invisibility against the background of the bottom and in the water column, compared to the cord;
increased wear resistance and the ability to fish on an “aggressive” bottom (strewn with shells, gravel);
the ability to stretch and dampen the jerks of fish when playing.

Often discussing the advantages of fishing line and cord, fans of the latter use the only argument - at a long distance the fishing line does not show a bite. When you start to understand why, statements are made about “extensibility and

windage", but let's understand the essence of the feeder bite. A bite is a nod (shaking) of the tip due to the fish pulling the hook. The bite will be visible provided that the feeder tip is cocked and the fishing line is as tight as possible. If the current acts on this tension, the tension will not weaken. The quivertip will work like a spring - bend or unbend, but hold the line under tension. Consequently, nothing will change radically and the noticeability of the bite will be visible, provided that the feeder tip and the weight of the feeder are selected correctly. Now about another argument of the “experienced” - the large windage of the fishing line will not allow you to hook. This statement will be true for float fishing - an arc of fishing line floating on the surface, between the float and the tip of the rod, must be selected with a large-amplitude jerk. That’s right, this will also happen for the donkey, where a clothespin or a bell dangles on a slack fishing line! What to choose from the feeder tackle if the line is constantly stretched? And finally, gentlemen, debaters, who can tell me the stretch coefficient of modern fishing lines? How long have you been interested in this indicator in the catalogs of monofilament fishing line manufacturers, and not in Internet articles many years ago?

The next thing I want to mention is backing (backing – translated from English as “support” or “substrate”). “Substrate” is an element of equipment that allows you to compensate for the small diameter of the spool. The figure (see part 1) shows a diagram of winding fishing line onto a spool using backing and a shock leader. It is clear that with the help of such a solution, a classic spool can be made “long-range” by winding up fishing line, cord, sewing threads, or, at worst, insulating tape. The whole problem is in the winding itself, since very often many people try to guess the required backing length and, replacing a simple mathematical calculation with the “scientific poking method”. They're freaking out, but they're swinging the line back and forth!

I will give an example of calculation for the backing length based on the length (unwinding) of the main line and a specific spool (see table).

For backing and shock leader we use a line with a diameter of 0.30 mm, and for the main line with a diameter of 0.15 mm (capacity on spools 100 m and 200 m). Considering that we won’t have to cast further than 100 meters, the unwinding of the main line will correspond to this length. We calculate - from the total capacity of the main line spool we subtract the length of the necessary unwinding of the main line:

200m – 100m = 100m.

Since the remainder of the spool will be filled with 0.30 mm fishing line, it is necessary to calculate the ratio of the diameters, which will allow you to accurately determine the required length of the “substrate”. To calculate the diameter ratio coefficient, divide the capacity of the spool for fishing line 0.30 mm by the capacity of the spool for fishing line with a diameter of 0.15:

100m / 200m = 0.5.

We calculate the length of the “substrate” by multiplying the remaining line by the resulting diameter ratio:

100m * 0.5 =50m.

Solution: for a design spool you will need a backing with a diameter of 0.30 mm and a length of 50 m (the length of the shock leader is usually subtracted from the length of the backing) when unwinding 100 m of the main line with a diameter of 0.15 mm.

How to cast far with a feeder? Is it possible to fish comfortably at distances of 70-80m?

For many feeder lovers, throwing a feeder more than 60m is a problem.
Why is that? Why are some anglers able to throw gear over long distances and fish comfortably with it, while others are not? Of course, it is not at all necessary to know how to cast a feeder correctly and be able to do it. Most anglers don't even think about it, they just don't need it. For many, fishing is a pleasure, a holiday with barbecue. But for those who want to fish most effectively, for example, to participate in competitions, knowing how to make a long cast with a feeder is simply necessary.

After all, the fish often stands at a long distance. And in order to catch it you need, firstly, to have the necessary gear and secondly, to be able to use it. We’ll look at how to make long-distance casting with a feeder in this article.

As the casting distance increases, the accuracy of the casts and accuracy decreases. This must be taken into account especially during the development of the feeder. It is often better to cast more accurately and catch closer than to strive to cast as far as possible, but at the same time lose in the effectiveness of feeding.

The influence of guide rings on casting distance

It seems less obvious, but the guide rings, namely their location, diameter and quantity, are also of no small importance when making long- and ultra-long-range casts with increased accuracy. First of all, the role is played by the wear resistance and quality of the throughput rings - in other words, their ability to resist the deforming effects of friction of a fishing line or braided cord passing through them, without being cut or losing their throughput properties from the accompanying heating. In particular, one of the main problems due to overheating may be subsequent peeling and popping out of the internal inserts. In addition to this, the pass ring inserts of budget feeders are often unsuitable for use in combination with braided cords.

The best in terms of price and quality ratio today are considered to be inserts made of aluminum oxide, porcelain and titanium nitride, as well as metal ceramics coated with silicon carbide. The most popular manufacturer is Fuji.

In addition to the inserts, the casting distance is also affected by the diameter of the guide rings. Increasing it allows you to significantly reduce friction when casting - and, accordingly, the loss of speed when making long casts.

Today, the new trend in the design of guide rings for spinning rods is triangular rings, which, due to their design features, can contact the fishing line only at no more than three points. This significantly reduces friction and helps increase casting distance. It is quite possible that feeder rods will soon acquire such a tool.

How to learn to cast a feeder far - tips from Egor Morozov

Sports fisherman Egor Morozov in his video gives several tips for casting feeder equipment over long distances.

The feeder rod should be inexpensive. Often the fear of breaking an expensive feeder “bought to last” does not allow you to make a confident swing and throw the tackle far.
The handle of the feeder should be long and suitable for your height. A short handle does not allow you to correctly grasp the feeder with your right hand (for a right-handed person) and make a shoulder cast.
The first ring from the coil should be as large as possible. If you compare the first ring of a short feeder - picker and a 3.9m feeder, you will immediately notice the difference. Feeders of the same height also have such differences in ring diameter.
The feeder structure for long-distance casting should be average. A soft rod will fail when casting, while a hard rod will require great physical effort. Such rods will not allow you to disperse the casting rig well.
We have already considered which feeder reel to buy more than once. For long casts, the spool size should be 5-6 thousand. Such a reel will be a little heavy, but this is the size that gives the necessary meters for casting the feeder far.
The cord (braid) should be minimal in diameter. A cord diameter of 0.1-0.12mm in combination with a shock leader made of 0.18-0.23mm fishing line is perfect for long casting. It is better to tie the shock leader to the feeder with an “Albright” knot.
A feeder with an external load of the “bullet” or “rocket” type flies the farthest, so it is easier to throw it. The weight of the feeder should be from 50-60g. The basket of the feeder worsens its flight characteristics - it sails when casting. Therefore, the smaller the feeder basket (feed container), the further it will fly.

On a feeder with an external load (bullet), the fastening must be made of fishing line. The side mount on the eye makes the feeder “wobble” during flight, reducing the casting distance.

The overhang of the rig before casting should be 1-1.5m.
The movement of the rod when casting should go from smooth to maximum, reaching the apogee of acceleration at the extreme, last point.

Rubber

To some extent, the use of an elastic band (either plug-in or regular rubber band) solves the problem. With its help, a loop is tied through which the fishing line passes. This loop of elastic is wound with one edge under the clip.

During casting, the distance is fixed (although it must be admitted that the fixation is not ideal, the line slowly “creeps”), and when fishing for large fish, you can, with one deft movement, pull the elastic band out from under the clip, thereby giving free play to the cord or line.

Read: Long cast feeder

Having tried all of the above methods for fixing the distance, I finally returned to the good old clip. The first thing I did was inspect the spools on all my reels for burrs (I was lucky, the surface of the mounting clip was perfect). Since I don’t catch carp or large carp, I haven’t encountered any cliffs due to reeling to the clip. And all kinds of river linen, even quite large ones, can be obtained without problems.

Tips: “How to cast far with a feeder” from Yuri Lisovsky

A few more tips on long-distance casting from feeder fishing master Yuri Lisovsky.

Feeder for long casting

The feeder rod for long-distance casts should be suitable: from 3.9 to 4.5 m long and 100-120 gr. For example, in this video, Yuri throws tackle over a long distance with Tournament Feeder 100 (3.9m), Feeder Concept Silver Water 120 (3.9m), Tournament Feeder 130 (4.2m).
The second important role for long casting is played by reels. For fishing at long and ultra-long distances, reels that are non-standard for feeder fishing are used. “Big heads” are reels with large spools, more intended for carp fishing and sea fishing. Spool size 4000-5000, for example Shimano Ultegra CI4.

Fishing at long and ultra-long ranges requires not only physical, but also financial costs. Feeders of suitable length, reliable reels with large spools and high-quality thin braid will require some investment.

For good casting, the braid should have a diameter of 0.12mm. It is clear that such a braid requires a shock leader for the feeder, 8 m long. It can be knitted from braid (0.16mm) or fishing line 0.18-0.22mm.
A suitable form of feeder is a bullet, a rocket. They have a forward load and minimal windage during flight. It is very difficult to throw feeders of other shapes over long distances. Therefore, when fishing on distant horizons, the starting feeding with a feeder and fishing takes place on the same feeders.

In addition to the correct shape, the feeder must also be properly filled with bait. Bait may stick out from a full feeder, which impairs its aerodynamic properties. Therefore, before casting, you need to press the feeder with bait by hand so that it is smooth.

To summarize the above, we can say that:

Fishing at distances over 60 meters is quite possible. You just need to choose a “long-range” feeder kit: a long rod (3.9-4.2m), a large reel, a bullet feeder and a thin 0.6 cord in Japan. And then you can cast far with a feeder even with extensive experience in feeder fishing.

Long feeder cast

Feeder fishing is very diverse, each fishing requires new skills from the angler and gives new knowledge. If the fish is caught at a comfortable, familiar distance, that’s good. Without straining too much, you get pleasure from fishing. But this doesn't always happen. Sometimes, for various reasons, the fish moves a respectful distance from the shore. In such a situation, most likely, you will have to work hard to achieve results and survey a long distance, because this is almost the only way to catch a decent fish.

At the last competition of the 2014 season (Rusfishing Cup), in the second round, the fish at the main working distances were very sluggish and did not respond to the bait. During the tour I had to look for the place where she lives. The point found at a distance of 68 m brought me enough fish to take third place in the zone and keep me and the team among the medalists. Second place in the team competition and third place in the individual competition in the final competition report was confirmation of this. If I continued fishing at the same distance, I could expect, at best, to hit the top ten.

Long distance for me starts at 40-45 m. Of course, fishing at such a distance is not easy. After all, you often have to use rods of the “heavy” or “medium-heavy” class, and they are heavier than traditional “mediums”, and to accurately send a heavy feeder to the coveted 60 m is not an easy task. This kind of fishing has some technical nuances: the requirements for casting accuracy increase, in addition, there are equipment features designed to make life easier for the fisherman. With proper preparation, long-distance fishing is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.

First we need to understand why we need to fish at a long distance and what do we want to find? First of all, these are channel dumps, holes and any areas with increased depth. This is where fish can hide. If a sandbank or shallow reach is discovered at a long distance, it most likely makes no sense to consider it as promising for obtaining a good catch. And where the depth remains unchanged and you can find a strip of shells or a scattering of stones against the background of silt, it’s worth stopping. Any anomaly against the general background is interesting as a promising point. How to prepare for long-distance fishing and what are the features of the equipment?

Read: Catching river crucian carp on a feeder

The rod is the main part of the equipment, because, on the one hand, casting and fishing depend on it, and on the other, the comfort of fishing. Of course, in each specific case you want to choose a lighter rod. Everyone has their own understanding of comfortable fishing, but a certain balance between the conditions and the choice of fishing rod is important. Let’s say it is unwise to fish with a heavy “river” rod in a weak current, where you can get by with a longer “medium” class rod. At the same time, you should not overexert such a rod by force casting in a place where you need a rod of serious testing, capable of almost jokingly coping with the task.

I have determined for myself the limit for a “medium” rod: a 40 g feeder when casting at 55-60 m. In all cases when you have to use heavier feeders and cast further, you should choose a “medium-heavy” or “heavy” class rod with a length of 4 m, with dough 100 g or more. If you need to “punch through” a strong wind, investing in every cast, it is better to take a more powerful rod.

The feeder construction for long casting, in my opinion, should be faster to ensure better accuracy. But this is not an axiom; there are different fishing conditions and different preferences.

I had to use different rods for long-distance fishing. For example, with a “medium” rod Shakespeare Mach 3 12.6 feet (3.8 m) with a test weight of up to 90 g, when installing the second hardest tip, it is possible to fish at a distance of up to 50 m. A “heavy” feeder from the same manufacturer is 13 feet long ( 4 m) allows you to confidently fish at a distance of 60-65 m. But the “medium-heavy” feeder Matrix Horizon 4.00 (test up to 100 g) makes it possible to cast equipment at 75-80 m and successfully fish there.

The cast is supposed to be long-distance, the line should come off with minimal resistance, so special attention should be paid to the quality of laying the cord on the spool.

Read: Swingtip

You will also have to reel in the equipment from afar, and, as a rule, the feeder provides strong resistance, so it is better to use a larger reel and with a decent margin of safety. In addition, a large reel will balance a long, heavy rod and make fishing more comfortable. For the “medium” class I use reels of size 4000 according to the Shimano classification, and for “heavy” - 5000 or more.

Often, in such conditions, the load on the reel is greater, and consequently, the requirements for the strength of its mechanism increase. In these conditions, reels with a front clutch are preferable. They are somewhat stronger than reels with a rear clutch.

I use both front and rear drag reels. Among rear-friction reels, I would highlight Shimano reels of size 4000 such as Twin Power, Super, Exage, Biomaster.

Among the front-friction ones, the Matrix Ultron 5000, Matrix Super Feeder 5500 and the massive Matrix Horizon Feeder, capable of reeling out almost 1 m of fishing line in one turn of the handle, performed well.

When fishing at long distances, the sensitivity of monofilament is not enough, so we choose a braided cord with a diameter of 0.1 -0.12 mm as the basis.

Since casting is power-based and puts a lot of stress on the rod, we equip the cord with a shock leader made of monofilament with a diameter of 0.25-0.28 mm, depending on the weight of the feeder. It has almost no effect on sensitivity, but is able to prevent shooting of the equipment and save your finger from being cut on the thin “braid” if it slips.

The length of the shock leader should be approximately twice the length of the rod. It is tied to the main cord using one of several special knots. To tie a braided line with a monofilament shock leader, I prefer the Albright knot, which is easy to tie and passes well even through small tip rings when casting.

Every time you go fishing, the question arises, which feeder to choose for the given conditions? When fishing at a distance of more than 50 m, you will probably have to forget about using plastic feeders. Due to poor aerodynamics they... Most likely, they will not reach the intended point, and if they do, the accuracy of the cast is not guaranteed.

Read: Catching spring carp on donka

Compact metal cages are another matter. Although they are less capacious, there is no choice, because accuracy is very important in feeder fishing. Bullet feeders are best suited for long-distance casting: thanks to the shape and position of the sinker, their flight characteristics are beyond praise. However, a significant drawback of these feeders is their poor ascent when reeling in. Consequently, in “strong” places their use will be difficult due to numerous hooks and losses of equipment, leashes and fish.

Feeders that meet our requirements are produced by many manufacturers of fishing products. However, I would like to mention the cage feeders from Matrix and Browning, and the bullet feeders from Matrix and Preston. Perhaps these are the best representatives of this class of feeders with excellent flight qualities.

Some practical tips

• If you feel that you are a little short of the target point, do not be lazy to stand up, this will give a significant increase in casting distance and increase accuracy. In such a situation, using a more compact feeder will also help.

• A large arc of fishing line is created in the current, which is larger the further away the fishing point is. When fishing in the current, you need to hook quite sweepingly, with a decent amplitude, in order to select this arc. Directing the hook up or against the flow will provide a better hook.

• At a long distance you should not relax, even if the fish there is active, there may be breaks in the bite. A set of dips to give the bait additional attractiveness will not be superfluous. Don’t forget about a supply of leashes of different lengths and thicknesses with different hooks. All this may come in handy.

Taking all this into account, you can move on to the practical development of feeder fishing at a long distance, which has a special appeal, because fish in the distance feel more at ease, approach the bait more actively and take the bait more boldly. The bites, as a rule, are distinct, since there is nothing for her to fear there. A trophy obtained with such difficulty is especially valuable, because literally a lot of work had to be done to catch it.

Fishing on a feeder

Feeder length and test

The longer the feeder rod, the further the cast, accordingly, everything is simple here, and to figure it out, you just need to remember the physics lessons in which you studied shoulder forces and the force applied to it. So if you need the longest cast, take feeders about four meters long.

Now regarding the test range of the rod (test), which also plays a role in casting distance. Based on the observations of fishermen, the following fact was noted.

The longest cast with a rod is guaranteed to be successful if the applied weight of the casting load, most often the feeder, is approximately 75% of the maximum value of the rod's test range. For example, if you have a blank with 60-100 grams of dough, then the optimal weight for the longest cast is 75 grams.

How the length of the rod and its test affect casting distance

Having stated that you can cast a feeder feeder further with a long rod than with a short rod, I’m unlikely to surprise anyone. From school, everyone has an idea of a lever and the relationship between the magnitude of the applied force and the length (arm) of this same lever.

The optimal long rod for casting equipment at a distance of up to 70-80 meters, for the average adult, will be approximately 3 meters long.

The longer the rod is, the less physical effort the fisherman will have to put in to cast the feeder as far as possible.

In addition to the length of the rod, there is another parameter on which the casting distance depends - this is the test range of the blank.

Based on the experience of athletes, which they are always ready to share, but are not always ready to reveal key subtleties (who wants to reveal their little tricks that give an advantage over their opponent?), the following pattern has been noticed.

The longest cast is guaranteed if the weight of the feeder (weight) used corresponds to approximately 75% of the stated maximum value of the test range.

For example, if you are the owner of a Medium feeder class blank with a dough of 60-100 g, then the optimal weight of the feeder for long casts will be 75 g.

The above is not categorical and I do not insist that it is impossible to throw a feeder of 60 g or 100 g to the required distance! But if you make 10 casts with the weight of the feeders prescribed by the test and the feeder with the optimal weight (using the same force when performing the throw), then the number of successful long-distance casts of the latter will be greater.

Rod build

The action of a fishing rod is an indicator of how it bends under load. A fast action rod bends 1/3 of its length, while a slow action rod bends almost completely. Due to excessive flexibility at the first stage of casting, the rod bends strongly, and its end lags behind the butt part at the moment of casting.

It follows that when the arm movement stops, the rod blank continues to straighten to release the feeder at the end of the swing motion. The time from swinging the feeder to the moment the feeder flies will be longer than when throwing a rod with a fast action. It follows from this that with equal applied force, the speed of the feeder will be greater when casting with a slow action blank. That is, the higher the speed, the further the equipment flies.

Review of feeder feeders

Since the weight and shape of the feeder play an important role in the casting distance, we strongly advise you to watch the introductory video, which examines various feeders.

Let's summarize the casting distance. So, a long rod with a fast action, high-quality winding on the reel spool, a thin fishing line or cord, a feeder of optimal weight and a bullet-shaped shape of the feeder itself, these are the main factors influencing the casting distance.

Also, when casting extremely long, when you need to show the maximum distance, the spool should be pushed forward as much as possible, and the overhang should be thirty centimeters.

Find out more useful information about feeder fishing in our section by following the link.

Author of the article: Vitaly Leonidovich Ivanov, 2021.

Passing rings

The casting distance is also affected by the diameter of the guide rings, although not as much as the parameters of the rod itself. The increased diameter of the guide rings on the butt side reduces friction between the reel spool and the rod, which has a positive effect on casting distance. Speaking about the quality of the rings, it should be noted wear resistance - the ability to withstand the friction of a fishing line or braided cord without losing physical properties.

Equipment.

Another factor influencing the casting distance is the shape of the feeder and the type of equipment. Obviously, equipment with a “bullet” feeder flies further than a “cage” type feeder and the reason is not only in the location of their loading, but also in the aerodynamics of the feeder itself. I won’t go deep into examples and theory, because any angler can figure this out on their own. I will only note that the equipment itself can create certain problems, for example, equipment with an anti-twist tube, a symmetrical and asymmetrical loop (due to the presence of rigid twisting) - they do not fly far. Equipment: paternoster, “helicopter”, “in-line” - they fly much further. It is also important to remember that the number of leashes in the rig also affects the flight range - a second leash will significantly reduce the flight range.

Myth Busters! Steve Ringer on long casting

Author: Yura Lisovsky · March 28, 2014

Another material from the English fishing magazine Match Fishing Magazine, in which the well-known Steve Ringer talks about long-distance casting:

Myth Busters! Steve Ringer dispels several myths about casting over the horizon!

Conversations about casting distance are perhaps the most "implausible" of all fishing topics. There are a lot of rumors about who throws at what distances and how some anglers catch at 100 meters (although in reality there are only 70). In fact, this is a real nightmare and I want to talk about the realities of long-distance casting. In the last few years there have been a number of commercial waters popping up in England that really require long range fishing. One such is Barston Lakes. I read several stories on the snorkel book that in some sectors, in order to catch normally, you had to cast 100m+. Although I know this body of water very well and it’s simply unnecessary to throw there further than 75 meters! On the one hand, this is certainly not a problem. But on the other hand, such numbers can simply scare away an ordinary fisherman from visiting a reservoir and make the sectors somehow “elite”. Therefore, in this material I want to find the truth - how far are we throwing ourselves?

Casting technique

Firstly, for the long range you must have the correct casting technique and take full advantage of your rod's performance. Remember that the rod does most of the casting work. In addition, it is designed in such a way that it bends under load - so you don’t have to worry about breaking it. You should achieve a smooth, powerful cast. The rod starts almost horizontally behind you and ends almost horizontally in front of you - it moves in an arc. The power of the rod is most often concentrated in the central and butt parts of the blank. Therefore, it is these parts that need to be loaded in order to send the feeder as far as possible. To achieve this you need to use the entire length of the rod, and not just its tip. The hand that is located on the butt itself plays the main role during casting, as it creates the main force. In fact, when casting, I pull this hand towards my belly - this gives a lot of leverage. And the faster you do this, the more power you get in casting and the further the rig will fly. Be smooth and confident - these are the two main components you need to make these casts safely. Shoots are still inevitable, but they indicate a “weak” casting technique. A sharp (wrist) cast is not suitable at all as it cannot fully load the rod. You need to understand that such a technique does not come on its own, and for all those who want to really fish at long distances, I can advise the following - dedicate several trips to the water just to make casts with a fairly heavy sinker and hone your casting technique.

Perfect cast

As you can see in the picture, Steve's casting technique really puts stress on the rod. This is necessary when you are trying to cast “beyond the horizon”. The most important thing is to do everything smoothly - then the rod has time to “load up”. Interestingly, Steve stops the rod almost horizontally in front of him. Thanks to this, the main one comes off freely and without forming a “crease” in the tulip. Otherwise, it is in this place that friction arises, which reduces the speed at which the main one comes off the spool and, as a result, the casting range decreases.

Long casting and guides

The casting distance is also affected by the guide rings (implying quality), their diameter and relative position.

When talking about quality, we should mean wear resistance - the ability to withstand the friction of a cord or fishing line and at the same time not lose physical properties from the heat generated by the friction.

Not so long ago, a common failure of the passage rings was the internal inserts popping out as a result of their peeling off; the adhesive with which they were glued could not withstand the heating temperature, and the inserts themselves were significantly deformed when heated. In addition, some inserts, mainly on inexpensive feeder forms, are not suitable for using a cord, because it “cuts” their surface and subsequently increases the friction force on the surface of the inserts.

Long casting technique

Successful mastery of feeder casting means 100% accuracy of each throw. To properly cast a feeder, you need to adhere to certain rules:

Replace the spool with a weight equal to its weight. Getting a new sinker is much easier and cheaper than getting a reel, which can easily be lost during training. And additional weight is a must.
Carefully study the design of the tackle, make sure it is assembled correctly, because... The speed of line ejection depends on how evenly you set the rings.
For convenience, the distance between the load and the signal tip should be at least 1 meter.
Starting position: the working hand is leaning against the reel leg, the index finger presses the fishing line to the rod, and with the other hand we hold the tip of the handle.
When throwing, you must carefully monitor the fishing line or cord to avoid tangling.
We throw the tackle step by step:

- move the rod back until the reel reaches a vertical position;

— smoothly throw the tackle, straightening the working hand, so that the second one moves towards the chest;

- release the line at the moment when the fishing rod is perpendicular to the plane of the reservoir.

As soon as the load touches the water, do not try to hold the handle itself vertically; it should be tilted 70-80 degrees relative to the horizon, so there is less chance of the line breaking.
Adequately assess weather conditions, they also affect range and accuracy.
Always check that the line or cord is not tangled.

Proper technique is a process that requires a long learning curve. Don't despair if it doesn't work out for you the first time. The more you practice, the better you will do in the future.

Feeders for long casting

The longest-range feeders have a round shape, but it would be more correct to say cylindrical. They can be either with a metal or plastic mesh, but metal ones fly a little further, which is due to a slightly smaller volume with the same weight.

The main feature of long-range models is the shifted center of gravity in the opposite direction from the attachment to the fishing line, which provides the best aerodynamics. Such a feeder projectile flies strictly with the sinker forward, and the fishing line acts as a stabilizer, which ensures casting range and accuracy.

That's what they call them - bullet feeders, or rockets. They can be cast over a distance of 100 meters or more, if you have a medium-long rod and fishing line of a certain diameter.

Another feature of the bullet feeder is that it almost silently enters the water and quickly sinks to the bottom, which is important for feeder fishing at shallow depths and with shy fish. Disadvantages: they do not hold the bottom well in currents, especially rocky ones; sinks deep into the mud.

Tips for long casting with a feeder rod.

The thinner the line, the further the cast can be made.
Long rods allow for longer casting.
The optimal weight for long casting is 80% of the top weight of the rod.
A fishing line that is too thin may not withstand the stress of casting and may break, and your feeder will fly off to the neighboring shore.

From personal experience, I will say that my federation rods with 80 and 100 grams of top weight cast the farthest on 60-70 gram feeders filled with food, which in total is approximately 70-80 grams.

Where to throw the feeder

The place where you need to throw the feeder - the bait zone - is limited. This means that throwing accuracy plays an important role.

Having a specific target makes it easier to hit it, but how to do this on the surface of the water? For an accurate sight, the fisherman should choose a landmark on the nearest shore and not change his position relative to it. When re-casting the feeder, make marks on the fishing line or cord with a marker, so you can control the casting distance.

Always keep the handle pointed towards where you are throwing.

If it is necessary to re-cast to a previously baited place and in the presence of a current, you should clip in, release the line 1-2 meters, and cast against the current until the target is reached.

How to choose a feeder for long casting

When choosing a feeder for long-distance casting, it is worth considering that the length of the throw is influenced by:

the shape of the inertial reel spool;
action, rod length;
quality, diameter of passage rings;
precisely selected weight of the feeder.

Feeder

The aerodynamic properties of the thrown load, the correctly selected weight and the location of the load affect the range. For example, a bullet-shaped feeder flies further than a metal mesh feeder. This is easy to figure out if you know the simple laws of physics.

fishing line

When choosing it, you need to take into account the stretchability. More experienced fishermen use a cord for rigging, but if cast incorrectly, it can simply break the top of the rig. Medium stretch monofilament string works great.

Coil

The casting distance of a reel is mainly influenced by the shape of the spool. For long casts it is better to use a low profile spool. Reels with aluminum spools are considered the best; their sides are as smooth as possible, and the surface offers less resistance when the line or cord moves. For example, "Long Cast" are shaped like a cone. The sides of such a reel are smoother, due to this the line has less sail and glides easier.

The spools of a spinning reel with a larger diameter will be better in quality, because... Logically, a larger reel has fewer turns of line and less friction.

Rod build

Feeder rods come in two types:

The difference between them is the bending of the main part. Fast (translated from English as “quickly”) unbends faster, sending the load into the water with less force. Slow - slow, unbends for a long time and pushes the feeder forward with greater force. The price of rods made of the same material, from the same company, will vary greatly due to the difference in the increase in applied force.

Passing rings

The casting range of the feeder reel depends on the following parameters of the guide rings:

diameter of forms;
arrangement of forms;
the material from which they are made.

Passage rings are those elements of the equipment through which the fishing line passes and constantly rubs. They must be made of wear-resistant material. During the casting process, friction occurs, which causes heat. This is especially noticeable when using a cord, so you should give preference to the following materials:

aluminum;
metal ceramics with silicon coating.

The location and diameter of the rings play a smaller, but still important role. The most successful arrangement is to install large rings at the beginning and smaller ones at the end. Manufacturers claim that this increases the range of the gear.

The influence of feeder price on casting distance

Above, we examined the design of the feeder reel in detail, and from the description we can conclude: when choosing equipment for long-distance casts, you need to carefully select the rod, reel and fishing line. The range of throws directly depends on their quality, and a high-quality product cannot be cheap. But it is quite acceptable for a novice fisherman to save on materials, because... there is a high probability of breakdowns and damage to parts of the fishing rod.

Feeder for long casting

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Fedorov

Such gear is necessary when the fish, for some reason, is far from the shore. “Far” is an elastic concept. For one person, say, 70m is an extraordinary result, for another it is ordinary. However, the concept of “long casting” exists and it is only possible if all elements of the tackle are adjusted to each other, and the characteristics of the tackle as a system correspond to the goal and our physical capabilities. There are plenty of good and different materials about the choice of such elements of gear as equipment, feeders and cords, and I will not dwell on them. I’ll just express some thoughts about the rod and reel.

First of all, you need to decide on the rod test. To do this, you need to understand: what information does this number on the form contain? It’s funny to see when on the same website in the first video they say that the test cannot be exceeded - the rod may break. In the second video, a picker with a 40g test is throwing a 300-gram load as hard as they can and for the hell of it. In the third video, rods are broken under load and a rod with more test breaks under less load than a rod with less test. In general, it’s a leapfrog, which, however, requires an explanation.

I have my own thoughts on this matter, which in a simplified form are as follows. The manufacturer makes a pilot batch of rods and conducts bench tests with them in order to determine the weight of the load at which the rod blank works most effectively. Let's assume the weight of the load is 70g. This is the weight that can be cast at the maximum distance with this rod. Then, according to the “golden ratio” rule, the maximum test of the rod, at which it still retains more or less acceptable efficiency, will be 70g: 0.62 = 113g.

If this rod is put into production, the maximum test calculated in this way is marked on the form either in non-standard form “110g”, or the nearest standard one – “120g”. In other words, no one tests the strength of the rod. And therefore his test on the form has a tangential relationship with his strength. Thus, having bought a rod with a 120g test and multiplying this test by 0.62, we will get an approximate (~) optimal load weight (in this case ~75g), at which the rod blank will work most efficiently.

For example, on spinning rods, as a rule, a lower test is indicated (when the form is already switched on) and an upper test (when the form is almost switched off from work). To calculate the optimal weight of the bait, the maximum and minimum tests are summed up and the sum is divided in half. Let's say (5g + 25g) : 2 = 15g. If we calculate according to the “golden ratio” rule, we get: 25g x 0.62 = 15.5g. Let's take a rod with a test of 10-35g, calculate it this way and that way - we get 22.5g and ~22g, respectively. As you can see, the rule works if the tests are specified correctly by the manufacturer.

Then, for a rod with a test of 150g, the approximate optimal load weight for the longest cast is ~95g, and with a test of 180g, ~110g. This means that a rod with a 120g test as a long-range one is better suited for fishing in shallow waters without a current, because the own weight of the feeder without bait is too small (up to 30-40g) to cope with even a weak current over a long distance and for too long she will sink. A rod with 150g test is suitable for long distances in deep water bodies without current. And a rod with 180g test will cope with a very noticeable current. There are also rods with larger test weights (up to 300g) for fishing in truly extreme conditions. The optimal weight of a loaded feeder for such a rod is 300g x 0.62 ≈ 180g.

It is known that the longer the rod and the faster its action, the potentially longer-range it is. Simply because, other things being equal, according to the laws of physics, a fast and long rod can provide a higher initial speed of the feeder. The rationale for this fact is given here: .

But there is also such a thing as the optimal length of a fishing rod, which directly depends on the anthropometry and physical development of the fisherman. Thanks Archimedes. He proved that the longer the rod, the longer its handle should be. And the longer the handle, the longer the angler’s arms should be for a comfortable grip and, therefore, the higher his height should be. That is, by taking the necessary anthropometric measurements and knowing the multiplication table, you can calculate your personal optimal rod length.

If you consider laziness, then you can use the empirical formula, according to which the effective length of the feeder rod should not exceed the angler’s height by more than 2.5 times. That is, for an angler with a height of 170 cm - no more than 4.25 m, and for an angler with a height of 180 cm - no more than 4.5 m. What do the real pros in long-distance casting – carp anglers – think about this? They believe that for long casting a 3.6m long rod is optimal for an angler 170cm tall, and a 3.9m rod for an angler 180cm tall. But when casting, the whole rod works, and on the feeder only the blank works (without a nod). Feeders 4.2-4.5 m are usually equipped with nods 50 cm long. Consequently, the length of the forms is 3.7 m and 4.0 m, respectively. Almost the same as that of carp fishermen. This is encouraging - theory coincides with practice.

The longer the rod, the more difficult it is to balance it and the greater the demands placed on the fisherman’s physical training in order to realize the potential capabilities of the rod. As a result, feeder rods with a length of 4.5 m and above are not yet particularly popular and, perhaps, that is why their assortment in stores is very poor - there is nothing to choose from. But then there is nothing to write about - take what you have. Let us reassure ourselves that just a dozen years ago the range of 4.2m rods was also poor. Therefore, for now we will focus on 4.2m rods, as they are the most popular for long-distance casting. But everything that has been said fully applies to all feeder rods without exception.

The next parameter that is worth paying attention to is the length of the handle (from the butt to the reel seat). Typically the length of the handle of such rods is about 50cm. But there may be options. Then, we take the first leg of the rod with one hand in the area of the reel seat, with the other - by the butt where it is convenient for us, and make several smooth (we are in the store after all) swings and casts. We select the rod whose handle length is more comfortable for us. If in doubt, like Buridan’s donkey, we choose the one with the longer handle.

We assemble the rod and find its center of gravity - the point on the form at which it (the rod), located horizontally, is in balance. The same Archimedes taught that the closer this point is to the reel seat, the easier it is to cast.

Now you can pay attention to the weight of the rod. If there is still plenty to choose from, choose what is easier.

If we have a need to have a long-range fishing rod, then most likely we already have some experience and it is not our first. Therefore, it will be very good if its transport length corresponds to the length of the case we have, so as not to buy a new one.

Rice. 1

We look at the rings of the assembled rod from the butt side. The first three rings should form concentric circles (shown in red in Figure 1), and the rest should smoothly move towards the upper border of the third (and sometimes second) ring (shown in black).

The turns of the cord, coming off the spool, form a spiral in the air. This spiral arises. This force is proportional to the square of the angular velocity of rotation of the spiral. That is, the further the cast, the greater the speed of the line, the more turns come off the spool per unit time, the more the spiral inflates (photo on the left). As it passes the first ring, the cord slows down due to friction in the ring, the spiral in front of the ring swells even more, and at some point the cord may begin to knock on the form, knocking off the varnish coating (photo 1 below). (Photo borrowed here).

In general, the lion's share of the total friction of the line during casting (on the spool, on the rings and on the air) occurs precisely on the first ring. There are not many ways to reduce this friction - only two. The first is to increase the diameter of the spool in order to reduce the number of descending turns per unit length of the cord. Therefore, it is worth paying attention to the size of the first ring from the reel, which determines the maximum permissible diameter of the spool bead. So, for example, for ring #30 (according to Fuji classification) on feeder rods it is allowed to install a reel with a spool side diameter of up to ~60mm, and for ring #25 – up to ~50mm. For a 4.2m rod, a #30 guide is considered optimal.

Photo 1

The second way out is to increase the length of the spool, then the laying height (its radius) will decrease more slowly, which means there will be fewer turns per unit time. In addition, the weighted average angle between the running cord and the spool board increases - friction on the spool board decreases. Or better yet, both together. Conclusion: the reel spool should be as long as possible with a maximum bead diameter corresponding to the first ring. Dedicated is the main and uncompromising condition for a reel on a “long-range” rod.

When the speed of translational movement of the line along the side of the spool increases (that is, when the casting distance increases), the friction force on the board increases in proportion to the speed, regardless of the diameter of the spool. Let's say the speed doubles, therefore, the friction on board will double. But the cord, in addition, moves in a circle and at the same time, as was said, a centrifugal force arises, tearing it away from the side. In this case, the centrifugal force, which reduces friction on board, grows faster (since it is proportional to the square of the speed) than the linear friction force. And theoretically, when a certain speed is reached (at least in the initial part of the flight), the cord can come off the spool without touching the board exactly at the moment when the friction on the board could be maximum. It's great. This is what straight-taper spools are designed for.

But the cord laying must be perfect. Otherwise, due to interturn friction (and the cord has more friction than the fishing line), several turns of the cord can simultaneously come off. As a result, a “beard” is formed, followed by the shooting of the feeder. Therefore, if a cord is used, it is recommended to reduce the laying height, that is, to place the cord again on the side of the spool. Then what is the point of using a straight-tapered spool if all its advantages are neutralized by us? It’s better not to take risks and abandon these reels.

For this reason, it is worth paying attention to reels with a baitrunner. They are, of course, somewhat heavier on average, but we can’t jig with them. The main force acting on the feeder when casting is the centrifugal force resulting from the rotation of the rod around the reel seat. That is, the reel is, in fact, in the center of rotation and its weight has virtually no effect on the speed of rotation of the rod. For this reason, a baitrunner can be useful when catching large fish with some kind of “crucian carp killer”.

Conditions on the shore may differ significantly from the greenhouse conditions we considered. The required weight of feeders can be significantly greater. Therefore, the coil must be a power coil with a gear ratio of no more than (4.6-4.7):1.

Rice. 2

Having chosen a reel that suits our requirements, it doesn’t hurt to check it for alignment with the rings of our rod, just in case. This can be done as follows. Remove the first bend and install the reel without a spool. We look at it from the side of the first ring. If the height of the coil leg and the tilt of its axis are suitable, then when the coil rod is in the center of the ring, it should be directed directly into our eye. It’s even better if you take two legs of the rod and look at the reel through the first three rings, but this is not always convenient, since it depends on the location of the fourth and subsequent rings. But with the help of a mirror this is possible.

If there is no horizontal alignment, then the coil is either “left-handed” or defective. If it is not vertical, then most likely the rings on the rod are installed incorrectly.

In conclusion, I would like to note that the most ideal tackle does not throw itself and does not fly on its own. But there is a lot about the technique of force-throwing materials. Again, good and different.

Tags: feeder

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Feeder for long casting

30.11.2019 14:28:45

In the second video, a picker with a 40g test is thrown at a 300-gram load as hard as they can and for the hell of it. Can I watch this video? Well, picker's mobile

O2xygeN

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Feeder for long casting

02.12.2019 11:48:32

Look for “Hello Gear” on the YouTube channel.

Beginner mistakes when casting a feeder

Long casting of the feeder is a complex technique that requires skill. In any business, beginners make mistakes. The most popular of them:

Incorrect selection of materials.
Wrong choice of fishing spot. It is worth looking for a shore without trees and thickets in order to avoid entanglement.
Rush. Check your tackle thoroughly before each throw. Even the slightest tangling of the fishing line can cause the top to break off.
Lowering the rod after the cast. As a rule, due to the flexibility of the action, the rod compensates for the load on the fishing line and prevents it from breaking. The correct way to cast a feeder is to hold the rod vertically after casting. This is an important rule to remember.

Having thoroughly prepared, trained in casting, and read the recommendations on the topic of fishing with feeder casting, do not forget that fishing should bring pleasure to the fisherman. This is perhaps the most important point in all types of fishing. Do what you love and everything will work out.

Clip

The first method is traditional. The cord goes under the clip. The main advantage of this method of fixing distance is accuracy. The fishing distance is always the same and does not depend on anything. Along with this, this method has several significant disadvantages. Firstly, you need to strictly control the flight of the feeder, and keep your hand relaxed at the final stage of casting. This is done to absorb the final jerk-impact of the feeder on the fishing line. If you overdo it and throw too hard, and do not relax your hand when casting the feeder, then breaking the cord is almost inevitable. Moreover, a break can occur anywhere in the cord, not necessarily at the clip.

The second point is related to the quality of the reel, and specifically the quality of the spool itself. As a rule, in inexpensive reels, the edges of the holes in which the clip is fixed are poorly processed and left with burrs. It’s not hard to guess what the consequences of such burrs are for a braided cord. Taking into account the constant shock loads, the sharp edges simply cut the cord and on the next power cast we see how our fishing distance, carried away by the feeder, flies into the distance.

Read: Donk fishing, picker, feeder

Thirdly , when catching large fish (primarily carp and grass carp), this method of fixation is also not suitable. With one jerk the fish can wind the line right up to the clip, and then either the hook breaks or it bends.