Autumn. All nature freezes in anticipation of winter. Birds fly south. The fish are driven deeper into wintering pits. The ice has not yet risen, which means the fly fishing season continues. Of course, you can fish in winter, however, then the performance drops like never before.
For most fly fishermen, the time of late autumn is associated with pike fishing. You can also go after perch or try to seduce the chub with various imitations. I myself prefer pike as an opponent, but from time to time I hunt other fish.
Chub fishing
The chub, the most popular “fly fishing” fish, has gone into deep, calm holes and almost never appears on the stream, unlike in the summer. He does not actively hunt, becomes extremely lethargic, and is quite difficult to stir him up. At this time, it responds very rarely to dry flies.
The only effective bait is a fairly large bright beetle on hook No. 2–4. In summer, such sizes are not in demand, but in autumn the chub sometimes attacks large prey that has fallen on the water. Working flies can be imitations of various aquatic inhabitants: Zonker, Woolly Bugger and similar flies. In autumn, chub prefers dark baits, and pike respond well to bright acid flies.
Let's complicate things a little
Next, we will try to complicate our actions a little, but this, accordingly, should have a positive effect on the number of bites. We do everything the same as in the previous case, with the exception of the actual casting itself. And there are no longer such strict requirements for current strength and depth. Before casting, wind about 1.5–2 m of line from the reel; this loop should hang freely below your left hand holding the line. Cast at 45° downstream. At the last stage of casting, ideally, when the line has straightened out but has not yet laid down on the water, release the supply of line from your left hand and try, with a wrist movement of your hand, to lay out a loop of the line towards the current (Fig. 3). This technique is called mending, and you will use it constantly in the future. A similar technique is used when fishing with a dry fly. There, a loop of line laid out against the current ensures natural floating of the dry fly. In our case, mending allows us to additionally solve the problem of quickly deepening the nymph. Next, carry out the wiring as in the case described above. You will feel the bites on the cord held in your left hand. When touching on the topic of bites, the question of using an indicator quite reasonably arises. This is a kind of device, essentially a banal analogue of a float. In our case, when wiring on an almost straightened cord, this very indicator is not needed, you will already feel the bite on the cord. When casting against the current, when the line has not begun to straighten, and you do not yet have the skill to see a bite by the movement of the line directly in the water, you can use an indicator. But this already applies to more “advanced” nymph fishing, which I will try to understand below.
Perch
Perch does not change its habits much throughout the year; only the parking areas may vary. Almost certainly, a “striped” one can be found in an overgrown section of a river with a calm current and a depth of up to 1.5 m. It is enough to choose a fly that suits the mood of this fish, and the catch is guaranteed: perch is a schooling fish, usually one bite is followed by several more.
Light rods are quite suitable for catching chub and perch, because in such fishing you do not have to work with huge streamers. But for pike fishing, a heavy class will not hurt. As you know, it is almost impossible to scare a “toothy” fly with the enormous size of the fly (within reasonable limits, of course), and the likelihood of catching a large fish when using a large bait increases noticeably.
This does not mean that a small “string” does not attack a streamer the size of itself, but a large pike cannot be attracted by a small bait. Usually it is at this time that the “eights” or “nines” equipped with heavy short-headed cords are unsheathed. And instead of a small box with flies, they take a case with large bright streamers.
Let's start easy
Instead of an introduction:
Having decided to plunge into the world of two-handed fly fishing, at first I was completely confused - there was such a flow of new information, but there was practically no systematic information.
The information below is a kind of “squeeze” from posts and articles on forums such as: https://www.fly-fishing.ru/fly/forum/, https://www.mushki.ru/terki/, https://www.kola-salmon.ru/forum/.
I would like to express my gratitude for the information to: The Max, Andrey S., Garik, Spey.Caster.
You guys are really moving fly fishing in our country. Thank you very much!!!
1. Spey (Classic spey, Long cord).
1.1. Design features:
- long or extra-long head (depending on the class and specific model of the cord from 55 to 85, and sometimes up to 100 feet!);
— extra-long front cone;
- short rear cone.
see for example SA Distance Spey
1.2. Spey cords are usually floating and come with interchangeable ends of varying degrees of immersion. The head of the spey cord is longer than the heads of other cords, it is weighted completely differently, the mass seems to be stretched. In this connection, they allow you to make long and ultra-long casts, have good control over casting and retrieving (since it allows you to work on a fixed cord without constantly firing the running line). The long front cone of one of the primary functions carries a delicate presentation of the front sight. In deep holes with strong currents, when fishing in the channel zones of deep rivers, spey lines, even armed with fast-sinking ends, will not be convenient, because the thick floating part of the cord will carry the sinking end from the depths. However, on clamps near the shore, as well as in places with not very strong currents or shallow depths, the spey cord, due to its floating body, will make it possible to more accurately control the fly line and eliminate snags. Due to the length of the head, they require quite comfortable conditions for casting. As a rule, they are used on large rivers in not very deep places.
1.3. Types and features of casting.
You can use an overhead and any spey-shaped casts: Roll Cast, Switch/Jam Roll Cast, Single Spey, Double Spey, Snake Roll, Snap T, Snap Z, Circle Spey, Peri Poke.
Spey casting with cord-cords has its own characteristics, and the style of casting with long-bodied cords is called “modern spey”.
2. Scandi (Scandinavian head, Short cord).
2.1. Design features:
- a head of medium length (depending on the class and specific model of the cord from 30 to 40 feet);
- long front cone;
- short rear cone.
Note: There are super short Scandinavian heads. For example, as an ultra-short head, you can consider RW Ambush (head length 21 feet), which is closer in shape to Scandi cord and in length to Skagit.
see for example SA Scandi Extreme Head
2.2. In fact, they are a short-bodied and somewhat more load-bearing version of classic spey cords. It is not very convenient to fish with heads at long distances: for fishing at long distances you will have to shoot a long length of running line, which, moreover, likes to get tangled, and it is difficult to control the movement of the fly at long distances. They are very undemanding in terms of free space; you can cast from almost any position, moreover, if you don’t need to throw far. Based on this, they are used for working at medium distances with heavier flies on the same class of gear. Fishing with heads is justified in narrow, overgrown places, also in strong currents, when the wind is too strong. When fishing in places with a quiet current, it is necessary to install a very long conical leader on the head, otherwise all the fish will run away from the splashing of the head. Often the front cone of the Scandi is trimmed, which brings it closer to the Skagit.
The main difference between Scandi cords for two-handed rods is that, as a rule, these are separate heads (without running and tippet ends) in various variations - floating, sinking, neutral buoyancy, and also with sinking ends. Their advantage is the convenience of arranging heads with leaders and leashes, as well as changing the heads themselves. In general, they solve the vast majority of practical fishing problems with slightly greater ease of use and ease of operation. They are easier to change, easier to adjust to the rod, fly and angler, easier to vary the equipment that comes after the head. You can have one reel with spooled backing and running for similar classes of rods and change only the heads.
For example, in deep holes with strong currents, when fishing in the channel zones of deep rivers, fast-sinking heads will provide the required depth of the retrieve, thin running will not affect the depth in any way, however, on clamps near the shore, as well as in places with not very strong currents or shallow depths, you will have to change the head to a lighter one - otherwise you can’t do without a hook (although this largely depends on the angler’s knowledge of the river). However, when using fully sinking heads, controlling the fly pattern is problematic.
2.3. Types and features of casting.
You can use an overhead and any spey-shaped casts: Roll Cast, Switch/Jam Roll Cast, Single Spey, Double Spey, Snake Roll, Snap T, Snap Z, Circle Spey, Peri Poke.
Casting with scandi lines has its own characteristics, and the casting style is called “underhand”.
3. Skagit.
3.1. Design features:
- short or ultra-short very heavy head: depending on the class and specific model of the cord from 16 to 30 feet;
- long, but not as pronounced as Scandi, front cone;
- short rear cone.
Note: The front cone is not as pronounced as that of Scandi, sometimes it is completely absent, for which some people call this cord “flying sausage”.
see for example SA Skagit Extreme Head
3.2. The Skagit is an ultra-short head, mass concentrated in a small area, short front and rear cones, designed for tight conditions, sinking tips, undergrowth and bulky heavy flies. Allows you to cast heavier flies in more cramped conditions than scandi. Skagit cords are used when conditions are very cramped, when for some reason you need a strip with a two-handed fly, when the flies are too heavy. The pros and cons are even more pronounced than those of Scandi. The disadvantage is that the cord splashes down noisily (the “sausage” splashes in the water).
3.3. Types and features of casting.
Due to the specifics of skagit cords, you can perform spey-shaped casts with a long anchor: Roll Cast, Double Spey, Snap T, Snap Z, Circle Spey, Peri Poke.
Like any other type of line, casting with skagit lines has its own characteristics, which allows some authors to distinguish a special style of casting - “skagit casting”.
PS Where to start?
It is clear that having gained some theory, it is still difficult for a beginner to decide: where to start mastering a two-handed tackle? At one of the posts on this issue, our GURUs agreed in a dispute))) Out of respect for them, I decided to convey the dialogue almost verbatim...
Garik
But I would pose the question (as to where to start, my note) completely differently. In principle, it’s different... We are dealing with a person who has just picked up a two-handed tackle. Now his main task is not to catch fish (no matter in what conditions and with what fly) but to train and try to understand the principles of working with two-handed tackle. All this does not fit in with the geography of residence and the species composition of the fish. Everyone needs this, everywhere. It is quite logical to assume that before this the person fished with a one-handed weapon. Accordingly, he has muscle memory. Having picked up a two-handed weapon, he continues to throw with a one-handed weapon in accordance with his muscle memory, which means most likely with his right (upper) hand. The left (lower) hand, as a rule, does not even hold the fishing rod, but simply holds on to it. This is fundamentally wrong because, having two hands, you need to work with both. But after one-handed training, a person does not know how to work with his left (lower) hand. Which technique is most demanding on the work of the lower hand? That's right - underhand. When is it better to use the underhand? That's right - when working with heads. If we draw a parallel with a one-handed rope, then a beginner trains with a cord whose head is 9 m. This is normal and things are starting to work out for him. Let's give a beginner a cord with an 18m head. What can he do with her? That's right - nothing. Let's advise the beginner, depending on the species composition of the fish and the flies used, to use a long-bodied line. And based on the conditions described above, this advice will be completely logical. But what can a beginner do with it? That's right - nothing.
Conclusion: Regardless of the place of residence and the intended fish, first you need to equip the fishing rod with a head and ends and train the underhand in order to teach the left (lower) hand to work more than the right (upper). And as you understand the processes, you can gradually move on to longer heads and then to long-bodied cords.
Again, regardless of the composition of the fish and flies. Simply because none of us can ever know where fate will take us tomorrow. This means you need to master the maximum number of different techniques and be prepared for all conditions.
Another reason to master the technique of casting long lines in the future is that it’s very beautiful!
Andrey S.
In general, I would recommend a short-bodied spey cord (with a head up to 17 m) with replaceable ends for initial training, and for fishing, it is very versatile. Having fished with such a cord, you will be able to understand what is missing, because versatility leads to a decrease in certain characteristics. Then, after some time, having ends from the cord, they can be adapted to the Scandinavian head and get good specialized tackle for fishing with larger flies and in more difficult conditions. And then separately, a medium-bodied spey cord, only floating - for medium-sized flies and generally for pleasure. You just need to gain initial experience and understand what your soul desires. Without this, there is no point in spending money on sets of cords/heads.
…
The most average-universal and at the same time the most common universal two-hander on the Kola (north bank) is 14 feet, class 9. Can be fished at any water level. Usually this is the choice of anglers who do not plan to collect a whole fleet (2-3 rods, more is a pathology) of rods for various conditions.
The most averagely versatile cord is WindCutter® VersiTip Spey WF9/10/11 TIPS for such a two-hander. Is it a good choice of cord? It’s very good for a beginner, it couldn’t be more universal, it’s not difficult to learn to throw. You can fish at any water level, with almost any flies.
Naturally, over time you will want something more specialized, but such a kit is good for a start in order to understand what requirements you will have for gear in the future. And then this set will not remain unnecessary.
Garik
But I can’t help but agree with Andrey. And I think that WindCutte is an excellent cord for both training and fishing. True, I can’t say the same about the one-handed weapon. I didn't like the one-handed WindCutte. But that’s not about that now.
With the set that Andrey outlined, you can really fish in almost any conditions. But…! For example, I decided to sharpen myself more finely. And I changed the 9 to 10 and 8. Of course, this entails additional costs, but I like narrower gear more. But if we are talking about buying only one fishing rod and that’s it, then the choice of 9 will be optimal.
Taken in full
alex41643 / https://mushki.ru/terki/viewtopic.php?t=371...asc&start=0
Pike
Pike can be caught right up to the freeze-up. Last year I came across a toothy predator in early December, when there was ice off the coast and I had to enter the water like an icebreaker. My favorites for pre-winter pike are large, acidic Zonkers. The flies should be quite voluminous and noticeable; they should irritate the pike and cause a bite.
It is difficult to describe the sensations that you experience when catching large pike in late autumn. Fingers stiff from cold water and cold air, a slightly stiff cord, an icy wind, but when the rod bends under the weight of a beating fish, no one pays attention to these little things.
