Fluorocarbon line for ice fishing

Fluorocarbon line is a fishing thread made of fluorocarbon (Fluorocarbon), which is practically invisible in the water. The material achieves this effect due to its refractive index of light being very close to that of water.

Here is an article about all the advantages and disadvantages of fluorocarbon fishing line for leashes. You will learn about popular brands of fishing line and suitable knots that can contain the excessive rigidity of this material.

Table of refractive indices of popular types of fishing line

Opaque objects	1
Water	1.33
Fluorocarbon line	1.42
Monofilament line	1.6
Network	2.1

Best Fluorocarbon Lines

Here is a rating of fluorocarbon fishing lines for 6 different purposes. Prices are indicated at the time of publication of the article and are the average between several online stores. The price per 1 m is also subjective. It is not an offer agreement.

Purpose	Brand	price, rub.
Fluorocarbon for spinning leashes	Sunline Siglon FC	370
For winter fishing	Team SALMO Ice Soft Fluorocarbon	325
For feeder and float leashes	Shimano Tiagra Fluorocarbon Leader	880
Thick leads for bends	Sufix Castable 100% Fluorocarbon Clear	1900
The most expensive (1 m)	Shimano Antares Fluorocarbon Low Visibility	1100
Best price/quality ratio	Owner Fluorocarbon Tournament Line	355

Fluorocarbon leader line Sunline Siglon FC Team SALMO Ice Soft Fluorocarbon Shimano Tiagra Fluorocarbon Leader Sufix Fluorocarbone Shimano Antares Fluorocarbon Low Visibility Owner Tournament Line FC

Fluorocarbon line has some disadvantages.

High rigidity. In rare cases, when you need to make a leash with a bend or a piece of fishing line that is rigidly pulled away from the equipment, this is only beneficial, but in other cases, increased rigidity is bad. The main disadvantage is that it does not hold well on knots. Due to its rigidity, fluorocarbon line cannot be fully tightened at some knots. So use the knots I recommend in this article.
Low strength. Approximately 60% less effort is required to break this type of fishing line with a diameter of 0.2 mm compared to the same diameter, but monofilament. That is why I recommend taking larger diameters. Since fluorocarbon is invisible in water, there is nothing to worry about if the thread is thicker than even the main line.
High price for 1 meter. The disadvantage is very conditional. This fishing line does not require as much as braided or monofilament, which is why it is sold in small quantities of 25-50 meters.

Advantages

Invisibility in water. From the table at the beginning of the article, you can see that the refractive index of fluorocarbon, the material from which fluorocarbon thread is made, is 1.42, it is very close to the refractive index of water – 1.33. That is why the fishing line is almost invisible in the water, which makes it easier to get bites from cautious fish (carp, crucian carp).

Rigidity. For knitting diverting leashes, it is much better if the fishing line is rigid and does not intertwine with the main cord, but goes to the side, as it should.

Little things: sinks well, is frost-resistant, more difficult to cut on driftwood and shells, does not deteriorate in the sun, practically does not stretch.

Differences between fluorine and monofilament line: fluorocarbon is stiffer and holds knots worse, is less visible in the water, breaks easier and is slightly more expensive per 1 m.

Fluorocarbon vs Mono

Have you ever wondered what effect one single detail can have on the outcome of our fishing? For example, the choice of bait, the hook model, the choice of shock absorber or whether you use a cup or not? The idea behind the X Factor is to try to test whether changing a single component of our fishing makes a difference to our results.

The key to a good test is to try, if possible, to keep all other elements the same...rigs, floats, bait, etc., so that the only difference is in one single factor, which is the subject of our test. The results are often amazing and sometimes unexpected! However, fishing is a magical sport and no two days are ever the same! In The X Factor we can never categorically say that one thing is always better than another. What we can test and prove is that changing just one detail in our approach to fishing makes a difference on a certain body of water, at a certain time of year, in certain weather conditions. Let's face the X-factor, because if we always knew all the answers in fishing, we would soon get tired of it! Over the past year, a number of anglers throughout France have asked me what I think about using fluorocarbon lines in general freshwater fishing. I gave a vague answer that fluorocarbon is still actively used by fly fishermen for undergrowth and some barbel fishermen as the main line for a reel, but it is not so widely accepted by the majority of sports anglers. However, some top anglers use fluorocarbon on a regular basis and in Italy it is becoming a 'must have' line on their tight and clear rivers... However, I think it is true to say that the majority of sport anglers stick with anything made from nylon monofilament. in which they are confident. And I'm no exception. After all, a leash is such an individual thing! You have to build trust with the nylon of the leash, and this takes time. Once an angler has found a line he likes, he doesn’t really want to change it or experiment further. This, of course, was the underlying reason for my vague answers about fluorocarbon... I couldn't really express my personal opinion about fluorocarbon, since I had simply never really tried it myself! As a journalist, I knew it wasn't really very good. People wanted to know about these lines, but I couldn't find the time or opportunity to test them. So, to correct this omission, I did some test fishing on one of my local lakes.

For his test, David took two rigs that were identical in every way... except for the leashes! I decided to fish using two identical rigs... identical floats, sinkers and shock absorbers... everything except the leaders! I put a 0.10mm fluorocarbon leader on one rig, and a mono leader of the same diameter on the other. The results were interesting and unexpected, more on them later. However, many of you may know a little about these fishing lines, so first a few words about them.

What is fluorocarbon? Simply put, the term “fluorocarbon” refers to some kind of compound of fluorine and carbon. This line itself is made from a polymer known as polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF). The manufacturing process is almost the same as for all of our normal nylon monofilament lines. PVDF begins its life as plastic pellets that arrive at a factory where they are then poured into a heated tank and melted. The liquid plastic is then forced through a large hole, from which comes a continuous “sausage” of sticky plastic-like glue. This “sausage” cools quickly in water, which helps align all the polymer molecules in the same direction. At this stage the line is uniformly thick and to obtain different diameters it is run through heated rollers and stretched slightly, decreasing in diameter until it reaches the desired thickness. After this, it is finally cooled and wound onto spools, ready for delivery to stores.

What are its characteristics? All this technical knowledge will probably be superfluous for most anglers. In them we are much more interested in what relates to fishing than to chemistry. It seems that fluorocarbon has some advantages for most anglers, the essence of which we will outline below. Visibility in the water This is the most touted benefit of fluorocarbon lines. They are considered invisible in water. What this actually means is that fluorocarbon refracts light almost as well as water, making the line almost completely invisible in the water. This is its main advantage, which has turned so many fly fishermen and large fish specialists to fluorocarbon.

A little science! To understand the visibility aspect of water a little better, scientists use a measure called "refractive index." For materials that do not refract light, it takes a value of 1, but the highest values of the refractive index are greater than 2. For water, it is equal to 1.33. For nylon monofilament it is somewhere around 1.6, for braided it is more than 2.1. And fluorocarbon has a refractive index of 1.42, much closer to water's value of 1.33, making it very difficult to notice when submerged in water. Resistance to water and sunlight Unlike regular monofilament, fluorocarbon is water-resistant and does not suffer from direct sunlight. Both braid and monofilament absorb a certain percentage of water during fishing, becoming a little heavier. This water-absorbing property for braid and monofilament is not entirely negative, because if you tighten the knot, the line swells slightly around it, making the knot a little less noticeable. Abrasion Resistance Fluorocarbon is much more abrasion resistant than other lines. It has a hard outer surface that is difficult to damage. This can be quite beneficial if you use "fluoro" on the reel. Unfortunately, for now, most anglers are inclined to use fluoro purely as a fishing line for leaders. However, many plug anglers have found its use as a rig line to be exceptional as it holds heavy weights clamped to it well and allows them to be moved carefully. So why don't we all use it? After reading this, you might be wondering, why doesn't every angler use fluorocarbon line? If they are almost invisible, what stops us from using 3kg (breaking) leaders for all our fishing trips? After all, then there would be a minimal chance of losing the bonus fish, you might think! Okay, fluorocarbon still has a few downsides to understand before I tell you about my test. Breaking Load Fluorocarbon line has a relatively low breaking load compared to high-tech monofilament line of the same diameter. The breaking load of fluorocarbon can be almost half that of standard monofilament. Stiffness Another common criticism of fluorocarbon is that it is very stiff, like a wire. I have to admit that the stiffness seems to vary greatly depending on the manufacturer. The Drennan fluoro I used for the test was surprisingly flexible to the touch, but others may be more brittle. Knot Problems This seems to be the main cause of concern when using fluorocarbon lines, and there are two areas where an angler may run into difficulty. The first concerns directly the strength of the knot itself. Fluorocarbon has a reputation for "creeping on knots" and as I mentioned earlier this may be due to the fact that it does not absorb water and therefore does not swell and allows the knot to "crawl". To prevent this, many big fish anglers apply a drop of superglue to the knot to secure it. But I doubt that sport fishermen will do the same, because it takes too much time. Also, a blob of glue might look great on a number 6 hook, but it would be too much for a number 22! The second problem lies in the possibility of damage to the line when you tighten the knot tightly. Fluorocarbon can be sensitive to friction (at the knot) and many anglers caution how carefully they need to tighten knots to avoid damaging the rig's line.

The X Factor Armed with all this fluoro knowledge, I decided to test it against a standard mono line and see how effective the line would be when I got to actually fishing. My idea was simple. I will fish all day in one place, but with two almost identical equipment. Identical floats, identical weights, identical shock absorbers... everything except the leashes. One will have 0.10mm mono, the other will have 0.10mm fluorocarbon. My idea was to constantly alternate the rigs throughout the day, looking for any differences. Will I get bites faster on one rig than on the second? Will one of the rigs highlight better (larger) fish and the other not? In fact, I just wanted to find the differences that using fluorocarbon instead of monofilament for regular fishing would make. Location I spoke to Nicolas Beroud about these lines before my test and he said that perhaps the only significant difference would be if fished in bright sunlight. Fair enough, but most of us don't fish in these conditions. I wanted to see if any differences would show up in a "normal" situation. So I chose a fairly deep lake, about 3.6 meters deep, with a good population of small roach and perch, but also a lot of large bonus fish. There are small carp, tench, along with really large crucian carp, the average weight of which is more than a kilogram! Bonus fish could be a real test of how the lower breaking loads and knot problems inherent in fluorocarbon would manifest themselves when hooked into a strongly resisting carp, tench or crucian carp. I fished this lake in early October after a couple of cold nights that caused the water to clear up a bit. This, I believed, could give fluorocarbon a slight advantage. One last note about the location: there was a slight current on the lake, so both rigs were fitted with 1g floats to combat it.

Bait I fished this lake often in competition and used pellets to target big fish. However, now I wanted to avoid this, since I needed to see how each leash affects the presentation of the bait and then some would be able to highlight the best fish, or rather, help to better register bites. I settled on chopped worms and casters, which could attract not only small fish to the fishing zone, but also large fish. I mixed 2 kilograms of roach groundbait with a generous portion of Coco Belge (a type of chocolate groundbait) and black Terre de Somme. My idea was to start with ten large balls of groundbait with a low caster and worm content, and then feed a more concentrated mixture of caster, chopped worms and soil using a cup throughout the day. Autumn fog with hints of clearing shrouded the lake when the balls were molded and disappeared into the darkness at a distance of 11 meters. Now I had time to focus on the task of the day - leashes! Fluorocarbon and Knots I tied both types of line (fluoro and mono) using Sensas loop knitting. I tied both loops with a double-turn knot and tightened them tightly, slightly moistening them. With nylon everything turned out perfect, as I expected, but what about fluorocarbon? I decided to take a closer look at the line to see if there was any damage below the loop and to my surprise there was none. The loop was perfect, it looked smooth and neat on the line, which showed no sign of damage... A good start. I then tied on the hooks, this time using a Matchman machine. When using the machine, you must be careful to ensure that the knot is strong. I used Kamasan B611 number 16 hooks, which allow me to move freely between casters and worms throughout the fishing. Again, I found no signs of damage to the fluorocarbon line. The hook sat perfectly on the line with no signs of friction or damage to the line above the knot. So far the fluorocarbon is holding up great!

CONCLUSION 1 There were no signs of damage on the fluorocarbon leaders I selected. The fishing line proved to be easy to work with and was not particularly stiff or springy. It was a first-class result. There was no difference at all in knot quality between nylon and fluorocarbon. Start of fishing 15 minutes had already passed since the feeding, it was time to start fishing. The first time I hooked a plug with a mono leader and two casters on the hook. I slowly lowered the rig at the bait point until the float was in working position and waited. The first bite and fish were not long in coming. It was about a pound worth of carp - a good start. I switch to fluorocarbon rig, again with two casters. I waited more than 15 seconds until the float disappeared, and - an empty hook. I removed the rig and found the caster completely untouched. This repeated on the next two casts, until I finally hooked a fish - another carp. I went back to the mono rig and waited for a bite for a couple of minutes or so before catching a fish. Fluoro again - the float barely got into position before disappearing under the water... and the casters were again untouched. The same thing happened again and again throughout the first part of the fishing trip. It was obvious that with monofilament I had to wait several minutes for a bite, but I confidently detected the fish. With a fluorocarbon leash, I got instant bites, but the fish was not detected... What happened? Slowly it began to dawn on me that it seemed like the fish was hitting the line on the fluoro, while this didn’t happen on the mono! I didn’t expect this to happen at all, which is why I couldn’t understand it for so long! But once I realized what was going on, it became very obvious to me that if I wanted to prove that fluorocarbon was almost invisible to fish... it was! The fishing line touched because the fish didn’t see it!

CONCLUSION 2 If there are a lot of fish in your fishing area, it is very likely that you will have more contacts and hits on the line with a fluorocarbon leader than with a regular mono leader. This is actually not an advantage at all, since false bites are annoying and time-consuming. But this is essential... if the fish can't see your line, it will inevitably get caught on it! Fishing Progress As the day progressed, the area calmed down. I think that the starter feed attracted a lot of fish, which caused false bites. Gradually, larger fish approached the bait, displacing the small ones. I started catching excellent crucian carp mixed with single tench and small carp. All the crucians were large and resisted strongly, testing the elasticity of the fluorocarbon leader and the reliability of the knots, despite the fact that this line has a lower breaking load. I felt that the knot with which the hook was tied could be a weak point of the fluorocarbon rig, as I had read a lot about the tendency of this line to “creep” at the knots. The Kamasan B611 I was using is a powerful hook with a smooth surface and a relatively small blade, so I kept expecting the fish to break away, leaving me with a small curl of line at the end of the leader where the hook was tied. But that did not happen. I even managed to catch a couple of fish (which, in general, is not surprising) and the leash held up perfectly... Another plus for fluorocarbon!

CONCLUSION 3 On test day I did not encounter any problems with either regular line or fluorocarbon. I didn't lose a single fish or break a single lead. True, that day I did not hook a single really large carp or tench, which are abundant in the lake, but if I had specifically targeted these fish, I would not have set a 0.10 mm leader, but would have set it at least 0.14. However, given the decent size of some crucian carp and tench, both of my leashes worked equally well. Which rig got you the fastest bite? When the fishing line started to decrease, I timed the time it took for the fish to consistently approach the bait. It was a mixture of roach, crucian carp and small carp. In this short time, I was convinced that the fluorocarbon rig brought bites faster. I swapped one caster on the hook for a couple of casters on one rig or the other, and I felt the fluorocarbon rig was slightly more effective. But not by much, since I fish just as well with a mono rig. Still, in my opinion, bites happened faster on fluorocarbon equipment. By 12 o'clock the bite had weakened. On both rigs I had to wait 3-4 minutes for a bite. Deciding to play with baits, I began baiting pieces of worms, varying the size from a small piece to half a worm. I caught several perch with a worm, mainly by dragging the bait along the bottom at the feeding point. Once I started fishing this way, I noticed no noticeable difference in bite speed between the two leads. Soon after noon the bite picked up again and I started catching good crucian carp using a worm and caster sandwich. Again, the larger bait did not produce any noticeable difference in bite rates between the two rigs. I gradually began to lose the impression that fluorocarbon equipment used to bring faster bites! I tried going back to one or two casters and immediately caught a small roach. This means that now it was the large bait, and not the leash or presentation, that distinguished the large fish. This was the one area where I initially expected fluorocarbon to excel, but unfortunately the results were inconclusive. The fish in this lake, mainly crucian carp, are very “educated” and extremely picky. I tried to present the bait in the bottom layers of water as naturally as possible. All day I carefully lowered both rigs into the water, to achieve the best presentation I set the beam on both rigs very high. I would have expected that the fluorocarbon in this situation would have given me some extra bites on the falling bait, but that hasn't been the case. I was able to get a few of these bites on both rigs, but for the most part all the fish that day were caught off the bottom.

CONCLUSION 4 While fishing was done with a small stationary bait, bites on a fluorocarbon leader happened faster, but as soon as I attached a larger bait and began to move it around the baited area, all the differences disappeared. This shouldn't be too surprising, given the "invisibility" of fluorocarbon, which is essential when the fish are closely examining the bait. When using a large moving bait, the fish seem to act more boldly without paying too much attention. Final Verdict At the end of my fishing trip I felt like I had learned a lot about fluorocarbon leaders. But, like a good show, before passing judgment on the fluorocarbon leader, I must summarize the basic knowledge gained that day. Pros Mainly relate to how easy it was to work with fluorocarbon leaders. Despite the stories about fluorocarbon being stiff, knotty and weak, none of which were true, this line passed the test well. I caught a lot of fish on it over the course of almost an entire day and did not notice a single hint of unreliability or knot problems. I came away confident that fluorocarbon is more than capable of becoming a dominant leader line, especially for winter and challenging fishing conditions. Cons On the other hand, false bites caused by active fish touching the line were very annoying and can become a serious problem in the summer when fishing on commercial waters. The evidence that fluorocarbon can help you catch more fish in a day remains inconclusive. I believe that if I were fishing with one or two casters all day, the fluorocarbon leader would give me a slight advantage, but not much at all. This time there was definitely not enough evidence to say categorically that fluorocarbon helped me catch more fish.

The key question after this experience is will I use fluorocarbon again? The answer is definitely yes, but not in all situations. I will be using it in the winter for canal fishing where fishing is difficult and I feel the fluorocarbon will give me a definite advantage. I will also use it to catch white fish in clear rivers. Also for catching bleak in the upper layers of water, and, possibly, catching bream with a feeder. However, I won't completely abandon monofilament for the bulk of my fishing, as I spend a lot of time chasing big fish, often in competition. If I'm going to spend an hour waiting for a bite from a 2kg chub with a crawler on the hook, I'd rather use regular strong leader line than invisible fluorocarbon with half the breaking strength. The same can be said for many competitions when I need to fill the tank with large fish, perhaps using pellets for bait. I am not convinced that fluorocarbon will give me much of an advantage when fishing with large baits, given that false bites (touching the line) in competitions can generally be a major disadvantage. However, my final verdict on fluorocarbon at the end of this test is still POSITIVE. I enjoyed using it, the test gave me more confidence and I was able to see a number of situations, especially in difficult fishing conditions, where fluorocarbon wins, as the Italians have been demonstrating for a long time. Whether it's winter or just tough fishing conditions, fluorocarbon may be the only thing that will get you those few bites that will take away your blues on a December or January day at your local lake. The main lesson I learned from my big test is that if you don't try something new, you'll never know if it actually works or not!

David Eweng based on materials from Declic Peche, Matchangler.com and matchfishing.ru translation by Sana

Reliable knots for fluorocarbon fishing line

Not every knot is suitable for tying fluorocarbon fishing line due to its rigidity (the connection may diverge). But there are more stable knots that are perfect for fluorocarbon.

Carrot (Mahin Knot)

The carrot is suitable for tying fluorocarbon fishing line and thicker monofilament line. The second option is a bunch of thick fluorocarbon and thin braid. Let's look at an example where fluorocarbon fishing line acts as a thick line. And the thin one is braided.

Make a knot in the fluor, but do not tighten it. Thread a thin braid through it.
Make 9 turns of the braid around the fluorocarbon, away from the knot.
Then make 7 turns in the opposite direction to the knot.
Thread the braid into the knot, wet the knot and tighten.

Eight

Double figure eight and classic are excellent knots for creating loose loops. Suitable for a variety of feeder equipment.

To form a loop, fold the fishing line in half and begin to form a figure eight, as shown in the diagram below.
Then thread the end of the loop through the resulting small loop. The classic figure eight knot is ready.
Double figure eight means repeating the last action a second time. After threading the line again, wet the knot and tighten.

Grinner

A simple and reliable knot for tying swivels, baits and hooks.

Thread the fluorocarbon line through the eye of the bait or hook 2 times, then pull out 7 cm.
5 cm from the eye of the bait, grab the fishing line with two fingers that you just pulled out.
Start wrapping at least 8 turns around two lines, starting from the eye and moving towards where the line is held with your fingers.
Once you have made 8 turns, thread the end of the fishing line into the resulting loop.
Wet and tighten.

Knots for hooks with a large number of turns

The classic hook knot also holds fluorocarbon line in the knot well.

Thread the end of the fluorocarbon line through the eye on the inside of the hook.
Pull the line out 3-4 cm and begin to form a loop.
Make 4-5 turns around the hook.
And then thread the end of the fishing line into the loop formed in the second step.
Wet the line and tighten the knot.
Cut off the excess end of the fishing line with tweezers, leaving 1 mm.

Tell us about how you use this type of line. Do you have any favorite models? Have you encountered fakes? We can also discuss types of fluorocarbon coated nylon lines.

Fluorocarbon line for ice fishing

A fishing line made from a compound of fluorine and carbon is called fluorocarbon. Fluorocarbon, created by Japanese scientists, is highly frost-resistant, it is quite durable and has great wear resistance. Fluorocarbon fishing lines do not change in either extreme cold or heat. Fishing lines made of fluorocarbon do not absorb moisture and do not dry out. Water is 78 times lighter than fluorocarbon, and, as a result, the fishing line sinks faster than others.

Fluorocarbon fishing line promotes active fish biting, so it is preferable as fly fishing leashes, float rods, as well as for spinning and feeder fishing. The refractive index is similar to water, so this fishing line is not visible in the water column when compared with monofilament or braided line.

Fluorocarbon fishing line is indispensable for a leash. This line has no memory, and therefore the number of overlaps is much less; the leash returns to its original state, even if the line has to be untangled.

The next advantages of flucarbon include its wear resistance on a rocky or shell bottom of a reservoir, since it is less washable. “Flyurik” has high elasticity, which reduces possible kinks and deformation of the fishing line. Flucarbon fishing line is not suitable for pike fishing, as this predator will easily bite it. But you can get out of this situation by connecting a meter-long piece of fluorocarbon fishing line with a metal leash at the end. If you decide to spend a significant amount on the purchase of fluorocarbon fishing line, then it is better to choose products from well-known manufacturers who have positively proven themselves in the market. We offer a short overview of this gear.

TrileneFluorocarbon

- fishing line made in the USA from Berkley, which has gained popularity among famous circles. The fishing line has high strength and excellent transparency, which allows it to be used not only in amateur fishing, but also in professional fishing.

Also interesting: Trout fishing in winter

GamakatsuFluorocarbon

– flucarbon fishing line produced by the Japanese has absorbed all the best characteristics. Among other advantages, Gamakatsu easily tolerates temperature changes, and the fishing line is also not subject to deformation associated with its service life.

Riverge Competition Fluorocarbon

– high-tech carbon fishing line produced by the Kureha concern. For many years, this manufacturer was one of the two monopolists in the fishing gear segment in the production of transparent thread. Other companies were engaged in piracy, rewinding other people's fishing line onto their own spools. The Riverge brand produces a standard line in the PVDF range. This is a two-layer fishing line that combines different materials. This makes it soft and elastic.

The advantages of the fishing line include:

the knots are not untied;
there is no stretch of line,
despite its softness;
high strength material;
The declared parameters correspond to reality.

Colmie Shade

– leader line manufactured by Kureha. It has double packaging, which is very convenient for various manipulations, the line is quite soft (allows use for float fishing and feeder). The package contains an indication of the maximum weight of fish that an angler can catch. The only drawback of this brand is the discrepancy between the specified breaking load (exceeded by 1.5 times).

What is the difference between real fluorocarbon fishing line and a fake?

Currently, you can find a lot of low-quality fishing lines that are passed off as fluorocarbon.

It is quite easy to distinguish the real from the fake. It should be noted that real flucarbon fishing line is not cheap, and if the price is low enough, then it is a nylon fishing line. Any fishing line burns easily, and if you bring a match to the tip of such a fishing line, it will instantly ignite. Flucarbon line stops burning once you remove the source of fire.

To summarize, we can say that flucarbon fishing line is preferable for winter fishing, and the main advantage is its invisibility and wear resistance. But other professionals are inclined to the opinion that it makes no sense to pay a lot of money for “flurik”: domestic reservoirs are not very transparent, and the high rigidity of flucarbon fishing line will not allow you to fish with a jig.

Also interesting: Winter fishing for dace

The hardness of flucarbon has a negative impact on the quality of the components. Either they come undone easily or they cannot be tightened properly. The line has a fairly low breaking load. It is almost two times smaller than regular monofilament. Therefore, each angler must make a choice based on his own experience.

Author: (B.A.V)