Is it necessary? How far from the hook should I set it? What size should it be? What is its real return? Here is a constant set of questions that come to the editorial office every day about the shepherd.
I will try to answer them as simply and clearly as possible, but, first of all, it seems to me important to know what we are talking about. Who was the first to talk about shepherding? I confess that I have no idea about this, but in my opinion this person made a semantic error. In fact, if you consider only the words, you understand that this is a sinker that causes or indicates a bite (direct translation - “biting sinker”). This is partially true, but this is far from its only function: the most important is its influence on the forest, and especially on the bait. So it could be called a demonstration sinker." But why not make life easier and call it the “end sinker”: after all, it is nothing more than the sinker closest to the hook!
The simple fact of using this terminology allows us to answer the first of the questions: “Is it necessary?” In fact, it immediately becomes clear that unless you are using a rod with only one olive, the “last sinker” is present in any type of installation. Neither their size, nor their shape, nor the distance at which they are from the hook are of great importance: as soon as there are sinkers on the fishing rod, it means there is always the latter, and it is this that plays the role of a biting sinker. Does everyone agree with this definition? Okay, let's move on. Now we can take a closer look at what it actually serves.
As I just said, the main feature of the under-sheath is its influence on the presentation of the equipment, therefore the bait. Considering that it is the one that is closest to maggots, bloodworms or corn grains, it is easy to understand that it noticeably changes their behavior in the water mass, especially in the presence of a current. The larger the feed and the closer it is to the nozzle, the more the latter will tend to tend to the bottom. And on the contrary, the smaller the feed and the further away from the nozzle, the more the nozzle will fluctuate under the influence of water movement: it will acquire “natural” behavior, but - contrary to what is almost always written - this is not necessarily what contributes to more frequent bites.
These are the basic rules that everyone can understand, but if I stopped there, it wouldn’t be worth writing an article for D_clic. So the size and placement of the hook is paramount, but couldn't the same thing be achieved by using a large lead mounted far from the hook and a smaller one placed closer to the hook? Of course not, and these issues need to be analyzed carefully to determine the components that actually influence each of these two aspects. As for the distance to the hook, this can be the length of the bait dragging along the bottom, the type of bait, or the nature and visibility of bites, the latter depending on the size of the sinker, the type of bait used or the lifting force of the float. Although all of this is closely related, let's look at all the factors one by one.
Slack length
The longer the line lying on the bottom, the less the demonstration influence of the bite sinker. In order for this sinker to play a truly active role, it is necessary that it be as close to the bottom as possible and even at the very bottom, in an overhanging or other form. The importance of measuring the depth and subsequent adjustments immediately becomes clearer. Indeed, measuring the depth should not serve only to determine the position of the float, but also to determine the position of the sinkers, and especially the bite sinker. That is why, as I already wrote in one of my previous articles, it seems to me that after measuring the depth it would be necessary to always make two marks on the fishing rod: one for the float, and one indicating the real depth; and another higher, at a distance equivalent to the length of the lower part of the line, which would allow you to always know at what distance from the bottom the bite sinker is located.
What are the sinkers for?
The correct position of the float on the water is the key to successful fishing. Without special weights it is almost impossible to complete this task. Ensuring the correct functioning of the float is not the only advantage of loading. The purpose of the sinkers is as follows:
- bring the float rod into working condition without excessive buoyancy;
- transmit information to the float about even the smallest bite;
- help deliver the hook with bait to the fishing site along the chosen trajectory;
- do not let the bait jump off;
- keep the fishing line in a taut position, because it is in this form that it will convey accurate information about the bite;
- help to throw the equipment to the required distance;
- provide information about the condition of the hook with bait in the current.
The weights are designed to prevent the bait from jumping off.
You need to load the float only with a padding - the smallest weight of all involved. It is with its help that you can achieve perfect balancing of the gear. Compared to other elements, the under-hook is located at the shortest distance from the hook.
Fishing rods with a hook are very sensitive. Suitable for fishing both in still water and in currents. Fish are more willing to bite on such gear. Almost all bites are successful, because they are immediately transferred to the float. The main task of the bait is to detect the bite, so its weight should be minimal. This way the fish, when lifting the bait, will not feel the catch and will not fall off.
Bait type
It is a fact that the placement of sinkers in general, and the bait in particular, can vary significantly depending on the type of bait, simply because the behavior of the fish itself is not identified. The two extremes are, of course, bait with a lot of flour and groundbait. In the first case, the fish are concentrated at the bottom, and the main part of the sinkers should be concentrated in the lower part of the water column. But the bait is aimed at moving fish that move at all levels, and the weights should be distributed more evenly. Therefore, it is logical that for fishing with bait, the bait should be further away from the hook than for fishing with flour-based bait. But here we are talking only about general data: in practice, everything is much more complicated, in particular when fishing with bait, and when you start to lure fish, especially if you do it with a mixture that forms suspended clouds in the water, and this mixture is not very compacted. Then you find yourself in an intermediate situation, where the distance from the sinker to the hook is also related to the correct interpretation of bites, as well as the presentation of the bait.
Subtleties of float fishing and rigs with subs
On the river I often fish with both blind and running rigs at the same time, using two different rods. This method of shore fishing allows you, if necessary, to take advantage of all the advantages of each tackle, which can be a great help when you have problems with biting!
I choose a section of the river where the depths at a distance of 20-30 m downstream are approximately the same. I assemble a flywheel “seven” with a blind rig and a float with a carrying capacity of 2 g. With test casts, I measure the bottom in front of me in a short retrieve section - I set the working descent and feed a bunch of dense balls. Then I assemble a 4 m match fishing rod with a reel and a Bolognese float with a carrying capacity of about 4 g. I set the working descent so that the hook goes almost to the bottom. Long-distance fishing follows the same stream where the bait for the fly rod lies.
Now I have room for two completely different fishing rods - both one and the other, or only one, can work normally - it’s impossible to know in advance.
I start fishing with a swing opposite me and a little downstream. Usually the first thing that comes up for complementary feeding is the small stuff, which is much more effective when caught with a blind rig. The approach of larger fish usually begins after an hour; sometimes you won’t be able to wait for the approach in the fly zone. But often, quite unexpectedly, bites begin when moving a long-distance matcha - downstream, and often not far away - with the same stroke you do not reach the zone of these bites for several meters.
But this is the most optimistic course of events. It happens that there are no bites at all on the fly or there are only fry endlessly, and you find the fish when the float is released far away at 40-50 meters, and it absolutely does not want to come up for feeding! But it happens that long casting does not work at all, and only the swing helps, including large fish. It happens differently, but in any case, two tackles make it possible to fish the river more tightly. And in general, such fishing on the river, with a weak bite, is much more effective and interesting.
With two assistants
How to accurately select the weight of the pad and its size for the float equipment? If you place a small pellet near the hook, it’s good; when the fish sucks in the hook with the bait, it will feel less of the lead mass, and there is less chance that it will spit out the hook. However, a small feed on most floats weakly shows a bite “on the rise”, especially on a wave or when fishing at long distances, that is, it does not perform its main task well. If you put in a heavy bait that “lifts” the float well, the tackle becomes coarser, and the fish, as soon as it touches the bait, immediately spits it out, especially in the fall, when the bites are often quick and “thievish.” If you move the pod far from the hook, you won’t see the rise at all. On the river it’s okay, but in standing water there is a significant disadvantage.
I found a compromise solution - I use two backups. The weight of each is from 0.15 to 0.25 g - depending on the fishing conditions and, accordingly, the carrying capacity of the float. One pellet is clamped 2-4 cm from the hook, the other - 6-8 cm. The point here is this: the equipment breaks the bite into two main phases, which are marked by a float. The fish bites, the fish sucks in the bait, lifting the first bait at the hook, the float floats up slightly. If I see this surfacing and the bait is compact, then I immediately hook it – it’s there, it’s sitting. If I don’t see it, then the following usually happens: taking the bait into its mouth, the fish, which was standing at an angle, straightens out, lifting with this movement the second sub-weight, standing higher on the leash. The float also rises additionally, and this phase of the bite is usually already clearly visible.
Be that as it may, fishing with a fishing rod with two subs turned out to be more successful than with one, equal to two small ones. True, a lot depends on the method of baiting. For example, when fishing for crucian carp, two subs work perfectly only if the hook tip is hidden in a worm or bloodworm. Apparently the crucian carp, having got stuck on the hook in the initial biting phase, quickly spat it out, and there is no point in a second feeding.
As for the bream, I noticed that heavy feeding does not bother it. This fish easily and carefreely sucks up the bait with its “vacuum cleaner”, paying little attention to the weight of the bait of 0.3 and even 0.5 g. But this is when the fish is active at the feeding point. When the bream is cautious, then two assistants turn out to be just in place. But best of all, a couple of pods work their job on large roaches, which more often than other fish spit out heavy pods.
Character of bites
The closer the bait is to the hook, the clearer and faster the bite is transmitted to the float, but the greater the chance for the fish to detect it and, therefore, spit out the bait. Once again you are convinced that it is necessary to take into account one particularly changeable parameter - the mood of the fish! You can even come to the following paradox: the most effective placement of sinkers is not the one that allows you to better see bites. In this case, I don’t hesitate for a second: I prefer to have a little less bites, but few missed ones, than to spend time doing false strikes, or removing a completely sucked bait. The distance between the hook and the sinker is of great importance here, but the size of the sinker is still more important. The larger it is (and therefore heavier), the more the float is destabilized when the fish grabs the bait. That is why I am not at all a supporter of using very small pellets as a bite sinker, of course, with the exception of the case when using floats with very little lifting force.
Float size
So, the largest bite sinker, but this does not mean that you need to put N 6 on a float weighing 0.5 g! I am absolutely convinced that the size of the bite sinker is closely related to the size Micro beads are used only with the smallest bobbers and a mud worm on the hook Large bait does not work well with a small bite sinker, and vice versa float, and vice versa, I have never been able to understand why install N 13 for a river fishing rod with a sinker weighing 2 g. Not only will such a sinker have no effect on the presentation of the bait, but how can moving such a small mass transfer the bite well to the level of the float? But, with the advent of large flat floats and fishing with rod locking, you can safely use huge bite weights (up to one or two explosives, i.e. from 0.40 to 0.80 g!). In the end, if you calculate the percentage difference between the weight of the bite sinker and the total weight of the fishing rod, in other words, if you install an N 10 sinker for a float weighing 1 g, then for a flat float weighing 40 g you need an SSG sinker (i.e. weighing 1.6 G!). It is worth dwelling on another issue, the diameter of the antenna, or the surface part of the float; It’s equally stupid to use a large sinker if the float has a thin metal antenna or fiberglass antenna, and to use an N 13 pellet complete with a plastic or bamboo float with a diameter of 2 mm for catching carp!
How to load a float for long-distance casting
First of all, you need to buy a suitable float. It should be specifically for long casts. This type of gear has a long antenna and high sensitivity. Arrow-shaped floats with a center of gravity at the bottom have proven themselves well. They have improved aerodynamic qualities, providing a longer flight range. When the choice is made, you can begin loading.
A correctly completed shipment is considered when the entire top of the float is above the water, and its volumetric part is completely immersed in water. You can carry out the process of preparing a float for long-distance fishing on site, but it is better to spend this time profitably and carry out the adjustment in advance at home.
Nozzle type
In the water, the bait - or rather the hook with the bait - has a certain weight that must be taken into account. The mass of the mud worm can be neglected, since more than 95% of the worm consists of water. It’s a completely different matter when it comes to wheat or corn grains. Therefore, it seems to me important to use a bite weight that matches the weight of the bait, i.e. do not put N 13 if the bait is corn, and vice versa, N 6 if the bait is bloodworm on N 22. I emphasize that in this case, this has nothing to do with the size of the float: thus, for specific fishing for carp, for example, you have to use a fishing rod of large diameter, a large hook with two grains of corn, but a float whose mass does not exceed 0.30 g. So, in this case, you can safely use a bite sinker N 8 and even N 6. Trying to be more clear and precise, I I intentionally omitted various factors that influence the choice of a bite sinker, but do not forget that in the fishing process all these factors are closely intertwined. However, don’t grab your head; after all, if there’s no bite, it’s not at all difficult to change or move the sinker!
Nicolas Beru
Article from the site https://matchfishing.ru
