Universal spinning rod - one for spinners, wobblers and jigs

Like some other fishing topics, universal spinning constantly causes controversy and differing opinions from experts. Some fishermen believe that a spinning player’s arsenal should be narrowly focused - for each method, for example, jigs or wobblers, you need your own stick. However, most ordinary amateurs do not need several rods - they are looking for one universal one for all fishing conditions.

Spinning station wagon - myth or reality

The only accurate statement is that the best universal spinning rod does not exist. Versatility can also vary. One angler needs a spinning rod for twitching 130 wobblers and heavy jigs, another – for light wobblers, spoons, regular jigs, up to 30 grams. The third is a light version for microjig and small cranks. It all depends on the habits of the fisherman, the fishing conditions in the places in which he fishes.

Let’s not argue here which approach is better. For some, it is better to collect a collection of rods, each of which is designed for certain conditions. Others simply don’t need it - they need a universal spin for a certain number of fishing trips in the appropriate seasons, for example, for pike, pike perch in the fall, and at other times - just to play around, for fun. Both views have the right to life - there is no point in arguing.

You need to understand that the extremes in the sharpening of a particular rod for a particular bait provide great opportunities in the use of this particular method of fishing. Universal rods are like an average version. They cannot be super sensitive for jigging, and at the same time even better for twitching wobblers at the same time. But they allow you to use both baits when fishing with one universal stick, which is often quite enough for an ordinary fisherman, not an athlete.

To choose the right universal spinning rod, you first need not to look for a specific model, but to figure out what exactly you need for yourself. And then choose based on the required system, test, length, and other characteristics.

Detailed article about the types of spinning rods

Tubular or Solid? Which spinning rod to choose for microjig fishing?

Fine tackle, which is any microjig spinning rod, requires a certain subtle approach to its selection. This approach consists of choosing the type of rod tip, which can be hollow, part of the form (Tubular Tip) or glued in, monolithic, i.e. without voids inside (Solid Tip). In addition, you need to understand the principles of using spinning rods with one or another type of tip. Let's figure it out...

1. The hollow tip (Tubular) provides better sensitivity “in the hand” - you will more clearly feel the weight falling to the bottom. However, the wiring will be more difficult to trace visually, i.e. along the tip of the spinning rod.

2. A solid tip (Solid) allows you to visually track what is happening with a bait of very scanty weights along the tip, but it will respond worse in your hand. Monolithic tips are usually made of fiberglass - it is more flexible than carbon fiber.

A simple example for understanding:

Let's say you have two identical mid-budget spinning rods with a test of 0.5-6 grams of the same length. One has a Solid tip, the other has a Tubular tip. A shallow river with almost no current with a large number of reaches. Cheburashkas of the same weight plus bait.

Let's start with a weight of 1.2 grams. The solid will show a fall along the tip on almost any ground, along the fishing line - especially since it won’t hit your hand. The tubular will hardly show at the tip, but along the fishing line it’s fine, and it won’t hit your hand yet.

Further, 2 grams, the picture is still the same, only the tubular will show a little better at the tip as the weight increases. The solid will play with all its might with the tip, the tubular, if the bottom is hard, will only begin to play normally with the tip.

2.5 grams - the solid plays with the tip, the tubular knocks weakly and every now and then.

At 3 grams, the tubular begins to show its capabilities - it knocks on almost any bottom, and at the tip everything is visible in the same way as on the solid at 2 grams. The solid on a hard bottom at 3 grams begins to knock slightly and still shows the tip perfectly on any bottom.

From 4 grams the solid begins to knock well on a medium and hard bottom, and there’s nothing to say about the tip - it does its job with a plus. The tubule is knocking, everything is fine.

5 grams - the top of the solid moves back and forth very much, but everything is fine with it - it can bend like crazy! It knocks, of course, but it feels like it’s on the edge. Then it may start to fail. The tubular can easily handle 5 grams and will handle the upper limit of 6 grams.

You shouldn’t overload the solid, it’s better to underload it a little. The flexible and very sensitive tip makes adjustments. You can overload the tube by a gram, but you don’t need to, it will sag a little.

Thus, now you can understand the very meaning of how a microjig spinning rod works with one or another type of tip and choose the one that is best suited for your tasks.

Obviously, a spinning rod with a Solid tip is more suitable for delicate fishing with the smallest weights and requires more visual attention to control the retrieve and bite.

A spinning rod with a Tubular tip is somewhat rougher, but it allows you to fish in more extreme conditions than a spinning rod with a solid tip - it is not so afraid of the current, which can easily “turn off” the delicate and flexible solid tip from working.

Read other articles, reviews and testimonials:

Review of Tict Ice Cube IC-69F, IC-69P and IC-69D spinning rods. Reviews from fishermen about the Tikt Ice Cube spinning rod
Review of the Aiko Baltasar II spinning rod. Reviews from fishermen about the spinning rod Aiko Baltazar
Review of the Pontoon 21 Kalikana wobbler. Reviews from anglers about the wobbler Ponton 21 Kalikana
Review of the Rapala Countdown wobbler. Anglers' reviews of the Rapala Countdown wobbler
Review of the Maximus Wild Power X spinning rod. Reviews of fishermen about the Maximus Wild Power X spinning rod

Manifestations of versatility in spinning fishing

The spinning station wagon can be different. Therefore, before looking for it, you need to clearly understand what it is for. Then you can start selecting a model based on the appropriate characteristics.

An ordinary universal spinning rod for a beginner or a person who just needs a pike stick for regular spinners and other lures weighing up to 40 grams is a standard rod of 2.1-2.7 meters with a test weight of 5-25, 10-30 grams. This is probably the most common model on the market. It will be Fast, or ExtraFast in terms of structure - a person usually chooses according to his own habits, based on tests in the store.

More advanced anglers buy more expensive poles with a progressive action. The moderate fast action under light loads (on casting, when twitching) works like a fast action, but when fishing, the entire form bends.

Nowadays, fiberglass rods are becoming less common on sale. Carbon fiber and graphite have become cheaper, even budget poles are made from carbon. It is more likely to find composite fishing rods, fiberglass with carbon fiber, in the budget segment. Such sticks are cheap, reliable, but heavy - they are suitable for a beginner in jigs and spinners, but it is almost impossible to work with wobblers with them, except perhaps on a straight line.

For the first steps in spinning for spinners or jigs, Chinese telescopic spinning rods for 300 rubles with a Kaido reel are suitable. But they won’t be able to catch effectively in difficult conditions.

On carbon rods, the grade of material is IM6, IM8, the higher, the newer and more expensive. However, higher carbon fiber is fragile and needs to be handled with care. For a station wagon, the IM5, IM6 brands are more suitable, no more (for the average amateur). There will be no need to blow away dust particles from such a rod and carefully monitor transportation.

Thus, if we are looking for universal gear, we consider among the usual plugs, two-piece, carbon IM 5-6. But we select the length, test, and tuning based on the required characteristics, depending on what for.

Jig, twitching, spinners

The simplest and most popular option is a universal spin for pike 10-30 grams or close to this range. Or lighter – up to 15 grams for lighter baits – whichever you prefer. Most simple spinning anglers, who don’t particularly bother with fishing, need gear for rare trips to a body of water to catch pike or perch, something like these universal rods. No theoretical problems with the test or structure. In addition to the usual turntables or oscillators, it is suitable for the basics of jigs, and for uniform or intermittent wiring of large cranks and medium minnows.

Rudra 130 mm

For twitching the now popular 130 wobblers, which, with the proper skill, mow down pike, such a stick will not be suitable - it simply will not push these stubborn baits as needed during the jerk. For regular fishing, you can choose any suitable spinning rod from the nearest fishing store, but not for wobblers.
If the angler’s claims to fishing and the capabilities of his gear are higher (read – you need twitching with a jig at the same time) – it’s worth diving deeper and studying the issues described below. Such spinning rods really exist, they are specially manufactured, positioned as universal.
We will consider the expansion of versatility specifically in conjunction with jigging and twitching at the same time. It is these fishing methods that have mutually exclusive requirements for rods that are difficult to combine in one spinning rod. You can throw spinners with any rod.
To twitch wobblers, roughly speaking, you need a short stake, up to 2 meters, fast or super-fast, with a fairly powerful tip, and a short, spaced handle. Otherwise, the rudra, rope, and other large wobblers will not be able to be presented correctly to the pike.
For jigging, it is better to have a long rod with a thin elastic tip that acts when moving with a step. An ideal jig stick on a wobbler will fail; the long butt will be inconvenient to twitch. On a wobbler with a short, hard stick, the jig will not be felt at all.
Let's add soft and hard twitching to this. If you can still pull the wobbler softly, you can’t pull it hard (with a jig stick). Plus the caliber ratio - with a heavy all-rounder for a Heavy jig it is impossible to throw far and feel small wobblers, and with a light one you cannot pull through stubborn large ones.

Build, test, length

Thus, a universal spinning rod for jigs and wobblers can be of different calibers:

Heavy - for 130 wobblers, jigs from 14 grams, and better - 18 g and above.
Medium – wobblers 70-100 mm, jig 8-16 grams.
Light or ultralight - for small wobblers and microjigs, with a tubular tip.

In ultralight, fast-action spinning rods with a tubular tip - a regular hollow one, made of the same material as the whole rod - are suitable. Solid tops made of glued soft fiberglass will not allow working with wobblers.

Thus, when looking for a universal fishing rod, you need to choose approximately one of the calibers and tune in to it. If twitching 130s is more important, we take up to 35 grams, it will allow you to fish with jigs and medium wobblers. However, a light jig for such a test of 12-15 grams will not knock on the hand - only visually, on the fishing line. And medium wobblers will not be sensitively felt, and with strong jerks they can twist. But you can adapt to this.

The medium caliber (15-20 grams of the upper test) is more convenient for jigging, it taps sensitively in the hand on medium scales, it works normally with 70-90 wobblers, but with 110, 130 - only soft twitch. Stubborn baits, like rudra, may not be pulled through at all.

In all these combinations, the most critical are the universal characteristics related to wobblers. If it’s too rough for the jig, it’s okay, you can adapt to detect the action of the bait or the bite according to the sag of the cord. However, if it’s too soft for a wobbler, nothing can be done, you’ll have to look for another rod.

Summarizing all of the above, we conclude that a universal rod should be of medium length, 2.1-2.4 meters, fast action, prickly, but not quite like pure twitching sticks. We select the test depending on the required caliber of bait.

In our conditions, when the main object is pike, which means you need to work with large wobblers, you need a fast, prickly rod of 2.1-2.4 m with a weight of up to 30-35 grams. It will also allow you to fish with jigs from 14 grams, spinners, and medium wobblers. You can also throw them small wobblers weighing 8-10 grams, but not far. We prefer wobblers – then 2.1 m, the test is higher. If the jig is 2.4 meters, the test is smaller. The longer, the softer - the better for soft twitching, not hard, but better for sensitivity in jigs.

Bombarda, donka, float

The universal spin can also be considered in terms of its use in completely different directions - with a bombard, or as a float rod, donkey. However, such areas of application are more likely not from spinning rods at all, but with their own criteria for the characteristics of the rod. In principle, on the universal we have selected for jigs and wobblers, you can put a bombard or bottom equipment, if necessary, and fish.

Article about fishing with a spinning rod and a bombard

For beginners about quivertypes (tops) of the feeder

The reason for writing this note was a recent incident with a friend of mine. He bought a feeder rod via the Internet, but discovered that the test of the stiffest tip was less than the test of the rod. Having read that the test of the tip should coincide with the test of the rod, I decided to buy an additional tip with the corresponding test, and it costs neither more nor less than $30. I had to advise him not to do anything stupid. This is, firstly. Secondly, some beginners, for example, someone “mehanik”, asks the question: “... why cock the quivertip to an angle of 90?”

And a certain “Anatoly” writes: “the test shows at what weight of the load it will bend at an angle of 90*, which is important for registering a bite. But this is completely incomprehensible.” Consequently, despite the fact that there is plenty of material on this topic, the problem exists, including for some readers of the site.

Let's give food to the commentators and start with the statement that the tip or quivertip, strictly speaking, is not part of the rod. Actually, the rod or blank is everything up to the tip, and the tip is just a bite alarm. The same addition to the fishing rod as an electronic alarm or bells. Moreover, the quivertype, like a violin, is a customizable signaling device. What does the tip test mean? It means that in order to bend the tip at an angle of 90* relative to its own axis, a force must be applied to the tip of the tip perpendicular to this axis no less than that specified in the test. But only. Usually this force is taken to be the weight of the feeder, but this is not entirely correct. We'll tell you why below.

By analogy with the blank, it is widely believed that the tip test cannot be exceeded due to its inevitable breakage. But that's not true. It is almost impossible to break the tip by bending (and not by breaking). If the tip is of high quality (that is, not Chinese), it can be tied in a knot like a hose without any consequences for it

Is it possible to throw a weight of, say, 70g with a 1 ounce (28 grams) dough tip? Can. The tip is not involved in casting and therefore does not experience any dynamic loads.

Then why these tests? And then, for the human eye, both linear and angular movements in the direction perpendicular to the line of sight are more noticeable. Since during fishing we follow the rod, as a rule, along its axis, a careful bite will be visible the better the closer the tip is to an angle of 90 * in relation to our line of sight, and in fact, to the blank. When performing the quivertype test, the manufacturer says at what minimum effort this can be achieved. By selecting an appropriate tip for the conditions, we improve the sensitivity of the gear. Since the tip test is a purely arbitrary value, sometimes the manufacturer does not indicate it. In this case, the relative rigidity can be determined by the amount of deflection, holding the quivertypes by the tulip in weight. In this case, the softest tip is intended for the loads of the lower third of the test of the rod, the middle one is for the middle third, and the hard one is for the upper third. The same can be true for a rod without test. For example, my rod does not have a test listed, and the stiffest tip is 6 ounces. From this we can assume that the test rod is 170g, but in the commercial they throw 200g. I haven’t thrown more than 150g yet.

Let's look at an example: we are fishing in still water. For some reason (we talked about this in previous articles), we chose a feeder weighing 70g, and taking into account the bait, it will pull 110g. Question: which tip should I choose? We know that immediately after the feeder falls to the bottom, it is advisable to empty it of food (see Beginners about bait). It would seem that in this case we would adjust the tackle according to the feeder’s own weight. At the same time, if you focus only on weight, then the optimal tip will be with a dough of no more than 2.5 ounces. Then, if after casting you position the rod perpendicular to the line and take out the slack, then such a tip will bend at an angle of 90*. If we only have 2 and 3 ounces in the set, then we set it to 2. If we don’t have 2 ounces, but there are 1.5 ounces, we set it to 1.5. We put 3 ounces or more only when less is not available. There are plenty of similar or similar arguments on the Internet.

But on the other hand, it must be borne in mind that after selecting the slack, a tip that is too soft may turn out to be overtightened, which will lead to a limitation of its free play and, consequently, to a decrease in sensitivity. If we set the top according to the total weight of the equipped feeder, that is, 4 ounces (there are such tips on the Internet), then after we free the feeder from food or after a couple of minutes it frees itself, the top will “win back” and it will no longer be possible to put it in the desired position. Careful bites will become less noticeable until they are completely unregistered. We see that there is a certain “corridor of maximum sensitivity” of the quivertype (or, if you like, “optimal visual perception of the bite”) limited from below, so to speak, by the “constriction”, and from above by the “understretch” of the tip.

But during its cocking, the tip is affected, in addition to the weight of the feeder, by the force of friction on the bottom, which depends on the structure of the bottom, the weight and design of the feeder. Depending on this force, the optimal quivertype test will obviously be somewhat greater than the feeder’s own weight. (I think this is where the misconception comes from that the quivertype test should be equal to the total weight of the load being thrown. But, as we will see, this is not always the case, not even the case at all). Thus, the corridor of maximum sensitivity shifts towards larger tests.

If we fish in a current, then in addition to the weight of the feeder, the force of the current additionally acts on the tip. If the rod is located parallel to the shore, then, depending on the direction of the current, the too soft tip can be either additionally bent (that is, overtightened) or straightened. Both of these impair the visual perception of the bite. Therefore, it is also advisable to use a stiffer tip. Whatever the load does not pull will be pulled by the current. In this case, it is better to place the rod on the shore or with a quiver tip against the current, which will further bend it rather than unbend it, or in a vertical plane.

If the strength of the current constantly changes from strong to weak (for example, below a hydroelectric power station), then, if the distance allows, there is a temptation, depending on the strength of the current, to use feeders of different weights, since light feeders are easier to work with. It would seem that the quivertype, adapted to a heavy feeder for the current, already noticeably loses sensitivity in its absence (due to the fact that it straightens) and vice versa. Not to mention changing the weight of the feeder. It is not difficult to replace the feeder, but changing the top depending on the weight of the feeder several times a day is not easy. But in general, such a trick is acceptable within the maximum sensitivity corridor. For example, if we have a fast-action rod, then from my experience I determine the corridor of maximum sensitivity for a 3-ounce tip to be approximately 60-90 grams of the feeder’s own weight. And for a 4 ounce top – 80-120g.

This means that, depending on the situation, a tip with, say, 3 ounces of dough will be comfortable enough for us to register weak bites with weights ranging from 60 to 90 grams. That is, depending on the situation, the feeder’s own weight can be changed within these limits. If we have a rod with 120g test, then with a 4 ounce tip you won’t get around. There is no choice here. The rod test is 120 grams - this takes into account the weight of the bait, while the own weight of the feeder will be exactly 80g. But with this weight, a 3 ounce tip works much more effectively! Tips with a test that matches or is close to the test of the rod are intended mainly for weakly eroded baits and non-erosive heavy baits. There is no point in using them with quickly eroding baits.

In these conditions, a slow action rod gives more room for maneuver. The blank’s own bending partially compensates for the insufficient bending of the too-rigid tip, which in total gives an angle between the line of sight and the tulip, if not optimal, then close to it. In other words, a quivertip with a parabolic has a wider corridor of maximum sensitivity. So, for a quivertype of 3 ounces, it is approximately 50-90g of the feeder’s own weight, and for 4 ounces it is 60-120g. That is, if we have a parabolic rod with a test of 150 grams, then with a quivertip of 4 ounces we have an almost universal rod for any amateur fishing conditions.

I note that you cannot personally test all existing fishing rods and quivertips, so criticism regarding the given figures is not accepted. Moreover, these numbers are subjective. They can be obtained either from your own practice or as follows. We take the rod by the butt in our hands and ask our wife to pull the tulip with an electronic dynamometer. When he takes the minimum position convenient for us, we record the dynamometer readings. Let's say 70 grams. Taking into account friction on the bottom (from 5 to 15% of the weight of the feeder, depending on its design and the bottom), 60g of the weight of the feeder can be taken as the real figure for the lower limit. It is impossible to determine the upper limit with a dynamometer, since the force increases nonlinearly and it is difficult to say where the line is when weak bites will still be registered. Therefore, the quivertype test can be taken as the upper limit. If the test is 4 ounces, then approximately 120 grams. Let's not forget that in this case, taking into account friction on the bottom, 135-140 grams will actually act on it. And taking into account the current, up to 160.

So, the initial data for choosing a tip are: the feeder’s own weight and its design, the structure of the bottom, the strength of the current and the diameter of the cord, which can reduce or increase the influence of the current. Moreover, each quivertype has its own corridor of maximum sensitivity, and its test is just initial information for reflection, and not an unconditional guide to action. That is why it (the test) is sometimes not indicated.

All of the above matters only when biting carefully in sport fishing. In most cases, the fish that are allowed to be caught have enough strength for the bite to be noticeable with any quivertype. Especially if we are parabolic and we didn’t come for minnows. At one time, for a whole season, my first “feeder rod” was a Chinese telescopic fast-action spinning rod with a Chinese reel. The whole “set” cost about $30. It is still in the closet. I won’t say that at the ranges where this spinning rod reached, I began to catch noticeably more now, having branded gear. Of course, if we are talking about fish, and not about “cat's joy”. At these distances I began to catch more small things, but before the hook often turned out to be “naked” in the absence of a bite. No tail, no scales.

Valery FEDOROV

Read useful articles:

Quivertip – feeder tip

Budget universal spinning rod

Next, we will consider specific models of universal spinning rods for beginners and experienced fishermen who want to equip one comfortable tackle in the realities of our country, mostly for pike, pike perch or large perch. By the word budget we don’t mean cheap, low-quality consumer goods, but a really decent level, let’s say, the minimum of good ones, which will allow you to comfortably fish normally at full speed.

Of course, these are, first of all, Chinese spinning rods. The time when China was spat on is over. In addition, most fishing rods are now made in China, but under the brands of cool companies. At the same time, there is nothing special in the design - an additional payment goes for the brand. Only a small portion of the most expensive models are made in Japan, the USA or Europe. The overwhelming majority are made in the Middle Kingdom to order, then sent to the company, where the name and packaging are attached to the finished form - and to the store.

No matter how trivial it sounds, the cheapest place to find a normal spinning rod without paying extra for the brand is in China, that is, with Aliexpress. For 1500-2000 rubles you can find the same quality as in fishing stores for 4000-5000. There are a lot of consumer goods on Ali - so you need to search wisely. I have already described this process in the article: how to look for catchy wobblers on aliexpress

The system is the same with spinning rods, but you also need to consider the issue of good packaging upon delivery, since the product is relatively fragile. Next, let's look at the spinning rods that I use with my own hands - and am very pleased with. There are many more worthy rods from Ali - I will describe them in more detail in another article. Let’s take a closer look at the models that fit well into the concept of universal spinning rod.

Read more: good Chinese spinning rods from aliexpress

Jonco spinning rods

In my personal top of universal spinning rods, the first place is occupied by the Johncoo Sword model. Even better, more convenient, a little lighter - Jonko Booster. But it costs 3500 (approximately). And Sword is 2 times cheaper. The sword may seem like a cudgel at first, especially for someone who likes fine tackle. However, after pulling out a couple of snags or a pike of 5 kilos, you will appreciate its power. And at the same time, working with standard baits - I have 21 gram atom spinners, a jig (14 grams knocks in the hand only without wind on thin braid), does not cause difficulties or any feeling of roughness (and it PUTS Rudra and Kanata). The workmanship is better than some of the more expensive spinning rods from our stores. The blank itself is reliable, this season I used it to catch a pike at 7400. A short spaced handle made of Eva, a reliable reel seat, a hook ring, and an anti-twist tulip on each tip. Delivery is fast (from Moscow), free, packaging - in a bubble wrap and a tight tube.

For 1500-2000 rubles we get two spinning rods in one - two tips included. M – with test 7-25, MN – 10-35. I often fish with a light tip, a jig from 14 grams feels better, 130 wobblers pull normally and throw far. I also tried a powerful one - a real stake, the rudra twitches only on the way, but for a jig - it’s too wooden.

Of all the budget all-rounder spinning rods that I have owned, this one is a workhorse plus the best price-quality ratio. Another 5 pieces from stores at the same price are broken in the garage. Cheap and reliable, you’re not afraid to break it when playing – but it doesn’t break. A similar model is Booster, more expensive, 2500 rubles, with the same characteristics. More beautiful inserts and outer braiding have been added - that is, theoretically it is even stronger. There is both a regular universal spinning version for a spinning reel, and a casting version with a trigger for a multiplier reel.

For heavy jigs, the Gladiator test from the same store is suitable. Naturally, with such characteristics, it will also carry 130. This model is more for deep rivers with a current, for pike perch, channel pike.

Links to the official store (tested more than once, it works):

Jonko Sword: 7-25, 10-35: https://ali.pub/42otlq

Jonko Booster: https://ali.pub/42ovsa

Jonko Gladiator 10-35, 15-40: https://ali.pub/42ow81

Doyu spinning rods

A normal, cheap, universal spinning rod for beginners can also be found in the JinTai store. This is the same factory that used to flood our fishing stores with cheap Doyu telescopes. Now Doyu is no longer the same - for the better. Jintai Doyu has made money over the past two decades and now makes high-quality rods at a fraction of the price - China has decided to seriously push the Japanese out of the market. For 1500 you can actually find a spinning rod, the same as the Japanese for 3-4 thousand.

The simplest popular Fast-ExtraFast station wagon is the Black Dragon model. Test 5-25, same as Jonko Sword with an easy tip. For general purposes, the fast Perfect Carbon is also suitable.

Official Jin Tai store.

Doyu Black Dragon 7-35 gr: https://ali.pub/42ox7t

PERFECT CARBON 10-30 g: https://ali.pub/42owpx

I’m more impressed, of course, by Jonko – it feels stronger and works better with wobblers. The set includes two tops for the same price, the look is more beautiful, there is a casting option, and, most importantly, delivery in a tube. Doyu's packaging is simply in a box, tightly wrapped in bubble wrap. Both companies are being sold out in Russia. Therefore, spinning rods have already been delivered to us, and delivery takes a few days from Moscow. Here the Chinese are great, they helped with the logistics, the product is worthy.

Jonco Packaging

JinTai-Doyu Packaging

Increasing the sensitivity of the spinning rod

Author:

Only users with a rating above 20 can see the voting results (who voted and how).
Jig is one of the most popular methods of spinning fishing. And, like any other type of fishing, it requires the selection of special gear. In addition to the traditional requirements for spinning rods - casting range, the maximum possible lightness and balance, the ability to “cut through” the fish and not let it break while fishing by restraining jerks, reliability - a spinning rod for jigging requires “sense.” That is, the rod’s ability to tactilely transmit a signal to the angler about what is happening under water - whether a fish bite, a bait with a load, encountered some obstacle or fell to the bottom.

I believe that almost all rods are now capable of transmitting a bite from even small fish. But with the bait falling to the bottom, not everything is so simple. Indeed, under certain conditions, the signal coming from the other end can be either clearly felt or barely noticeable, or even not felt at all.

The signal quality is influenced by the following main factors: 1) bottom type (rocky, sandy, clayey, silty, etc.). Naturally, (other things being equal) on a hard bottom the moment the bait falls is felt quite clearly, and vice versa - the softer the bottom, the weaker the signal 2) the presence of wind and current, waves on the water - it is logical that these factors worsen signal transmission, and they are even able to drown it out completely 3) casting range and depth at the fishing site - here, I think, everything is also clear: the greater the distance to the bait (further, deeper), the worse the signal is felt - the angler is practically unable to influence the factors listed above , and is forced to put up with the conditions that are present at the fishing site. 4) the weight of the bait/sinker: a heavier sinker gives a more powerful signal, and vice versa 5) the diameter of the fishing line/braid used: the smaller the diameter, the better the signal is transmitted - to increase the overall sensitivity of the tackle, the angler has the opportunity to “juggle” the weight of the sinker and the thickness of the braid , but not ad infinitum, but within the framework required by the conditions and the object of fishing. 6) spinning rod (material, wall thickness and taper of the blank, size and location of the rings, power of the rod relative to the baits used) - the choice of rod (naturally, suitable for the fishing conditions) is entirely in the hands of the fishermen.

So what to do if you are not satisfied with the sensitivity of your spinning rod? As mentioned earlier, you can try: 1) fish in a different place or under other, more favorable conditions, 2) use a heavier load and/or thinner line.

But there are cases when this is impossible or insufficient. What then? There is only one thing left to do - look for a new spinning rod. And nowhere more than in jigging have I come across more fierce debates about the suitability of a particular spinning rod for jigging and its notorious “feeling”.

It is believed, and not without reason, that the most sonorous spinning rods are not cheap, since their production uses high-density graphite and a minimal amount of binder.

I think this is true, but wait until you change your spinning rod for another one. Perhaps, with the help of simple manipulations, it will be possible to make your “mop” “knock on the liver.”

No, my jig spinning rods could in no way be called mops. Yes, they are not the most expensive - quite budget models. But they are reliable, I like their design, and in principle they coped with their tasks. And then, I (after some experience with various, expensive and cheap, rods) had a strong conviction that if you really want a “knock”, you need to get a couple of rods with different tests, and fish with weights in the upper part of the test of the rod. In my case, these are two spinning rods, with tests of 5-20 and 10-30 g - respectively, when using loads up to 20 g, I usually used the first spinning rod, heavier than 20 g - the second, and in principle it worked out well.

But, I am a living person, an avid fisherman, and like all living avid fishermen, I am always in search of the ideal, and I wanted to find something new for myself. Since the choice in local stores is limited, you have to select and order spinning rods remotely. Therefore, before choosing any model, I (as a sapper who cannot make mistakes) decided to carefully study the offers on the market. Long evenings spent reading technical descriptions and reviews of dozens of spinning rods eventually led me to the topic of spinning rod construction. On one of the popular forums, in a thread dedicated to rodbuilding, I accidentally came across a description of replacing the handle. The person who ordered this service was in approximately the same position as me - he had a spinning rod that completely satisfied him, but still he ordered a rod builder to replace the handle with a more aesthetic one. He posted a photo of the process and casually mentioned that the previous reel seat was installed incorrectly - on a layer of cardboard. The correct way is to install the reel seat on the arbors.

I didn’t have much to lose, so, armed with a tool (a utility knife, a screwdriver and pliers), I removed the handles from my spinning rods. I cut enough of the eva with a knife, but I had to tinker with the reel seat. But, as they say, there is no trick against scrap. I removed the remaining stuck eva and glue from the form with fine sandpaper.

I found a rather thick layer of cardboard under the reel seats. I am sure that it was this layer that reduced the sensitivity of the spinning rod. After all, the signal is transmitted through the cord to the coil, and from it to the reel seat. In this very place we usually keep the spinning rod.

I ordered a couple of sets of handles with reel seats from the online store. I chose the spaced option. One set is made of cork, the second is made of eva, stylized as camouflage. In general, on the Internet you can find almost any version of the handle - solid or spaced, from different materials, and of course - of any size. When choosing, pay attention not only to the appearance, but also to the internal diameter - it should be slightly larger than the diameter of the form in the place where the handle is installed.

Budget station wagons in fishing stores

We will not make ratings of the best universal spinning rods - each sandpiper praises its own swamp. We list the common models that fit the concept of a station wagon and are suitable for working with wobblers, jigs and spinners. All this is the same as Gintai or Jonko, or worse, only branded, so it costs 1.5-3 times more.

Pontoon 21 Gad spinning rods – models Harrier (3500-5500 rubles), Booch (4000 rubles), Delta (2800-4300), Fair (2100-3200);
Maximus Zircon (2000-3200), Work Horse-X (2400-3200);
Flagman BlackFire (2000-3000);
Volzhanka Sprut (3300-4600), Stalker (2500-3500);
Allvega Strike (1700-2500);
Salmo Kraft Jig and Twitch (3500 RUR).

Expensive

Experienced gurus don't need advice - they can give it themselves. At this level, they usually take not a station wagon, but a specialized spinning rod for specific purposes. However, even among the top ones you can choose a universal fishing rod. The following can be considered:

St. Croix Legend Elite LES70MF2 for 25,000 rubles or Avid 2.44, up to 28 or 38 grams (19 thousand);
Talon Delta (18000-20000);
Major Craft Rizer (up to 15000);
Norstream Spiker (about 10,000);
Ayashi Rexzus (8000 RUR)
Maximus Ultimatum (8600).