Short swing on fast rivers

Equipment

To fully install a fly rod, you need correctly selected equipment elements:

• Connector.
• Fishing line.
• Float.
• Sinker.
• Leash.
• Hook.
• Coil.

Connector

The connector is the main element of the equipment. It is used for quickly changing fishing line. The connector is attached to the end of the fishing rod.

There are three types of connectors:

• Store bought. Before purchasing a connector, you should try it on your fishing rod, since they are made to a certain diameter. Afterwards you need to glue it to the tip of the fishing rod.
• Homemade. It is necessary to attach a small carabiner to the end of the rod and tie it with fishing line, after which it is recommended to coat it with a little glue. But such homemade connectors fray the fishing line over time.
• Included with the rod. On good and high-quality fishing rods, the manufacturer independently installs a connector that can withstand good force.

Main line

It must be remembered that fly fishing is catching not very large fish, so a fishing line with a thickness of about 0.2 mm is usually used. It is recommended to use monofilament, as it is more sensitive than braid.

Choosing a float for a fly fishing rod

The choice of float directly depends on the body of water where you will be fishing. If the current speed is low or there is no current at all, then you should take a more sensitive float. If you are fishing on a river with a fast current, then you should take load-lifting spherical floats.

Victoria Leshchenko

I've been working hard in the fishing tackle department for the past six years. I can help you assemble almost any gear.

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The most common option is a teardrop-shaped float with a thin base and a long antenna.

Sinkers, leader and hook

For a fly rod, small sinkers are used, which are distributed throughout the tackle. This allows the bait to sink longer.

You should also ship the leash along its entire length. The correct choice of leash: length from 10 to 25 cm and diameter up to 1 mm.

The hook used is small - No. 3-5 with a long shank.

Coil

Fly rods usually do not use a reel, as it creates some inconvenience when fishing, but sometimes simple reels are still taken with them. They are used to store fishing line when the fishing rod is folded.

Pros and cons of a fly rod

There are several advantages of fishing with blind rigs. The main thing for a novice fisherman is the simplicity of the gear, and therefore the ease of mastering it. Further, we can note the compactness and mobility of the fly rod. Everything you need for fishing will fit in your windbreaker pocket, and its mobility will allow you to actively move around the pond in search of fish. And the ability to select equipment for various fishing conditions, be it a pond, a lake, a small or wide river, or a reservoir, makes this type of fishing also universal. Having made several different equipment in advance, you can assume with a high degree of confidence that one of them will be suitable.

There are also implicit advantages. First of all, these are very small costs for high-quality, catchable tackle.

The disadvantages of fishing with a fly rod include a fixed fishing range, limited by the length of the rod and fishing line of approximately equal length. This means that you should seriously think about what the length of your first fly rod should be. From my own experience I can say that a 5-meter rod is quite enough for hunting crucian carp, roach, and bream in most reservoirs. It makes it easier to learn how to cast and land fish, and such a fishing rod will forgive the mistakes that are inevitable at first.

Another disadvantage of fly fishing is the difficulty in landing large and lively fish, since there is no reserve gear in the form of a reel or a long rubber shock absorber, like on a plug.

Read! Types of floats and their purpose

Lure

You can use any bait for fishing - store-bought or homemade. The prepared complementary food should contain bait that will catch fish. When feeding, you do not need to use too much bait, as the fish will be oversaturated and will bite less actively.

You can add various flavors to complementary foods, which will increase the quantity and quality of bites. The following flavorings can be noted:

• Garlic.
• Anise.
• Hemp.
• Vanilla.
• Honey.
• Dill.

Fishing Features

Preparing gear on a pond begins with laying out the fishing rod, attaching the equipment and measuring the depth. It is convenient to measure the depth by attaching a small pellet weighing 1-2 g to the hook. Most often, the depth is set so that a few centimeters of the leash lie on the bottom. However, when fishing for roach and crucian carp in heavily silted ponds, the hook should be located either near the bottom or a few centimeters above it. During the fishing process, the depth is adjusted depending on the presence of hooks and the quality of bites.

Read! Catching perch with fry

Float fishing almost always begins with feeding the fishing spot. For the starting cast, use three to five balls the size of an orange; when throwing them, you should try to throw them at a distance of 20-30 cm from the float. During the current, the equipment will always tend to the shore, so it is necessary to feed not at the level of the maximum possible casting distance of the fishing rod, but at the line of the tackle’s passage with the current, trying to concentrate the bulk of the food approximately in front of you. From time to time (every 20-30 minutes) throw one or two small balls of bait into the fishing area to maintain the activity of the fish.

Choosing a fishing spot

In summer, fish stay at shallow depths (1-4 m) due to the fact that in hot weather there is more oxygen, food and there are no sudden temperature changes. First you need to find a free area where you can cast your rod. It is also necessary to find a flat bottom, where there is a kind of shelf on which bottom fish wander in search of food. Basically, the first edge begins right behind the aquatic vegetation; bait and bait should be thrown into this place and the cage should be successfully filled.

To accurately determine the location of such a section of the bottom, you should use a depth gauge. It is a brass or lead weight that is attached to a hook. On a fly rod, a lead weight with a ring at the end is often used. The optimal weight of the load is about 15-20 g.

When fishing in an unfamiliar body of water, you need to assemble a fishing rod and attach a depth gauge to the hook. Then walk along the coastal area in search of a suitable place. To do this, you should carefully check the bottom topography and determine the approximate depth. Once the fishing point is found, you can feed the fish and wait for a bite.

Fishing technique and tactics

When fishing with a swoop, it is necessary to keep the line in tension throughout the entire fishing process, that is, the rod is in your hands.

Advantages:

When biting, you can immediately hook. Since the fish is cautious, when it feels resistance, it spits out the bait and does not even get caught with its lip. If you put the rod down and loosen the line, you may not have enough time to hook.

When fishing with a swoop, to increase the likelihood of a bite, play with bait. When the fishing rod is in your hands, fishing becomes a more interesting and productive activity, because you need to lift it, playing along with the bait. When fishing in still water, you need to raise the line a little, then the bait with the hook will rise, and the fish will be interested in it.

Victoria Leshchenko

I've been working hard in the fishing tackle department for the past six years. I can help you assemble almost any gear.

Ask a Question

When fishing with bait, sometimes large fish are interested in fishing, which can break the gear. If there are strong bites, it is recommended to quickly change gear to stronger ones, but if you do not do this, you may miss a large fish or break the gear.

How to catch fish

Catching fish with a fly rod is not easy work. If the fish is large, it must be brought closer to the shore more carefully. It is not recommended to immediately remove the fish from the water; you must first tire it out. The main mistake that leads to breakage of the fishing rod or breakage of the tackle is the powerful lifting of the rod when landing fish. In order to eliminate this, you need to have a landing net with a long handle, this will allow you to not have to put the rod high in order to remove the fish from the water.

Swing cast

To properly cast a fly fishing rod, you must follow the following tactics:

• release the rod a little forward;
• pull him sharply by the shoulder;
• Smoothly cast to the baited area.

Fishing with a fly rod

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A fly rod is a very effective method of fishing on any body of water. It allows you to present the bait to the fish on sensitive equipment accurately and accurately, and the fishing itself is interesting, productive and quite simple. Most often, such conditions occur in reservoirs and lakes, the species composition of fish and fishing in which have much in common.

FLY ROD FISHING IN RESERVOIRS

As with any fishing, one of the main tasks when fishing with a fly rod is choosing a catchable place. The task is simplified if there is preliminary information from the reservoir from fellow fishermen, which, of course, should be treated with a certain degree of criticism, especially if it is received from local fishermen. Usually they fish not in places interesting for fish, but where it is more convenient for them or closer to home. Often this tactic is justified, since the fish are suitable even for an unpromising, but constantly fed place. Of course, the most valuable is your own experience gained through the use of individual fishing techniques and specific bait.

But there are often situations when you have to choose a place on an unfamiliar body of water, then you can only rely on your experience and observation skills. In such cases, it is worth carefully examining the topography of the shore. When hunting for more or less decent specimens, you have to look for deep places. The steeper the slope approaches the water, the greater the depth you can expect near the shore. If the slope is cut by a stream or ravine, it means that in this place there is a discharge of soil into the reservoir; here a bank is formed with two slopes on the sides. Such a place is also interesting because the stream brings out additional food for the fish. Trees on the shore suggest the presence of snags at the bottom, and they always attract fish. In addition, the soil retained by snags forms smooth local shelves, convenient for fishing. However, when measuring the depth, such places should be examined very carefully: an unnoticed snag or branch will deprive you of a large number of hooks. Large reservoirs and lakes are characterized by wide coastal shallows, so you have to look for places near the confluence of rivers or large streams, near hydraulic structures (where fishing is allowed).

Particularly interesting are the dams that separate the reservoir surface from the swampy lowlands. If they are lined with stone, then, in addition to a decent depth, they attract the fish that live here with the zebra mussel shell, especially bream and large roach. And the fish are always interested in places where different soils are combined, which can be either natural or artificially created. Often there is a chance to catch excellent fish even at a shallow depth, about 2 m, of course, if there are thickets of grass or snags in which there is a lot of food, and the saving depth is not far away. Early in the morning and before sunset, most fish come out to such places to feed. At this time, even large bream can be caught from a depth of about 2 m. And fish such as roach and silver bream almost always prefer to stay at a depth of 2-3 m, especially if this is the upper edge of the riverbed.

DEPTH MEASUREMENT

On a flat bottom, a few casts of a medium-sized depth gauge (10-15 g) are enough to find out the depth. A depth gauge is convenient for quickly examining the bottom, for example, when searching for a fishing spot; it can easily determine the presence of algae, snags, and the approximate structure of the bottom (silt or sand). Lately, on stagnant bodies of water, I have been quite accurately determining the depth with a fly rod without a depth gauge. The technology is simple: I move all the sinkers to the leash, and when casting, the float clearly shows whether the sinkers are on the bottom or in the water column.

As a result, I set the depth so that the entire antenna protrudes from the water and the sinker lightly touches the bottom. I mark the depth with a marker on the rod and move the float lower by the length of the leash. In this case, the hook will touch the bottom, which is optimal for catching most fish. When hunting for bream, I only move the float slightly lower so that the main load rises a little in the water column, and the leash with the hook remains at the bottom. After this, I distribute the main weights along the fishing line, bringing the equipment into working condition. I like the method of measuring depth with a movable load because it eliminates the error due to the stretched line that occurs with the traditional method.

When measuring the depth, it is necessary to examine not only the fishing point, but also a short distance around it in order to identify the slope of the bottom and the possibility of hooks. A much more difficult task is measuring the depth on a steep slope of the bottom. Fishing on a very sloping bottom is difficult, and it is better to avoid such places, but if you manage to find a small “shelf” on the slope or even just a more level area, then a large bream may well come out from the depths to bait.

TACKLE

If you don’t set yourself the task of fishing in a specific, well-known place, then you need a pair of rods: one for fishing at close range (up to 5 m), and the other for long distance (7-9 m). A long rod came to my rescue when large fish entered shallow water but did not approach the shore. A short one can save you if there is no bite at a long distance or when large fish are inactive in the middle of the day, but you can successfully fish under the shore. It is never superfluous to feed the reserve point a little closer in anticipation of roach and silver bream. Sometimes, at a distance of a short rod, a large bleak comes out, the size of which in the reservoirs of the middle zone can be impressive: I managed to catch a bleak weighing up to 60 g. Of course, you can get by with just one rod.

The main problem with gear when fishing in still waters is current. Most often this is a wind-driven surface current, but often the entire water column moves at low speed. This usually happens after several days of windy weather, when the water begins to circulate through the reservoir, and even after the wind stops, this phenomenon continues for several days. The best option is when the current is directed against the wind. The traction force on the surface compensates for the movement of the equipment from the float to the sinker, and a certain balance is observed. If the directions of the current and wind coincide, then you have to significantly make the equipment heavier and lower some of the weights to the bottom, which reduces the drift speed. Additionally, submerging the line running from the float to the rod helps. To do this, a micro-pellet (No. 12-13) is attached in the middle of the fishing line section, which, when casting, pierces the surface of the water and sinks the fishing line, preventing it from sailing. Taking into account the fact that the stock for such fishing is at the bottom, there is no need to adjust the load. For fishing in still water, elongated floats are used, with a thin upper body; they perfectly show rising bites, of which there are many when feeding lying on the bottom. The main distribution patterns of weights are shown in the figures.

Casting light equipment even in light winds can be difficult. To do this, it is necessary to give it sufficient momentum, accelerating the rod from behind the back, for which it is pulled back and after a pause sufficient for the equipment to move further away, cast smoothly but energetically. The equipment should stretch out in a line on the surface of the water, which ensures that there are no overlaps when diving.

Casting from the side or from below with a long rod cannot be done, as this leads to tangling of the equipment, and sometimes even to breakage of the rod. It is much easier to cast light tackle with a soft rod and, thanks to good shock absorption, it is easier to land fish than a harder one. Some delay in hooking with a soft rod is more than compensated for by better bites on light tackle.

Rice. 1. Equipment for catching roach and silver bream at shallow depths: 1 - main load; 2 — additional sinker; 3 - sub-lead 0.1-0.2 g: 4 - leash 20-30 cm.

Rice. 2. Equipment for deep 1 depth or for catching bream from the bottom: 1 - olive sinker: 2 - additional sinkers; 3 - additional feeding 0.1-0.2 g. 4 - additional feeding 0.05-0.1 g on a leash of 20-30 cm.

Rice . 3. Bleak equipment for fishing in the water column: 1 - sinkers; 2 - additional grazing 0.05-0.07 g; 3 - leash 10-20 cm.

LURE

The basis of the bait is loose mixtures. Its composition must be selected for a specific body of water and fish. This composition is very different in effectiveness from the crackers and cereals that many fishermen feed. In addition, the fish completely eats this bait and it does not sour at the fishing site. The amount of soil added to the bait depends on the season and water temperature.

In spring and autumn it can be up to 50% of the volume of the mixture. This amount of soil greatly reduces the nutritional value of the bait and does not allow the fish to quickly become saturated.

In summer, when fishing in standing reservoirs, the soil is used mainly as ballast to weigh down the bait balls, and the fish are interested in the active aromatic mixture. But no matter what bait you choose, you definitely need to check its operation: a small ball of bait should disintegrate in the water within 1-10 minutes. Denser balls are only suitable for attaching fish. They can be thrown in the evening so that they take effect at dawn.

I have repeatedly noticed that anglers throw bait directly to the float. This is a very common mistake. Firstly, in flight and for some time in the water, the ball has a horizontal velocity component. Secondly, fishing rarely takes place on a completely flat bottom; most often there is a slope towards the reservoir, and the ball of bait rolls down a little. As a result, he ends up at a completely different point from where the fisherman is fishing. This must be taken into account and adjustments made. Of course, you can check how much the bait balls have moved by trying to fish further away, but such fishing is tedious or requires the use of a longer rod. It is much easier when casting bait 20-50 cm not to throw it to the float. This compensates for the slight approach of the gear during fishing due to wind currents and allows for better control of the gear. Even a weak current slightly carries bait balls and bait particles along the shore; There is no need to make allowances for this, but from time to time it is necessary to try to fish a little further downstream. Often the largest specimens stand on the bait train, this behavior is especially typical for roaches.

CATCHING

Usually, soon after feeding, bites begin. Small fish quickly find bait and actively eat it. To wait for large specimens, additional feeding is necessary. The rate of supplementary feeding has to be determined anew each time. Standard practice when catching large fish is to cast rare, massive, 3-5 large balls of bait. As soon as the first noteworthy specimen is caught, the pace of bait must be changed. Large fish are usually frightened by large balls, so supplementary feeding is done in small portions, throwing balls approximately the size of a table tennis ball. To keep the fish interested, bait is thrown more often, but only if the fish is not scared. If the reaction is negative, throw in two or three lumps of bait, increasing the pause between subsequent portions. When fishing for bream, it often happens that the fish gather at a feeding point and manage to catch several specimens, but suddenly, as if on command, the bite stops. Sometimes this happens after the bream has fallen off the hook. It can be assumed that the fish scared away others nearby. Usually in such a situation the bream is replaced by roach or silver bream, but in this case this does not happen. The fisherman, deciding that the bream has not gone far and the bite will resume, continues to fish. The bream really doesn’t go anywhere, it just rises about 1 m above the bait, thereby preventing small fish from approaching, but it doesn’t bite either. It’s rare that you manage to catch a fish, but almost always it ends with a gathering and subsequent stories from the fisherman that, they say, such a bream bit from the bottom and couldn’t get it off! It is typical that in this case the leash and part of the fishing line above it end up in fish mucus. Athletes also have to face this problem, but a way to solve it has not yet been found. It may be advisable to stop fishing for a while; the fish will calm down and continue to bite, but this is unacceptable in competitions. Athletes usually prefer to try to catch fish with an extremely light falling rig, although this opportunity only arises when fishing with a pole. Sometimes bream simply waits for the feeding period, for example in the morning or evening, preferring not to swim far, but to stay close to the table set by the fisherman. Roach, fortunately, is less picky, and if you managed to collect it, then the most important thing is to maintain the pace of feeding.

It can be more difficult to catch larger specimens. This can often be done by placing a maggot, its pupa or a piece of a worm on the hook. Small fish are reluctant to take these baits, and large fish often get them. Fishing for silver bream is very interesting. In its habits, it occupies an intermediate place between the bream and roach. The silver bream responds well to bait, is much less timid than bream, and when fished it offers decent resistance. Of all the baits, she prefers maggots, colored red. The main problem when fishing for silver bream is very fast bites, during which the float only shudders, so hooking is out of the question. Maximum lightening of the gear can help, since the silver bream is kept close to the shore, within the reach of a 6-7-meter fishing rod, allowing the use of equipment weighing less than 1 g. If you have to use equipment weighing less than 0.5 g, then a simple technique can make casting easier: one knee When landing fish and re-rigging, the rods are folded inward, thereby shortening the rig, and before casting they are pulled out. This technique allows you to react faster to bites, since the length of the fishing line between the rod and the float is reduced. The main line for such fishing should be no thicker than 0.12 mm, otherwise casting is very difficult due to its windage.

Fishing with a fly rod on a reservoir does not present serious difficulties even for a novice fisherman, but it allows you to fully master the gear and count on good catches.

FISHING WITH A FLY ROD IN THE CURRENT

When fishing in the current, certain requirements are imposed on the rod: it must be as light as possible and sufficiently rigid. If everything is clear with the weight (you almost always have to hold the fishing rod in your hands, and every extra gram affects the convenience of fishing), then the rigidity should be within certain limits. In the current it is rarely necessary to use very light rigs, so medium-action rods are optimal, which are good at casting various rigs and are convenient for retrieving and holding. Unlike a soft rod, a stiffer rod behaves better in the wind, allowing you to work more efficiently with gear. But at the same time, if we compare a rod of average construction with a rigid one, the first one is somewhat lighter and obviously has a greater reserve when landing large fish, allowing, thanks to its flexibility, to absorb its jerks.

It is optimal to have a pair of rods, 4-6 and 7-9 m long: short ones are used to fish the coastal part of the river, for example, when fishing for roach, dace or bleak; It is also convenient in strong currents; and long - deep water when fishing for bream or silver bream. Floats for flow require a drop-shaped shape and a long keel - they perfectly resist the pressure of the water flow and are more stable when deployed. The stronger the current, the more the shape of the float should approach spherical. The wide upper part of such a float does not come out of the water, maintaining sufficient sensitivity of the equipment during braking. Such a float does not show bites on the rise, which, by the way, almost never happen in strong currents.

Rice. 1. For weak and medium currents (main option): 1 - main load: 2 - additional load; 3 - sub-lead 0.08-0.15 g: 4 - leash 20-25 cm.

Rice. 2. For a very strong current: 1 - main load: 2 - supplementary weight 0.2-0.5 g. 3 - leash 20-40 cm.

Rice. 3. For wire fishing: 1 - main load; 2 - sub-lead 0.1-0.3 g: 3 - leash 25-40 cm.

The distribution of sinkers on the rig varies depending on the fishing conditions. The load can be from evenly distributed along the entire length of the fishing line to concentrated at one point - in front of the leash. The greater the distance the weight of the load is distributed, the more naturally the rig moves in the water flow and the fewer kinks in the line from the float to the hook, which greatly increases the sensitivity of the rig. But such equipment has a significant drawback - it is prone to frequent tangling, so in practice it makes sense to install sinkers in three to five places. one of them serves as a shepherd.

The weight of the sinkers should increase from bottom to top, starting from the hook. This equipment is universal and has good performance characteristics (Fig. 1).

In some cases, for example, when fishing in a very strong current or with a tight hold, you can concentrate the load in one place, 40-80 cm from the hook, and install a heavy feeder weighing 0.2-0.5 g in front of the leash (Fig. 2 ). It is only important that the length of the leash (20-40 cm) be less than the distance between the underline and the main sinker; this will save you from overlapping the hook and line above the main sinker.

COMPOSITION OF BAIT FOR FISHING IN CURRENTS

In addition to the main basic components of bait, during currents you almost always need ballast - soil, which performs three functions.

Firstly, the weighting of the bait is necessary so that it reaches the bottom faster and does not get carried away by the current.

Secondly, a change in the physical properties of the bait: clay makes the bait heavier and additionally glues it together; loam (ordinary soil) makes it heavier, and depending on the concentration of sand in it, either slightly sticks it together or loosens it.

Fine (3-5 mm) gravel will help to radically make the bait heavier, almost without changing the speed of its erosion. It is not recommended to use clean sand, since when the balls at the bottom are washed out, it remains in place, gradually covering the bait. The bream, of course, is able to dig up a pile of sand to get to the food, but in this case the meaning of the action of the bait is lost, since the fish will quickly eat the offered treat. And for roach, the bait lying on the bottom ceases to exist, since it is primarily interested in particles floating with the flow and marking the feeding path.

Soil is not required when feeding with a mixture of steamed grains of wheat, city, pearl barley, hemp, etc., but such bait is still more typical for fishing with reel gear, and is rarely used in fishing with a fly rod. As for any fishing , it is highly desirable to include at least a small amount of animal components in the bait - bloodworms (small or large), maggots or cut worms. If there are few of them, you can use animal supplements, but only in the supplementary part of the bait.

FEEDING WITH THE CURRENT

There are two main feeding schemes when fishing with a fly rod.

The first option - feeding along the line of the equipment's passage - is more often used on a fairly flat bottom. Balls are thrown like this. so that the main part of the bait is opposite or slightly downstream from the angler; It is from this point that it is possible to control the gear with minimal drift towards the shore. The rest, a smaller part of the bait, is thrown along the line of movement of the equipment, taking into account its braking and displacement towards the shore. In this way, we attract some of the fish to the main bait, and some may be a little further away. This scheme works especially well when fishing for roach, silver bream and chub, which love floating food particles.

Another option is that all the bait is localized at one point. You need to cast it so that the main part falls a little lower downstream, then guiding along this point will be most effective, with a decent distance from the shore. This option is especially good when fishing for bream or crucian carp, when you need to strongly slow down the tackle at the fishing point, provoking a bite. Of course, such a scheme does not cancel free-floating fishing, which is used periodically to check the presence of fish downstream, where biting by roach and silver bream is quite possible.

When casting bait, it is extremely important not to add it slightly. If in still water this is required by the bottom topography, which allows the balls of bait to roll a little (which must be taken into account), then in the current - holding on to the tackle while retrieving it, when it moves to the shore in a certain arc under the influence of a fishing line stretched by the fishing rod. In practice, test runs monitor the degree of approach of the float to the shore, the speed of the current, the required braking force, the presence of hooks, etc. It is along this line, but upstream (taking into account drift), that the feeding point is marked. Usually the degree of lead is 1 -1.5 m to the fishing point. You can, of course, do it simpler: after feeding, look for fish in the fishing place, but in this case there is no guarantee that it will be at a point convenient for fishing. For example, if the main part of the bait lies near a stone, then the equipment will constantly cling to it. The starting part of the bait is about half of the total amount, the rest is required for supplementary feeding.

One of the most important points when fishing is to maintain the fish’s interest in the fishing point by supplementary feeding. With a small amount of food, the fish loses interest and leaves. It can be delayed for a relatively long time without bait only by exceptional bottom topography or the presence of shelter, such as snags. Therefore, constant supplementation is necessary.

The supplementary feeding scheme is close to catching large bottom-dwelling fish in still water: bream, ide or river kras. Additional feeding should be done quite rarely so as not to constantly disturb the fish, but in solid portions - three to five balls of bait the size of an orange. Since the supplementary feeding and starting balls are the same in size, the feeding point is determined simply - by a landmark on the opposite bank. This allows you to clearly control the fishing point at all times.

Constant feeding with small portions of bait (about the size of a table tennis ball) is primarily required for catching roach and silver bream. Lumps are thrown in one or two every 5-10 minutes. Thus, the fish are not disturbed by constant bait, but their interest is maintained as much as possible.

The correct rate of feeding is monitored by the reaction of the fish: if the quantity and quality of bites improve, large fish are caught, which means that the fisherman’s actions are absolutely correct. Of course, the total amount of both bait and supplementary feeding depends on the number of fish in the fishing area. If there is a lot of it, then the risk of overfeeding the fish is minimal, and if it is not enough, it is necessary to reduce the amount of bait, otherwise the bites will become weak and uncertain, and the fish, having had enough, will not be interested in the bait.

Small lumps of bait behave in water a little differently than large starting balls - they are carried away more and washed away faster by the current, and this must be taken into account. In addition, during the fishing process, the bait dries out a little, and it is necessary to either slightly moisten it with a spray bottle, or make allowances for that. that the bait becomes more active and breaks down faster at the bottom. When fishing for roach and silver bream, active bait helps fishing, but for bream it is absolutely necessary to control the degree of moisture in the bait. To ensure that the bait dries out less on a hot day, if possible, place it in the shade and cover it with a damp towel.

Fishing with a fly rod in the current involves floating the gear at one speed or another over the fishing point. The effectiveness of fishing is affected by the speed of the current and its changes, possible changes in water level, distribution of fish along the feeding line, its activity, etc.

Related articles:

Catching perch with light bait. Microjig

Fishing for grass carp

Silver carp fishing

Feeder. Feeder Fishing Basics

What kind of fish can you catch with a fly rod?

Fishing with a fly rod is active fishing, which involves catching fish not in quality, but in quantity. Therefore, the weight of the fish is often between 100 g and 1 kg. Also, if you properly prepare the gear and bait the place, you can catch fish up to 3 kg, but this will be a test for the rod.

You can catch absolutely any fish with a fly rod, it all depends on the location, food and bait. Since fishing takes place in the coastal zone, you can count on the following fish:

• roach, rudd, bleak;
• bream, silver bream;
• carp, carp;
• crucian carp, tench;
• perch, smallmouth, pike perch;
• chub, ide.

Using a properly selected fly rod, you can have a pleasant time fishing. Swoop fishing will not leave anyone indifferent.