How to properly wind fishing line and braid on different types of reels

Types of winding fishing line on a spool

You have probably already become familiar with the main criteria for choosing a spinning rod from the published article on the blog. It will also be useful for you to read the materials of the Siberian spinning fishermen of the Tugun club. As for the types of winding line on a reel, first let me give you a little advice. Correct filling of the reel spool with line also depends on the reel itself and its quality.

By spending on a reel you will save on buying baits

The cost of such a toy averaged 1,600 - 2,000 thousand rubles. Plus, additional money was spent on buying fishing line. Frequent beards catastrophically quickly reduced the winding footage. As a result, in one season it was possible to spend an average of about 5,000 thousand rubles. And over the past 3 years?

I'll be brief. In order not to waste money and spend the saved money on catchy baits, just fork out for a normal reel right away. Don't chase top models

Pay attention to such manufacturers as Ryobi, SPRO, Okuma. Now, with the deplorable rise in prices, the coils have become somewhat more expensive, but still, spending 5-6 thousand once will last you for 5-6 years

This is exactly how long my Ryobi Excia 2000 lasts.

Types of line laying on the reel spool

To avoid further confusion, let's immediately define two terms - laying and winding fishing line.

The lay is the shape the line takes after the spool is completely filled. There are three of them in common use:

straight cone;
reverse cone;
cylinder.

The shape of the laying depends on the shape of the spool and its position on the reel rod. The casting distance depends on the placement, and the winding of the fishing line determines the likelihood of a “beard” forming.

Winding - placing turns of fishing line on the spool.

Recently, many spinning reels, including the above-mentioned companies, have used cross-shaped winding. But on different coils, depending on their design features, the winding pitch (the distance between adjacent turns) can be different, and can also be constant or variable. The larger the winding pitch, the less likely the formation of a “beard”, but also the less line is placed on the spool. Therefore, winding with a large pitch looks loose in appearance.

The most acceptable is cylindrical installation. Problems with beards often do not arise. The bait flies further due to less friction on the sides of the spool.

Adjusting the taper of inertia-free reels

Adjustment of line laying is done by moving the spool along the reel rod. This can be achieved by using special washers. They can be factory-made or self-made. Excellent pucks are made from wobbler boxes.

If we raise the spool, then more turns are wound at the wall and we get a straight cone; we lower it along the rod - at the side, and a reverse cone is formed. It's still a bit of a hassle, but it's necessary. You can verify its effectiveness while fishing.

The straight or cylindrical method is the simplest, since here all winding consists of correctly securing the fishing line on the spool (using one of the above methods) and winding the fishing line evenly along the entire length of the reel. The result should be a cylinder. Due to its simplicity, this type of winding is the most common.

Winding with a bias is as follows:

1. Secure the end of the fishing line with a knot or using a stopper on the reel.

2. Winding begins: with a variable pitch, which decreases towards the spool wall. Thus, it turns out that there will be more fishing line near the wall, which is shaped like a cone.

Braided reel: how to choose and use correctly

Here's a typical story. Provincial fisherman Vasily Pupkin lived a quiet life, fishing for his pleasure with a Crocodile brand spinning rod with a Sun-Vyn brand reel and Chinese monofilament wound on it. But from some point on, he began to develop complexes. “All normal spinners fish with a thread. I, like the last sucker, have a “vein”. It's time to stop this business." Well, Vasily buys a “wicker”. And not just any kind, but “anti-budget”. For we have always been taught that the more expensive a product is, the better it is. And the fact that the price of the cord is even higher than that of the reel does not alarm our fisherman... It all ends in tears. The first fishing trip becomes the last for a brand new line. "Beard" flies after "beard". And a couple of times the cord just breaks somewhere in the middle. Tragedy…

The definition of “consumable” in relation to cords evokes ambivalent feelings. On the one hand, this is not a rod or reel that is bought “for centuries”; the cord is subject to relatively rapid wear. On the other hand, it does not cost junk money, and therefore each of us wants this inevitable wear and tear to go more slowly and, most importantly, there are no unexpected incidents due to which the life of the cord can be reduced significantly. Most of these incidents can be calculated ahead of time. And, accordingly, try to prevent and avoid them. Today we will talk about how to do this.

Principle of price matching

The example we started with is right on this topic. For example, you have a cheap reel, costing about one and a half thousand. So, the “braid” that you intend to wind on it should not cost the same (not to mention even more) money. You should be satisfied with the one that in an average unwinding (this is 135 -150 m) will cost, say, 600 rubles.

Why is that? There are several reasons. First of all, you can expect all sorts of not-so-pleasant surprises from a budget reel, of which, in this context, the most critical is the low quality of cord laying. Which, as you should understand, has every chance of turning into regular shedding of “beards.” To carefully and methodically untangle them half a dozen times during a fishing trip, you need to have the super-poise of a Buddhist monk. What I mean is that in reality the “beards” will have to be trimmed. Agree, it’s better when it comes to a cheap cord rather than an expensive one. It also matters that most inexpensive cords, basic ones within their brand, are medium-hard and can withstand knots and ties relatively painlessly, after untying which they do not lose strength.

The principle of price matching in the more expensive segment is also relevant, although to a lesser extent. Even if we keep in mind reels with a price tag of about 2.5 thousand rubles, then we should pay tribute to the progress of Chinese manufacturers - at this level you can already find many models with very decent performance characteristics. For example, Select or Stinger. But still try to avoid a combination where the “thread” costs the same as the spool.

The principle of correspondence of power

You've probably noticed that reel spools indicate their line capacity. Previously it was basically like this: 0.3/140 (say, mm/M), now you can often see something slightly different: 1.5/200(#/m). In the first case, a monofilament line is meant, in the second - a braided line, which is marked in Japanese “gou units”. But in the context of today’s conversation, we are not interested in the capacity of the spool, but in the power characteristics of the reel indirectly contained in these numbers.

Typically, line capacity is given for three different diameters of monofilament line, and the largest of them is exactly the maximum that the manufacturer recommends for a given reel. If you exceed it, then there is no guarantee that the coil will not soon die from excessive loads. Here you may ask a logical question: much more often the capacity is indicated for “monofilament”, but we fish with “braid”. What should I do? The considerations are as follows. Let the maximum diameter be specified as 0.3 mm. An average monofilament line of this thickness has a breaking strength of approximately 12-14 lb*. If we mean a cord of such a real test, then this is approximately the one that formally passes as “18-20 lb” - here, you know, these are the “rules of the game” in the braided fishing line market. Therefore, we can more or less calmly wind “braid” on our reels with a designated test of 20 lb.

Question: what will happen if we significantly exceed this figure? I’ll tell you frankly, based on my many years of experience, that, most likely, nothing. More precisely, this: if something happened to my reels due to the blatant exceeding of the reasonable strength limit of the “thread,” then this concerned budget models, for which, even if all limits were observed, the lifespan was predicted to be short. It all started with backlashes, which gradually progressed, then the move became heavier. Well, at some point it became impossible to fish with a reel. I can imagine that if I had used less durable cords, these reels would have lasted longer, but not by much.

Read: Advantages and disadvantages of baitcasting reels

I will still give one piece of advice: try to reduce the load on the reel in case of serious hooks. Tearing a thick cord directly means risking “breaking the head” of the coil. Often in such a situation it is recommended to wind the cord around some handy branch - and use it to pull until the bait breaks or is released. But I do it simpler. If the bait is thoroughly stuck and you can’t pull it off (for example, using the “bow method”), you have to “start tearing through.” Here, slowly pulling the cord, you should slightly support the knot with the roller with your index finger - approximately as can be seen in the photo given in the text.

The other extreme is when a thin cord is wound around a powerful power reel. They do this sometimes simply out of ignorance, and when they do it consciously - well, to throw it away. Perhaps nothing bad will happen. But it should be remembered that most powerful reels are designed so that their friction brake does not allow for fine adjustment in the area of light loads. And sometimes in this very area the clutch does not work smoothly, but rather in jerks, which, as you understand, is unlikely to lead to anything good if you use extremely thin cords.

However, there is one useful exception here. If a relatively large and powerful reel is equipped with a match spool, then it is automatically assumed that a thin cord will be wound on it, therefore the friction brake is designed for smooth operation at low loads.

Surprises of different diameters

Let's say you have a reel with a spare spool. On the main one, you wind the cord of the most relevant test for you. If the initial winding is not satisfactory, then adjust it with washers. I won’t describe how this is done once again, because everything can be easily found through any search engine on the Internet. After adjustment, the coil will only make you happy in operation - no problems with loops.

And then you decide to use the reserve spool. Of course, you wind a cord of another dough around it, which differs by two or even three gradations. And on your first fishing trip with this second spool you get several “beards”...

How is this possible? That's how. If we were fishing with a monofilament line, then, having wound, for example, 0.3 mm on one spool, and 0.2 mm on the second, we would fish calmly, alternating them, nothing terrible would happen. Simply because monofilament, thanks to its physical and mechanical properties, when winding, seems to slightly “spread” along the spool, filling its space more evenly than if there were “braid” in its place.

But “braid” of significantly different diameters fits differently on one spool. And in our example, if, for example, a #1.5 cord is wound on the main spool, then the #0.8 cord on the second (exactly the same!) spool will fit differently. This will be noticeable even to the naked eye. For example, on spool 2 there will be a dip in the front, which is not present on spool 1. And, as a result, with spool 2 the reel “loops”. What to do? There are three options to solve the problem.

The first one is the most banal. The principle of “one reel - one spool”. It’s normal when it comes to fishing with lines of significantly different thicknesses, and reels of different classes are required - in size, “power”, etc. Another thing is that such a solution runs into the desire of many of us to have “two in one”, i.e. e. just save...

The second way is a compromise. We “spread” the cords on two spools: smaller – for thickness, larger – for some other properties. Let's say, on the first spool we wind 4-core #1.5 - for fishing among grass or snags, and on the second - 8-core #1.2 - for long-distance casting in open places.

Option three is a little more complicated and, I would say, trickier. We leave one of the bobbins as is, and to the second we glue from below the washer that we removed when adjusting the winding of the first bobbin. We get two spools with different adjustments. I could describe everything in more detail, but I think you will figure out what and how if the question raised is relevant to you.

About the benefits of small spools

Our idea of the ideal reel has changed over time. About 15 years ago, many people (including myself) believed that if the spool included 300 yards (this is one of the American unwinding standards) of running test cord, then it was a very correct reel. The reasoning was quite convincing: one skein of 300 yards lasts, as the cord wears out and is used up, noticeably longer than two skeins of 150 yards. Well, simply because a shorter cord reaches the stage of “no longer enough to cast” much faster.

Read: Daiwa Freams Series Reels

However, later it gradually became clear that a small spool has its own benefits. Not only have we begun to treat “wicker” less reverently than before, having accepted the inevitability of its consumption. It also turned out something less obvious: a small spool gives a more even winding. Which manifests itself in two ways.

Firstly, what happens to the cord wound on a deep spool on serious hooks? Even if initially the quality of installation did not raise any questions, then when the cord tension is close to the limit, it cuts into the lower layers. Or maybe not even cutting in, but pressing in - this word more accurately conveys the essence of what we are talking about now. As a result, an uneven “base” is formed under the working section of the cord - and, as a result, this working section itself lies less smoothly than it did at the beginning. In theory, after each such episode, you should unwind the cord to its entire length, at which the indentation is noticeable, and wind it back, passing it through your fingers. But who will do this?! After all, we can talk about rewinding two hundred meters of cord back and forth each time. Therefore, you have to put up with the fact that the winding that was ideal at the beginning of fishing becomes imperfect during its course. But this, as you might guess, entails a greater risk of shedding the “beard” and, accordingly, losing part of the cord. Savings due to greater unwinding come at a cost...

Secondly, on a shallow spool the cord generally lies more evenly - you may have noticed this yourself. If you haven’t noticed, then conduct a simple experiment. Take a reel with a deep spool that has problems with winding quality. And start filling the spool from scratch, paying attention to the moment at which these very “problems” become visually noticeable. For most of these reels, this happens after the spool is 40-50% full. That is, there would be no question of problematic installation if the spool were low-capacity.

In this regard, I remember one of my reels from 10-12 years ago. It was a very budget product, marketed under the Tom Lakefield brand. What was remarkable about the reel was that it was equipped with as many as three spools, including a small one. It was with this spool that I fished with the reel for a season and a half. I caught it for my own pleasure. But the two deep ones were not useful. They "bearded in black." Apparently, they were intended for monofilament fishing line, and I did not have sufficient grounds to make any claims.

This insidious “chord twist”

I'll start with a specific example. About five years ago, on one of the forums, there was a discussion about such a not particularly important, at first glance, issue as getting the cord on the front part of the spool when starting to wind. Even then I noticed that I had a Daiwa Steez reel, and with it something like this had never happened before in a hundred fishing trips. He said it and “jinxed it”: a day later Steez laid his first “chord turn”...

This question itself may seem to some not worth a damn. If you think so, then you are just lucky. In fact, the problem is serious, threatening trouble. Therefore, let's look at it in detail.

How does this happen? You are casting. You start rewinding as usual, without looking at the reel, but due to some slack in the cord and, possibly, the rear initial position of the spool, the cord on the first turn does not lie where it should have gone, but somehow along a chord across the side...

Everything would be fine, but this is what happens next. Firstly, during subsequent casts, the line running off the reel strongly rubs itself at the two points where the chordal turn intersects the edge of the spool. Secondly, if on one of the subsequent longer casts the chord turn simply leaves the reel “in order” along with all the line involved in the cast, this is luck. Worse is the scenario in which the cord running from the spool pulls the chord turn earlier than it should. I will not describe in detail the options for what could happen. Let me just say that there may be two worst ones. This is either a “beard” (note, fifty meters from the end of the cord!), or even a break in the “braid” in this place. Both of these, one might say, are a death sentence for the cord, and often an expensive one. Well, because anti-budget 8-cores are more prone to getting tangled and torn in such a situation. N And this is just a “harmless” chordal turn.

Now in more detail - why this happens and how to deal with it. First, let's note that the problem is more typical for inexpensive reels. The top ones have something built into their design that makes the chord turn the exception rather than the rule. But most of us fish with budget reels, so we have to take it into account. It is important that even among cheap reels there is a “stratification” on this issue. For some, the chordal turn happens rarely, for others it happens often, up to a dozen times per fishing trip. If you notice such a bad habit on your reel, then, even if it sounds trivial, make it a rule after each cast to check how the first turn is laid - and if anything, simply correct it with your finger. It may seem tedious and dreary, but I’ll tell you for myself, you get used to it. I had such coils.

Read: Important fishing line parameters: material, breaking load, diameter, calibration

Often a chordal turn is caused by a technical error in casting - when we send the bait along an unreasonably high trajectory. This is even more fraught when casting against the wind. Then a large slack is formed, and in the first few turns the cord lies on the spool anyhow, including across the side. Therefore, try to throw more flatly. Especially with a headwind or headwind.

Another factor that provokes a chord turn is an excessively pronounced reverse cone of the cord laying profile on the spool. We usually get it by adjusting the winding in order to prevent the loops from being thrown off when fishing with the jerk method. But here you can overdo it - the cord will strongly “prop up” the edge of the spool, and sometimes even “step over” it, which can lead to a chordal turn. If so, then you should place a thin washer under the spool. The reverse taper will remain, but will be less sharp.

"Architectural excesses"

There are a couple of elements on spinning reels that seem to provide useful functionality, but sometimes create problems.

The first of these is the friction brake adjuster, i.e. a nut with a grip. This very grip is sometimes designed purely geometrically in such a way that the cord tends to wrap around it with several turns. What happens next, if it does happen, usually causes a stream of swear words from the angler: the same troubles as with a chord turn, only in even more radical terms.

The second trouble associated with the clutch regulator is the cord getting under it. You just suddenly feel that “something has gone wrong”, look at the reel and see that the “braid” has somehow gotten under the nut - and has already managed to wrap itself around the axle with a dozen turns. This may not be as critical as winding it around the regulator itself - well, already because it is not fraught with the formation of a “beard”, but still not very pleasant.

What to do? More than once I had the desire to take a file and smooth out the sharp corners of the trapezoidal clutch grip, characteristic, for example, of Shimano reels of previous generations. But, of course, this path should hardly be approved. The better option is to select a regulator from an old reel that is suitable for threads and other mechanics. I have about a dozen of these “meat grinders” that I use as spare parts donors. For example, what you see in the photo is a Cormoran brand reel, which in its original form did not have a string, and even got under the nut. I found a replacement, everything returned to normal.

Finally, another “sometimes extra” part of the reel is the clip, the line clamp. It may contain two “surprises”. The first is to damage the cord with sharp metal edges hidden under the plastic cover. It is useful to look at this place on the cord - are there any torn fibers visible on it? If you notice, just stop using the clip. Not a big loss. About four of these coils passed through my hands.

The second problem also does not appear often, but is fraught with the shooting of the bait. It’s just that on the next cast your jig or favorite wobbler treacherously flies away into nowhere. And all because the cord on the previous cast somehow managed to get under the clip, which then caused an abrupt stop and breakage.

How does this happen? Due to the same thing that, as we noted above, causes a chordal turn - due to the beginning of winding with slack. Only in this case does the cord get in front of the spool, and in this case – on its “skirt”, where it “finds” the clip.

But here's the moment. This (the cord getting caught in the “skirt”) happens with different reels, but getting caught under the clip happens only with some of them. It's difficult to cure. Therefore, if suddenly you are unlucky with a reel and you come across exactly the same one, then the surest thing is to simply remove the clip. Again, no big loss. And you will get rid of unnecessary headaches.

Reel models and line winding options

The wide variety of types and models of gear made it necessary to study the question not only of how to wind a fishing line on an inertial reel, but also how to wind a cord on a spinning or multiplier reel. In addition, proper winding of the fishing line on the spool allows you to bring the casting distance as close as possible to the value declared by the manufacturer of the product. Another important point is that the fisherman must know how many meters of fishing line to wind on the spinning reel. Failure to comply with this parameter will lead to the fact that the braid, fishing line, and cord will wear out very quickly.

Multiplier

Since winding fishing line on a multiplier reel will work well, provided that it is of the thickness recommended by the manufacturer, be sure to pay attention to this indicator. Before winding the line onto the spool, make sure that it is neither thinner nor thicker than the specified values.

Winding fishing line onto a multiplier reel begins with fixing it on the spool. Pass the cord or line through the hole in the line guide and tie it to the spool axle.

Expert opinion Nikolay Mikhailovich Knipovich Zoologist, hydrobiologist

I am interested in fishing at a professional level.

Important! Before winding the line onto the spinning reel, make sure that the knot and the hole of the line guide are located exactly opposite! If you need to adjust the position, do it with the clutch loose, and then tighten it! If the spool is perforated, then before winding the fishing line on the spinning rod, thread it through the hole and tie it with a regular knot

If there are no holes, then use one of two types of knots to secure them:

If the spool is perforated, then before winding the fishing line on the spinning rod, thread it through the hole and tie it with a regular knot. If there are no holes, then use one of two types of knots to secure them:

special unit;
self-tightening knot.

Read Techniques for catching perch with spinners and choosing a location

Inertialess

Just as in the case of the “mult,” the cord is wound onto a spinning reel if its diameter corresponds to that declared by the manufacturer. If the diameter is smaller than required, then it will not be possible to wind the braid onto the spool efficiently. The result will be frequent occurrence of “beards”. In addition, the correct winding of fishing line on a spinning reel implies that the tackle will accommodate a certain footage of it - no more and no less. If the diameter does not match, a deviation from the parameters will occur.

Expert opinion Nikolay Mikhailovich Knipovich Zoologist, hydrobiologist

I am interested in fishing at a professional level.

Attention! Winding braid onto a spinning reel, as well as winding a cord onto a multiplier reel, must be carried out under the tension of the fishing line. This ensures tight installation and minimizes the chance of the scaffold falling off!

Correct winding of the fishing line onto the spool is carried out according to the “cross” or “turn to turn” pattern. Then the scaffolding is laid very high quality. If the braid is wound onto the reel correctly, then there should be 1-1.5 mm of free space left from the edge of the spool. Now that you know how to properly wind the fishing line on a spinning reel, let's talk about inertial gear.

Inertial

If you know how to correctly wind braid onto an inertia-free or multiplier reel, then you already have an idea of how to wind braid onto an inertial reel. The process is absolutely identical. Attach the cord to the spool and start winding

Since it is necessary to correctly wind the fishing line onto the reel while maintaining tension, be sure to pay attention to this. Another point worthy of attention is that the correct winding of the braid onto the spool is carried out slowly, with smooth and uniform turns of the handle

Often, a fisherman is interested not only in how to properly wind the line on a reel, but also in the question of how to do it more conveniently. Usually someone is called in to help hold the reel while the line is wound onto the reel. But what to do if there is no one nearby who could help? How to wind fishing line correctly on a spinning reel in this case? Now we will tell you a simple way to correctly wind braid onto a spool yourself.

You will need three books. Place two books in front of you parallel to each other so that there is a distance between them equal to the width of the book. Since you need to correctly wind the braid onto a reel with light tension, the third book will help us with this. Place the third book in front of the other two, and run a cord between the pages. Its edge of the line should come out of the book onto the tackle. Now you know how to wind the cord on a bobbin at home yourself.

Selection of reel and line

The first task of the fisherman is to purchase high-quality fishing line. Modern spinning and feeder players rarely use traditional monofilament due to its elongation in water, which is especially noticeable at long distances. They prefer braided cords , which are less susceptible to deformation and exhibit similar strength with half the diameter. The exception is the use of monofilament in tandem with a rotating spoon, but for jigging braid is definitely preferable.

Monofilament in combination with classic inertial and inertialess reels is used primarily for float and nod fishing rods, bottom tackle and girders. In this case, a different winding principle is used.

Determining line length and backing

Reels produced by reputable manufacturers indicate their capacity, that is, how many meters of thread of a certain thickness they can hold. The classification from Shimano is considered generally accepted at the moment. The lightest and lowest-capacity model is the one marked “1000” (this figure comes from the product of the line diameter and its length in millimeters), used for ultralight spinning rods.

In order to save money (which, by the way, is completely justified), many fishermen wind only as much fishing line onto the reel as is needed to achieve the maximum casting distance. However, for effective and comfortable fishing, it is necessary that the reel be filled almost completely. A distance of a couple of millimeters from the edge of the spool is still acceptable, but beyond that the problems begin.

How to determine the required amount of backing and fishing line? Don't measure them with a ruler, after all! Ideally, it is better to use a special line counter, mechanical or electronic - these devices are usually inexpensive and make the fisherman’s life much easier. Advanced models are attached directly to the rod and help improve casting accuracy, which is especially important when feeder fishing. So you definitely won’t have to regret the money spent on purchasing this convenient “gadget”.

The second option for winding fishing line is more cumbersome. You will need two spool spools of the same capacity. We first wind the working cord on one of them (there is always much less of it), then the backing, until the spool is filled. Then we rewind to the second spool, and the backing ends up in the place intended for it - below, under the main cord.

Winding profile

When wound correctly, the cord lies in accordance with the spool profile. The following types of profiles are distinguished:

Most spinning and feeder players practice winding the fishing line in the shape of a cylinder or reverse cone. Adjustment is carried out by installing washers of a certain diameter in the desired order. In a word, don’t be lazy to read the instructions and work with your hands. However, these nuances are secondary, for those who like an individual approach: branded reels are sold with washers already installed and perfectly adjusted.

Securing the line to the spool

It is reasonable to perform one more manipulation with the fishing line: you can secure it to the spool using electrical tape or adhesive tape in the direction of the cord travel - no matter how strong the knot is, without additional fixation it will still slide. Just try to avoid sudden changes that could negatively affect the quality of the winding.

Winding fishing line onto a spinning reel

Let's get straight to the process. If you want to make it as comfortable as possible and technically flawless, you can purchase a special device that allows you to control both the direction of laying the fishing line and its tension. But you can get by with improvised means:

The fishing line must be wound evenly, with a certain controlled tension, in order to avoid “beards” and unwanted bumps. After completing the process, you should secure the fishing line with a special clip on the reel - this will protect it from weakening and falling off the spool.

Features of inertial coils

Inertial reels are a classic of the fishing genre, used primarily in traditional bottom (not feeder) or fly fishing, or in tandem with float equipment. However, some spinning and feeder anglers still prefer this old-school accessory. This is a matter of taste, although objectively the inertia-free spinning rod and feeder are much more convenient at all stages, from casting to retrieving fish.

The design of inertial reels does not include a line layer, so the fisherman’s primary task is to control the tension and direction of line laying. The basic approach to winding remains the same as in the previous case: from the factory bobbin on a pencil through a ring to a reel. However, in this case, the angler squeezes the line between his fingers and guides it to distribute it evenly on the spool. Both cruciform and simpler spiral laying are acceptable.

In this case, it is absolutely not worth winding the fishing line until the reel is completely filled (not to be confused with inertia-free models!). In principle, an almost half-empty spool is acceptable - this has little effect on the comfort of fishing. But filling the reel up to the sides risks the line falling off and getting tangled at the most crucial moments.

Animator equipment

Multiplier reels represent a natural evolution of the good old inertia reels. In essence, these are winches characterized by increased strength and load-carrying capacity with an expectedly large mass and an equally impressive price. It is used primarily in sea fishing, but sometimes it is also used in fresh water fishing, usually in tandem with a reinforced casting or trolling blank. The multiplier is purposefully designed for the extraction of trophy specimens.

Winding fishing line on a multiplier has a number of features. Firstly, the spool has perforations. Its original purpose is to make the structure lighter, but the existing holes are also good for attaching fishing line: it can simply be tied with a regular knot. There is no need to use backing: it is not necessary to fill the spool to the brim. The multiplier is already heavy, and incomplete winding will not affect its performance in any way.

The remaining principles can be borrowed from inertia-free winding, but you need to take into account that in this case it is better to control the tension of the cord. This can be done with fingers protected by a glove or a piece of cloth, or you can use a cork cut in half for this purpose (a fishing line is passed through the cut).

Reels of this type do not have a clip for fixing the cord, so in the end it is better to wrap it around the foot of the attachment to the rod.

Practical advice from experienced fishermen

Following a good tradition, at the end of the article, experienced fishermen give you practical advice:

We hope our practical tips will help improve the comfort of your fishing, increase your catches and make reasonable savings when purchasing equipment!

We attach the purchased, new fishing line to some kind of rod. Fortunately, there is always a hole in the reel with store-bought fishing line for these purposes. You can use a regular stationery pencil as a rod.
We assemble the rod and pass the fishing line through the spinning rings. We tie the free end to the bobbin with a loop.
We install it on the reel and begin to slowly rotate the handle, winding the braid.

To avoid these problems with winding braid onto a reel, you need to follow certain rules. An experienced spinning player has several secrets that make it easy for them to do this.

Let's look at this process step by step. There are three main, main steps.

We attach the purchased, new fishing line to some kind of rod. Fortunately, there is always a hole in the reel with store-bought fishing line for these purposes. You can use a regular stationery pencil as a rod.
We assemble the rod and pass the fishing line through the spinning rings. We tie the free end to the bobbin with a loop.
We install it on the reel and begin to slowly rotate the handle, winding the braid.

And now about the nuances. How to do all of the above correctly and without problems. There are several secrets here. I hasten to share.

The second secret. Soft winding. Another problem is the even winding of the cord turns, so that there are no distortions and “humps”. How to achieve this? To prevent distortions and twisting of the braid during winding, you need to loosen the clutch of the spinning reel so that it is triggered at the slightest resistance. Then the loops will lie on the bobbin evenly and without twisting.

Evenly laid turns, one to one, will avoid loops when the braid comes off the reel spool.

The third secret. When attaching the fishing line, if it is backing or the main cord, when its length is sufficient without backing to the “bare” spool, the attachment point must be secured with a thin piece of cloth adhesive plaster. Otherwise, during fishing under load, for example, while fishing for large fish, the entire braid will rotate, which is very bad.

If everything is done exactly in the sequence that we talked about. Follow the three steps in winding braid and use little secrets, the process itself will not take much time. Half an hour maximum. And the cord will lie flat and without distortions. This will guarantee comfortable fishing, and not torment with gear. This happens in 99% of cases when the line is wound incorrectly on the spinning reel.

All you need is:

Adjusting the winding profile (taper)

Each reel model has its own winding profile. There are:

cylindrical profile (photo 1);
reverse cone, where the profile of the wound line expands towards the front side of the spool (photo 2);
straight cone, when the profile of the wound fishing line tapers towards the front edge (side) of the spool (photo 3);
chaotic profile inherent in cheap Chinese coils.

Spinning anglers use a cylindrical or light reverse cone. The winding geometry is adjusted using adjusting washers.

The adjusting washers for reels with a front friction brake are located on the axis on which the spool is mounted, above the ratchet sprocket. The reel kit usually comes with 2 to 6 washers of varying thickness. As the thickness of the washers increases, the winding profile changes towards a straight cone, and when the thickness of the washers decreases - towards a reverse cone. If the package does not contain shims, it means they are already installed on the axle. This point must be taken into account.

To remove (install) washers you must:

Unscrew the spool by rotating the clutch counterclockwise.
Remove the spool from the reel axis (rod).
Remove (install) the required number of washers. There were cases when it was necessary to remove even the sprocket to achieve optimal winding geometry.

The adjusting washers for reels with a rear friction brake are usually located in the spool itself. The principle of adjusting the line winding profile is exactly the opposite of reels with a front friction brake. Increasing the thickness of the washers leads to a reverse cone, decreasing - to a straight cone.

To remove (install) washers you must:

Remove the bobbin.
Unscrew the special nut on the front of the spool.
Remove the shim retainer.
Remove (install) the required number of washers.

Difficulties arise when winding braided cord. If you do not provide for its rigid fixation, then it can scroll. To do this, you need a rubber gasket on the spool shaft. A part of the fingertip is also suitable for this.

To choose a reel, you need to know what they are:

Inertialess. Great for a beginner, can be with closed or open spool;
Inertial, leader and multipliers are designed for experienced fishermen;

Three types of winding:

Cone-shaped ascending. With such winding, the outermost line of the scaffolding will be inclined along the axis of rotation. And the outer part will have a larger diameter than the inner one;
Cone-shaped descending. The winding is cone-shaped, but the inner part will have a slightly larger radius than the outer one;
Cylindrical. The extreme line of the thread is parallel to the axis of rotation of the spool.

Inertia coil

All inertial type coils are distinguished by the fact that winding on it is not difficult. It will be attached to the rod drum with a double loop or line knot. Then you need to wind the required length, creating a slight tension, and while winding, carefully ensure that the thread is wound smoothly, without creating turns.

The easiest way to create a little tension is to use any book and thread the thread through the pages.

Spinning reel

The line layer is responsible for reeling. It looks like a plastic or metal loop with a rubber roller, during which it rotates in a circular motion.

After the first revolution, the line layer begins to lay the line upward, and after the second revolution, the thread continues to move in the opposite direction. As a result, the winding looks like a cross.

Multiplier reel

Can be used with any fishing rod. When winding to the edges, there should be a space of 2-3 mm. In multipliers it is impossible to use backing; you need to accurately calculate the length of the thread for winding so that at the wrong moment there is not enough of it.

You need to thread one of the ends of the fishing line through the line guide and, after making a few turns, tie it with a loop to the spool. Next, pass the cord through the fixed brake and begin winding the spool, creating tension.

How to properly wind fishing line onto a fishing reel

Before winding the fishing line onto the reel, it is important to decide what type of winding is needed. The casting distance and the probability of dropping loops (“beards”) depend on this.

Read Fishing for crucian carp using float tackle and choosing bait and bait

There are three installation options in total:

Reverse cone: this method is considered the most popular among fishermen, because the likelihood of dropping loops is minimized, but the casting range suffers. This effect is ensured by the fact that the winding pitch gradually decreases from the center to the sides of the spool.
With a simple cone: this method of winding is the opposite of the previous one. That is, the tackle can be cast far enough, but you will have to handle the fishing rod extremely carefully to prevent the appearance of a “beard”. In this case, the winding pitch gradually increases from the top edge of the bobbin to its base.
Cylindrical: in purchased spools, the line is wound in exactly this way, that is, directly, with an equal pitch in the upper part of the spool and its base. This winding method successfully combines optimal casting distance and reducing the risk of loops dropping.

Figure 1. Winding methods: 1 - reverse cone, 2 - simple cone, 3 - cylindrical
When winding fishing line onto a spool, you need to take into account a few more important points. First, the coil must be properly filled. Neither half-winding nor “slide” winding should be allowed. In the first case, the cord will not come off the reel well and the casting distance will decrease, and in the second there will be a high risk of loops dropping (Figure 1).

Secondly, it is necessary to correctly determine the winding density. You should not wind the line too tightly on the spool, because this will make it difficult for the line to come off when casting.

Selecting line and reel

The choice of suitable gear also plays an equally important role. Traditional monofilament is rarely used now, because it stretches greatly in the water and it is inconvenient to fish from long distances.

The only option when it is worth using monofilament is in combination with a rotating spoon.

Modern spinning rods and feeders are in most cases equipped with spinning reels with a line guide. But, regardless of the type of fishing rod, high-quality fishing line and spool significantly facilitate the winding process

How to wind fishing line or cord onto a reel

So, we have chosen one of the types of laying, configured the spool as needed, and now all that remains is to wind it correctly. And before we get down to business, I would like to note some fundamentally important points: the winding should be tight, without sagging, bumps and depressions. Otherwise, the “beard” cannot be avoided, and with it, as you know, fishing turns from relaxation into torture. And if the wicker is also expensive, then it’s no time for jokes.

Backing. What is it and what is it for?

It's time to say a few words about backing. For a longer cast, it is necessary that the cord be wound almost under the very edge of the spool. It is enough to leave a distance of 1 - 1.5 mm so that there are no discharges. As a winding, they usually use old braid or fishing line similar in diameter to the main one. If you don't have them, you can buy them in the cheapest price range. In the end, you can't fish on backing, so quality plays the most important role here.

They also say that they use electrical tape. However, I am skeptical about this alternative for one simple reason: I have seen what happens to such materials in the heat. But sewing thread, on the contrary, is a very interesting option and is recognized among many fishermen. Well, let's finally get to the point?

So, let's go in order. What we need to wind the cord onto a reel:

The reel itself and the main braid or line; Spare spool (there is one); Volume “War and Peace” (no matter which one); Backing (winding: sewing thread, fishing line, cord); A comrade or a basin, but a comrade is still better; Patience.

If all of the above is available, then you can proceed.

However, first of all, I would like to pay attention to the following point - how to tie the fishing line to the reel. It just so happens that without this fastening nothing good will definitely come of it.

In expensive reels, some manufacturers have a special recess on the working surface of the spool, where you can easily hook the cord and continue winding. But this is the exception rather than the rule, because most models do not have this option, so you will have to tie it the old fashioned way. Yes, so that the braid does not slip, but holds relatively tightly. Perhaps this is the only requirement for the node.

Look at the photo, there is a diagram here. Everything should be clear, and most importantly, reliable. I prefer the top knot, it just so happens.

Let's assume that we have tied the main line to the spool. Next, we take out “War and Peace” (or any other thick book), open it somewhere in the middle and put fishing line between the pages. We safely close the reading and move on to the next stage. By the way, the book is needed so that the fishing line or cord is wound under uniform tension. You can also press the whip against the rod with your finger, just be sure to wet the cloth so as not to damage the skin.

If you have a friend next to you, you can ask him to hold the reel, exactly opposite the reel, in the same plane as the direction of the fishing line (mirror it). This way we can avoid excessive curling, which can later turn into a “beard”. The cord will simply twist to a critical value and a fiasco will inevitably happen, a matter of time.

But if there is no friend, some kind of container, basin or deep cup will do. Just put the bobbin there and it will not jump out, preventing you from doing normal winding. It’s not as convenient, of course, as with the help of a friend, but you can manage!

So, now everything is ready to begin the actual winding. The line (or lash) is under tension, the reel is also fixed, we begin to twist the reel. As soon as the main line runs out, you need to tie the backing to it and reel it in until there is 1 - 2 mm left to the edge of the spool. If everything turns out smoothly and you are satisfied with the type of installation, we rewind the result back to the spare spool. However, it is advisable to hide all the knots at the very edges so that they do not protrude anywhere, I mean the connection of the backing with the main winding. After all, we do it “to the finish”.

If there is no spare spool, you will have to tinker longer. And the principle itself changes a little. We also tie the main fishing line or cord to the spool, wind it to the end (until it runs out), and finish off the remaining capacity of the reel with backing. Next, we wind the backing separately onto one reel, fishing line or cord onto another. And only after this we re-attach the winding to the spool, and carefully tie the main line to it. Using this scheme, we will accurately determine the required amount of backing the first time and our winding will be to the very edge of the spool.

Read Fishing for white fish

How to properly wind braided fishing line onto a spinning reel.

It would seem that there is nothing complicated here: attach the reel to the butt of the spinning rod or feeder, tie the braid to the spool with a “noose” knot, throw the reel into a bucket of water and reel in, but that’s not the case.

Let's start with the fact that braided fishing line is not “monofilament” and there is no need to throw it into a bucket of water when winding it, because the thread tends to absorb moisture. And if you also wind the cord, relying only on the resistance of the water, then at the very first cast the loop may be reset, which is not always possible to untangle. Impregnated brand cords are less likely to get wet, but it's still better to have someone hold the spool on a pencil than to use a bucket of water.

It is very important that the winding density is good. A wet cord, at least slightly, still expands, and when it dries on the spool, the winding density decreases, so even if you had to resort to water during winding, you must wind the braid with force, which is achieved by pressing the cord against the blank. The index finger of the hand that holds the blank is wrapped with electrical tape and when winding occurs, this finger slightly presses the braided line against the blank, while the whole hand holds the butt about thirty centimeters from the reel. The pressure of the fence is adjusted so that the reel handle rotates evenly, but with some effort.

In addition, this device, which is sold in fishing stores, can help you wind the cord tightly around the reel spool.

It may look different, although the essence is the same: the reel with the cord is attached to the shaft and is slightly pressed with clamps to create a force with which the cord will be wound as expected, without any slack, evenly, turn to turn.

By and large, this entire structure can easily be replaced by an assistant wearing gloves and a pencil, who can hold the reel on the pencil, slowing it down a little when winding it with the phalanges of his thumbs. So, let everyone decide for themselves whether it is advisable to buy a special design, and we will return to other important points.

Backing (Backing, backing)

The correctness of winding the cord, and indeed the monofilament line, does not end only with the density of its placement on the spool. Another important detail is the winding height. This parameter very seriously affects the casting distance of baits, so you should not neglect it. The fishing line (cord) should be wound in such a way that there is only a couple of millimeters left to the top edge of the spool

and it is not always possible to achieve this without backing.

What is backing?

This is the name given to the backing for the braided cord, which fills the volume between the spool and the cord so that the winding ends at the height the spinner needs from the edge of the side.

The easiest way to “raise” the cord is to wind electrical tape onto the spool, but this method has significant disadvantages:

1. How to calculate the amount of backing so that there are two millimeters left to the side?

2. Some argue that in hot weather the adhesive of the electrical tape flows and damages the lower turns of the cord.

It’s hard to say how real the problems with glue are, but I don’t want to experiment, especially since the first drawback is enough to give up this method. Although there are stubborn fishermen who are not too lazy to rewind the line from spool to spool several times (and in the absence of a second spool, back to the reel) in order to achieve the desired winding height. That is: the spinning angler wound up the electrical tape, then wound the cord, looked... “more is needed”! I rolled up the fence, wound up the electrical tape again, etc.

How to wind fishing line on an inertial spinning reel?

The fishing line is correctly wound on the inertial reel of the spinning rod.
If you bought a spinning rod, but do not yet know how to use it, you need to look at the instructions that came with it and check it. According to the class offered for sale, the inertial reel must be suitable for the given fishing rod, as well as for its cord. The inertial reel is interesting because it does not directly participate in throwing the spinning rod into the water. How to wind fishing line on an inertial spinning reel?

The fishing line in a spinning rod is tied to the drum at one end, and to the cord at the other. This is a feature of winding fishing line on this type of reel.

Backing consists of synthetic fibers that are laid on a spool of 10 to 100 meters. Due to this device, the diameter of the drum increases. Thanks to this, the turns of the cord will be positioned correctly, closer to the side of the spool.

There are only two correct ways to wind:

When the line is positioned against the rotation of the inertial reel.
When it is located along the rotation arrow.

If you place the line in rotation, you may end up with a “beard”. In this case, it will be difficult to withstand the process of fishing in this case. The fishing line will constantly get tangled.

Placing the fishing line opposite the movement of the reel is the surest way, since in this case, the reel drum will rotate correctly and there will be no “beard”. That is, if you wind the line clockwise, the reel can drop the line, if counterclockwise, it will spin correctly. In other words, the line wire in a spinning rod with an inertial reel should be wound along the rod - it’s simple.

Becking

Most often, when winding the fishing line, a large distance remains to the edge of the spool side, so backing (winding under the main fishing line) is needed in order to completely fill the reel spool. It is made from thicker fishing line or nylon cord.

Some people use regular electrical tape, but in hot weather it has a negative property - the adhesive layer begins to seep through the coils and blinds the fishing line. After the dive cord was damaged, I abandoned this method.

Backing is calculated experimentally - we wound the main line on an additional spool, tied a nylon thread and wound it almost to the edge. Next, remove the spool, install the main one and wind everything in the reverse order. So we will have the winding from below, and the main line will lie under the side of the spool.

We reel in

To do everything correctly, you must first fix the fishing line on the spinning reel; just thread it into the spool, as described above. You can attach it to this part of the tackle in various ways, directing the knot in any direction, it all depends on the preferences of each individual fisherman. Beginners sometimes rewind everything several times due to an error at this stage, but even for a braided line a regular “noose” will do. We put this knot on the spool, after which you can start putting on the reel, as long as there is enough space on the reel. This stage is called breaking - the moment when you begin to wind the tackle onto the reel and many beginners do not calculate the amount of fishing line.

Because of this, large voids remain near one of the edges, which they try to correct by uneven winding and begin tying electrical tape to distribute the equipment. However, in the heat, the polymer base may simply melt, which will completely destroy all your hopes for a successful catch. You can replace incorrect electrical tape with regular fishing clips or with the help of small knots on the rig itself, which will limit its movement in the reel, which, in turn, minimizes slipping. In this matter, you should be patient, because even an experienced fisherman says the following: “Sometimes I put the line on new reels 2-3 times until it seems to me that I have done it perfectly...”.

Next, you should begin winding the already tensioned fishing line onto the spool, while maintaining tension.

If you don’t want unnecessary troubles when trying to charge a new braided cable, then stick to the following principles:

First, secure the reel to the rod, and when tying a knot for the fishing line, check the strength of the fixation. After all, some people first tie knots, reel in the tackle, and only then attach all the equipment together to the rod, which is a gross mistake. When we pull braid without a rod, it can develop beards and tangles, and also become coiled during subsequent casts.
To make winding easy and convenient, you will need a partner. Otherwise, you are unlikely to be able to apply the required tension, and no matter how you stretch the tackle in this case, you will not be able to avoid dismounts. Therefore, having your friend hold the reel and you hold the fishing rod is best suited for this situation.
When all the gear is installed, make sure once again that you were able to lay the line evenly on the reel, and the distance from both edges to the filled part should not exceed a couple of millimeters.

The biggest mistakes beginners can make is when we “thread” the fishing line to the spool and subsequently tie a knot. Therefore, thread it several times and experiment not only with the noose, but also with other variations of fastening, this will allow you to find the most convenient one for you personally.