Which casting network has the best radius? Casting networks: American or Spanish? Thread or fishing line? Technique for casting a casting net with a ring

Yes... it’s not easy to find a more exciting tackle. As soon as you take it in your hands, you immediately imagine wild nature..., crocodiles...! And everything depends only on you, only you and... the fish. Beauty…!

And fish should be treated with special respect - it is far from stupider than a chicken. Can you imagine this - you take a nonsense and chase like a fool across a field after a flock of chickens, geese, etc. Catch up??? That’s how fish are - they see everything, hear everything, and they’ll be even quicker.

But if you hide, for example, around the corner, pour food on the chickens, say three magic words (chick-chick-chick), a well-aimed throw... then the whole flock is yours. They kissed each chicken and sent them away. You can even take a photo.

What's all this for? Besides, I repeat, fish are far from stupid. Your advantage is secrecy, surprise and precision of casting.

Casting nets are intended mainly for catching fish concentrations. (By the way, they are great at scooping out crayfish). The easiest and most effective way to find a concentration of fish is to feed a place, or even better, several. Everyone will be full, both you and the fish!

How to catch is clear - feed and cast quickly and beautifully!

Now - American type or
Spanish type?
American style

the pocket is created by fishing line slings.
After getting out of the water, the line and tackle are leveled, and the entire catch is quickly destroyed along with debris, etc. In the Spanish type,
the pockets are made initially, (structurally) and after pulling the gear ashore, you need to pick out the fish and debris by hand - it’s not at all convenient, and it gets on your nerves!

In short, definitely, American women!

Now what material is it - polyamide thread (ordinary nylon thread - like on nonsense) or monofilament (ordinary fishing line, like on all fishing rods). What to choose?

Polyamide thread is stronger, more durable and the network made from it is more repairable.

A fishing line casting net will be easier to work with (doesn’t get wet), and a little more catchy - it’s thinner, has less windage, so it sinks faster. Briefly and, I think, clear!

Let's not talk about sunken anchors. You can only dive there.

But there is no need to be particularly afraid of stones and snags.

When hooking, you need to reach with your hand (you can use a hook or a branch) to the small upper white sleeve and pull it - the fishing line lines will stretch out, there will be no pocket and the tackle will be freed.

Of course, you will lose your catch, but the tackle is intact. If this does not help, it means that the tackle is caught in the line sling, it’s also not a problem. Don’t pull or tear, but pull the rope and wait until the knot of the tensioned sling slowly but surely comes undone (it’s designed that way) and the tackle is freed. At the same time, you can walk left and right while holding the cord taut. Then, on the shore, turn the tackle over with the lines facing up, find the place where the line was untied and tie it again.

Casting net with a small ring - new for the 2015 season

A cast net with a ring greatly simplifies the casting technique, while the tackle falls into the water in the right circle. You only need to set the initial rotation when casting.

To do this, you need to lift the net above the ground with your arm extended upward and to the side at 45 degrees, stand towards the water with an angle of at least 270 degrees and, turning around, throw the tackle into the water.

A fisherman (woman, child) 1m 45cm tall will be able to cast a tackle with a radius of up to 1.5m.

A fisherman over 1m 70cm tall can cast a radius of 1.8m.

Casting net with large ring - the pinnacle of casting tackle perfection

In order to freely fish with casting gear with a radius of 2m or more, a height of more than 1m 80cm is required.

The large ring works on a completely different principle than the small one and allows you to cast a casting net with a radius of 2.7 m - even while sitting in a rubber boat, which gives the fisherman a completely new field of activity. The advantages are undeniable. The height of the fisherman here no longer matters, and casting is as easy as shelling pears!

Sitting, standing, lying down and kneeling!

Everything written is an easy introduction to this indescribable excitement of fishing with a casting net. Ask questions and we will try to answer everything.

Netting usually refers to professional or poaching fishing. Casting nets are a kind of exception to the general rule, in some way related to active sports fishing. Such nets are not installed permanently and are not moved by boat, but fishing with their help is carried out manually. Fishing with such a technical device is designed for an active search for fish and high physical activity of the fisherman, and therefore it will always be interesting.

Casting fishing nets

Fishing with a cast net, also called a parachute net, a cape net, etc., is one of the traditional fishing methods, typical for Asian and South American countries. In our area it is not very common, although many, looking at the high catchability of the gear and its apparent simplicity, would like to learn how to work with it. Learning to properly use such a network is a rather painstaking and time-consuming process, but anyone can master this art if they wish.

The essence of fishing is as follows:

• the net is wound around the hand in a special way and thrown to the chosen place;
• there it opens, covering a certain area of ​​​​water;
• its loaded part sinks to the bottom, forming a dome;
• a few seconds after casting, pulling the rope tied to the base, the angler tightens the loop;
• the fish that was under the net ends up in a kind of bag or pocket, and the net is raised to the surface.

There are two main types of casting nets, differing in their design and technique of use - American and Spanish.

American and Spanish are the two main types of casting networks

American type casting network

An American casting net with a ring is a round net, along the outer edge of which a nylon cord with lead weights is threaded. There is a hole in the center of the circle with a ring attached.

The outer circumference of the net and the central ring are connected by slings. At the top, the lines are passed through the hole and attached to the ring. The ring is connected with a swivel to a traction cord, which is designed for casting and retrieving the tackle.

When the net is pulled out of the water, the traction rope with the help of slings pulls the cord equipped with weights to the central part, and the net is tightened and creates a compact bag with no escape for the fish trapped inside.

There are two types of American net - with a large and small ring.

Fishing with a casting net with a large ring

An American type casting net with a large ring is also called a Frisbee. It is usually equipped with three rows of rings. A casting net with a large double ring is also often used.

The American casting net with a large ring is the easiest to cast and retrieve. During flight, it is guaranteed to open without tangling the lines.

The easiest to cast and retrieve is the American casting net.

Small ring casting net

A casting net with a small ring resembles a Spanish flu. When pulled, the small ring tightens the net and presses it against the rope. This cape can be used in harsher conditions than a frisbee. It works well even in strong gusts of wind, when other networks cannot cope.

The choice of the possible diameter of an American casting net with a small ring is directly related to the height of the fisherman:

• if the fisherman’s height is up to 145 cm, then he will be able to use a net whose diameter does not exceed three meters;
• with a height of 170 cm, you can choose a net with a diameter of up to three and a half meters;
• height exceeding 180 cm allows you to work with any networks, including four-meter ones.

Spanish type casting network

The main differences between the design of the Spanish casting network and its American counterpart are as follows:

• lack of slings;
• attaching the traction cord directly to the central part of the network;
• the location of the weights at some distance from the edge of the network.

These differences affect the behavior of the network as a result of abandonment. When pulling a casting net without a ring, the sinkers, under the influence of their weight and the tension of the rope, gather towards the center. This covers the exit for fish, which fall into pockets formed around the perimeter.

The Spanish type casting net is characterized by the absence of slings

Description of Spanish-type casting networks

In their design, Spanish women have some differences compared to American women. The design features of the Spanish flu include criteria such as:

• lack of slings;
• the pull cord is attached to the center;
• The sinkers are located a short distance from the edges.

Due to such differences in design, when casting into the water, the Spanish net behaves differently from the American-style casting net. While fishing it and pulling it ashore, the sinkers begin to collect in the central part. Thanks to this, all exits of fish caught in the pocket formed along its perimeter during casting into the water are blocked.

Making your own casting network

Naturally, you can buy a network in a store, but this solution has certain disadvantages:

• the cost of purchasing this equipment is quite high;
• standard design of the networks offered for sale.

Making a casting net with your own hands will allow you to take into account all the fisherman’s personal preferences when choosing gear and somehow reduce costs.

Let's look at how to make a casting net yourself, and for example, let's take the American one, as it is easier to manufacture. We will need the following materials:

1. The network fabric is made of monofilament, and you can either buy it at a retail outlet or knit it yourself. The width of the web should be equal to the radius of the network, and the length is defined as the diameter multiplied by the value of Pi (3.14). The cell size is selected based on the size of the planned catch: for catching fry - a small cell, and for catching large fish - a larger one.
2. A four-millimeter braided cord used as a cargo cord. Its length is equal to the circumference of the network, i.e. the calculated length of the network fabric.
3. A braided cord, about 7 mm thick, is used as a traction cord.
4. Lead weights must have a cylindrical elongated shape with a hole inside. Their weight, depending on the size of the net, should be in the range of 20-30 g. The number of sinkers you will need is large - from 200 to 300 pieces. You can buy them or cast lead yourself.
5. Monofilament fishing line, 1 mm in diameter, which will be used to make veins (slings).
6. A central ring for which you can take a plastic cylinder.
7. A thin fishing line for connecting the wedges of the mesh fabric and attaching a cargo cord to it.
8. Swivel for attaching a waste cord
9. Epoxy glue for securing knots.

Making your own casting net
The process of making your own casting net contains the following steps:

1. Cut the net fabric into wedges at an angle of 45ᵒ and connect them together using fishing line in a circle.
2. It is enough to often put weights on the cord, tie the ends of the cord, and also put a weight on the knot. Many people recommend flattening the weights with a hammer to increase the strength of their connection.
3. Attach the cord with weights with fishing line to the net along the outer circumference.
4. Attach the center ring to the hole in the center. If a cartridge is used, it is convenient to screw its two parts on top of the network, additionally gluing the joint with epoxy.
5. Tie the prepared fishing line for the veins every 40 cm to a cord with weights, and in the center pass it through the ring and connect it to the traction cord. The connection can be made using a swivel to avoid twisting. You can simply tie the slings to the cord in a knot and seal them with glue for reliability.
6. A loop is made on the second side of the cord for attaching it to your hand or belt when casting.

Design features of the gear

As for the design of the casting net, it consists of a net fabric in the shape of a regular circle, the edge of which is lined with a cord with fairly heavy weights. The network is pulled out using a central braided cord (twisted versions cannot be used) with a fairly large thickness, usually 5-6 millimeters. The length of this cord is 4-4.5 m, although most anglers double it over time. The end of the cord is equipped with a loop with a diameter of 20-25 centimeters.

Read: Coelacanth fish

In the American version, the central cord is attached at the other end to various slings that are pulled to the load cord. In Spanish models it is fixed to the central part of the network. It is this feature that distinguishes gear, determining different principles of operation.

When pulling out the American cape, the cargo cord is pulled up through the veins, which is necessary to collect the device into a compact lump, from which there is no exit for the fish. When the Spanish net is pulled out, all the sinkers move to the central part, and under the influence of their own gravity they close the exit.

In American models, a small round hole is made in the central part, the diameter of which is 5-6 centimeters. The mesh fabric is fixed at the edges to a sleeve made of plastic or fluoroplastic.

Which casting network to choose

Many people ask which casting network is better. But there is no clear answer to this question. It all depends on the purpose of its use and the fishing conditions. If you plan to use a net to provide yourself with live bait, the cell size should not exceed one centimeter. Fishing with a casting net at sea involves using an American net with a small ring, since a frisbee will not be effective in strong gusts of wind.

To determine which casting network to choose: American or Spanish, let’s consider their features.

The first has the following advantages:

• ease of throwing;
• high catchability;
• increased reliability and strength;
• comparative ease of self-production.

The main advantage of the Spanish fluke is the ability to use it in reservoirs with difficult terrain and a cluttered bottom, since it is less prone to snags.

Which casting network to choose: American or Spanish, there is no definite answer

The choice of the diameter of casting nets with a large ring does not depend on the height of the fisherman, but on the purpose of using the gear. But for other types of casting net, its diameter significantly affects the difficulty of casting.

For beginners, of course, it is easier to cast a smaller net, but you need to keep in mind that retraining to use larger nets is more difficult than vice versa. Therefore, when choosing the size of gear, it is better to initially buy exactly the option that the angler intends to use in the future. Moreover, if a fisherman knows how to work with a four-meter net, it is quite easy for him to master the art of casting smaller specimens.

Casting Network Comparison Chart

To use casting nets, the user does not need to take out a special permit or permit, however, the use of such equipment requires the fisherman to strictly comply with special regulations for catching various objects in water bodies. When choosing casting nets, it is recommended to pay attention to the material from which they are made, as well as their sinking ability. If you use the equipment presented in our rating in everyday life, or use other products, please share your experience and opinion in the comments.

See also:

See also:

How to cast a casting net correctly

Correct casting of the casting net is the most important and difficult thing in its use. Before throwing your fishing gear into the water, it makes sense to practice and learn all the intricacies on the shore. Naturally, for this you need to choose a convenient site in a field or meadow, having first cleared it of interfering bushes, tall grass and debris. Otherwise, the net will break and there will be nothing to catch. It must be remembered that the technique of casting casting nets of different types differs significantly.

Technique for casting a casting net with a ring

First, let's look at how to cast a casting net with a ring. In this case, it is necessary to take into account certain differences in casting a net with different rings.

Throwing a casting net with a large ring is the simplest and consists of the following:

1. We carefully straighten the net on the ground.
2. We release the middle ring, as a result the large one goes down to the cargo rope, and the small one presses the net.
3. We fasten the loop made at the end of the cord to the belt or put it on the wrist.
4. Unwind the traction cord.
5. We throw the tackle to the chosen place as if we were launching a flying saucer.

When running such a network, you don't need to turn your body when throwing or have a lot of skill.

The most important and difficult thing is to cast the casting net correctly

When casting casting nets with a small ring, the net is pulled out, causing the ring to press the bag against the rope. This type of casting is somewhat more complicated and is somewhat similar to throwing a Spanish flu.

Technique for casting a Spanish casting net

Now let’s look at how to cast a Spanish-type casting net. Preparing to cast it consists of the following steps:

1. The traction rope twisted into rings is taken in the left hand, and the loop at its end is put on the hand or, more securely, attached to the belt.
2. With your left hand, grab the net by the center and gently shake it to prevent loops from forming.
3. The upper part of the mesh, approximately a third of the radius, is assembled with several loops in the left hand.
4. The rope, equipped with weights, is taken in two hands, which we spread widely to stretch the free part of the tackle as much as possible. Sometimes professionals, in order to stretch the net even better, take one weight with their teeth.

At the moment of throwing, the body must be turned 180ᵒ and with a wide swing, straightening the body, perform the throw. In this case, you should ensure that the tackle flies into the water very gently and turns into a circle just before it touches the water. Sometimes it is recommended to make several swinging movements before throwing. Throwing a large casting net is naturally more difficult, but having practiced on it, it will be much easier to cope with a smaller net.

Design Features

This fishing tackle is a round net with weights attached to the edges. The tackle seems unusual, but it is widespread throughout the world, and, more recently, in Russia. The most difficult moment in its use is the proven casting technique. In order to develop it, you need to work a lot with such fishing tackle. It is arranged as follows.

In general, it is a piece of fishing net in the shape of a circle. A weight cord is sewn along the edge, on which several hundred weights are attached at small intervals. Attached to the cord are many slings of fishing line that pass under it and are threaded upward through a special neck. There they are collected together and attached to a throwing cord, the length of which in various cases ranges from 4 to 7 meters.

When fishing, this gear is thrown into the water and then carefully pulled ashore with the catch. This is what such fishing tackle looks like.

American type casting nets

Here it must be said that when speaking about networks of one type or another, we do not mean either the main manufacturers or the countries where they are most widespread. We are talking about the established names of different types of gear.

The American type is characterized by powerful slings and weights that are located along its edge. The principle of operation is that when rising, the lower edges come closer and capture the fish in a kind of bag. Another feature is the presence of a loop on the throwing cord, which is attached to the hand.

Casting nets of Spanish type

This type of net is known for having pockets that catch fish when the gear is lifted. Structurally, this is achieved by the fact that the weights are not located along the edge, but at some distance from it. When lowered into the water, pockets are formed, with the help of which fish are caught.

Casting net fishing technique

Fishing with a casting net involves not only casting, but also, of course, removing it from the water. The moment the sinkers touch the bottom, you must immediately select the net with a sharp jerk. This ensures an almost instantaneous connection of the weights, and, consequently, blocking the exit for the fish, and also reduces the likelihood of snags on the gear. After pulling, you must immediately clean the tackle from mud and aquatic vegetation. Otherwise, next time it may be thrown unsuccessfully and will only scare away the fish.

A casting net is used to catch peaceful and predatory fish.

Fishing with a casting net is quite versatile and is used for catching both peaceful and predatory fish. Very often this method is used in catching live bait. It makes no sense to use casting nets in very deep places and if the bottom is covered with snags, debris or abundant vegetation. All this will prevent you from fully capturing the fish and will only lead to numerous hooks.

Let's take a closer look at how to fish with a casting net from a boat and the shore.

Fishing from a boat

Casting net fishing from a boat will show much better results than fishing from the shore - it will allow you to cast the net into places inaccessible during shore fishing, and choosing the most promising ones. It is very convenient to catch pike in this way, bypassing shallow channels on a boat, surrounded on all sides by thickets of aquatic vegetation. It is also good to catch feeding perch gathered in schools with a cape.

When fishing from a boat, the most convenient way to fish is with an American-type casting net with a ring; it makes it possible to cast the tackle even while sitting. And to cast the Spanish fish, the fisherman will have to get up.

Fishing from the shore

When fishing from the shore, you should choose a flat, clean area for casting or clear it of bushes and weeds before throwing the gear. Such a net cannot be used when fishing from a high bank, bridge or cliff, since the sinkers will begin to connect together before the tackle hits the water. Fishing with a casting net in the current is also inconvenient and ineffective.

When used from the shore, a casting net will not be able to provide a good catch of large fish, because it is not often possible to cast it quite far - to places where large specimens are found. But it allows you, without much difficulty, to catch any number of small fish that can be used as live bait. Also, good results are shown when netting tench, which usually stands close to the water's edge in shallow places with weak currents and a muddy bottom.

To increase the efficiency of parachute fishing from the shore, it makes sense to use bait. Moreover, it is worth feeding several suitable places at once, and casting the net on them one by one, adding periodically fresh bait. In this case, it is necessary to achieve a sufficiently high casting accuracy in order to cover the baited area with the net. For convenience, it can be marked with a buoy. More accurate casts are ensured by fishing with a casting net with a large ring, as it is the easiest to cast.

Nylon (polyamide fiber) was first produced in Germany in 1938. During the war, German nylon fabrics partially replaced expensive parachute silk. By the 50s of the last century, the production of nylon threads was established in the USSR. And in the 60s, domestic factories producing linen (del) for fishing nets completely switched to nylon thread.

There has been a revolution in industrial and recreational fishing. Constantly rotting, fragile silk fiber or cotton threads were replaced by modern, resistant and especially strong nylon fiber. Nylon thread with a diameter of 0.1 mm can withstand more than 500 g of weight. With the advent of nylon nets and seines, commercial catches of marine and freshwater fish increased sharply.

Fishermen who love net fishing, with special permits or licenses, have the opportunity to catch trophy specimens of strong and fast fish, such as carp, which in former times often tore any nets. or seine and today does not lose its position in amateur fishing. Its strong threads, in case of a snag, allow you to pull out heavy snags and stones from the bottom silt. Powerful and durable nylon mesh fabrics are the main material for the installation of large industrial seines and trawls.

A simple single-wall net made of modern (including imported) nylon becomes softer with each fishing trip. If this network has not been dyed in the factory, it itself will gradually become dyed in water. It is quickly and easily dyed in any color using a regular aniline dye. Fishing net made of nylon

reliably encircles any, even cautious large fish, grabbing it by the gill covers and fins. The Japanese company Momoi Fishing is especially good, which are widely used for planting nets under the “Chameleon” brand.

Double-walled and three-walled nylon nets have a main fabric made of thin thread with a small mesh, say, 30 mm for large roach. In addition, this network is equipped with two or one row. The ryazhevy cloth is also placed on the upper and lower selections. The ryazh is made from thicker nylon thread with a mesh of 150-250 mm. This design of a nylon net allows you to wrap a small roach by the gills and at the same time catch large predatory fish of any size, which, with the help of a rye, fall into a special bag from the main fabric.

The nylon net, thanks to the high strength of the threads, allows you to speed up the removal of fish. When catching fish, you don’t have to exercise the extra care that is required to release nets made of thin monofilament from catches.

Nylon nets

durable if properly cared for. The field of each setting and excavation of the net must be dried and cleaned of mud and grass. It is better to store collected nets under a canopy, in a suspended state. They should be protected from direct sunlight. In such conditions, nylon nets recoup the costs of their acquisition many times over. You can buy high-quality nylon nets at affordable prices in our online store.

A nylon net is suitable for catching any fish. In conditions of increased water transparency, nylon nets are more visible to fish than nets made of thin fishing line. Therefore they are used for night staging. Nylon nets are indispensable during river floods, in muddy water, during the movement of various debris in the water, as well as during algal blooms in lakes and reservoirs. With a large development of shell rock at the bottom of the reservoir, a net made of nylon is much more reliable than one made from fishing line. It is much more difficult for sharp shell fragments to cut a nylon thread, consisting of many hundreds of the finest fibers, than a thin monofilament line.

Such nets are especially popular for licensed fishing of large northern fish in the lower reaches of the great Siberian rivers, in Yakutia, Chukotka and throughout the Far East. Some “fat content” of nylon threads helps reduce adhesion (sticking of frozen water) in winter - this is a very important advantage for winter fishing in the entire North of the Russian Federation. Nylon nets are repaired annually (they have excellent maintainability, unlike fishing line nets) and serve fishermen for decades. This is a proven, durable and reliable fishing tool.

For any fisherman, professional, sport or amateur fishing, be it fishing with nets, with a rod or spinning rod, should bring pleasure regardless of the season, weather: on a sunny clear day, slush or piercing wind. And here, in many respects, he is helped by high-quality, competently selected waterproof equipment and the required equipment. Let's take a brief look at fairly widespread, practical, convenient and affordable net equipment and choose Finnish fishing nets as an example.

Promising place for fishing

It is useless to start fishing in places that are too deep, where there is a fast current. It is better to avoid areas with snags or abundant vegetation, steep underwater edges and other obstacles. If you are fishing from the shore rather than from a boat, it is best to avoid areas with too many trees and bushes, as well as various annual vegetation, including sagebrush and weeds.

Read: What is better to put braid or fishing line on the feeder?

Fishing is ineffective from cliffs and embankments of bridges that rise more than two meters above the water surface. When fishing in unknown places, the risk of snags and damage to the net increases.

After the cord with the load is at the bottom, the tackle must be selected with sharp jerks. With their help, you can quickly bring the sinkers together and close the exit for the caught prey. The net also needs to be raised above the bottom to minimize snags.

Catching live bait and any other small prey in this way is very simple. All that is required of the fisherman is to correctly select a promising area and perform an accurate cast. In most cases, small fish are found in large schools, so you can get a huge number of fish from the depths at one time. It is not necessary to use a floating device for such purposes; it is much more convenient to cast the tackle from the shore.

Large representatives lead a solitary lifestyle, preferring areas remote from the coastal zone, where there are snags, stones and other obstacles. To catch them you need to put in a lot of effort and effort.

Fishing with a casting net is a really interesting, and for some, a new activity that requires proper preparation and effort. A responsible approach and adherence to the basic rules will allow you to achieve good results in this difficult but exciting task.

What is this fishing accessory?

These are quite soft, flexible, high-strength Finnish mesh fabrics with tear-resistant double knots. They are based on a monofilament fishing line 0.17-0.22 mm thick, resistant to ultraviolet radiation and sea water, in gray, blue, including a steel-colored sheen. Nylon (nylon nets) is also possible. This differs in the methods of planting network fabrics:

High-tech machine (Finnish or domestic, but on Finnish equipment and in accordance with the stated requirements); characterized by fixing the outer cells to the selection using a rigid fixation method;

Manual “on the run” - characterized by the absence of knots on the floating and cargo cords, and therefore free movement of a group of cells on a separate flint along the landing thread is achieved.

All Finnish networks are equipped with cords:

Solid floating (the so-called float, since some models have floats woven into the cord) - it is designed to avoid tangling of the net fabric and straightening it in the water;

A solid weight with a lead thread woven into it - it is designed to vertically immerse the net in water.

Thanks to the manufacturing technology, the cords do not get caught in the cells. As a rule, a floating cord is two times lighter than a weighting cord (for example, 6 g/m is acceptable versus 12/13/14 g/m, respectively). Having a line that is too heavy can have a negative impact on your catch, as it will create too much tension on the line, which is undesirable. However, if necessary, for example, in the presence of a fairly strong underwater current, the net can be additionally equipped with small lead weights. The edges of the net are tied with nylon, which provides even greater tensile strength.

Casting net (cape or parachute).

1.Casting network.

A casting net (cape or parachute) is one of the most ancient methods of catching aquatic life with a net. You can fish with it from a boat from the shore or from a pier. Wherever there is a convenient place to throw it, and where there is a good bottom you can catch with this net.

Casting networks are divided into 2 groups: “Spanish Women” and “American Women”. This division means a difference in their design and functionality.

The main difference between the American ones is the presence of slings stretching to the center of the network fabric. These slings pass from a thick rope through a ring located in the center of the net and are tied to a rope with weights tied around the perimeter of the net. During the throw, the net opens due to centrifugal forces and falls onto the surface of the water in its entire plane. Then, due to the weight-weight, the net is quickly immersed in water around the perimeter, and in the center

Due to water resistance, a small dome of network is formed. This net can be used to fish both in the water column and from the bottom. If the bottom is good, then you can wait until the net falls to the bottom and immediately pull the rope. If the bottom is not very good, then without waiting for the net to fall to the bottom, you need to pull the rope tied to the slings in the center of the net. This will avoid unwanted snags. Further, continuing to pull, the slings will pull all the sinkers into one place - the net closes. At the same time, the middle of the net will lower and pockets will form on the sides where the caught fish will be clogged. When the sinkers begin to rise and press against the center of the net, the fish will not escape anywhere. Such nets are usually made from fishing line or nylon thread. The weight of a net with a diameter of ~3 m with weights is about 2.2 kg.

Spaniards do not have such slings. Closing the network is ensured by a cord stretched along the perimeter of the entire network, pulling which tightens the ring of the network - a circular drag is obtained.

Unlike Americans, due to these design features, the Spanish can reach up to 7 kg (D=3m) in weight! It all depends on the diameter of the network. They are usually made from nylon thread.

What type of network to buy or make for yourself is up to you! I advise you to go to the store, look and decide which one you need.

But for my region where there are silted ponds and small rivers, American is suitable for me. And it is easier to use. It’s easier to pull out the catch, easier to prepare for the throw, and it’s lighter. But for faster rivers the Spanish Flu would be more suitable.

The prices for casting networks in Russia are too high. You can buy a Chinese one with a diameter of 2.5 m in the store for 2-4 thousand rubles. And normal ones will cost even more. It would be cheaper to buy it in foreign online stores, but according to customs rules, all fishing equipment and their parts for catching animals are PROHIBITED for transportation! Therefore, it is more profitable to make such a network yourself. It will take a long time, but you will get the network you need.

To make a cape net (its fabric), a regular net fabric is not suitable, since such a net will have cells stretched diagonally in the four corners when thrown and pulled. Because of this, the canvas in the elongated state can have the same radius, and when it opens, it can become square-like (or vice versa). Because of this, it won’t be possible to throw and the canvas will get tangled. From ordinary fabric, you can sew a casting fabric from triangles, so as to prevent the cells from stretching diagonally. But such networks will have many seams and there may be problems with load balance, which will affect the quality of the network opening.

The fabric must be knitted by hand or ordered from craftsmen.

I made such a network myself with a diameter of 3 m. cell=1.7cm. The thickness of the fishing line is 0.24 in about 1 month, but I knitted it whenever I had to. As a result, 28,000 knots were tied, 900 m were spent. fishing line (250 rub.) +50 rub. 75m. fishing line 0.8 for slings +10 rubles swivel +35 rubles 20m. BRAIDED rope for body kit +20 rubles 10m. ropes for pulling (preferably also braided, but not essential) TOTAL = 415 rubles + lead from batteries. I used cheap “Klin” fishing line in reels, now I regret it. You need to take an inexpensive fishing line, but without memory! Klinskaya is a bit stiff, but it remembers the knitting position - then it springs back.

For knitting we will need:

1. Make a shuttle and template
2. Line for canvas. For cells from 15mm. up to 25mm, a fishing line D=0.20 (0.25) without memory is suitable. You can calculate the length of the fishing line and the expected amount of work in tablica seti
3. Line for slings D=0.8. 100m coil is enough.
4. Rope for body kit. Nylon, wicker!!! See the length in the same table. Select the diameter depending on the weight of the sinker. Usually they recommend 5mm, but for me it’s 3mm. went great.
5. Rope for pulling the net. Nylon, thickness from 10mm (so as not to cut your hands) is also wicker.
6. Sinkers calculated at 1.2 kg. at 1m of network radius.
7. The swivel is stronger.
8. PVC pipe (connection) 32”
9. Plastic plate or bottle cap.
10. more

Making a shuttle for knitting a net.

Shuttles for knitting nets come in different types.

Basically, for weaving nets with large meshes, plate shuttles with two or one pointed side are used. Such shuttles are now sold in almost every fishing store and cost about 50 rubles.

These shuttles can be made of wood, plastic, textolite, metal plate or wire. It’s your choice of what to make from and what materials are at hand.

First, a plate is cut out in the form of a rectangle, the length of which should be from 15 to 30 cm. There is no point in making it longer as it will be inconvenient to weave. Longer ones can be used when weaving strong nets with thread or rope for hammocks. The width of the workpiece should be less than the mesh size of the future network, but sufficient to ensure the strength of the shuttle. For example, when I knitted a 1.7 cm mesh net, I used a 1.4 cm wide shuttle.

1. I recommend using a duralumin plate to make the shuttle. It is easy to process, the material itself is quite elastic and light, and sharp edges can be smoothed to a mirror state, which makes weaving easier.

2. Next, on one side of the plate, you need to make two cuts with a hacksaw at the same distance from the edge (see the black dotted line on the left), and on the other side, cut off two triangles, giving the shuttle a pointed shape.

3. Next, use pliers to break out a piece between the slots as in the picture along the red line. You should get two horns. And at the other end, many holes are drilled in a “U” shape. For braiding with 0.24-0.35 fishing line, the optimal gap at the top of the “U” will be about 2-3 mm. If you do more, the line will spontaneously fall off the shuttle during weaving.

4. Carefully process the break point (on the left) with a file, smooth out all sharp edges and irregularities. At the right end, use a file or other tool to grind off the partitions between the drilling holes and also remove all irregularities.

5. Next, you need to process the entire resulting shuttle with sandpaper or a needle file. There should be no sharp edges or irregularities on it.

The line needs to be wound from one edge to the other. On the left, the fishing line is passed between the horns, then from the side where it comes out the fishing line is put in a loop on the remaining rod inside the “U”, then the fishing line is again led between the horns to the other side. etc.

The same shuttle is sometimes made pointed on both sides. But it seems to me that this will create more problems when making it and winding the fishing line.

In the next version of the shuttle, there is no core inside the “U”, but thin cuts are made on the edges for the passage of the fishing line. These shuttles can hold a lot of fishing line. The fishing line is wound by alternately threading it through thin cuts at the edges.

These same shuttles are sometimes made of elastic wire. The wire is bent in this shape, after which another thinner wire, thread or electrical tape is wrapped in the center to give the shuttle strength. The fishing line is wound in the same way as the first shuttle discussed. In fact, this is what it is, only made of wire.

For knitting with a thin thread or thin fishing line of a network with a mesh size of less than 10 mm. It is better not to use a regular plate shuttle. In this case, due to the small size of the mesh of the network, every millimeter of the mesh should be saved so that as much fishing line as possible can be wound on the shuttle, and then it can be easily pulled through the mesh when tying knots. A needle-shaped shuttle made of thin elastic steel wire is suitable. To make it, you need to cut two pieces of wire of the same length. Next, using a vice and pliers, bend both ends of the wire as follows:

Both wires must be bent at each end so that the edges and places of bends coincide along the axes indicated in the figures.

When both wires are prepared, they need to be connected by wrapping them with a ton of wire or in some other way to ensure their immobility relative to each other.

Now the ends of the wires (see left) need to be slightly bent so that they rest against each other (see right end). And additionally, the ends of each wire on the outside can be sharpened, giving them a pointed shape. And grind down the places where the ends of the wires come into contact so that planes are formed with which they will touch, but sharp edges of the wires must not be allowed to remain in these places!

Now the shuttle is ready for winding fishing line or nylon thread onto it. The fishing line must be wound from one end of the shuttle to the other, passing it between the touching ends of the wire. To make it easier to wind the wire at both ends of the shuttle, you can bend it slightly (only while winding the fishing line) - this will not only make it easier to thread the fishing line between the ends of the wire, but will also prevent unnecessary friction and damage to the fishing line on the remaining sharp edges.

To ensure that all network cells are the same size, a template plate is used. It can be made from anything. The main thing is that it is thin and durable. During the weaving process, you will repeatedly wind loops of fishing line around this template, which can lead to the appearance of cuts from the fishing line on its edges, to which it will cling. Therefore, in order not to make the template several times, it must be made of scratch-resistant material. For example, textolite, aluminum or some types of plastic. If you knit a little, you can use unnecessary plastic cards (bank cards, discount cards, etc.)

The length should be about 10-13 cm (this depends on the size of your palms). The length should be such that the template fits comfortably in your hand. The width of the template is equal to the cell size of your future network.

After you have cut the template to the required dimensions, carefully sand it with fine sandpaper to make it smooth. There should be no sharp edges or edges on it!

3.Knitting the net fabric.

I don't know exactly what this node is called. I have been knitting with it since childhood, as someone taught me. In principle, the knot is good, it does not stretch, but perhaps in comparison with the others it takes a little longer to knit, but when you learn how to knit it you will be able to knit very quickly.

I divided the knitting order shown in the picture into 6 stages using colors and numbers.

1. (necessary at the very beginning of knitting when we don’t have a single row yet) We tie a loop on a fishing line, the edge of which is fixed somewhere. See Fig.1 - Black

2. We already have a loop or loops from the previous row of the network. We thread the shuttle through the loop. See Fig.2 - Blue

3. Insert the template plate into the resulting new loop and pull the shuttle, pulling the fishing line and squeezing the template with it. See Fig.3 - Gray

4. While the fishing line is still stretched, press it with your finger to the template, thereby fixing it. Hold your finger. See Fig.4 - Orange

5. We hold our finger. And we draw the shuttle with fishing line around the previous loop (into which we threaded the black one in steps 1 and 2 ). We move the shuttle to the side. See Fig.5 - red

6. We hold our finger. And we pass the shuttle into the previous loop (into which we threaded the black one in steps 1 and 2 ) on the right. In this case, the loop from point 5 should also remain on top as in the figure. Then we pass the shuttle into the loop, which we still hold with our finger on the front side (closest to us).

Now, without releasing your finger, pull the shuttle and line down. at the same time, the loops of points 5. and 4 . And when you feel that the tension of the fishing line has reached your finger and there is no excess fishing line left on the loops, loosen your finger and continue to pull the shuttle until the loop under your finger is completely tightened.. See Fig. 6-Purple

You should start knitting the network with a set of primary loops. The knitting itself will be from the center of the network circle to its edge, so you can choose the diameter of the network yourself, the one you need or how much patience you have.

So, first you need to decide which way to knit in the round. There are two ways. The first is in a spiral from the center and the second in circles.

In any of the options, first we make a loop on the fishing line, see in Figure “1”, onto which we then cast on the required number of initial loops. I usually knit about 16 stitches. But it should be taken into account that the other end of the fishing line (not the one on the shuttle) should be left longer - approximately equal to the radius of the future net.

Now we knit the second third and fourth row. This way we get a rectangular network fabric. see figure “2 and 3”

For this fabric you need to tie the beginning and the end so that you get a ring of mesh. see figure "4"

Next, we knit the remaining rows of the future network to the ring from one of the edges, simultaneously increasing the number of loops in each subsequent row (this is necessary for your network to increase in radius).

see in figure "5"

Well, if you want to weave in a spiral, then when tying the edges of the network, make a shift by 1 row (i.e. tie the end of the 1st row to the beginning of the 2nd, the end of 2 to the 3rd), after which the end of the 4th row will remain free. Next, to the free end of the 4th row, we will begin to knit the remaining loops, gradually increasing their number in each subsequent row, thereby increasing the number of spirals of the network and increasing the radius of the network, and so on ad infinitum.

Now about adding loops. This is necessary so that your network increases in radius, but at the same time remains flat and not in the form of a pipe or cone. To do this, you can calculate for yourself that it is necessary to increase the number of cells of each row or spiral by the number = PI = 3.14 - this is ideal. But in fact, after you tie it, the net will be pulled into a cone due to the memory of the fishing line. Therefore, increase the number of loops by 4 or 5 cm
in Figure “6.”
Now about knitting methods. I would still advise weaving in rows (parallel rings). With this method, when casting, the net opens up better.

I also advise you to mark with some marks on the network canvas the places on the circles where you need to add the number of cells (for example, I use tapes with Velcro). This is necessary in order to remember to add cells exactly where needed. Naturally, they need to be removed and moved to the right places.

see in figure "7"

Also, in order to avoid curvature of the mesh circumference on each new weaving row, you should shift the place where cells are added by +1 cell!

For example, we started the network with 16 cells, we need to add 4 cells to each new row, which means that on the new row the places where +1 cells are added (four times) will be located through 4 cells of the previous row 16/4 = 4, etc. for the next row the number of cells is already 16+4=20, and the places where cells are added are 20/4=5 cells. Etc. But do not forget to shift the places where you add cells by +1 cell in the row.

see picture

If during knitting you forgot to add cells in any place, it’s okay to make another +1 cell in the next row - in the future this defect will be leveled out and will be invisible, but try not to make such mistakes. It’s better, of course, if you notice the omission of adding a cell before you finish the row and add the missing cell to the same row.

4. Casting sinkers.

There are many different options for casting sinkers with ready-made holes for the rope. Basically, they are based on one simple principle - lead is poured into a mold with a steel core (rod) in it, which is then removed. Believe me, drilling holes takes much longer, and due to the viscosity of lead, there is a chance of breaking a bunch of drills.

First I tried to carve the shape of the sinkers into two plaster plates. At the same time, it is very difficult to carve in the already hardened plaster the very shape of the future sinkers, a groove for placing a steel rod in it, and even so that it is all symmetrical on both plates!

Accordingly, due to these same difficulties, the resulting weights were very crooked, scary, and the injection molds did not always match.

After struggling with them, I found an easier and faster way to cast with a hole.

In the same plaster plates, using this device, I drilled several holes of the diameter I needed. And the knitting needle sticking out in the center additionally drilled a small recess into which I later inserted a steel rod to create a hole in the weight. This can also be done using drills and drills. And this thing just fell into my hands. This seems to be the former pointer of a pressure gauge or other pointer instrument.

During the casting process, I tried to drill such holes from the flat side of the plaster, but this greatly increases the overlay on top of the mold, which will have to be trimmed further in the future. Therefore, I advise you to make a gypsum plate 3-5 mm thick. larger holes (on the sides), which will ensure easy drainage of excess poured lead from the surface of the mold.

The casting process itself is very simple. Melt lead in an iron tin can. Insert the steel core into the center of the mold (exactly into the recess whose diameter should approximately coincide with the steel core rod). The diameter of this rod should be equal to or slightly larger than the diameter of the rope later used to hang the net.

Once all the lead has melted, take the jar with pliers and pour it into the mold. I advise you to tilt the mold a little so that excess lead flows to one side. While the lead is cooling in the mold, but has not yet hardened, rotate the steel rod along the axis - this will prevent the cooling lead from sticking. As soon as the lead begins to harden (it becomes like porridge, even grains are visible J), ​​pull out the rod.

Next, fill in the remaining mold holes in a similar manner.

Having cooled a little in the mold, the lead shrinks and you can pull out the resulting sinker blank by lightly shaking it.

The plaster mold must be dry! You can’t cool it or the lead in it with water! In the first case, there is a chance that lead will splash on you and burn you, and in the second, the form will simply crack!

It should be noted that from my own experience I know that in order for the sinkers to be less confused with the net fabric, they need to be made of an elongated, cylindrical shape. It is desirable that their length be equal to two cell sizes.

When casting, you get these ready-made but not yet processed sinker blanks. Here you can clearly see that the excess lead has stacked on the side of the mold, and the buildup is very small.

Next, you need to cut off the entire overlap with wire cutters. Carefully collect the scraps and pour them into a jar for re-melting.

So that when using the sinkers they do not cling, scratch or cut the fishing line or rope, then it is necessary to smooth out the sharp edges remaining after trimming the excess. Although the metal is soft, there is a small chance of damaging the network fabric.

We will smooth the edges using the rolling method. To do this, pour all the finished, cut weights into a plastic bottle or canister (it all depends on the volume and size of your weights). According to the technology, you can also add several large balls from bearings, but special +

will not be. Now this bottle or canister needs to be shaken, kicked or whatever else you can think of, the main thing is that the weights inside shake, hit and rub against each other. They need to be taken out when ready. The edges should be rounded, without burrs or sharp edges. You can also add a little paraffin to the bottle when rolling, so that in the future the sinkers will get less dirty on your hands.

5.Assembling the body kit.

Finished weights with holes should be washed with water and dried.

To make a net kit, weights need to be placed on a nylon braided rope. A twisted rope is not suitable, as it may subsequently affect the opening of the net when throwing. Or simply, it will get tangled with slings and nets, twisting under the weight of the sinkers.

Since the net is nylon, and even braided, to make it easier to attach the sinkers, as well as to prevent the upper braid of the rope from moving relative to the inner one, one end of it must be melted over a fire and while it is hot, give an elongated, refined needle shape.

Having strung all the sinkers, they need to be secured on a rope at an equal distance, so that the weight is enough for your net (1.2 kg/1 m radius). This can be done in 3 ways:

1. Simplest. You can squeeze the sinkers a little by holding the rope inside. But with this method there is a chance of crushing the rope. And if you make a mistake with the distance between the weights, it will be impossible to redo it, and the weights can only be cut off and melted down.
2. Having placed the weight at the required distance from the previous one, secure it by tying knots with fishing line or nylon thread on both sides. In this case, it will be possible to redo the detected errors.
3. Secure the sinkers with knots of the same rope. It will also be possible to correct the error without damaging the weights. But you will have to untie knots, a bunch of knots, or cut the rope.

6. Linking the body kit to the network.

You can tie the kit to the net using fishing line or nylon thread pre-wound on the shuttle - this is more convenient.

Before tying the body kit, you need to calculate how many net cells should be located between the weights and at what distance so that the net cells are neither compressed nor stretched. And monitor the uniformity of the number of cells while knitting. It is advisable to tie a suspension to each cell to more evenly distribute the load on the network fabric.

After the kit is completely tied to the network, you need to tie the ends of the rope with two ordinary knots and tighten them tightly with pliers. The knot can also be wrapped with nylon thread, giving it additional strength. Or, after tightening the knots, both ends can be cut off, melted over a fire and fused into one ball, which will also prevent the rope from coming undone. It would be enough.

If the loads are small, then they can be secured to the rope several at a time. For example, my loads turned out to be too small, 5-6 grams each. For my network with a radius of 1.6 m, 2 kg of weights are needed. At the base, the network had about 410 cells. Which means to hang 2 kg. Weights then need to be tied 1 to each loop. It would be long and tedious, so I grouped the loads in groups of 3 and secured them with knots of the same rope. In this version, the rope with weights gets even less tangled in the net and its mobility is not limited.

7.Attaching the slings

Before we start tying the slings, it is necessary to make and secure a pass-through ring. This ring is necessary so that when casting and pulling the net, the lines do not get tangled with the net itself, but pass freely through it.

For manufacturing you will need a PVC adapter tube with a diameter of 32-25 used for welding PVC water pipes.

On the wide part it is necessary to machine or melt a groove of small depth.

Next, string the center of the network fabric with a nylon thread (around the hole left during weaving). This hole in the center is where you started the first rows of your net when weaving

Then pull the hole with the nylon thread onto the prepared PVC tube and firmly fasten the net fabric to the tube by winding it with the remnants of the same nylon thread. It should look like in the photo:

The photo shows that I fused two wires in the center of the PVC tube. They are necessary to divide the slings into four groups - according to sectors of the network. This will provide additional separation between the lines so that they do not stick together when casting. Later I removed them, but it turned out in vain! Without these wires, wet slings began to stick together more strongly, which greatly interferes with the good opening of the net.

8.Manufacture and fastening of slings.

Slings for American-type casting nets are made from fishing line with a thickness of 0.8-1 mm. The fishing line must be without memory so that it does not get tangled. First you need to calculate how many slings you will need. Many casting network manuals offer this calculation option. Considering that the slings should be tied at least every 40cm. you need to divide the circumference of the straightened net by 40. Let’s say I have a net in the straightened state (flat circle) with a radius of 1.6 m. Then its length is L=2*P*R =10.048 m. number of lines = 10.048/0.4=25.12

It turns out that my network will require 25 lines. But there is a minus in this calculation! The number of weights tied to the net between the slings may be different, which will upset the balance of the net.

It is better to count the total number of sinkers (or groups of sinkers) connected to the network. measure approximately how many sinkers need to be placed so that the distance is within 40 cm and divide the total amount by the amount in the measured distance.

You may have to experiment a little with the distance between future sling attachments and the number of weights between them. It is necessary to select such a number of weights between the lines that when dividing the total number of weights by the number of them between the lines, the number closest to the whole is obtained.

Now cutting the slings:

The length of the sling differs from the radius of the circle of the straightened net! When you take the net by the ring in the center of the circle and lift it from the net, all the cells are stretched diagonally. This extended length should be used for slings. You can measure it with a meter, having stretched out the net in advance. Or a more accurate method is to count the number of rows of the network (the number of circles of the network) from the center to the edge (you can count the knots). Then multiply the calculated amount by the size of the side of the cell. This is exactly how long all slings should be + allowance for a loop and knot of about 15-20 cm for each sling.

On each cut sling, you need to tie a loop on one side with a single or double knot. The loops of all slings should be approximately the same.

To align, string all the slings in loops onto a hard object, such as a nail driven somewhere. Next, smooth out the slings, untangle them along their entire length and pull them out. Now measure the distance of the length of the sling from the knots of the loops (without the previously added margin) and add 1 cm to it. (The slings are still gathered together and extended) at this distance we will tie the rope with weights. This distance now needs to be marked with a marker on each line!

Now everything is ready for binding. Place the net with the inside facing up.

One sling at a time, alternately tie them to a rope with weights at the previously calculated distance. And don’t forget about the mark on the lines made with a marker! The knot must be located at this mark! I do not recommend using a regular knot tied twice as it ruins the fishing line. In the place where you pull the knot, the sling may break (as it already happened to me).

I tried this one (1)

knot and it hasn’t let me down yet (the line in this knot does not tighten, but wraps around the rope and has a self-tightening knot):

Having tied this knot, I advise you to tie the remaining short end to the rope with a double knot, just in case. (2)

, and then tie a single one next to it
(3).
All three knots must be knitted very close to each other. This line catch combination will last forever!

By the way, do not rush to cut off the remaining short pieces from the slings. In many methods of casting a casting net, the lower edge of the net (the rope itself with weights) is taken into the mouth, but since after the first cast it can already be dirty, it is better to take with your teeth not the rope, but just these remaining pieces of lines. The fishing line still retains less silt and dirt on its surface.

Now, so that the lines do not get tangled in the future when casting, take them one by one along the circumference of the net and string them on a thick rope. When all the slings are strung, tie all the loops of the slings with several knots and pull the entire resulting bundle through a ring of PVC tube tied in the center of the net.

Now the net can be turned over with the outer side up. Pull a plastic plate with a hole in the center with a radius of about 1.5-2 cm over the sling loops tied together; this will serve as a limiter for the slings. You can use a plastic bottle cap. The plate (plug) must be lowered below the nodes (on the slings themselves). Wrap the hinge nodes with several layers of electrical tape so that the nodes cannot slip back through the plastic plate.

Tie a strong swivel onto the same rope after the knots with loops. The swivel will prevent twisting of the pulling rope, slings and net web, since when casting the net rotates along its axis. A thick braided rope is tied to another ring of the swivel to pull the net out of the water.

To pull the net, you need to tie a small self-tightening loop at the free end of the rope, which will secure the rope to your hand when casting.

All! Now your casting net is ready to fish. Good luck with your fishing and fewer snags!

PS photo of my first catch:

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Finnish network: shape and size

Finnish networks vary depending on the length of the cell. By length they are divided into 10, 30 and 60 meters. Their shape resembles a trapezoid. This helps to adapt to uneven bottoms and high catches. The height can be for 10 and 30-meter products - from 0.9 m to 1.8 m (in increments of 60 meters - 3 m. It should be taken into account here that manufacturers indicate the height of the networks in tension, working condition, in At rest, the height of the network will be 15-20 centimeters less.

DIY casting network photo

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Application

Finnish fishing nets are easy to use. They are designed for fishing both in small muddy ponds and in rivers and lakes that are larger in size and depth. This can be either ice fishing or open water, with or without currents. In cases where fishing is planned in snag-laden northern river waters and one hundred percent confidence in the strength of the net is required, you can resort to purchasing a net made from Finnish rigid twisted fishing line (0.15 mm x 3), but the catch may be slightly reduced. There are varieties of Finnish nets supplied with a shuttle. The most common are single-walled gills, or “gills” (the name comes from the way the fish clings to the net - with gills). There are also three-wall nylon nets. But they are slightly less popular.

Many people today are ready to buy Finnish fishing nets. Reviews from avid fishermen confirm their reliability, durability and catchability. They have proven themselves on the positive side for more than 10-15 years, and to this day continue to be popular and in demand.