The ideal “non-snag” sinker for fishing with a lead leader and drop shot
The usual load “Wand” often gets stuck and breaks off on the trash bottom, avoiding obstacles. How much “lead” lies in the rivers!
An ingenious solution to avoiding a cliff and “saving” your nerves while fishing was proposed by Alexander Milkin. He has been fishing with such loads for more than 10 years. As he says, once during the season he fished without even retying the sinker - he only changed the leads and rubber.
There is, of course, the “Tyrolian stick” or “Ballerina”, but this is a completely different option.
To make it you will need a hair dryer and a piece of IV tube.
The tube is heated over a hairdryer almost to the melting point. When it “floated”, we begin to slowly stretch it.
The main thing in this matter is not to rush! You need to ensure that the middle cools down, but the edges are not yet there.
When everything is ready, cut off the excess - you should get a silicone cone-shaped proboscis. The diameter of its wide part matches the diameter of the sinker, and the narrow side is almost equal to the diameter of the fishing line.
He casts the weights himself and then modifies them a little. Instead of a loop (like the classic one), it has a cone and a pair of machined grooves for tying fishing line and holding the cone cambric.
Scheme and drawing of the “non-hooking” weight:
On the left is the shape of the casting and the dimensions of the hole, and on the right is the load itself.
You can see the production itself in the video:
Test and more detailed description:
This simple, but very useful “high-pass” sinker “non-snag” will help you more than once when fishing with a lead leash or a drop shot.
NHNCH (No tail, no scales) to everyone! Follow the release of new publications - it will be even more interesting!
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BLADEBAITS WITH YOUR HANDS
The modern fishing goods market never ceases to amaze even the most sophisticated buyer with all sorts of wonders. Something like this happened at one time with lures under the general name “bladebaits”, which can be translated into Russian as “blade bait”.
It received its name for its characteristic flat section and, possibly, some similarity with the blade of a blade (photo 1). We will need a metal plate with a thickness of 0.3 to 1 mm (this depends on the dimensions of the future bait, as well as on the elasticity of the material used: the resistance to deformation of copper and stainless steel with the same thickness is completely different, and most importantly, the bait should not lose its working properties under loads arising during its operation.
It should be noted that the larger the workpiece, the thicker the plate should be, and working at home with 1.5 mm “stainless steel” is quite difficult, so I myself make baits no larger than 4-5 cm.
I draw the outline of the future workpiece on a metal plate by hand or outline a template (photo 2). If there is a need to make several identical baits, then I fasten the cut-out blanks with a hand vice (photo 3) and grind them on an emery wheel. I do the final finishing with a file. Now you need to drill a hole to attach the rear hook. If we want to equip the bait by attaching the hook through the winding ring, then we can drill what is called “into the edge”, but when equipping it with a double, the hole must be shifted enough to prevent the hook from slipping behind the back of the spoon. This will prevent unwanted jamming of the twin in the tail hole (photo 4).
DIY feeder feeder
You can make a feeder for the feeder yourself from available materials: a plastic bottle, cork, mesh and even curlers. Let's look at each method in more detail. And Dmitry Kulmanakov, head of the Novosibirsk feeder fishing club, will help us with this. First of all, Dmitry suggested figuring out what a feeder feeder is, and how these feeders are divided according to their purpose.
Any feeder feeder is needed by a fisherman in order to “deliver” bait to the fishing point to attract and retain fish at one point in the selected body of water. Simply put, to lure and force people to pay attention to the bait.
Starter feeding. This type of feeder feeder has large cells, the food from which is washed out with water quickly and easily. They are needed to feed the area before fishing. The fisherman casts such a feeder several times, and when it touches the bottom, he makes a hook so that the food is washed out.
Supplemental feeding for standing water. When using such feeders, the fisherman should be aware that in stagnant water the food is washed out of them more slowly than in a body of water with current. This means that the cell size must be large.
Supplementary feeding for strong currents. And here the form plays a major role. The main thing is that such a feed has a flat bottom, with weights. The cell should be small.
Live food. In nature, there are also such feeders, using which the fisherman “brings live bait to the table” for the fish. For example – maggots, larvae, worms, bloodworms, etc.
We’ve sorted out the feeders, now it’s time to figure out whether it’s possible, and most importantly, is it advisable to assemble them at home on your knee? As Dmitry explained to us, fishermen manage to make a feeder reel from something that, it would seem, has been lying around at home for a long time, unused, and is about to be thrown into a landfill.
VIBRO-TAIL + NEW NON-HITCH
Very often you want to cast the bait further away, so we choose a vibrating tail with a heavier jig head, but due to the large weight it cannot be cast slowly, and if the retrieve is too fast, the predator does not have time to react to it. The vibrotail described below allows for slower retrieval and will remain in the predator’s field of vision long enough to provoke it into grabbing.
Also, this vibrating tail will allow fishermen to catch predators in shallow water or above aquatic vegetation. In places with weak current or its complete absence. In addition, unlike a standard jig bait, which quickly sinks with its head down and tail up, this vibrating tail sinks slowly, maintaining an almost horizontal position.
Silicone in snags. The best non-snag
Date: January 25, 2021 | 928
When fishing with a spinning rod in general, and when fishing with soft silicone baits in particular, the angler very often encounters snags, hooks on the bottom and in the water column. On the one hand, the angler is annoyed by snagging and losing bait on snags. On the other hand, he himself often looks for such rubble or individual snags, because... near them there is often a concentration of fish and many bites occur. You have to find a balance between the desire to catch a predator and the risk of getting caught. In this article I want to talk about the use of various installations of silicone baits in snag conditions. Determine the best non-snags , installations that best pass through rubble and avoid snags.
Snags can be very different in their essence, composition, and geometry. The presence of a current in this place greatly affects the danger of snags.
It happens that a snag is just a separate flooded tree , and only its trunk part (the branches were broken off by time, they rotted, or they were carried away along with the broken off top).
Such an obstacle at the bottom is very common. Predatory fish, pike, pike perch, large perch, love to stand behind such a log, under it.
Finding individual sunken trees like these and jigging them is a good way to get bites and catches.
Such a simple snag in its essence, however, not every jig installation will go through without getting caught.
So, the anti-champion, the worst installation in terms of non-clinging, should be recognized as a hinged installation based on a double or triple hook.
Only if such equipment passes exactly over the tree, there will be no snag. If contact happens, the probability of a hook, in my opinion, is at least 70-80%.
The hinged mounting with a single open hook has a slightly better non-clinging indicator. Simply due to fewer hooks...
Even a regular jig head passes through such places better. Although, she sits down very often. And for now we are considering the simplest type of snag...
Jig heads of different shapes have different driftwood penetration. Some are better at overcoming obstacles - others are very bad at it. Sometimes a jig head in the shape of a boot or a fish head works well on snags.
Installing such snags with a jig head, on which wire or line protection against snags is installed, works somewhat better. Such tricks work with individual snags, but in the rubble, in dense snags, they are practically useless.
In practice, with close to 100% non-clinging properties, any installations on an offset hook can jump over such logs.
Now let's go through more complex snags and see how things are there.
A snag can be a whole tree or bush, with branches and root system.
These can be entire rubble of sunken trees and individual branches. Such snags can be clearings, flooded at the bottom of reservoirs, or rubble caused by rivers. The formation of snags is always different. This makes them dangerous and interesting.
The snag can only be located at the very bottom, some fragments may be located in the thickness, or even come to the surface. Such multi-level thick snags are hell for a spinner. But, if you get creative, good trophies often await you there.
So, in dense snags, and even in the current, all the above-mentioned installations are simply no good. All that remains is to evaluate the offset hook and installations using it.
There is one interesting opportunity to catch snags by using spaced rigs, such as a diverting leash and a drop shot. The idea here is that the streamlined sinker will go along the bottom, and the bait with a hook will go higher. The main thing here is to know the snag well. And this will work if the driftwood, the blockage, is at the very bottom, without rising to the middle layers. If you guess the distance from the load to the place where the leash or drop-shot hook is attached, then you can fish the area without any hooks at all and lure out a predator stuck in the support. All that remains is the risk of getting the weight stuck among the branches. But this risk is much less than getting caught on a hook. And also, weights, especially homemade ones, are much cheaper than bait with a hook.
Such a spaced rig, like the Carolina one, is not very good in snags, because bait on a separate leash often gets caught in snags.
Not very thick snags can be easily overcome by hinged mounting based on an offset hook.
But, in thicker debris, the Cheburashka sinker very often gets jammed. And now we are coming to the moment to name the best setup for fishing among snags. The title of best hook-free bait in the section of fishing with silicone baits goes to Texas equipment.
The bullet-shaped weight, sliding along the leash, practically does not jam among the branches, and the offset hook most reliably avoids snags.
In order for the offset hook to fit better and hide in the body of the bait, it is desirable that it have a longitudinal groove, a cut on the back. Many models of modern edibles have it. So, there are no problems with this.
Naturally, in especially dense multi-tiered rubble and snags, even installations on offset hooks, even Texas, do not completely protect against snags. But, when compared with all other equipment, the loss of bait with this method is minimal.
Also, it should be noted that the lighter the bullet weight used for Texas installation, the better it passes obstacles at the bottom, snags. The same rule applies to all other installations. Lighter load means fewer snags.
So, we can summarize. , Texas equipment is best suited . For bold fishing of single snags and flooded tree trunks, you can use it, or at least a hinged rig with an offset hook. Depending on the situation, you can bypass the snags using a drop-shot or a lead leash. And all other installations with open hooks are normal solutions for more or less clean areas of the bottom.
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Categories: Edible fishing Tags: Snags, Installation, Unhooked, Lures
